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1  Screen Tablet malarky / Heyaaaalpppp / Re: diy cintiq with fujitsu T5010 screen on: February 19, 2017, 01:06:15 PM
The T731 digitier looks like one of those newer generation ones, so it may be USB. Not much info on the pinout for those sadly... Have you tried testing with a multimeter or peeling back the cable to see how many of those pins are actually connected to anything?
2  Screen Tablet malarky / Heyaaaalpppp / Re: Suitable wacom on: January 07, 2017, 12:22:13 PM
So any wacom is big  enough is suitale?

That depends on what you consider "suitable" - you can put any tablet behind a screen, but if it's smaller you won't be able to use all of the drawing area. If the screen is too thick, you will get bad pen detection and jitter. It's not as simple as "this model works, this model doesn't". Do a little research, there's plenty of info here.
3  Screen Tablet malarky / Heyaaaalpppp / Re: Suitable wacom on: January 04, 2017, 05:49:36 PM
It's rather small, you need to look for ones that match the size and dimensions of existing LCD screens.
4  Screen Tablet malarky / Heyaaaalpppp / Re: Fujitsu T904 based build - 2K 13" screen - digitizer connector? on: December 20, 2016, 09:36:31 PM
Thank you so much for the link- do you know if I would be able to exchange the screen with any of those other ones and still keep the digitizer and drawing capabilities intact? I use this for all of my art so I really need to keep its drawing ability, and I'm not sure if the digitizer is a separate piece or somehow bound to the screen itself. Also, would I need any kind of specific LED strip to just replace that, or could I find that more easily? I'm sorry if these are obvious questions or anything, I don't know much about screens. I've figured that it is probably a light problem because I have a vertical band on the screen with color distortion and flickering and heat at the bottom, but every computer specialist I've been to has been unwilling to help or open the screen to check this. I was wondering if I could simply replace the LED strip which would be obviously ideal.

I don't see why not - worst case is you'll have to transfer the digitizer from your old screen onto the new one. They're just stuck on the back with some adhesive, it's not a big deal. You don't even need to stick them on super accurately either, as running a calibration should compensate for any slight offsets. You can even stick it onto a screen without a digitizer if it's cheaper, though nowadays the price is usually the same with or without one. As for the LED strip, they're often a size and arrangement specific to the panel, you can search eBay for a suitable replacement.
5  Screen Tablet malarky / Heyaaaalpppp / Re: Wacom Digitizer from Thinkpad X60/X61 Tablet on: December 15, 2016, 12:57:46 PM
Are you referring to the pen digitizer on the X61t or the touchscreen that's included in some models? Because connecting the pen digitizer is pretty easy and straight-forward, but i haven't seen anyone connect the touchscreen yet.

Pen digitizer only. It doesn't have touch, besides, I don't like using touch at all.

So, WaxBee on a Teensy, and it should work fine, right?

Yep. Pinout is:

Pin 1 -> GND
Pin 13 -> VCC 3.3V
Pin 10 -> TX
Pin 9 -> RX

At least that's what the pinout has been for all the digitizers i've tried, one of which is from an X61T.
6  Screen Tablet malarky / Heyaaaalpppp / Re: Wacom Digitizer from Thinkpad X60/X61 Tablet on: December 14, 2016, 11:54:31 AM
Necrobump!

Any luck with this build? Were there any advancements made, here or elsewhere, in getting these to run?

I've got an elderly X61t with a SU5E-12S05AS-02X, and looking forward to start the conversion.

bernard,
talking about UnderSampled, which thread are you referring to?

http://forum.bongofish.co.uk/index.php?topic=1659.90 this

Are you referring to the pen digitizer on the X61t or the touchscreen that's included in some models? Because connecting the pen digitizer is pretty easy and straight-forward, but i haven't seen anyone connect the touchscreen yet.
7  Screen Tablet malarky / Useful Links / Re: Infra red touch bar on: December 11, 2016, 11:47:05 PM
You can buy an actual touchscreen digitizer glass at that price (or less) from say, an HP touchsmart laptop or similar. You can also find tabletPC screens with wacom pen+touch digitizers built in. Fun gadget, but i doubt it has the multitouch capability needed in a cintiq-type application. Even with proper touch support on the real thing, i havent seen one cintiq user that actually uses it, everyone prefers to just use the side buttons.
8  Screen Tablet malarky / Heyaaaalpppp / Re: Fujitsu T904 based build - 2K 13" screen - digitizer connector? on: December 08, 2016, 11:11:31 PM
Hey, sorry to butt in like this, but may I ask where you found this screen for sale, and if it's still in stock? I have a T904 with a faulty screen (seems like a light problem) and have been trying desperately to find a replacement with almost no luck. I'd really appreciate it, thank you.

Look for similar ones from Sharp on panelook.com that use the same pinout on their datasheet. Most starting with "LQ133T1JW" ought to be interchangeable, but check the datasheet just to be sure. If your current panel only has a backlight issue, you should be able to swap out the LED strip with a new one. There's plenty of LQ133T1JW02's on eBay, seems like the main difference is that they're thicker and taller than the W17's by just half a millimeter.
9  Screen Tablet malarky / Build Logs / Re: Experimenting with the HP 2710p Tablet PC digitizer (SU-12W18A-01X) on: November 02, 2016, 04:02:55 PM
Quote from: ThrowingChicken
I went ahead and picked one of these up.  Which LCD controller are you using?  Is the pin out for the Teensy the same as it was for the 2710p digitizer? 

