I have done everything that's mentioned on the FAQ page. I even shielded the LCD circuit board with insulated aluminum sheets against the wacom tablet.

Monitor was using the higher refresh rate from the beginning. Changing the refresh rate didn't affect jitter amount.

It's not really big of a deal, since it's only affecting the top area where the menus are. Just that sometimes it causes random clicks.

I also tried to disable the right click on the pen from the Wacom driver, but it doesn't let me.

I just finished organizing everything inside. I shielded with multiple aluminum sheets and insulated them but the top jitter is still there. I think it has to do with the monitor board. Is there a way to fix this?

Also, I can't disable the lower button on the pen. I set it as disabled in the driver but the button still works as right mouse click.

I also tried using Lazynezumi tool, and while it reduces jitter dramatically, the mouse pointer lags so much behind the pen. I was running in compatibility mode.

I was using Painttool SAI. you may have not heard of it, as it's some japanese art program. I use it because it's only 60mb and doesn't eat up my ram.

It works amazingly well now. The pointer is right at the tip of the pen. I still have to work on top area jitter though. Haven't dared to open it up again.

Just some things I noticed in the design:

I think it would be better for the backlight cable to have it go from the bottom side wall of the enclosure, rather than from the backside. The cable is squished with the weight of the tablet.

The LCD controller doesn't have all three holes matched up with the enclosure. Only the top two holes are able to be secured.

Other than that, I think everything is perfect.

Hello Don

Why is there always going to be drift of cursor to the edges? Is there a way around it? If I reduce the size of active area on the tablet, why doesn't it fix the problem?

Also, sometimes the mapping gets all weird and the cursor jumps between two screens. Turning on the wacom driver fixes it momentarily, but as soon as i click something, cursors moves in the right center of the two screens.

mapping reverts to the full screen settings when i turn off wacom driver

These are my settings: (This setting works great both Duplicate or Extend.)1

Screen proportion
Top: 1              Bottom:880
Left:1601          Right:3020

Tablet Area: Full
These make the pointer fit exactly the same to the tip of the pen, leaving small margins out of the screen.

UPDATE: I'm stupid. I had the program's own screen settings set up in wacom driver. I removed it and it works amazingly well!!!!!

Thanks bernard for that amazing GUI!

I've just received all the components except the LCD monitor. Once I receive that, I will write up an assembly review sort of thing.

Hello Don.

Don't worry about the zip ties!! It wasn't your fault at all!! They are like a dollar!!! haha. Thanks though. And yes, I'm using the felt tip. I don't want to scratch it!

I have received so many bolts and nuts. I have so many spares. I love how you sent extras. Thanks for that!

I have some questions though. I'm not sure how to configure the tablet and the monitor. I updated the review on my first post. Please have a look at it.

Thanks bernard for that amazing GUI!

I've just received all the components except the LCD monitor. Once I receive that, I will write up an assembly review sort of thing.

Just received email from Tabletmod.com. They said the difference is 3.5mm left and right, 2.5mm top and bottom. I think this is negligible.

Wow that Entech Powerstrip seems very useful. The graphics drivers are useless to me because I'm on a laptop. They won't let me customize screen size.

The size totally doesn't matter for me. I was just wondering since if the inactive area is at top, I can move window pane around. If it's at bottom though, I have to move the taskbar to top or side or something.

It's not really THAT big of an issue, but if the inactive area is at top, it'd be perfect.

I know that the LCD screen size is a little bigger than the Intuos4 Large (7mm on the side, 5mm top to bottom)

This problem can be solved by setting the active area on the screen, but just wondering, is the 5mm difference of inactive area arranged at the top or bottom?

If it's at top, it's not a big deal as windows has the bars at the top, which won't be used as much as the bottom, which is the taskbar.

Size difference on the side doesn't matter for me, because I can just reduce the window size of the program.

