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1  Screen Tablet malarky / Build Logs / Re: Intuos4 XL (x2) 40" 4K or 27" Apple Display on: July 28, 2017, 11:38:50 AM
Things are a little slow on the forum these days, so bare with us.

I've ticked the 40" 4K option mostly for selfish reasons; I want to see it done. There may be factors that mean that you might not be able to do either though, I'll explain a bit later.

The only other person that has tackled a bigger build is DaBotz, who is still active on the forum - possibly more so than most actually. The one thing I would say though is that I think a large 4K might be a pioneering step for the DIY Cintiq community, so expect the unexpected and we will try and give advice where we can. Also, expect to break things. At the level that these screens get stripped back to things get fragile.

Whether or not you can use a screen for a build depends mostly on how the screen was manufactured. If the screen panel has important wires that run across the back of it (which cannot be extended), that's game over from the off. Other factors include the mysterious jitters, this is where the screen circuitry interferes with the tablet and causes the mouse cursor to bounce around and sometimes randomly click. Some screens are worse than others, there are no lists of which work and which don't (there's too many and the community is too small), so you undertake the project at some risk. That said, you can get a good idea of how good things are likely to be by stripping the panel back and placing it on the tablet directly - you are likely to see some jitters since there will be little to no shielding, but with any luck the movement will be small and with no random clicks. Following on from this, the thickness of the panel with the backlight may simply be too large for the tablet signal to penetrate, testing at this stage will let you know (but don't forget to include a protective layer over the panel in your calculations). From memory I think there is about 10 - 14mm depending on the tablet.

Oh, the other thing about the screen panel is that you have to remove any metal backing that might be present; for some screens this is straight forward, for others not so much. Any metal behind the screen blocks the radio signals from the tablet in that region, simple as that.

I'm sure you're probably getting the idea at this point that you will need to be a patient person with some decent experience of building stuff. Don't let any of this put you off, go for it and good luck!

2  Screen Tablet malarky / Build Logs / Re: UbiQ 3 on: July 25, 2017, 10:21:30 PM
I love it, a giant embedded intuos 2 diy Cintiq! has that been done before, I'm not sure. You're becoming a pioneer of the massive diy Cintiq.

Looks like the build works pretty well too, do you think there will be a UbiQ 4 in the future?
3  Screen Tablet malarky / Build Logs / Re: Foam-tiq, son of Tecra-tiq, a more mobile M4 rendition. Success. on: July 25, 2017, 10:08:40 PM
Excellent post. It's good to see someone tackle something in a slightly different way. Nice addition of the "had to do it again" section, this kind of information is sometimes held back due to embarrassment, but I think it demonstrates a good development process, and illustrates factors that future builders may be wise to take on.

I hope you come back and take on an evolution of this project one day.
4  Screen Tablet malarky / Build Logs / Re: Unneeded-IQ on: July 25, 2017, 09:55:40 PM
I've just been catching up on your builds DaBotz, you've been busy!

Its a shame that this project hasn't worked out, but it sounds like you learnt a few things so it wasn't all wasted.

Looking forward to the next project!
5  Screen Tablet malarky / Build Logs / Re: Serenitiq 2 - Wacom Intuos 4 L + Rozsnyo DP2MBPR controller + LTN154YL01 on: July 25, 2017, 03:10:18 PM
I found this picture of the ITO coated film being glued to the glass. You can see the glue being drawn out by capillary action, I thought it might be useful to include it.

6  Screen Tablet malarky / Build Logs / Re: Serenitiq 2 - Wacom Intuos 4 L + Rozsnyo DP2MBPR controller + LTN154YL01 on: July 25, 2017, 02:30:13 PM
Here you can see the clean lines that the above process achieved. You can also see that I worked from the outside in, dealing with the more complex cut out parts first.

With the screen painted I began work on applying the capacitive layer for the touch sensor.

The capacitive touch layer (Indium Tin Oxide coated Plastic) was glued to the glass using LOCA (Liquid Optically Clear Adhesive) and cured using UV light (I used the Sun); The conductive side of the capacitive layer is facing away from the glass.

