Bongofish

Screen Tablet malarky => Heyaaaalpppp => Topic started by: brunobarbosa on January 24, 2015, 05:07:36 PM



Title: The Slatiq Project - or "please help an idiot with a soldering iron"
Post by: brunobarbosa on January 24, 2015, 05:07:36 PM
Hello everyone!

I've been browsing this forum with much interest and attention for the past few weeks as my girlfriend's Asus EP121 (Slate) recently died. We sent it to Asus tech for an estimate for the repair, and they said it would cost 500€+ to replace the motherboard.

Well, since then i've built her a new desktop PC, and am now considering converting the Slate into a sort of Cintiq.

I've already established that there is a vendor on e-bay that will provide a LVDS controller for the screen, so on that front i'm good to go.

Now, i just have to convert the digitizer to work from usb! Sounds quite easy, but not with my experience.

So, i'd like to ask if someone can point me in the correct way - Where should i start, what info should i get about the digitizer (when should i disassemble it to get all the specs, pinouts etc).

Also, as a way of giving back, and as this specific digitizer is a little sparse on information, i plan on posting detailed pictures of everything i can, and all the info i can provide as well, to contribute to the forum and wiki as best as possible.

Thanks to everyone in advance,

Bruno


Title: Re: The Slatiq Project - or "please help an idiot with a soldering iron"
Post by: Aerendraca on January 25, 2015, 12:33:44 PM
Hi brunobarbosa,
It looks like the Asus EP121 uses the Hydis HV121WX6-112 12.1" LCD panel and includes touch screen and Wacom digitizer. Some images of what you can expect the panel to look like can be found on this sellers page on alliexpress: http://www.aliexpress.com/item/HV121WX6-112-1280-800-With-Touch-Digitizer-For-Asus-Eee-Slate-EP121-Silver-Frame/32229772944.html

It's important to note that - as far as I'm aware - there have been no attempts on this forum to try to modify this screen for use as a Cintiq like device, and it's also worth pointing out that there is a change that it might not be possible to convert the digitizer for use on a PC/MAC without implementing some advanced electronics - beyond the scope of what this forum can help with.

Ok so with that out of the way - should you wish to continue - the first thing you'll need to do is strip the tablet back to the screen. I would say that there is a fairly good chance that the digitizer may well be compatible with USB of the bat, so close up photos of the Wacom circuit on the back of the screen would be incredibly useful.

A quick point: It's probably worth trying to get the Wacom digitizer working before spending money on an LCD controller, otherwise you may end up needlessly spending money. The Wacom digitizer, touchscreen digitizer and LCD are all independent circuits so there is no need to have the LCD working to test this.

I look forward to seeing how you get on with this. There are other posts on the forum where members have successfully converted Wacom digitizers that are attached to LCDs so perhaps it's worth tracking them down and taking a look at the sort of thing that's required before proceeding, and as always Good Luck!



Title: Re: The Slatiq Project - or "please help an idiot with a soldering iron"
Post by: brunobarbosa on January 26, 2015, 12:49:06 AM
Hello Aerendraca, thank you very much for the response!

I am aware that this project might not be feasible, but i sure am willing to try!

I have always been a tinkerer of sorts, and i face this not only as a way of getting a new "gadget" in the house, but also as a learning experience. I'll take whatever i can get out of this experience gratefully.

So, first of all, here is the project donor:

(http://i.imgur.com/1FizdoF.jpg)
(http://imgur.com/SasWxil)

Here is the pen that came with it:

(http://i.imgur.com/EeXrzp6.jpg)

As i said previously, it is an Asus EP121 Slate. It was purchased as a refurbished unit in April 2013, and worked well until the end of this November until it died.

Using the card to snap out the cover

(http://i.imgur.com/zCozdGy.jpg)

Here it is - take notice that the temp sensor cable was detached from the board, as it is glued on to the back cover.

