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1  Screen Tablet malarky / Build Logs / Re: UbiQ 3 on: April 26, 2017, 10:50:18 PM
Not really the Eureka moment that was the first build, but it's nice to have arrived here.[/i

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Alas, I soon realized that my toil wasn't over.

It seems that I really need to shield away the TCon board at the bottom... 

Then it will be time to measure stuff, cut some other, and buy a glass.
2  Screen Tablet malarky / Build Logs / Re: UbiQ 3 on: April 26, 2017, 10:43:58 PM
Checking where to place stuff, the safe way... paper cut and tape.

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Not forgetting some details...


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The final arrangement is fime emough.


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3  Screen Tablet malarky / Build Logs / Re: UbiQ 3 on: April 26, 2017, 10:29:33 PM
Update: I acquired a new FFC with a connector, however I forgot to check and ordered a "same side" FFC, when the one needed was - really -  a flip-side. Nothing major - cut, then take a cutter's blade and scrape the plastic on the side that need to be uncovered.

Which was good and well, as the guy that sold it to me had placed the connector on a tip with the blue stripe - it was to thick to actually enter in the LCD panel.

So, dismount it, and glue on the other tip that I had cut (removing the blue strip) and scraped bare... It works, so who cares that it is not too elegant. 


I have prepared the bottom of the case, modded the screen and finally joined the Intuos 2 and the LG... and so I discovered that the Tcon-board is very "noisy"on the right side of the screen (about 1/3rd is lost to false clicks, pressure blots and crazy jitter).

I need to build a sizeable RF case for it, but I am still confident that the build can be done. ... by simply raysing the thing up a bit, the interferences fell very noticeably, to what I'd call normal levels.



How to count pins, the lazy way - take a photo and mark them out.

[attachment=1]

To case or not to case... here an untouched Intuos 2 and the UBiQ in its current form... as you can see, the UBiQ has the same size, even if it has a 14 mm (1/2 inch) thick perimeter frame in plywood.

If it wasn't that I want to use this build on my laps, plywood would have probably served me better... renouncing the possibility to mount it in a board, the frame could go down to 7 mm... which would have made the build smaller than the original Intuos.  I may still build one, in the end...


[attachment=2]


The most "tranquil" way to cut a thick sheet of metal... drill holes.


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4  Screen Tablet malarky / Design issues / Re: wacom emr board from fujitsu tablet how to connect on: April 22, 2017, 10:19:48 PM
Before fighting with hardware, have you tried if you can manage the jitter with a stroke stabilyzer  software (like Lazy Nezumi) ?
5  Screen Tablet malarky / Build Logs / UbiQ 3 on: April 10, 2017, 12:11:41 PM
I recently acquired yet another Intuos 2 12x18 (yeah - finally, one of those bargains that seem to happen only to others - 50 bucks with shipping).

Me being me, I looked around for a monitor to place over it, and I opted for the 19.5" LG 20MP48

It is a LED backlit IPS monitor, although not a high-resolution one (1440x900 ) and only has one VGA input (shopping for a third party controller? maybe, if push comes to shove)  

This monitor represents yet another move toward sparing material, on LG part... the back of the LCD panel also acts as back case of the whole monitor, and the tiny VGA adapter is hosted inside a cover attached to its bottom that also hold the - as usual, not removible -  stand pivot. It is kept by three screws on the back, nothing more.

More important for the ones like us, the front plastic frame is - too - already part of the panel, being THE front frame for the panel... removing it was simpler than I expected and already exposed the lcd an the flexible connectors from the TCON to the LCD, 3 of them that they are (I didn't expect it, so I started from that and I found myself with the LCD wanting to fall out  in a moment I had my hands otherwise occupied).

As I expected, though, the 30 pin - 1mm pitch - FFC connector between  the VGA and the TCOn is long maybe 10 cm (I doubt it), so sourcing a longer connector is in order, for me, before trying more stuff.

The LED strip is at the bottom of the screen (with the TCON board) and it is connected wih three individial cables of the same kind used in the LG IPS224v that I used in my last re-build, i.e half the number.

In all, if the EMI are of the order of the ones from its bigger brother, this build should be all but virtually done.

Given the very smal footprint of this monitor VGA, its reduced thickness , and the fact that I already have a void case lying around, I think that I will build this one inside the Intuos 2 case.

