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1  Screen Tablet malarky / Heyaaaalpppp / Re: Use wacom pen on wacom digitizer hardware on: November 05, 2017, 02:37:46 PM
You have to check in the Device Manager what kind of VID and PID the digitizer is using. Here's an example image



If the Vendor ID (VID) does not match Wacom's, you're out of luck. You may try editing the .inf file for the driver to include new VID and PID signatures but it's not guaranteed to work. People have tried do do this for the Sympodium tablets (rebranded Wacom DTF-series screens) without success.

About pen compatibility - older ~2004-2009 era TabletPC's used the U-series tech that was in the earlier Cintiq 15X, 17X and 18SX from 2000-2001, so they were compatible. You can tell by the "UP" prefix for those pens, for example UP-911E. The Wacom Pro Pen is for the latest H-series tablets (Cintiq/MobileStudio Pro, Intuos Pro, aka DTH and PTH model numbers respectively) and thus won't work. It's more likely that the Samsung S-pen still uses the same U-series protocol but nobody here has tried that combination in order to confirm. If jedikalimero  has tried the pen from an STU-series signature tablet and it worked with the Note4, then it's very likely the Note4 and other S-Pen devices use that protocol and will work with a Cintiq 15X pen like the UP-911E.

With more modern tablet PCs like the surface pro it's harder to guess, as they are likely to use some newer Wacom technology like AES or possibly have an N-trig digitizer which is from a completely different company.
2  Screen Tablet malarky / Heyaaaalpppp / Re: Salvaging touchscreen from a Toshiba Portege M780 on: August 08, 2017, 04:55:21 PM
You won't have any trouble getting the digitizer to work with a teensy, but you need to make sure you have a datasheet for your particular screen. I have this LCD assembly from a Portege R400 and though the digitizer works great, finding a datasheet for that particular Toshiba screen has been a major pain in the ass.

 If you can find a datasheet for your screen you should be all set - just order a controller board and a Teensy and start thinking about how to build the housing. Often using the laptop's upper half as a housing and screwing a box with the controller on the back is a good solution.
3  Screen Tablet malarky / Heyaaaalpppp / Re: dropped 21UX 2nd gen not responding to stylus. on: August 08, 2017, 04:02:05 PM
Those things are solid-state components, i doubt it's that. AFAIK the buttons and sliders are separate boards that connect to a board that's located on the left side. Better check it for loose connections and broken off SMD components. My bet is that there's no connection between that board and the actual digitizer grid that's located behind the screen.
4  Screen Tablet malarky / Heyaaaalpppp / Re: Laptop screen to wacom cintiqfor drawing on: June 14, 2017, 02:57:53 PM
The difference is in the chip they use - some have the Realtek RTD2660 chip, others have a VST29 which i haven't of and the third use the Novatek NT68676 found in some njytouch controllers. All of them will probably work fine.
im gonna buy the italian One with all' kit It Will bè 70€ Shocked

I've had success with this one - https://www.aliexpress.com/item/HDMI-LVDS-Controller-Board-40-Pins-Lvds-Cable-Kits-for-Raspberry-PI-3-LP156WH2-TLA1-TLE11366/32645792288.html

It gets hot at the 12V to 5V regulator but other than that it works ok. Check what's available on Aliexpress - often stuff is cheaper than eBay, and the controllers all come from the same chinese manufacturers. If you're willing to wait that is.
5  Screen Tablet malarky / Heyaaaalpppp / Re: Laptop screen to wacom cintiqfor drawing on: June 13, 2017, 10:44:01 PM
The difference is in the chip they use - some have the Realtek RTD2660 chip, others have a VST29 which i haven't of and the third use the Novatek NT68676 found in some njytouch controllers. All of them will probably work fine.
6  Screen Tablet malarky / Heyaaaalpppp / Re: Cintiq 21UX with a Severed Cable - Can We Restore It to Working Order? on: May 10, 2017, 08:02:28 PM
I know, right? I've been pondering the cheap DTZs on eBay, but everyone seems to think the Intuos 4 Cintiqs are miles apart. There's still a very good chance this thing is inoperable (or will be after I get my soldering iron in there), so don't count me too lucky yet.  Cheesy

Not really, i'd say they're just as good - it's just that DTK versions are usually more rare and expensive. I have a 12WX (DTZ-1200) here and there's honestly not much of a difference between it and the DTU-tech used in older Cintiqs and common TabletPC's. Most noticeable difference is that the grip pen is much nicer and with 2 buttons. The hover distance and report rate are better on DTZ but those don't matter as much.

The main issue I have read about the 21UX is that the screen is not spectacular and that it still shows some jitter on the borders (it still is a CCFL backlit panel, I fear).