(http://[img]http://i.imgur.com/eLR8Obe.jpg)[/img]

If someone comes across this and is curious on how to remove the parts, i marked the screws that need to come off:

First, to remove the battery, you need to remove the screws (red circles) and the battery connector (blue rectangle):

(http://i.imgur.com/PVP2m6f.jpg)

One of the screws is hidden under the battery connector and a couple other cables:

(http://i.imgur.com/uC0FJ8c.jpg)

Next, you need to remove the fans (green circles) and heatsink (blue circles). Be careful with the heatsink as it will be also have thermal paste between it and the chips.

(http://i.imgur.com/QLxKCVc.jpg)

After you have removed the fan/heatsink assembly, you can remove the motherboard.

Unscrew all the screws located on the red circles, and then remove the 2 ribbon cables to the left (yellow rectangles), the connectors for the digitizer and touch panel (red rectangles, right side) and finally the connector for the speakers (red rectangle, top left).

At this point you should see something very similar to the link Aerendraca posted above; basically, the display+touch+digitizer assembly.

Now we can see this:

On this unit, it has as you said Aerendraca, a Hydis HV121WX6-12 Display.

(http://i.imgur.com/99Dk8gM.jpg)

The digitizer, part nr. SU5E-12w34AU-01X

(http://i.imgur.com/G6J6v0m.jpg)

And the touch controller board, part nr. FTU2-12W11U-01X

(http://i.imgur.com/dOKZqnL.jpg).

Now, here is the digitizer controller panel in detail:

(http://i.imgur.com/AKxfA7P.jpg)

It is a 14 pin connector.

On this unit, it appears that the pins being used are 1,2,3 and 12,13 and 14 (as the picture of the cable below shows).

(http://i.imgur.com/3VbNj6S.jpg)

I will also leave a more detailed picture of the touch controller board, if anyone finds any use for it.

(http://i.imgur.com/XlvMroH.jpg?1)

Now, my primary objective with this unit would be to get the digitizer working. Touch is not important, but it would be good if i was able to get it to work as well.

Once again, thanks Aerendraca for your kind words! Hope these pictures can help get this project going, and also help someone else that might have the same idea!


Title: Re: The Slatiq Project - or "please help an idiot with a soldering iron"
Post by: Aerendraca on January 26, 2015, 03:14:04 PM
Nice pictures. It looks like the Wacom digitizer attached to your screen uses serial communication so it looks like you'll need to use a Teensy and Waxbee to get this digitizer working. Initially I thought that you had got lucky and that the circuit was one of the few which could use either Serial or USB, however on closer inspection I notice that the parts of the board which give hint to digital communication have not been populated (there are no components just solder). I can also see that pin 14 appears to be ground, and I think that pin 13 is +ve 3.3V required to drive the circuit. We need to figure out which pins are for transmission (Tx) and Reception (Rx).

It looks like you might be lucky with this as ThrowingChicken appeared to have some luck converting an SU-12W18A-01X that appears to use a very very similar digitizer circuit, see this post: http://forum.bongofish.co.uk/index.php?topic=2325.30

I've only glossed over it quickly but it looks as though every step has been well documented and should be easy to follow. I've never used Waxbee so I'll do my best with helping with this, however there is a wiki related to it - see google - that I believe has all the information you should need. Once again good luck!!


Title: Re: The Slatiq Project - or "please help an idiot with a soldering iron"
Post by: brunobarbosa on January 26, 2015, 06:14:40 PM
Thanks!

It was actually ThrowingChicken's thread that brought me here. So it looks like I was already heading for the right direction!

Do you know of any European suppliers of the Teensy? I live in Portugal and 'd like to avoid an absurd amount of import taxes If possible!


Title: Re: The Slatiq Project - or "please help an idiot with a soldering iron"
Post by: brunobarbosa on January 27, 2015, 07:57:51 AM
Ok, so after reading through ThrowingChicken's thread I decided to go ahead with this. I did some research and found an official supplier for the PJRC Teensy 2.0 in France and have already ordered it. The board should take about 10 days to arrive, so it's going to take a few days to move forward with this project!

Thanks for your help once more, Aerendraca!


Title: Re: The Slatiq Project - or "please help an idiot with a soldering iron"
Post by: Aerendraca on January 27, 2015, 08:35:02 AM
You're welcome. Best of luck with this, I look forward to seeing how you get on.