  
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6  Screen Tablet malarky / Build Logs / Re: Here comes UBiQ 2 on: April 04, 2017, 09:32:59 PM
Another small update.

In the end, I found myself with the driver "losing" button 2 of the spens (independent from the stylus and tablet, as I have 3 different stylus and an aerograph, and three Intuos 2... an none worked).

Turns out, there is a Wacom Virtual HID driver that had to be disabled (it got me, also, rid of the "second circles" shown when I retract the pen point from the screen).

Done tha, everything went back to normal.

7  Screen Tablet malarky / Heyaaaalpppp / Re: Couple of questions on: April 03, 2017, 09:13:22 PM
If you go for a new monitor, a couple of informations:

The power units are discrete sources of electromagnetic interference, so monitors with a separated "power brick" tend to give better results (alternatively, you may opt for a design that keeps the power unit as away as possible, as I did in my first UBiQ)

The bulbs ( CCFL ) in most old screens, too, are nice sources of emi (what with their 700-1200 Volt... however, if one is unlucky, the 60 volts of a LED backlit panel can still interfere plenty, if they use the precisely wrong frequency).

IPS panels are not really a luxury (unless you are a B&W only author), in this use.

Also, keep in mind that most laptop screens are 6-bits per colour channel (64 levels instead of 256, or 256k colors instead of 16 millions)... which means that it is up to the firmware, in the panel or the controller, to emulate the missing colour resolution.

Some do a decent job at it, some don't, and some do not even really try (like the controller in my Mini-Q).



8  Screen Tablet malarky / Heyaaaalpppp / Re: Couple of questions on: March 31, 2017, 12:57:22 PM
If, for LED, you mean "LED backlight", it is the consensus that they are to be preferred to CCFL illuminated screens.

If you mean "OLed" - I don't know of any such build.


check things using the

http://forum.bongofish.co.uk/index.php?topic=1984.0


Options for a 23" - None that covers the whole screen

Options for a 22" -  (22" are 16:10, 21.5" are 16:9)
   
That cover the whole screen, the cheapest would be the Intuos 3 12x19.

It also has hotkeys, which make dismantling the Wacom and assembling the DiY a bit more challenging, but allow some very interesting option like having a "swap screen" button, that is useful on multi-monitors set-ups.

Also, there is no problem with drivers availability.

Cons: they cost easily twice or more the next alternative, or a 1/3rd of an Intuos 4 Extra Large (12x19.2).

If you can accept to have a couple of cm that are left out of the active area, where you have to reach with a mouse or something, you can use Intuos 2  (series XD) or Intuos 1 (series GD) 12 x18" . To remain inside the active areas, these accept at maximum a 21" 16:10 or 4:3 monitor.

Alternatively, LG is selling the LG 20MP48, that is a 19,5", 16:10 (1440x900) LED IPS screen that could be a nice prospect - I am going to try my hand with this combination, Intuos 2 + LG,  some time soon (next week or so)- You may hold on for a while, and see if I post news on it


However, while the drivers  for these older tablet may be installed in newer OSes like Windows 10, it may require a bit of wizardry (I stick with Intuos 2 and Windows 7).


If you are an open source enthusiast, in Linux the driver issue and the availability of hotkeys do not matter, as the Linux wacom project driver handles virtually everything Wacom has ever produced, and scripting allows to implement the swap screen buttons - and similar features - quite easily.


16" - there are really no options for that specific size.

15.4" (16:10) Intuos 4 L (PTK 840) - it may cost as a big Intuos 3, though, and it is not such a great improvement over the Intuos 3 - it is smaller than the panel by some 17-20 pixels that, well spaced, becomes a negligible 8 pixels-wide border.

15.6"  (16:9) - The same Intuos 4L , but the "unreachable" part of the screen becomes much more noticeable, especially on the vertical border(s).

15" 4:3 -> Every 9x12 and 12x12 tablet (Intuos "Large" up to the 3 series) fits perfectly ( a bit too much... requires a precise assembly). 

As a side note, in Windows a program called "Power strip" allows to restrict the output of the computer so that it matches an arbitrary resolution inside that of your screen, effectively "cutting" out unwanted (unreachable) parts of the monitor.

I never used it, but it is a possibility.


9  General Category / Can't stop building / Reference Images app on: March 09, 2017, 11:22:51 PM
This is a small Java application that allows to place  a number of "reference" pictures on the desktop,
and above your preferred drawing software, too...