On top of the ITO coated plastic, a layer of optically clear double sided film was applied. This stuff is sold on ebay for the diy repair of phones; by the way, don't even bother trying to use this stuff for that, without the proper tools it will just cause you a headache. The adhesive is so sticky and gooey that bubbles get trapped easily, and cleaning it off again is a nightmare. Even with the relatively small size areas that I use this stuff I managed to get a few bubbles trapped.

At one edge of the ITO film a layer I placed a strip of conductive adhesive copper tape. The copper tape provides a good area to attach wires later. The copper tape I have is branded by Adafruit and is sold on Amazon/ebay.

On top of the optically clear double sided film I placed a layer of linerally polarized film (see below), however I didn't take any photos of this so you'll just have to take my word for it.

Since I want to get the maximum brightness from the OLED screen without running them to their limit, I decided to remove the polarizing film from the front of each screen and use a thinner polarizer instead. Linearly polarizing film can be bought quite cheaply on ebay.

7  Screen Tablet malarky / Build Logs / Re: Serenitiq 2 - Wacom Intuos 4 L + Rozsnyo DP2MBPR controller + LTN154YL01 on: July 25, 2017, 01:59:05 PM
So let's bring things a bit more up to date. I have painted the glass cover, cut out the area for the oled screen to shine through, installed the capacitive touch film, installed the oled screens, and am beginning to embark on wiring it all up. With that spoiler, here's what I actually did:

I printed a full scale template of the areas to be cut out on paper and placed it under the glass as a guide.

Since there was a bit of a trick to getting clean edges (explained later), time was a bit limited and so the screen was painted in thirds using the paper guide as reference.

After the paint was no longer liquid but, critically, also not dry (also explained later), a self adhesive vinyl version of the template was placed over the top to act as a cutting guide and structural support during paint removal.

The areas where the OLED screen are to shine through were cut through the vinyl and gently peeled away from the glass.

I tried various methods to get a perfect clean edge on glass including masking tapes and spray paints of numerous qualities and types with very little success. The method that eventually worked used Valspar (UK version of Platikote) brush on quick dry enamel paint. Additionally I also used a Silane glass primer to prep the glass for the paint, however Alcohol wipes would probably work just as well.

1. paint on a thin later of paint and quickly dry it using a hot air gun on a medium to low heat (a hairdryer would probably work).
2. when the liquid shine has gone, paint on another layer at right angles to the original brush stroke, then dry again as above.
3. repeat this a few times until you have about 6 layers and no light can be seen through the glass.
4. cut out your shapes with a very sharp knife or scalpel.
5. leave overnight to dry off some more, and repeat the above for the next two thirds.

Because of the rapid heating of the enamel, the paint does not dry properly, becomes stretchy, and most importantly becomes very easy to cut. However, since the layers of paint are still quite thin, it is necessary to have something on the surface to aid the peeling from the glass as the paint can stretch and tear easily.
8  Screen Tablet malarky / Build Logs / Re: Serenitiq 2 - Wacom Intuos 4 L + Rozsnyo DP2MBPR controller + LTN154YL01 on: July 22, 2017, 03:41:19 PM
Just to say that I took a break from this project for a while due to other projects/commitments however, I have now found some time to continue this again so look out for further posts on Serenitiq2 progress soon.

9  Screen Tablet malarky / Monitors / Re: Assorted selection of problems with a universal LVDS controller on: November 07, 2016, 03:13:59 PM
The enable output from the MT6820-B is 5V, I believe the LED driver board requires an enable of 3V maximum. It worked well for a short while until it failed causing 10x more current to pass through the resistor and burn it out. I measured a max of 120mA going through the 100Ohm resistor before I realized that the ME15N10 FET had failed. I'm not completely sure what happened to the ME15N10 transistor as it should've been able to handle +/- 20V at the gate, however it did indeed fail.

The reason I suspect I originally used the IRL540N and inverter tester was so that I had a better control of the enable and dim voltages in case of compatibilty issues. It is still true that the IRL540N was a bit redundant, as the enable switch as I could have utilized the variable resistors on the inverter tester board to adjust the enable voltage. This would have meant hacking the inverter tester a little, which at the time seemed a pain in the backside, so I opted to use the HEXFET to control enabling the inveter tester instead.

Obviously now, hacking the inverter tester seems trivial compared to the problems I caused myself. Doh!