Title: Re: The Slatiq Project - or "please help an idiot with a soldering iron"
Post by: brunobarbosa on February 06, 2015, 09:11:32 PM
Heyy!
Just a quick update: the Teensy has arrived! Boy, is this thing tiny!

It's not going to be an easy task soldering this baby! I'm still waiting for the voltage regulator to arrive, though. Had to order it from a different company, this one from the UK, so they didn't arrive at the same time. I have already plugged in the teensy to the PC to check if it is functioning properly and it seems that all systems are go.

A quick question, if someone can help: what sort of wire would you recommend when it gets to connecting the teensy to the wacom controller board?


Title: Re: The Slatiq Project - or "please help an idiot with a soldering iron"
Post by: brunobarbosa on February 13, 2015, 11:45:01 PM
Good news! the teensy and voltage regulator are both here, and i've already made the conversion from 5v to 3.3 succesfully. Man, was that thing small, i had to hold my breath each time i soldered a pin!

Now, i think i need some help figuring out for sure wich pins are wich on the controller board connector - i'm not distrusting your judgment Aerendraca, it's just that i do not want to fry the board in the process!

Something interesting i found - i removed the shielding from the connector cable, and it appears that the wires from pin 1 and 14 were both grounds - neither of them has any coating, and were touching beneath the shielding - does this seem normal to you?


Title: Re: The Slatiq Project - or "please help an idiot with a soldering iron"
Post by: Aerendraca on February 14, 2015, 08:19:32 AM
Time to start playing!

The ground pins not having any coating sound Ok to me as the adhesive used in cable shielding is usually conductive -as is the shielding.

Do you have access to a multimeter? I feel like maybe you mentioned this?


Title: Re: The Slatiq Project - or "please help an idiot with a soldering iron"
Post by: brunobarbosa on February 14, 2015, 01:38:31 PM
Yes, i have a multimeter - it is one of these, if it helps:

(http://www.siliconray.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/d/s/dscn8127.jpg)


Title: Re: The Slatiq Project - or "please help an idiot with a soldering iron"
Post by: Aerendraca on February 16, 2015, 10:40:51 PM
Ok that'll do. I just had a thought, can you take a picture of where the other end of the Wacom digitizer cable attaches to the computer? this should give us some clues about which pins are which - If we're lucky it may even have some silkscreen info.


Title: Re: The Slatiq Project - or "please help an idiot with a soldering iron"
Post by: brunobarbosa on February 17, 2015, 03:53:31 AM
Sure thing, here they are, front and back (white connector to the right):

(http://i.imgur.com/llP91jH.jpg)

(http://i.imgur.com/OSQpJqo.jpg)

(http://i.imgur.com/OavsFuD.jpg)

Unfortunately i cannot see anything here that might be of any help...


Title: Re: The Slatiq Project - or "please help an idiot with a soldering iron"
Post by: Aerendraca on February 17, 2015, 12:51:47 PM
Ah yes, this is clearly a multi-layer PCB - I probably should have assumed that given that it is a computer motherboard. But with that said you can clearly see that pins 1 and 6 are both ground so we only need to figure out the remaining 4 pins!

I have a suggestion to try in order to confirm if pin 13 (on Wacom board) is the +ve wire as I expect. Do you know how to use your multimeter to check for continuity of a circuit, ie if the same wire is joined at two places? Usually you just set the meter to measure Ohms (any range), then when you touch the two probes together the meter reads a 1 to show that you have a short circuit.

Check the continuity of pin 13 of the connector with pin 6 of the 101EF35D chip. Pin 6 is the power pin (Vss) of the chip. Whoops I got my Vss and Vdd's mixed up. Hang on while I correct my mistake, currently the image is incorrect.  :-[ Corrected!

OK, so pin 13 on the connector should be linked to pin 9 of the 10EF35D chip - The Vdd (+ve power) pin. Also a quick look at the datasheet reveals that the chip has USB 2.0 functionality - we might be able to exploit this. Anyway for now just check the pins are continuous as below:

[attachment=1]

I've also included two blue lines to show the expected initial path of the trace via the underside of the PCB.

Once we have the power sorted the rest should be easier and much less risky to try things.


