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1  Screen Tablet malarky / Heyaaaalpppp / Re: ExpressKey Remote with old wacom drivers on: October 13, 2017, 11:04:09 AM
As far as I know, the last Wacom driver that works with the Intuos 2 is the 6.2.0_w5, however I do not think that it supports the ExpressKey remote, which is a shame because it is really a nice piece of hardware and I know it does not work with my Intuos 4.

You can try and look if they released a newer driver for the Intuos 2, in which case, let me know.

Personally, to "emulate" the ExpressKey, I use a wireless numeric pad with "function stickers" on the keys https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8DSNOz1PxNE&t=452s
in conjunction with a "daemon" that changes its configuration files depending onn the active windows executable.

Pretty crude, no display and you must find a work to get it to keep position once the rubber pads at its back fall off (the grease from the hand palm "sneaked up" and dissolved the glue, in a couople of months - I am using a counterweighted parallelogram, reminiscent of some old technical drafting machines ), but it works...


P.S. would you mind publish a photo of your finished build? When I made my first Intuos 2 XL build, I didn't realize that your machine was a functional one until after I bought a first screen... you managed to get it working, and never posted a shot of the completed thing.
2  Screen Tablet malarky / Monitors / Re: Monitors/Laptops screens; That jitter and that don't!! on: October 09, 2017, 12:37:39 PM
I finally decided to buy a colorimeter, calibrated and profiled all of my monitors ( next time, Spyder [1-5] PRO is to be preferred, as it supports multi monitor, while the "Express" goes out of his way to avoid you using a different version of the profile it create for each monitors).

Not sure if the colorimeter itself has not some instrumental derive, as they all seems a bit "orange" now... maybe I was just used to screens pushing out a bit too much blue (*).

UbiQ2 and UBiQ3 ( LG IPS224v, LG 20MP48a ) have virtually the same profile, and are very similar to the Dell 19" that I thought to use as "repeater" in case UBiQ2 was  worse.

The LP097x02 SLEA (from the Ipad 1 - 2 ) of  the MiniQ gets spanked in a horrible way (even by the stegosaurus of my monitors, the IBM 9493 I tried to use  for an A4 build, that still manages a 77% of sRGB and a 59% of AdobeRGB against MiniQ 68%-50%... I forgot to take a shot of that, my bad).  





Further enquiries have led me to discover that these colorimeters are calibrated to emulate light from the Sun - at 6500 k - reflected by paper, as their purpose it to get the screens a bit closer to how printed photos would be seen in daylight, whereas most LCD screens are natively set to work with a colder hue - so that the profiled screens produce a "warmer" tone is simply to be expected.

3  Screen Tablet malarky / Gallery of Cool / Re: Drawings made with UBiQ2 (Intuos 2 12x18, LG IPS224v - very minor jittering) on: October 08, 2017, 08:37:05 PM
I really like your drawing style; I particularly like the last picture of john's spirit.

Wowser from me as well.  Nicely done.

Thanks. In effect, building my "...IQ"s helped me more than a bit, as I have not the steadiest hand on the planet, and using detached tablets  was a bother when doing this kind of drawings.

Meshing screen and tablet together was more or less "what the doctor orders".

Only thing, If I had bought an Intuo 4 XL instead of the L that I got, I would probably have built only one of these things, instead of five...
4  Screen Tablet malarky / Gallery of Cool / Re: Drawings made with UBiQ2 (Intuos 2 12x18, LG IPS224v - very minor jittering) on: October 02, 2017, 10:28:21 PM
I am pretty happy of this one...

[attachment=1]
5  Screen Tablet malarky / Heyaaaalpppp / Re: dropped 21UX 2nd gen not responding to stylus. on: September 27, 2017, 12:12:11 PM
You can try to see if there is polycarbonate available in your area, or going for some 2 mm thick glass.

If you opt for glass, you'll have to be careful because usually, in that thickness you can't usually find it tempered... at the appearance of any crack whatsoever, you'll have to replace it, as cracks -no matter how small on a border - always expand in unpredictable ways, in non-tempered glass.

