Both good questions!

Flint, Michigan USA and Philips LP171W01

I do intend to throw up some pics still also, just never seem to have much time lol.

Well I never did pick this up from a year and a half ago. I moved on to other projects (mostly college and a fulltime job).

I have a Surface Pro coming that has wacom tech inside that I can draw on so I really do not need all this stuff.

I have a GD-1218-R Board w/pen, A Philips LP171W01 screen w/controller board.

I will post pics tomorrow after I hook the screen and all back up so you can see it work.

Not sure what I am looking for yet, I also have a teensy for it if you feel ambitious and want to update it to USB

Ahh that is right you had the UD-12-12.. was thinking we were using the same, but the pictures didn't match lol.

TY

Drew you have a Pic or two of your solder job?

No it is in it's natural position. Didn't even realized it would unfold lol, I will have to check into that

Yes it connects to the LCD and as such must pass between the LCD and the sensor board.

The 30pin LVDS cable

Ok so now I am having a problem with shielding the main cable on the LCD. When I start to draw on the tablet and go over where the cable runs I get a big dead area.

ie if I keep drawing a line over that area it keeps breaking about 3/4inch or so. Any suggestions?

Well got a GD-1218-R on the way for only $60.

No Pen but my GD-1212-R pen will work so that is no biggie and I think the 1218 will be a better fit to my 17inch widescreen (ie I will be able to use the entire screen now)

Well looks like the project is on hold atm.

With Bernard's excellent help I managed to mod my Gd-1212-R from Serial to USB... however during one of my tests I managed to fry something lol... Both part of the teensy and the controller board of the GD-1212-R

I had hoped to replace just the controlle rboard and go from there, but those seem just as hard to come by as an original GD-1212-R. It also seems that the smaller boards have the digitizer and controller board built together, I had thought maybe I could take out a board from a GD-0912-U and connect it to my larger digitizer but no such luck.

So until I track down another Wacom, this is currently on hold.

So cut all the way through and then put some rails inside to support the panel,  and something underneath to support the sensor?

I think trashie's way will work best.. then I can just cut all the way through for the panel and route 1/2" of that to set the sensor in.

Mmm..I dont know if i understand well what you want to do...But, cant you use some sort of plastic piece with a "L" profile, and use screws to fix it to the wood? I mean, for example, to hide cables in offices and so, sometimes some sort of square plastic box runs along the wall.If you cut that in two (not by the center of the box, but along 2 opposite vertices), you end up with 2 plastic pieces with a "L profile, thin enough so it'll still look like the screen is "carved" in the wood..Dont know if i explained it well, or it's not what you want, anyway :-D

Actually that would indeed work.... now to the hardware store to see if I can find something of the right thickness.... If I can than that would guarantee I am level across instead of trying to sand it perfectly!

If not I think I have an alternative in my head with your suggestion also!!!

Thanks

The wood is about 1/2 inch thick hardwood. I would be putting two circles in it for fans.

I just think this way would be better to support the LCD since the Wacom would still need backing. Therefor I would only have to support the lighter item with behind the table support.

So something like this the groove being where the LCD would lay and the middle lines representing the complete cut-through where the wacom would sit

Ok this isn't eletrical technical but maybe someone can offer some hints

I have a drafting table I want to set this into. My problem is how do I go about doing this? The setup I have in my head is as follows.

I will cut a square for the wacom board 1/2 inch smaller on all sides.. then route the remaining space, thus allowing me to set the board without have to have some soft of backing.. I will have this about 10mm deep. Problem being that I have to make this depth go across for the screen as well... not sure if Dremel has a tool I can accomplish this with... putting a large 10mm "groove" so to speak into the wood the size of the screen monitor without going all the way through the wood.

Choco have you tried LCD's in the 9.6" Range??

Something like http://cgi.ebay.com/Toshiba-9-6in-STN-Color-LCD-Screen-Assy-TLX-8062S-C3X-/370517938355?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item56449710b3

Nevermind I got it... it still is a bit off but could be that I haven't taking the wacom board out of it's casing yet. I think I will get a better reading then (though it does work as is currently).

So the mapping is good now I don't know what I was smoking, apparently I just didn't know how to map it properly lol