Title: Re: The Slatiq Project - or "please help an idiot with a soldering iron"
Post by: brunobarbosa on February 17, 2015, 05:48:49 PM
Ok so according to the manual for the multimeter, the continuity tester is the red range with the continuity simbol on the bottom. If there is continuity, it starts with the value of "1", and then when the curcuit is closed it will drop to "000" wich i have teste by touching the probes together and was true.

By this measure, it seems that pin 13 is in fact power, and it does go to pin 9 on the chip, and 14 is ground and it goes to pin 6 on the chip.

As per your recomendation, i also tested using the Ohm range and the values are the same.

So now i know where i should connect the vcc and gnd from the teensy to, do you have any recomendation as to how i should proceed now? i'm not really sure what kind of wire and or connection i should use, if i should solder directly to the pins, etc.


Title: Re: The Slatiq Project - or "please help an idiot with a soldering iron"
Post by: Aerendraca on February 17, 2015, 07:59:01 PM
Ok this is good, we're getting somewhere. I would get some solid core 0.6mm diameter (~22awg) wire, and I would probably cut and use the cable you have since you're in the envious position of having the cable with the connector attached. I'd solder directly to the wire and use some 1mm heatshrink to insulate the connection.



Title: Re: The Slatiq Project - or "please help an idiot with a soldering iron"
Post by: brunobarbosa on February 17, 2015, 10:16:37 PM
All done!

tested for continuity and it is up and running!

Now i have 3 remaining wires - pins 2, 3 and 11. It seems like for the teensy, only 2 wires are required - Rx and Tx. Would it be safe to test these now?


Title: Re: The Slatiq Project - or "please help an idiot with a soldering iron"
Post by: Aerendraca on February 18, 2015, 07:34:29 PM
Ok, I have an idea, lets see if the USB part of the chip is actually activated, you might not need the teensy at all!

Here's the pinout for the MN101EF35D chip.

[attachment=1]

Pins 39 and 40 of the chip are the USB data pins (D+ and D-), my suggestion is to see if you get any continuity between these pins and any of the pins of the connector. Chances are you wont but its worth a go.

If you do see continuity this could be good news although you may need to step the voltage of the USB socket down to 3.3V to get this working properly.

If you don't see any continuity with these pins try pins 12 and 13, and pins 35 and 36. These four pins are means for the chip to connect via serial com. If you see continuity with any of these then we know where to wire the Teensy (almost).


Title: Re: The Slatiq Project - or "please help an idiot with a soldering iron"
Post by: brunobarbosa on February 18, 2015, 10:40:50 PM
OK, so these were the findings I had with the multimeter. I'll make a diagram to make it easier to follow:

Chip ---------- Connector --------- Value
39     ---------------- 3 -----------------  020
39     ---------------- 2 ------------------ 480
40     ---------------- 3 ------------------ 480
40     ---------------- 2 ------------------ 020
12     ---------------- 2 ------------------ 700
13     ---------------- 3 ------------------ 700
35     ---------------- 2 ------------------ 700
36     ---------------- 2 ------------------ 700


I am a little confused with these values, as normally, whence checking for continuity this multimeter drops to 000 if there is continuity.
Also, any other combinations like 36 to 3 produced no value.

Does this seem normal?


Title: Re: The Slatiq Project - or "please help an idiot with a soldering iron"
Post by: Aerendraca on February 18, 2015, 11:44:02 PM
I'm a little tired so I need to think about this a bit, but it would seem that pin 39(chip) is connected to pin 3(connector) and pin 40 (chip) is connected to pin 2 (connector). I think this might work visa USB. The reason for obscure values is because the pins are not directly connected to the socket, they passed through other components which have various properties.


Title: Re: The Slatiq Project - or "please help an idiot with a soldering iron"
Post by: Aerendraca on February 19, 2015, 12:37:50 AM
Ok I've had a bit more of a think and I reviewed you're photos of the digitizer PCB. If you look at the photo of the digitizer PCB you can see two black components between the connector and the white printed letters "C2" (or capacitor 2), on these you can see the markings "200", which in surface mount (smd) speak is 20ohms - 020 continuity value ringing any bells? - no coincidence I'm sure.