Be gentle, I wrote it in a spur of Java fever, and it shows it, a bit.

My idea was to be able to have some photo references at hand, without having to print them, and without
feeling too much the temptation to just import them inside the drawing software and trace over them (which follows Wally Wood mantra, maybe a bit too much to the letter).

This is, really, the main "Original Sin" of having moved completely to the digital side (the SimtiQs are just too good).  

The application can open a series of small windows, that can be resized, moved, each one showing an image that can be resized and clipped (of course, just what we see - it is non-destructive).

It memorizes the parameters of each one, so that each frame will be restored more or less exactly the next time the application will be launched, and or when their  set ("Session") will be reloaded.

It can grab the images from the system clipboard (useful on google and the likes) automatically, or with a usual ctrl v (kind of... it depends a bit from what element in the GUI have focus, so it can misfire).

It has a management frame, a configuration window, a system tray icon with a pop-up menu... and its  share of small bugs (I will sort them out, with time).  

It is possible to decide to keep more than one set of reference pictures (which, by the way, need not be in any specific location on the computer, though the application stores its auto-saved clips in one location), each one called a "Session"...

Theoretically, one could have "cars", "flowers", "reference for Xyz drawing" etc.

Note that it has been designed for use, originally, as a back end to Windows' "Send to" feature...

To work with it, when my little app is run, it first tries to call any "older" copies of itself through TCP on the local machine, and if one instance of it is already open and listening (i.e. has already loaded all the GUI), the process spawned by the "Send To" event will simply send its "sister" the list of files to add, and die.

With no graphics involved, it is relatively fast.

For this reason, when the App runs for the first time, firewalls may pop a warning and ask to deny/allow the connection.

 A suggested trick, to keep things under control: instead of launching it using the standard javaw.exe virtual machine, I make a copy of javaw with a specific name,  and use a short-cut to launch the Jar - it makes easier check what this - and all the others small java apps that I wrote, each is created through a JW[nameApp].exe copy of javaw - really do in my computer. Opening the task manager, each different copy is identifiable by its name , which makes easy kills what misbehave, or runn¡ng an analysis on it using Process hacker.

If you do not allow it to use TCP, every call will open a new instance of the application (once upon a time, I used a .lock file system, but it was prone to jamming).

If you authorize it in the firewall, only one instance may run at each time (which is plenty enough, really).      

The 32 bit jar is compiled against Java 1.7.

The 64 bits version is compiled against Java 1.8.

Commands:


Direct interface with a mouse or a pen on the image frame:

The left slider is the zoom.

The right and bottom sliders behave like scrollbars (and should disappear when not in use).

To move the picture inside its frame, pick it with the mouse below the file name area

To drag the whole picture frame, either pick it on the  top (where is the name of the file),  or click the right button of the mouse while moving.

Theoretically, clicking the central button should set it in "zoom" MODE, but I have no mouses at the moment, and my Wacom driver is a bit of a prick, so I haven't tested it.

All these actions are mirrored on the "Remote Mouse" area of the admin window - on it, it also work using shift (drag the highlited image frame) and ctrl (UP-down: image zoom; left-right: changes the size of the frame.)

Also, the image frames can be moved by selecting one in the admin frame (keys A and Z to chose the selected frame) and using the keyboard arrows (shift makes the movement faster, ctrl makes the frames jump monitor)

Odd functions: in multi-monitor systems, each picture shows also a "Jump to next screen" button in the right upper corner, just aside its _ (hide) button.
Also, for multi-monitors set-ups, there is the option (in the settings) "Crossing screen boundaries is unsafe".

I added these because, I discovered, when you have a multi-monitor set-up with more than one graphic board, when you cross between monitors controlled by different boards,
Java applications can and usually freeze (this happens also with the DisplayLink usb... as far as I can understand, it is some bug, but where? in my work, in the Java Swing framework, in my computers...)


If  "Crossing screen boundaries is unsafe" is set, the Jump Screen buttons ( on the frames, or in the management table) become the only mode to move the frames ( and the admin window)
from one monitor to the other (or the "Remote Mouse", which makes them "Jump" to the screen the mouse has entered).



Adding images to the sets can be done in four ways of increasing simplicity:

 Using an "Add Image" button ( or the Add Image function of the Tray ) - it is the most unhelpful way.

 Passing a set of paths to files (i.e. using a Windows "Send to" feature, or similar)

 Copy-pasting the image.

