It doesn't have to be external necessarily, but the power supply can be a source for interference, causing jitter.
There are several builds with internal power supplies that work beautifully.

Welcome!

You're unlikely to be able to use the lvds controller from tabletmod, as they are programmed for screens with specific specs. Your screen is different, so it probably won't work.
The same applies for the ebay screen, you'll need an lvds controller kit for it.

If you're considering buying stuff from tabletmod anyway, you could choose to buy the 15.4" lcd panel, coupled with the lcd-controller kit that they have. Those should be compatible.

You are KING!
Someone should link this in the useful links forum, or create a special topic for it.

That's definitely caused by the VGA cable. NVidia drivers also supply an option for custom resolutions, but the option stays greyed out for VGA-connected monitor.

Glad to be back!

I'm planning to make this a mini-version of my larger design, and keep it fairly simple.

Of course, the thing has touch buttons which are required to put it in USB-monitor mode, so that is a new design challenge, and I'd like to keep the photoframe functionality as well.
It even has speakers!

I've come to the point where I've taped all the parts together, which was a lot easier than with the big version. I need to extend 2 ccfl cables a few centimeters, and then it's ready for testing.

I'll post pictures when it's a working thing.

I think/hope the fact that it runs on the low power of a USB means it generates less interference, since it's so low powered.
The LED-lighting is a plus for less heating.

While I agree it will use relatively much of the cpu, most new pc's have at least a dual core, and probably a quadcore or i5 processor, so when you're using one graphics program at a time, there shouldn't be much difference in performance, as an other core handles the monitor.

USB monitors are a little slow anyway, so that could be a problem. We'll have to wait for some reviews.

You can also try to sell this monitor and controller on ebay, and use that money to buy a new screen (the dell one that works).

Just curious, where did buy said cable?

You can order them at ww.diy-beamer.com
they're not the fastest, but they are very helpful and friendly.
Last time I ordered a cable, I got two extra for free.

That's superb, if it works. Let's hope it also supports mapping and such.
At 75 dollars it is quite expensive. Especially since it's on a per-CPU basis, and non transferable.
I for one would definitely like to be able to use my diy-tiq on multiple computers.

Anyone with windows7 and a serial-wacom to try the demo?

the exact dimensions depend on the aspect ratio (widescreen or not, etc), but you're right, 15.6" will never fit on a 9x12

My graphire3 XL has about 11mm above the sensor.

To me, resolution does matter a lot, but after a certain threshold, it doesn't make much difference. Anything above 1680x1050 works for me as a primary screen.
The difference is not so much in the detail, but the size of the working area. At lower resolutions, all the menus and toolbars just take up too much space to feel comfortable.
If you're willing to spend the extra 50 bucks, I would certainly go for it.
DIY-beamer.com also sells controllers (and monitors by the way). They aren't exactly cheap, but they're very friendly and helpful.

Samsung is going to release an 18.5" monitor somewhere next year, with a 1,366x768 resolution.
Nothing fancy about that, except, it's a USB monitor, meaning it only needs a USB port. No vga, dvi, not even a power supply, just the single usb port.
It only uses 6.3W (compared to 20-50 for regular monitors).

I'm only speculating here, but it could have a seriously good impact on those damn jitterbugs, as I'd imagine the interfering fields generated by it will also be significantly weaker.
Also, it's an edge-lit LED screen.

http://www.tomshardware.com/news/USB-Monitor-Notebooks-Netbooks,10547.html
http://thecoolgadgets.com/samsung-usb-monitor-18-5-inch-lcd-display-6-3w-power-consumption/


Of course, it will probably be expensive, and usb monitors tend to not be compatible with 3D hardware, rendering it useless for people that do 3D modeling.

Any other thoughts?

Well, I couldn't really think of a nice name, but this will do. All suggestions for a better name are very much appreciated.

So, while my other build is waiting for a new screen to be bought, stumbled upon a Samsung digital photoframe that doubles as a mini-monitor through usb (though it requires an external power supply too).
Inspired by Wence's succes, I decided to take the leap and go for it.

It's a whopping 8", 800x600, and has touch buttons, speakers, an SD-card slot, wireless options(!):  it's the Rolls Royce of 8" digital photoframes.
Codename, Samsung SPF-85V.
They aren't very expensive either. About 90 euros new, and of course I got a used one for much less.


I already tore it apart (really really easy!) and the screen is about 0.5cm thick. I've got one big fat ffc cable that splits into two 30 pins, 0.5mm pitch cables, so I have to spend about 35 euros to get two extension sets from diybeamer (ouch).

I'm going to put it on top of my graphire3, which is also very very easy to disassemble, and has about 11 or 12 mm of reading height above the bare sensor.


Now that I have experienced breaking two big expensive monitors, I'm going to take it slow on this one. The ffc cable is kind of taped to the board on one end, and it seems fragile. I've put both devices back together, and am going to wait for the extension kit to arrive before I do anything else.



Of course I wouldn't be me if I hadn't designed the casing on the way. I'll cut out a 3mm thick piece of mdf, slightly larger than the wacom sensor, as a back plate, but it will have a sort of box in it to put in the speakers and other stuff from the photoframe. I'll use a 1mm piece of acryllic to protect the lcd, and some sticky plastic foil to protect the acryllic

So, building order:
1. stuff in the box, hook up the extension kit, and extend some regular wires
2. wacom sensor on the backplate, making sure nothing gets jammed and the extended ffc cables are reachable
3. put the display on the sensor, with some paper in between, just in case, and also put the touch buttons in place
4. connect ffc cables
5. put some 4mm spacers on the sensor, everywhere except where the lcd board and ffc cables are, to secure the lcd in place, and to prepare for step 6
6. put the acryllic on top of the lcd and everything else with double sided tape
7. draw some stuff to show you guys!
8. get bored and use it as a digital photoframe

9. think of how I'm going to connect the front with the backplate, somewhere before step 6

seems easy.
also, while the photoframe doesn't have any holes for ventilation, I'll make sure that there is some room for airflow around the screen
hopefully, the touchbuttons work through acryllic, or I'll have to put them on the back

Wow. I am excited.

I can take the monitor apart in about 2 minutes. Same for the wacom, so I guess I'll make a detailed report on it when I'm working on it.

This thread has some good info on how to make it work, it also has a link to a blog about it.
http://forum.bongofish.co.uk/index.php?topic=1682.0
Only problem is that the control panel doesn't work, so you can't map the tablet to match your screen.