One last thing to check then. If you check continuity from pin 39 to the right side of the lower (as per the image) resistor do you get all zeros? If you try the same with the upper resistor and pin 40 do you get all zeros?

If you answer yes to both of these I think we can safely say you're digitizer uses USB communication at 3.3v, and more than this we have a pinout.


Title: Re: The Slatiq Project - or "please help an idiot with a soldering iron"
Post by: brunobarbosa on February 19, 2015, 12:40:36 AM
Give me a second and I'll test this, I was just logging in again!

-- EDIT --

It is confirmed, we have continuity with those two resistors!

So this means that i can use a regular USB cable, provided can get it to output only 3.3v instead of 5v.

I have a couple of spare regulators that i purchased for the teensy (link below). Do you think these will be of any use for this?

https://www.pjrc.com/store/mcp1825.html




Title: Re: The Slatiq Project - or "please help an idiot with a soldering iron"
Post by: Aerendraca on February 19, 2015, 09:03:39 AM
In principle yes you should be able to use USB.

Also, yes you can use that voltage regulator however, you will need to get a couple of additional components from somewhere; don't worry they're super cheap and easy to find.

You will also need:
1x 4.7uF ceramic capacitor
1x 1uF ceramic capacitor

The circuit is really simple so don't let the additional components put you off. I'll try and draw up a simple circuit today for you to follow.


Title: Re: The Slatiq Project - or "please help an idiot with a soldering iron"
Post by: brunobarbosa on February 19, 2015, 11:52:46 AM
Thanks!

Will only ceramic capacitors work or will electrolytic or polyester ones work as well?


Title: Re: The Slatiq Project - or "please help an idiot with a soldering iron"
Post by: Aerendraca on February 19, 2015, 12:15:22 PM
This is what the datasheet has to say about it:

Quote
4.3 Output Capacitor
The MCP1825/MCP1825S requires a minimum output
capacitance of 1 μF for output voltage stability.
Ceramic capacitors are recommended because of their
size, cost and environmental robustness qualities.
Aluminum-electrolytic and tantalum capacitors can be
used on the LDO output as well
. The Equivalent Series
Resistance (ESR) of the electrolytic output capacitor
must be no greater than 1ohm. The output capacitor
should be located as close to the LDO output as is
practical.

And the input capacitor (4.7uF):

Quote
4.4 Input Capacitor
Low input source impedance is necessary for the LDO
output to operate properly. When operating from
batteries, or in applications with long lead length
(> 10 inches) between the input source and the LDO,
some input capacitance is recommended. A minimum
of 1.0 μF to 4.7 μF is recommended for most
applications. For applications that have output step load
requirements, the input capacitance of the LDO is very
important. The input capacitance provides the LDO
with a good local low-impedance source to pull the
transient currents from in order to respond quickly to
the output load step. For good step response
performance, the input capacitor should be of
equivalent (or higher) value than the output capacitor.
The capacitor should be placed as close to the input of
the LDO as is practical. Larger input capacitors will also
help reduce any high-frequency noise on the input and
output of the LDO and reduce the effects of any
inductance that exists between the input source
voltage and the input capacitance of the LDO.

So actually there is no specification that the input capacitor should be ceramic either, I would suggest then that electrolytic capacitors will be absolutely fine for this application.

By the way, LDO just stands for Low Dropout. To quote Wiki -
Quote
A low-dropout or LDO regulator is a DC linear voltage regulator which can regulate the output voltage even when the supply voltage is very close to the output voltage.


Title: Re: The Slatiq Project - or "please help an idiot with a soldering iron"
Post by: brunobarbosa on February 19, 2015, 02:50:19 PM
Thanks! I'm going to ser if i can get my hands on those after work today!


Title: Re: The Slatiq Project - or "please help an idiot with a soldering iron"
Post by: Aerendraca on February 19, 2015, 08:56:41 PM
Ok here's the very simple diagram from the step-down to 3.3V.

[attachment=1]


Title: Re: The Slatiq Project - or "please help an idiot with a soldering iron"
Post by: brunobarbosa on February 19, 2015, 09:18:17 PM
Thanks! At the risk of sounding stupid, the ground wire from the USB and the ground wire from the board conector should connect to the GND you indicated on the drawing, or elsewhere?