Hello Mr.Don

How long does it take to prepare a kit to be shipped? I know it says 2 weeks but I was wondering if you could prepare it faster

I only broke the LCD because I didn't know I was supposed to be careful with the board attached to the LCD. I've been folding/unfolding it many many times and it just died. LOl

I know there may be slight jitter and I might break stuff, but is there any other risk that I don't know of?

I still have them. Although my dad accidentally threw away the box that I kept extra FFC in...

The Wacom UD-1212R is working 100% fine and I even converted it to USB with Teensy board following the guide that was posted here. I put the parts back into the case. The pen though, is very hard to return to its original configuration because I made a mistake of not taking a picture of the screws' location. I've been trying to tweak it just right, but I've given up after 2 hrs of testing.

The LCD is completely broken. It doesn't even display anything anymore. But I have the cables and LCD controller. If anyone wants, I'll ship everything for free. Just pay me the shipping fee.

This isn't really a build log but more like a review.

I've just purchased Intuos4 Large and the full kit from TabletMod.com.

This is the enclosure kit for TabletMod Large V3. There were three pieces of lasercut acrylic boards. They came wrapped in a piece of cardboard. A corner of one piece was crushed into pieces and I was fortunate to have all the necessary parts unharmed. They had some paper-sticker sort of thing glued to the acrylic boards. I assume it's needed when you are cutting with laser.







This is my Intuos4 Large. It's sooo beautiful. I'm glad I don't have to rip this apart.




These are all the parts after cleaning out the paper-sticker things. They come off easily, but getting the first peel was tricky.






Build review update 1:

I finished assembling the enclosure but I've run into some minor problems.

First, two of the four zip-ties that were sent to me were loose. They were not grabbing the teeth at all. I'm going to get some zip-ties tomorrow.

Second, the bolts that are supposed to be used for LCD display control buttons are too short. I'm going to get some longer bolts tomorrow.

I've included some pictures.





I got longer bolts for the button enclosure and now it looks pretty good.


Finished enclosures:




Included the LCD controller. There were only two top slots fitting for the controller. I also trimmed off some from the plastic casing of the inverter. I didn't want to burn my finger again haha.




Everything finally finished!!!! But with some problems.

The LCD board at top feels like it doesn't want to be bent this way, as it's quite pushing away from the enclosure. I am not sure what the long term side effect would be. I actually broke an LCD because I was bending the FFC of the LCD board too many times.

Tablet randomly changes display area. I need to spend more time with this. There's some jitter near the top and left side. I can try to shield better. Now, I need to find out how to configure display area and the tablet area correctly, so the pointer doesn't move away from the pen near the edges.

The enclosure is perfectly cut, and pieces fit together perfectly. But the monitor and the Wacom tablet don't align together perfectly, and I need to spend some time with this. The tablet sits slightly higher because of the inverter cable coming from bottom. (It's pink and white) It would've been better if the whole was on the bottom edge, instead of the backside. I think I will make a hole there myself.




The kits from Tabletmod.com are amazing. I don't have the expertise or patience to make my own DIY-Cintiq, but these guys made it possible for me. I was going to give up because I destroyed my first build but ordering from Tabletmod.com was a good decision. At first, I did think the price was a bit high, but as soon as I started working on the enclosure, I was impressed with how much thought they have put into designing the case. They were very responsive with emails and very helpful. I hope I don't break this beautiful thing! haha.

Yea the boards are separated by a big piece of cardboard.

Id like to purchase a new lcd that doesnt require extending FFC. I have no choice but to give up on the current one bc the FFC and extender i bought has different thickness from monitor's ffc. I had to sand one down and add some foil on the other to make them fit. The ffc connector on the monitor board is semi broken.

Seems like the LP150 lcd doesnt need an extension, right?

Ive been going through other people's posts and they got their controller from njsomething but they kept making a mistake of sending a controller programmed for different resolution. Where's another good place to get the controller and the lcd?

I think I will purchase 15" S-IPS 1400x1050 LP150E05-A2K1 panel for display. This dell monitor has given me too much problems. The FFC connector is partially broken and it becomes lose whenever I move something.

Where can I get and display controller to go with the display?

Which model is this?