My 12WX does jitter in the right side, that may be where the CCFL is. Corner-jitter is actually worse compared to a TabletPC digitizer and i don't know why! TabletPC digitizers are supposed to be "cheaper" but i really like their overall performance.
7  Screen Tablet malarky / Heyaaaalpppp / Re: Cintiq 21UX with a Severed Cable - Can We Restore It to Working Order? on: May 09, 2017, 11:25:06 PM
Aw man, DTK version too... I'm jelly.  Roll Eyes

It's a 4-pin DIN connector, they use em for appliances that draw a lot of power at low voltages like 12V or so (Cintiq needs 7A). As with all these round DIN connectors the pin arrangement has different variations of the same pin count, but it shouldn't be too hard to find one from places like aliexpress or local electronics stores.

8  Screen Tablet malarky / Monitors / Re: Screen scratch repairs - Buff out or Squeege Fill? on: April 25, 2017, 06:38:26 PM
If it were me, i would not mess with epoxy or such compounds unless i have to. Normally when you buy secondhand there is always a "matte stain" in the middle where most of the drawing happens. The 21UX-es come with a plastic film coating on the glass in order to simulate a "paper like feel" and it gets worn out pretty quickly. But, with some patience it can be peeled off completely - after that you just need to place a screen protector over the bare glass and it should look as good as new. Here's a link for reference.

9  Screen Tablet malarky / Design issues / Re: wacom emr board from fujitsu tablet how to connect on: April 25, 2017, 08:26:11 AM
Yeah, if it's metal there it's a lost cause. Guess i haven't dealt with many modern laptops as the ones i've opened have always been plastic on the back.
10  Screen Tablet malarky / Design issues / Re: wacom emr board from fujitsu tablet how to connect on: April 23, 2017, 01:32:17 PM
1) It's possible, but you normally won't find them alone. Most of the time they come with the LCD screen as one unit like in the link.
2) That will be tricky because nobody here has much experience with the newer-generation digitizers like on the T734. It's very likely they're USB, but the pinout is a mystery. The AES digitizer likely uses USB as well, so you may be able to get away with splicing its cable and routing it to the EMR digitizer instead. The EMR digitizer itself just peels off and you should be able to stick it to the back of the Dell screen if the size matches and there are no obstructions.
11  Screen Tablet malarky / Heyaaaalpppp / Re: Wacom alternatives on: April 18, 2017, 08:57:40 PM
Older Wacom digitizers (especially the Intuos 3 series) seem to be available pretty cheaply used (I got an A4 version for 25€ and a A5 version for 20€ some time ago).
As for alternatives there are quite a few but most of which I tried didn't come close to Wacom (I heard some good things about XP-Pen and Huion but I never tried those two).

The digitizers yes, but the pens (ZP series) are rather expensive, more than the KP-series for the Intuos 4 tablets. If you can find an Intuos 3 with a pen at a reasonable price, it's a bargain. They are mostly 4:3 though.
12  Screen Tablet malarky / Heyaaaalpppp / Re: diy cintiq with fujitsu T5010 screen on: February 19, 2017, 01:06:15 PM
The T731 digitier looks like one of those newer generation ones, so it may be USB. Not much info on the pinout for those sadly... Have you tried testing with a multimeter or peeling back the cable to see how many of those pins are actually connected to anything?
13  Screen Tablet malarky / Heyaaaalpppp / Re: Suitable wacom on: January 07, 2017, 12:22:13 PM
So any wacom is big  enough is suitale?

That depends on what you consider "suitable" - you can put any tablet behind a screen, but if it's smaller you won't be able to use all of the drawing area. If the screen is too thick, you will get bad pen detection and jitter. It's not as simple as "this model works, this model doesn't". Do a little research, there's plenty of info here.
14  Screen Tablet malarky / Heyaaaalpppp / Re: Suitable wacom on: January 04, 2017, 05:49:36 PM
It's rather small, you need to look for ones that match the size and dimensions of existing LCD screens.
15  Screen Tablet malarky / Heyaaaalpppp / Re: Fujitsu T904 based build - 2K 13" screen - digitizer connector? on: December 20, 2016, 09:36:31 PM
Thank you so much for the link- do you know if I would be able to exchange the screen with any of those other ones and still keep the digitizer and drawing capabilities intact? I use this for all of my art so I really need to keep its drawing ability, and I'm not sure if the digitizer is a separate piece or somehow bound to the screen itself. Also, would I need any kind of specific LED strip to just replace that, or could I find that more easily? I'm sorry if these are obvious questions or anything, I don't know much about screens. I've figured that it is probably a light problem because I have a vertical band on the screen with color distortion and flickering and heat at the bottom, but every computer specialist I've been to has been unwilling to help or open the screen to check this. I was wondering if I could simply replace the LED strip which would be obviously ideal.

I don't see why not - worst case is you'll have to transfer the digitizer from your old screen onto the new one. They're just stuck on the back with some adhesive, it's not a big deal. You don't even need to stick them on super accurately either, as running a calibration should compensate for any slight offsets. You can even stick it onto a screen without a digitizer if it's cheaper, though nowadays the price is usually the same with or without one. As for the LED strip, they're often a size and arrangement specific to the panel, you can search eBay for a suitable replacement.
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