Title: Re: The Slatiq Project - or "please help an idiot with a soldering iron"
Post by: Aerendraca on February 19, 2015, 10:26:26 PM
Yep that's correct. Good luck! Fingers crossed.


Title: Re: The Slatiq Project - or "please help an idiot with a soldering iron"
Post by: brunobarbosa on February 20, 2015, 12:00:56 AM
I can't than you enough for your invaluable help, you have been a true lifesaver through this whole thing! Sadly I wasn't able to get the capacitors today, I'm going to try and get them tomorrow and see if I can have this puppy working by the weekend!


Title: Re: The Slatiq Project - or "please help an idiot with a soldering iron"
Post by: brunobarbosa on February 21, 2015, 10:10:40 PM
Ok so i have some news!

I made the connection just like you explained and tested the output and it was steady at 3.3v. Great!

Then i connected it to the connector and plugged it in into the pc - it made a sound, woohoo!

But then windows returned this:

(http://i.imgur.com/OFoJstw.jpg)

I tried installing the wacom penabled driver (http://us.wacom.com/en/feeldriver/) but it said it couldn't find a compatible tabled device.

Also, i tried inverting the connection on the data wires, but with no success (when plugging it in that way, the pc does not even recognize the device.

Any ideas?

Thanks again!


Title: Re: The Slatiq Project - or "please help an idiot with a soldering iron"
Post by: Aerendraca on February 22, 2015, 09:49:47 AM
Ok I think that this is actually good news believe it or not. Windows has recognized that you have a USB device connected but is unable to find the drivers; this could be because the digitizer is not setup for plug and play the same way as an of the shelf tablet is. So, I guess we're talking finding the driver used by the Asus for the Wacom device.

It looks like the feel driver is used for getting advanced features of the digitizer working, perhaps you have to have the basic driver working first which is why it reports no device detected.

I'll see what I can dig up on the internet.


Title: Re: The Slatiq Project - or "please help an idiot with a soldering iron"
Post by: Aerendraca on February 22, 2015, 10:54:05 AM
So I was just looking at the pictures of the digitizer you posted at the beginning of this thread and I noticed that you say that the pins which the digitizer connector uses are 1,2,3,12,13,14, but I think you may have this wrong. Looking closely at the picture I think it should actually be 2,3,4,12,13,14. From the image it appears that pin one is not actually connected - assuming that the image of the connector is upside-down when compared to the image of the digitizer above it.

When you checked the continuity of the pins did you do so from the connector or the wire plugged into the connector? Could it be that the USB pins on the connector are actually pins 3 and 4? Rather than 2 and 3.

Also can I confirm that you have pin 13 as 3.3v and 14 as ground? Perhaps we need to investigate pin 2?

Does that make sense, lots of numbers in this post.


Title: Re: The Slatiq Project - or "please help an idiot with a soldering iron"
Post by: brunobarbosa on February 22, 2015, 04:54:14 PM
Yes, you are correct - it is actually 2,3 and 4.

However, when i performed the continuity test i had the connector plugged in, so instead of counting the pins i tested it against the pins that had a wire in front of it (in this case, 3 and 4) which provided the results i mentioned before.

I re-checked for continuity just now and the values are right - there is continuity for the data pins on the chip to pins 3 and 4, and those are the ones that i have connected to the USB data wires.


Title: Re: The Slatiq Project - or "please help an idiot with a soldering iron"
Post by: Aerendraca on February 22, 2015, 05:00:14 PM
What about pin 2? Any idea where this pin goes?


Title: Re: The Slatiq Project - or "please help an idiot with a soldering iron"
Post by: brunobarbosa on February 22, 2015, 05:08:45 PM
That was another ground wire. I mentioned previously that it had 2 ground wires with no shielding inside the cable, those were pins 14 and 2 (not pin 1, as i stated before; pin 1 was empty).


Title: Re: The Slatiq Project - or "please help an idiot with a soldering iron"
Post by: Aerendraca on February 22, 2015, 05:18:09 PM
Ok so it's definitely USB only then. Have you tried uninstalling the device from within device manager, then scanning for changes?