Make sure your parts are compatible; The screen I have was originally CCFL and I converted it using a kit from China - I should have checked the board over properly.

Alternatively, make sure you know what voltages are expected at the LED Driver/CCFL inverter end before you go ahead and plug it in to your LVDS controller; you shouldn't need to worry about this if you purchased the LVDS controller and Inverter/Driver as a kit, the seller will have already matched them.

Here's the modification made to get the board running again - Guess who's back!

I will need to remove the ME15N10 properly and try and mount the resistor a little better, but it's all working fine now, and the IRL540N requires


This worked OK for a bit until the Vcc pin of the LED driver chip came off. Nevermind, I'll just have to order another and learn from my mistakes.

Also, Ertews method is still sound, it's just that you need to make sure that you do not over-volt the driver/inverter somehow before proceeding.
10  Screen Tablet malarky / Monitors / Re: Assorted selection of problems with a universal LVDS controller on: November 04, 2016, 10:44:12 AM
Hmmmm........ OK, so this could just be coincidence however, today the LED backlight current board burnt out with a huge stink of smoke.  Cry

I suspect that the board - which was from China and very cheap - is at fault rather than the rewiring discussed previously, however I will look into this a bit more and make sure that nothing else got taken out during the event.

Here a pic of the burnt out resistor:


Originally this was an SMD resistor of the same value (of which I forget now), however the original resistor cracked in half when I attempted to pull the board from some double-sided tape. Obviously too much current has passed through the resistor but as yet I have no idea why. I'm not even sure if the LEDs are still working.

11  Screen Tablet malarky / Monitors / Re: Assorted selection of problems with a universal LVDS controller on: November 03, 2016, 02:32:14 PM
Spot the difference. I'll give you a clue:

The inverter tested has been stripped virtually bare so just the connector, a resistor, and an LED are present. This was so that I could fully disconnect the backlight if I needed to strip the screen down again. Using the connector on the LVDS controller wouldn't allow this due to being connected to 5V power.

Tested and working, check out the refresh rate and resolution of this bad boy! - ahh, and there's the homeless little HEXFET sitting on the bezel:

I left the resistor on the protoboard connected to nothing as I have thousands of them.

2 less components and the OSD now controls brightness.

12  Screen Tablet malarky / Monitors / Re: Assorted selection of problems with a universal LVDS controller on: November 03, 2016, 09:30:12 AM
Haha... Cheesy

Actually that's a very fair point. I did this a few months ago now so I don't remember my reasoning, but I imagine it was just a matter of not seeing the wood for the trees. You're perfectly right that both the resistor and HEXFET aren't really needed. I probably just had the parts laying around and didn't think too much about it, or possibly had intentions to use the BL signal to do something else.

Ertew, thanks. I think I'm going to rewire my setup as per your suggestion since it has the advantage of allowing the backlight to be controlled from the OSD. Nice!

There's an outcome that I hadn't expected when I posted yesterday!

Cheers.  Wink
13  Screen Tablet malarky / Heyaaaalpppp / Re: Known good LVDS cables are shorting when I wire them up on: November 02, 2016, 04:20:15 PM
What controller board and screen are you using? Do you have pictures? You can upload them in the 'Additional Options' when you reply.
14  Screen Tablet malarky / Build Logs / Re: Experimenting with the HP 2710p Tablet PC digitizer (SU-12W18A-01X) on: November 02, 2016, 04:18:32 PM
True it would be a bit fiddly, but it's do-able.

Interesting board by the way, I've not seen that one kicking around before.
15  Screen Tablet malarky / Monitors / Re: Assorted selection of problems with a universal LVDS controller on: November 02, 2016, 04:10:35 PM
This is what my setup looks like:

A quick note on the first picture. I've removed the switch and power socket and used jumpers to bridge the gaps as I didn't need these components. This CCFL inverter tester also has a slightly different layout to the one pictured in my previous post but they all work the same.



Additional components that can be seen are an Atmel ATTiny85 (used to display the status of the LVDS controller via an RGB LED), and an Adafruit AR1100 module (used to get the resistive touch layer to communicate with the pc via USB).

This was a 12.1" point of sale screen which I've hacked to be a small monitor for a small computer that I've built to run a CNC machine that I've almost finished building; was trying to keep the overall footprint of the machine small.
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