I replied to your email about this, but i'm going to post the info here too for anyone interested:

I'm using this controller here: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/HDMI-LVDS-Controller-Board-40-Pins-Lvds-Cable-Kit-for-Raspberry-PI-3-LP156WH2-TLA1-TLE1/32645792288.html

I told them to program it for an HX121WX1, should work equally well on the non-transflective HV121's too.
- Be warned that it does get kinda hot.
- You will have to send them a message with the datasheet and ask them include the correct cable for your panel, which is an extra 7$. They will ask you to add the controller to your shopping cart etc. without paying. It's so that they can readjust the price first before you pay.

For the Teensy - Yes, pinout is the same across all the serial digitizers with a 14-pin connector, at least the ones i have here. It's:

 
9 - RX (D2 on the Teensy)
10 - TX (D3 on the Teensy)
13 - VCC
14 - GND

I think you can use Pin 1 as ground also, check on your connector. I've tested this setup on at least two 2730p digitizers (SU-12W18A-04X), one from a Toshiba Portege R400 (SU-12W07E-01X) and some 4:3 ones from an HP TC4400 (SU-025-C02) - all of them work.

My suggestion would be to get some cheap switching dc step down modules (such as LM2596) and remove or bypass the linear regulators.

Not a bad idea, but doing that is not as easy since the board is entirely SMD components. Even just a beefier regulator should do the job, but putting it on there might pose a challenge.
10  Screen Tablet malarky / Heyaaaalpppp / Re: Has anyone replaced the CCFL in a Cintiq 21UX? on: October 28, 2016, 12:52:43 AM
Nice! I'm glad to hear you got it revived and running. Dust can be really annoying, i heard that running some hot water in the bathroom to create steam helps keep dust particles out of the air. High moisture is probably not good for the electronics though...
11  Screen Tablet malarky / Heyaaaalpppp / Re: DIY Laptop, charging curcuit / display controller board on: October 04, 2016, 10:05:25 AM
Most of the time the seller of the display controller boards will look at the datasheet and fashion a cable with that connector. For LVDS it's the mating connector for the LCD on one side, and on the other it's a standard 2.54mm duPont-type header connector. It's probably the same for eDP, so it's easiest to ask them to make a cable for you, they're about 5$ or so. If the connector on the LCD side is the same as your old display, all you'd need to do is make sure the pins on the board correspond to the ones in the LCD's datasheet and rearrange them if necessary.
12  Screen Tablet malarky / Heyaaaalpppp / Re: DIY Laptop, charging curcuit / display controller board on: October 02, 2016, 06:28:26 PM
Usually the connector brand and model are written in the datasheet for your display. Most of the time they're manufactured by JAE, sometimes I-PEX or Cvilux.
13  Screen Tablet malarky / Build Logs / Re: Experimenting with the HP 2710p Tablet PC digitizer (SU-12W18A-01X) on: September 28, 2016, 08:27:53 PM
You're wrong.
CCFL need inverter - constant current driver (about 5-10mA) with high voltage (100-1000V during work, more at startup). Usually we named it inverter because output are AC. But CCFL will work on DC too.
LED need driver - constant current DC driver (from 20mA up to 1A) with usually 18-100V voltage generated via step-up DC/DC circuit.

Come on, there's nothing wrong with what i said. Using CCFL's with DC is impractical and almost never used. You won't find LCD panels with a DC-operated CCFL backlight.

Quote
Can You check power consumption for this converter? I mean input current and voltage for bare board (LCD disconnected) when converter fully working. If no, please at least check temperature of main chip after few minutes of work.
I'm searching for energy-efficient and cool LVDS converter (VGA or HDMI input) for my mobile rPi project. Converters based on TSUMV59 are great but need to much power and generate too much heat. Even HDMI->VGA->LVDS works cooler than this.

It gets very hot at the voltage regulator, so i wouldn't recommend that particular one. They run off 12V too, which would be a headache since you'll need to regulate it down to 5V for the rPi. I remember a store selling driver boards that were designed to be used specifically with a raspberry pi, but were meant for 7'' displays. Ridiculously expensive too. In my personal opinion, an rPi is a pretty poor computer, there are cheap second-hand tablet and laptop motherboards that are much more suitable as mobile devices, with a charge controller and LVDS driver in the one thin-profile board. The 2730p i got off eBay for 20$ has comparable dimensions and weight to a raspberry pi hack-top, except with a faster everything.
14  Screen Tablet malarky / Heyaaaalpppp / Re: Has anyone replaced the CCFL in a Cintiq 21UX? on: September 27, 2016, 11:27:53 AM
Excellent stuff, thanks for the pictures! The CCFL's look like they could just pop out and you can plug new ones on there. Is that the inverter board on the left in pic2 and 3? For an LED conversion you may be able to just replace that board with a LED driver and route some stips to where the CCFL's go. Looks like there's plenty of room for it.
15  Screen Tablet malarky / Tablet Conversion to USB / Re: How to "install" WaxBee converter on Arduino Pro Micro, clones or any ATmega32U4 on: September 27, 2016, 11:04:22 AM
Pro Micros should have a 3.3V version in addition to the 5V one. Teensies are normally 5V, so you need to convert them to 3.3V by adding a voltage regulator on the back. Now that they work, generic chinese Teensy 2.0 clones are probably a better option since they're now cheaper than Adafruit's Pro Micros.

You might be able to use waxbee with the default bootloader on pro micros now that it's smaller. That would mean no need to do the USBasp part, but i haven't tried it myself to confirm.
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