Title: Re: The Slatiq Project - or "please help an idiot with a soldering iron"
Post by: brunobarbosa on February 22, 2015, 05:25:46 PM
yes, i have. it still cannot find the device descriptor.


Title: Re: The Slatiq Project - or "please help an idiot with a soldering iron"
Post by: Aerendraca on February 22, 2015, 08:05:35 PM
Ok I'm not at a computer at the moment so I can't look at this software properly, but try installing  USBview - https://msdn.microsoft.com/en-us/library/windows/hardware/ff560019%28v=vs.85%29.aspx.

This should tell you what descriptors the device has. I'm not sure how useful this will be but at least it should tell us something about the digitizer.

By the way I found this through adafruits guide on hacking the kinect, here: https://learn.adafruit.com/hacking-the-kinect/determine-the-descriptors


Title: Re: The Slatiq Project - or "please help an idiot with a soldering iron"
Post by: XDjackieXD on February 22, 2015, 09:15:17 PM
Another possibility to at least test if the digitizer works would be to boot of an ubuntu or other live linux usb drive.
The included drivers work with all usb and serial wacom tablets (i testet a serial and a usb penabled digitizer and both worked. The serial one had to be attached using the inputattach command).

This would help to identify if it's a driver or hardware issue.

-Jakob


Title: Re: The Slatiq Project - or "please help an idiot with a soldering iron"
Post by: brunobarbosa on February 22, 2015, 10:43:39 PM
ok so i've tested the usbdebug and this is what i got:

(http://i.imgur.com/X0UBben.jpg)

Not really sure what to make of this.

I am also currently downloading ubuntu so i can test XDjackieXD's suggestion as well. Will report as soon as a I have more news.


Title: Re: The Slatiq Project - or "please help an idiot with a soldering iron"
Post by: Aerendraca on February 22, 2015, 10:57:13 PM
Hmm, doesn't look like it's communicating correctly. Try it in Linux and see and I'll have a bit of a think on this.

Is there any way to power up the motherboard of the Asus and measure the voltage at the motherboard connector? I'm wondering if maybe this should be powered with 5V instead of 3.3V. I wouldn't try this though until we've exhausted all options, or you measure 5V on the power pin.


Title: Re: The Slatiq Project - or "please help an idiot with a soldering iron"
Post by: Aerendraca on February 23, 2015, 09:31:55 AM
Did you tie pins 2 and 14 together or just use one of them for ground? I think they should be tied. Also, it bugs me that pin 12 is not connected. What is the purpose of pin 12? Hmmm.


Title: Re: The Slatiq Project - or "please help an idiot with a soldering iron"
Post by: XDjackieXD on February 23, 2015, 11:27:54 AM
In both my serial and USB digitizers I did not connect pin 12 to anything and they worked.


Title: Re: The Slatiq Project - or "please help an idiot with a soldering iron"
Post by: brunobarbosa on February 23, 2015, 01:16:15 PM
OK, so I couldn't get Ubuntu to recognize it, but I haven't used Linux before so I may have done something wrong.

I was able to power up the motherboard and check the connector there - it putting up 3.3 volts, so that part should be OK as well.

Pin 12 isn't connected to anything and I'm only using pin 14 for ground. Could that have an effect on the digitizer not being recognized?


Title: Re: The Slatiq Project - or "please help an idiot with a soldering iron"
Post by: Aerendraca on February 23, 2015, 01:29:15 PM
Because we are talking about data lines I suppose it could have an affect. Join the pins 2 and 14 and see if it makes a difference.

At least we can be sure now that your are powering it with the correct voltage. Did the digitizer work before you took it all apart?


Title: Re: The Slatiq Project - or "please help an idiot with a soldering iron"
Post by: brunobarbosa on February 23, 2015, 02:36:20 PM
It's hard to be 100% sure; it was working when the computer malfunctioned, and the technicians said the issue was with the mb, so I assume that it is working properly, although it is difficult to know for sure. Will test with both ground wires later in the evening and report back then.


