Thanks for the kind words!
The look does kind of work for the watch, but it's not something I would personally wear.
I really had imagined it to look much more modern. Maybe the marks and numbers need to be printed a little thicker, and the classic hour hand doesn't help either.
Initially I had the dial engraved, but the material was too thick to put the hands back on so I printed it on paper for now.

The minute hand is actually the seconds hand and it does show seconds. I omitted the minute hand, and marked the time in 5 minute parts so with a longer hour hand you can read the time pretty precise. With the short hour hand I'm using it is hard to read though, so I'll try to find a longer one or glue something on to it to make it longer (and less old fashioned). The seconds hand is not really needed, but I like to see something moving.

I didn't wear it yet. Though the strap can bend far enough to fit my wrist, it is still a bit too stiff to close it with one hand. And the closing mechanism broke so I'm working on a better design.
Apart from that, the watch isn't fragile at all. Of course not as strong as metal and I wouldn't wear it while playing sports, but for normal wear I expect it to be fine.

Update:
Ok! I've changed the dial and made a new hour hand. Looking much better IMO.
[attachment=1]
Only things left are to finish the strap and the crown.

It's been a while, but I finally got around to making this thing.
Pretty much everything went well the first time around. Much different from building cintiqs.
I still have to change the crown into a wooden one, and I'm not too happy with the look of the dial. Makes the watch look vintage, instead of modern.
The hour hand could use some extra length too. Difficult to read the time now.
[attachment=1]

I meant Ihad to find the image I made of the watch with the dial.

And I found it!
[attachment=1]


The hour marks are subdivided in quarterhours, which in turn are subdivided again in 5minute increments. In total 144 marks around the dial, or a mark at every 0.9mm. which is quite dense indeed

I realize these posts are a bit vague and fragmented. I will rewrite the first post when this project is finished.


edit:
Maybe I'll spray paint the dial white and the hourhand black
[attachment=2]

fourth iteration already.

I ditched the lugs. Those need to be pretty sturdy since the strap attaches to them, but look nicer when they''re smaller. Not really possible with multiplex.
So the strap now runs straight through the watch, securing the lid at the back as well. It looks more clean too, and is easier to assemble.

Less is still more.


I have a graphic for the dial too. It'll be a one-hand watch. Only the hour hand, and a mark for every fifth minute.
Have to find that somewhere.

Next time I'll divide circles in more edges. It now looks like a jagged shaped instead of the smooth circle it's supposed to be.

While I am finishing up on my last couple of things before i have allowed myself to continue work on the tiqtac, I designed a watch.
Nothing too fancy. Pretty basic design. Only special thing is I'm building it myself from wood, and I'll have it lasercut, so it's a layered design.

The pic shows the initial sketch design. It has changed quite a bit since that image, but the idea remains the same. More pics when I get to my own computer.

Congratulations on the 12x19!
Don´t be scared, wacoms are pretty damn durable. It´s unlikely you´ll break it unless you´re really uncarefull.

The case is held together with 4 screws at the corners, and double sided sticky tape all around.

Find a spot that seems safe, and get something between both halves to separate the tape.
Be careful around the corner that has the usb cable, and also when taking the two halves apart. Some of the stuff is attached to the top half, and some to the lower half, connected with a cable. You need to unplug the cable so you can take it apart, which is easy.

Very strange indeed!

Can you still get the onscreen display wen it´s hooked up to a computer?
If so, you may try to let the monitor do the Auto-thing to recalibrate the image (works only for VGA).

Hey Spikey! Welcome to the forum.

Kind of brave to start a build with a non-wacom tablet. Several people before you have tried and failed. Wacoms seem to be better for some reason.
Looking at your tablet, I suspect it's a rebranded UC Logic (PF1209_TABA1) tablet. Which would be great, since there has been a succesfull build with that tablet before.

Found the link: http://forum.bongofish.co.uk/index.php?topic=1169.0
The tablet seemed to have some issues with drawing straight lines though? But that was already happening before it was turned into a cintiq.

From the video it seems you have some dead spots around the top of where you were drawing. Is there anything between the panel and the tablet, in terms of wires or metal or other stuff?

Shielding is meant to eliminate a source of interference. Usually the circuit boards and power supply create electro magnetic fields that interfere with the signal of the tablet. Shiedling them can block or deform the field, reducing the interference.
Putting aluminium between the panel and the tablet shields the tablet from the pen, which is why you can't draw.
Anything metal in between the panel and the tablet can cause jitter or dead spots.

You'd want to put aluminium foil around the other stuff (make sure you wrap it in cling foil or paper first or stuff might short), and ground the aluminium. (there's a great explanantion on grounding somewhere in the forum, can't remember where though, might be in an old build log).


So, about going forward with your build, I would definitely keep trying for a while, since the tablet has worked on other builds before. Try drawing on it with the screen turned off. If there're still dead spots, something is blocking your pen. If there's no jitter when the screen is turned off, something is causing interference when it's turned on, and shielding may help.

Also as a general tip from experience, try not to move the panel around too much. Those things are quite sturdy, but tend to break without reason.


Good luck with your build!

So there is no jitter when you have just turned it on, only after using it for a while?
Then the only thing I can think of is indeed the CCFL lights, that heat up.
Maybe the board doesn't respond well to the heat?
You could try to put some insulation between the lamps and the board, a layer of cardboard or several layers of paper might do the trick, or at least extend the time it takes for the board to become hot.

This thing will live!

After a couple of years gathering dust, I decided to put in some more work and get this project on the rails again.
Prices of screens have dropped a bit, and yesterday I bought a used LED monitor. At a first glance, it seems to have the odds in favour.

External powersupply (yay), VGA and DVI connection (I read in an other log that the digital connection may reduce jitter).
Also, this thing is slick and extremely thin, and being an Acer, I expect it to come apart relatively easily.



Specs:

Acer S221HQLbd

Screen Size 21.5"

Maximum Response Time 5 ms

Aspect Ratio 16:9

Horizontal Viewing Angle 170°

Vertical Viewing Angle 160°

Backlight Technology White LED

Maximum Resolution 1920 x 1080

Maximum Refresh Rate 60 Hz

Color Support 16.7 M

Contrast Ratio 100,000,000:1 (ACM)

Brightness 250 cd/m2

Interfaces/Ports DVI VGA


Now I'll just wait until I have some proper time to get working on it.

No it's definitely an option in the wacom drivers.
It's one of the pen options, not the wacom board options.

Try shift clicking on Options or About. Or maybe Alt+click


Edit: I think it's the option for 'pen mode' and 'annotation mode'

I've seen it before, and did know how to lower it, but I haven't installed the drivers on my laptop now. I'll have a look later. What I do remember is that you don't actually change the number, but it has a certain name. (there are two options for the report rate).

Fuzzy description I know

DIY-beamer is very friendly. if you send them an email about it, they might just send you some 300mm for free, without having to return the 150mm ones.

You are one unlucky bastard!
I think this is maybe only the second wacom that died on this forum.

I would venture a guess that the smaller intuos2 uses the same usb board, but I would check that with other people first. Can you post some images of both, to compare them?

If you can get the serial one to work, your build isn't lost yet. Keep fighting!

Nice!
Great workaround for jittery builds. THanks for posting it!