 Telling it to continuously "Grab The clipboard" (again, on the Admin frame or in the Tray pop-up menu) - every time one copies an image, it will automatically build it in a frame.

(Both copy-pastes may not work, depending on how the app you do the copy in classifies the image data; It works wondrously with my Firefox and Manga Studio, it fails with windows image viewer. )

Note: over time, I shall add keyboards short-cuts for every action... configurables? Aaagh

 
The Jar can be found here:

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/mt9imvpozd4brdm/AABB3Bes3ZGcWW0IcAJedTYJa?dl=0

that is part of my contribution to Simtiqitude that can be found in:
 

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/ul13bv7xy86pxkg/AACuTFcLK-JcTZDFOFC86CVMa?dl=0


For those of us that miss the possibility to have a hierarchy of options under the "Send to" feature in windows, I added my implementation of a structured system for it.

It is still in Java (1,7 ? I think), and it does call itself through TCP (it's faster than using files, and I do not have to keep writing over the same spots in my SSD) so that, after the first time, it is very fast (note to self: do not cross-monitors with this).  

Finally, to make people envy my genius,

Muahahaha

[attachment=1]

Because of not only of plywood is Dabotz the master...


10  Screen Tablet malarky / Build Logs / Re: Ribbitiq - trying not to break everything. on: March 09, 2017, 09:47:28 PM
Let me know something about the Classic Pen .

I have a Intuos 4 Grip pen  - my first build, that I still use at night, was a "TabletMod L" derivative, witn an Intuos 4  large and a 15.4" AUO panel - and I hate it.

Not only the form of it, but also the fact that I feel the tip of it fitting a bit more loosely than in the Intuos 2 Pens (which already are not a Rotring RapidoGraph), and its pressure sensor not only is not very linear, it tends to "weaken up" after half an hour or so.

That, and the prices, are the factors that decided me to stick with the Intuos 2 (that I bought just to make a try for something with better colours, to use at night - it's... complicated) till I can.

I may opt for an Intuos 3 (the inch of screen or so that the Intuos 2 12x18 does not cover are a bit of a bother)... some day.

I've seen that newer Wacoms have 8092 pressure levels.

I hope that they got them more linear, because if they are like my I4 Grip Pen, I see no real improvement in more precision (which is not the same as accuracy, by the way - see the 5080 lpi - 0.005 mm precision - vs the 0.5 mm accuracy of the tablets beyond the Intuos 2... by the way, for a DiY-tiq spatial accuracy is as important as the precision, or more).  

How does feel, the I4 classic pen?
11  Screen Tablet malarky / Build Logs / Re: Ribbitiq - trying not to break everything. on: March 04, 2017, 02:49:30 PM
By geometry, I simply men the way you lay the stuff in the build, or details in the frame of the LCD.

Check that the Wacom board and its back metal pate  are plane and at the right distance one from each other (without the back metal plate, the reading height goes down significantly, and I have read somewhere here that some managed to augment it in their bit, by carefully augmenting the distance between the plate and the antennas board).
  
I realize that it is hardly going to be your case, as you were testing it "bare", but I have taken this habit of not moving the LCD, unless I have reassembled it enough that it is safe to handle without an excessive care.

In the case of my last build, I carved out the centre of the LCD backplate and remounted the remaining frame. It made my stripped LD almost as solid as it originally was, but it also meant that I conserved the half mm ridge that it has all around.

Then I connected it with the TCon board, so that those precious FFC didn't have to fear any mechanical stress. using two stainless steel flanges - and I added a couple of mm there.

Then lose another couple in the way the Wacom sat inside the case.

In the end, the first test run was terrible, because it looked like the new screen (which is 3 mm thinner than the old one, the glorious HP LE2201) gave me a worse reading height and more false clicks.

Then, I realized - and fixed - those small mistakes, and the end result is nice enough.

As far as how come nobody outside Wacom seems to be able to do a decent self-calibrating driver, it would just be really nice if they added a manual calibration interface for the ones like us.

Our panels may not be the same, but are still more similar that the ones in the IPS225v (which use a flat ffc instead of single cable, to power the led).

Also, being engineers a shy race averse to changing things just because, I would expect them to share as much characteristics as possible (for example, the LVDS timing characteristics).

On the other hands, my builds use Intuos 2 which, I suspect, where designed with more tolerance for EMF interference, and for going behind much thicker screens.