Title: Re: The Slatiq Project - or "please help an idiot with a soldering iron"
Post by: XDjackieXD on February 23, 2015, 09:08:54 PM
In Ubuntu you could open a terminal and type 'dmesg' right after plugging in the digitizer. then you can get some more debugging information.

-Jakob


Title: Re: The Slatiq Project - or "please help an idiot with a soldering iron"
Post by: brunobarbosa on February 24, 2015, 02:14:57 AM
thanks for the tip jakob.

this is what i got:

[attachment=1]

can you see anything helpful in here? All i could think of was to try and find the vendor id for Wacom, but it does not show up on that report.

Aerendraca, connecting pins 2 and 14 produced the same effect.


Title: Re: The Slatiq Project - or "please help an idiot with a soldering iron"
Post by: XDjackieXD on February 24, 2015, 08:02:01 AM
It looks like either not d+ and d- swapped or a to long or defective USB cable.
I had the same effect when using a 1m USB extension cable with one of my digitizers.
A USB hub in between or directly plugging it into your PC could help.

-Jakob


Title: Re: The Slatiq Project - or "please help an idiot with a soldering iron"
Post by: Aerendraca on March 06, 2015, 05:30:38 PM
I was looking at the wiki pages and saw that there is some information that pin 12 may need to be connected to ground in some cases to enable the digitizer. See the pinout table: http://wiki.bongofish.co.uk/doku.php?id=bongofish:penenabled

It would appear to suggest that PLTRS1 is active low enable, ie pin 12 should be 0V to enable the digitizer. Worth a go, it shouldn't do any damage.



Title: Re: The Slatiq Project - or "please help an idiot with a soldering iron"
Post by: brunobarbosa on March 29, 2015, 07:28:48 PM
Hey guys, just to keep you up to date: the projecto hasn't been forgotten, I've just been having a very busy few weeks! Hopefully I'll be able to give it a try in the next couple of days and see how it responds. Thanks all for your help!


Title: Re: The Slatiq Project - or "please help an idiot with a soldering iron"
Post by: mike-s on February 09, 2017, 07:32:55 AM
I know it's a bit of a grave dig here, but I'm wondering if brunobarbosa had any further luck with this as I've got one of these panels and am thinking about ways i can use it myself.


Title: Re: The Slatiq Project - or "please help an idiot with a soldering iron"
Post by: brunobarbosa on March 27, 2019, 12:46:22 AM
Hi guys!

After having been gone for about 4 years (almost exactly to the day, wow) for the proverbial pack of cigarettes, i was doing some cleanup around the house and found all these parts again and thought i should give it a shot, before i threw them away.

You won't believe what happened - it worked!

I didn't have the usb cable i had used originally and i think that could in part be the problem - i had to use a new one.

I re-read the thread, followed Aerendraca's tips (i still had the 3.3v stepdown curcuit that Aerendraca showed me how to make), and then plugged it in and it just worked!

I'm running a newer laptop now with windows 10, and as soon as i plugged in the digitizer, the windows ink workspace icon showed up on the tray and it just worked!!

Thanks everyone and especially Aerendraca for the help for all these years, and now the project is revived!

I just have to figure out now if i can get the touch controller to work and see if i can find a converter for the screen!


Title: Re: The Slatiq Project - or "please help an idiot with a soldering iron"
Post by: DaBotz on April 03, 2019, 06:32:59 PM
Yeeeeahhh!!!

Nice to hear such a joyous news.

In effect, changing USB cables/ports should be put among the troubleshooting first tips for all builds.

I used to think that they were pretty sturdy/foolproof  (either work or not), but over time I had to concede that they can be as temperamental as any other cable/connection, digital or analogue this  may be, and you confirmed it once more.  

Thanks for updating the thread.


Title: Re: The Slatiq Project - or "please help an idiot with a soldering iron"
Post by: brunobarbosa on April 05, 2019, 12:14:49 AM
thanks!

One other recent update, that i found might be useful if someone ends up here - it does not work on all usb ports on my laptop! It seems to only work on the USB 2.0 ports.

I have put on order a driver board for the screen, should be here in a couple of weeks. will update with more details when i get it!