I found a screen of the same model and revision (relatively new) and both have the same symptoms.

If the programming is bad is there anyone on bongofish that has a programmer and is willing to lend/sell/program for me with thiers?

After some testing, I have figured out the screen is fine but the controller is probably bad. Suggestions?

Like this?

(Picture of post)


Normal Contrast


Max Contrast


Half Contrast


Also, It's not just the colors apparently, the letters in the screen OSD are all messed up and unreadable.

I should mention this is a laptop screen with a NJYTouch controller, so buying a new screen will only cost about $15; but I don't want to buy a new screen just to have the same thing happen again.

So I have an LCD that works fine except that the colors appear all shifted or something. The LCD worked perfect before I taken it apart, but I can see no real damage. All connections appear alright and I have been looking for a solution. Otherwise, I have little or no jitter (yay?). Does this LCD have no hope of working correctly?

Windows 'My Computer'


This;


Turns to this.


There are some darker colors unseen in this picture. Messing with the LCD contrast will move the visible lines along the color spectrum in the picture.

Yeah the status light does everything it is supposed to, but I have no idea what happened to the LCD.
I am in the process of scowering the electronics. The multimeter may or may not need to come out later, depending on some more tests.

So I have a Dell 1504FP that I know used to work, but the LCD decided to stop working about a week ago. The inverter and backlights work normally but the LCD is entirely dark. I can see no physical damage on the LCD or connections and have been inspecting the control board.
Is there a way to kill a screen without kicking or smashing it (like static or bad connection)?
Is the screen a lost cause?

Yeah, as mentioned the tablet is working as it should now with 0-11 (unlike 0-10c). I don't know to what extent because I haven't had time to fool around with the settings much. I may yet find a way to fix the eraser. So far I have just tried the pen in photoshop.

So, I tried different versions of the wacom drivers and even tried the tablet on someone's mac laptop, but nothing worked.


I noticed you released waxbee 0-11 about two days ago and downloaded it (was using 0-10c). I loaded up my teensy with a template; and now... I have basic tablet functionality.
I haven't tested much or calibrated anything, but the utility is tracking pen tilt, pressure, ect. The eraser also registers as a pen tip so far (that normal for waxbee+axiotron pen?).

Bernard you have been a great help and I am just as confused as you are.

Waxbee seemed pretty straightforward, I programmed it with the right template, inside and outside waxbee.

Alright, got RealTerm working.
~#UD-1212-R00 V1.5-4
~C15240,15240

Hex log for RealTerm corresponds to:
pen hover from upper left to lower right diagonally
pen out
pen in
pen touch in center
pen buttons and then eraser in center

Hex Dump
http://pastebin.com/raw.php?i=uBfMGgr3

Would a damaged connection result in partial communication, or a completely non-functional wacom?
Like if the RXD was okay but the TXD was damaged.

[Wires:]

Yeah, sorry about the glue, the idea was to insulate the solder or something like that.

Wires: white is TXD; green is RXD

HID Listen: played with the pen and everything was a variation of this

Waiting for device:...
Listening:
- Enter prox =Pen

[USB Packet - In Range packet, eraser=0]
 -Exit prox
[USB Packet - Out of Range packet, (all zeros)]
proxOutTrigger()
 -Enter prox =Eraser

[USB Packet - In Range packet, eraser=1]
 -Exit prox

[USB Packet - Out of Range packet, (all zeros)]
proxOutTrigger()
 -Enter prox =Pen

Serial test: RealTerm wont work on 64x or something so I used a program called HyperTerminal

~#UD-1212-R00 V1.5-4
I don't know if it was the program but ~C didn't seem to do anything
Moving and using the pen did result in random gibberish.


I tried the tablet on a 32x XP and had the same result. I also noticed I can't adjust tablet settings unless it is plugged in, so it kinda knows something is there.
Would a faulty transmission wire to the teensy cause such symptoms? I know the tablet is getting power and at least communicates on some level.

I may need to re-check soldering. If needed is there an alternate solder point for the number 11 foot on the mc145406?

Yes, I have Intuos2 drivers installed.

The light: on the wacom tablet.

As far as I know I programmed the teensy right.
I can try reprogramming it again.



I can take more if needed.

I had the chance to test my tablet and have a similar problem to xfactor. The status light blinks whenever I use the pen, but the computer sees nothing more that a generic USB device.

Connector and datasheet
http://jae-connector.com/en/product_en.cfm?l_code=EN&series_code=FI&product_number=FI-S20S
http://jae-connector.com/en/pdf/SJ031451.pdf

Pre-crimped set
http://search.digikey.com/us/en/cat/cable-assemblies/rectangular/1573018?k=JAE%20FI-S20S

Some wholesale
http://www.alibaba.com/product-gs/384003475/jae_fix_lvds_cable_assembly.html
http://she6c059.en.wdtrade.com/p103897/LVDS-Cable-LCD-cable-LED-cable-monitor-cable-video-cable.aspx


I doubt wholesale suppliers sell one of something though.
Digikey still seems a bit pricey.

I didn't spend allot of time making that diagram; my waxbee mod is already done. I am just waiting for my pen to test it (and sort out this monitor thing).

Yeah, I am not so sure about that adaptor but it has the same connector as my LVDS (20pinx25mm). I don't imagine there is a place you can just buy an empty connector+pins to make your own cables is there?

Still looking for a datasheet on the monitor.





AAAHHH: This British website keeps trying to correct my adaptor to adapter

Alright first, a general idea of what I have going so far.



I should also apologize for my crappy camera.



As mentioned, this is a 1504fp so it's a little different than a 1503. Including a built-in power transformer. As you can see everything is still separate though.



The dangling cable is the one that connects to the LCD. Inverter cables plug in under the metal lip on top and bottom.
I was planning so far to just modify this 'cage', put it in an acrylic plastic box and bolt it under the wacom (see above). But I think I will experiment more before I hack up the inverter cables.

Also would something like these help?
http://www.pchub.com/uph/laptop/582-27341-5178/UPH-OEEX001-LCD-Inverter-Wire-Extension.html
http://www.pchub.com/uph/laptop/604-28195-5753/UPH-OECV010-LCD-Cable-Extension.html