I never had to contact the admin or mods in this forum, so I have no idea...
12  Screen Tablet malarky / Build Logs / Re: Ribbitiq - trying not to break everything. on: February 27, 2017, 02:56:26 PM
Calibration is often the weakest point of the "would-be Cintiqs" - none seems to work all that well.

Note that with a DIY, it is going to be a lot less easier - it is not the driver that does it for you but, as it is NOT it doing the work (in some half-botched way), you can finesse it over time.

The panel looks a lot like the one in the LG IPS224v that I used to overhaul my second build, but I am perplexed from the lack of reading height.

None of my builds (the four of them that I have at home...  I know, that's called mania; when I see a tablet and a screen, I feel this urge to rape the second on top of the first) has less than three mm of reading height above its glass cover (mostly, 3 mm thick), and they comprehend an unopened Intuos 4, with a laptop panel and a 2mm glass.

Check well the geometry of the assembly - with a build that big, it is very easy to "lose" mm of height, more so in this preliminary stage, that can be recovered with a careful final construction.
13  Screen Tablet malarky / Build Logs / Re: Here comes UBiQ 2 on: February 27, 2017, 04:32:49 AM
Fast update...

Elegant as it was, the big glass panel and its overhangs proved too fragile. After I broke it a second time, I decided to limit the glass area to the bare minimum... and brought back the duct tape. In turn, it got me to recuperate some more tenth of mm, which helps - maybe more by the reduction of parallax than an improvement of the pen precision (though, I feel this has improved, too).

I left open the areas of the perimeter frame where the flanges reach to it.

The resulting chimney effect - I never draw keeping it ,ore horizontal than 45º - seems to  be enough to cool down a bit the thing.

Given how much I use it (being very steady, it makes faster ), if I ever were to rebuild the case, I would directly integrate the 9.7" Miniq on the right, so that both screens are under the same glass... given the fact that its digitiser and the screen, together, are some 7 mm thick whereas the main panel is 10 mm. it would be easy to overlap them and get the two screens at some 5 cm of distance ( not less, alas), the God of E.M.I permitting it (or a judicious use of shielding... I think that in his case it could help).

As a final note...

"In truth I shall say: a better screen and a nicer pen feel better than a newer digitizer."


I should try to lay my hands on an Intuos 4 "classic pen", but one hundred bucks is a bit too much for a curiosity.

For now, I still feel that the design had progressed (the Intuos 4 is very beautiful, with its OLED labels for the buttons) but user experience - for me - did so much, much less.


Final note: Wacom Driver 6.1.7-3 handle both the Intuos 2 and the Intuos 4 handsomely, if anybody else has a mixed bag Intuoses. Also, I have seen that  the same should do, in Windows 7 and beyond, Driver version 6.3.6-3




14  Screen Tablet malarky / Useful Links / Re: Infra red touch bar on: December 15, 2016, 12:37:38 PM
Not exactly a script - you'd have to write a "filter" that "disconnects" the touch tracking when... and here comes the fun part.

Disconnect the touch sensor when the pen "hits" the surface?

If you use Lazy Nezumi, the result would be that, when you touch the surface, the cursor "jumps" from where you were changing settings to where you are drawing, likely adding a straight line in the drawing.

If you decide that the touch screen "disengage" on pen hovering over the drawing area, to use the touch you have to stop, raising the pen a cm before going back.

Now, with any decent set-up (not only a "true" Cintiq, but even just my ungodly wireless Numpad + Device dependent macros) you can keep hammering your hot-keys WHILE you draw...

For example, changing the reference size of the brush in between strokes.

And this is the reason why a lot of those that tried it (or worse, have bought a Wacom that has it) decided to forgot the whole touch function, while they draw.

It may be useful when you are not drawing, maybe...

But what represents a near-comfortable work-flow on a 10'' (using your fingers to interact with the GUI) becomes an hassle if you use it on, say, a 22".





15  Screen Tablet malarky / Gallery of Cool / Re: Drawings made with UBiQ (Intuos 2 12x18, LG IPS224v - minor jitter) on: November 07, 2016, 09:06:38 PM
These are still produced with the "Old" Ubiq...






I am not sure that I will open a different thread for the "revision" of my workhorse, the mighty UBiQ 2, as in many way it feel so much similar to the old machine (it is the same intuos 2, inside)...  
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