The polycarbonate can be much more expensive than glass (by a factor 15 at least, as it costs more than acrylic - and that already costs almost ten times glass) , but it can also be much clearer and almost as resistant.  Scratch resistance would also be good, much better than acrylic, though adding a screen-protector would still be a good idea, as it would also give you some texture.

Personally I love to draw on glass - I used to place a glass plate even over my first tablet, a Graphire 4"x5" - but that is a perversion of mines.  
6  Screen Tablet malarky / Gallery of Cool / Re: Drawings made with UBiQ2 (Intuos 2 12x18, LG IPS224v - very minor jittering) on: September 25, 2017, 02:24:45 AM
[attachment=1]
7  Screen Tablet malarky / Gallery of Cool / Re: Drawings made with UBiQ2 (Intuos 2 12x18, LG IPS224v - very minor jittering) on: September 25, 2017, 02:18:04 AM
[attachment=1]
8  Screen Tablet malarky / Gallery of Cool / Drawings made with UBiQ2 (Intuos 2 12x18, LG IPS224v - very minor jittering) on: September 25, 2017, 02:16:47 AM
UBiQ 2 is a re-work of my first Intuos2 XL build, with a 21.5" full HD LED IPS screen replacing the aboriginal 22" WXGA CCFL of the first version.


Its build log is to be found at http://forum.bongofish.co.uk/index.php?topic=2588.0

And these are some of the drawings I made with it...

[attachment=1]
9  Screen Tablet malarky / Build Logs / Re: Serenitiq 2 - Wacom Intuos 4 L + Rozsnyo DP2MBPR controller + LTN154YL01 on: August 16, 2017, 09:39:15 PM
Note on FCC ID - as far as I can tell, Wacom is identified by an "applicant id" HV4 -
as a matter of fact, all wacom authorization requests can be found here:

https://fccid.io/HV4

Then, the ID of the single product is often, simply, obtained by adding the Wacom  model ID, removing the hyphens.

Thus the Cintiq 21UX - model DTK2100 - has simply the  FCC ID HV4DTK2100

The tablet doesn't always follow the schema...

The Intuos 2 seems to be simply the HV4XD, for example.


 
10  Screen Tablet malarky / Build Logs / Re: Intuos4 XL (x2) 40" 4K or 27" Apple Display on: July 31, 2017, 04:29:03 PM
I would counsel going with the 27...

Builds with screen much bigger than the tablet active area (on all sides) tend to be remarkably jitter-free, as the T-Con board and the discontinuity added by the LCD borders can be kept out of the way.

http://forum.bongofish.co.uk/index.php?topic=2218.0 (this uses an Intuos 4)

http://forum.bongofish.co.uk/index.php?topic=2458.0 (this uses an Intuos 2)

On the other hand, as Ertew notes, the best cover for a 40" 4k is using the two digitizer placed verticals, with a "respect band" between their active areas (even in the best case scenario, you can't go below the width of one "digitizer border" of distance between the two, by overlapping a pcb to the other, with in the middle a grounded metal strip to intercept the mutual interferences; in the worse case, the "side band" interferences are strong enough that not only no overlap of the PCBs is possible, but rather the boards must be kept completely separated).

In this configuration, the screen is only slightly taller than the boards active areas ( by half an inch), which means that the T-Con board would lay directly above some the digitizer antennas, who would pick up its em fields (and RF-Cage would be needed almost for sure) and -thus - add jitter.

The "dead area" in the middle is not avoidable, and means that one must chose one of the two sides as "drawing area", and leave the other for palettes and auxiliary windows.

Now, I use two builds in a similar way -  a slightly jittery 21.5" as main drawing board, and a pretty precise 9.7" on its right side as palette screen.

The two screens are separated by about 6 cm of distance  (2,5") -  and it is already a bit of a bother.

More importantly, even if I sometimes desire to place them together in a single case, the truth is that I still rather have the small one able to be tilt in my direction, and so reduce perspective aberration and parallax when my head is above the drawing screen, rather than a more elegant, flusher (but, actually, less functional) solution.

- Truth is, it already is a bit distant from my drawing station as it is.

In a 40" with digitizers as near as possible, the situation would be similar but there also would be no way to tilt half of the screen in the user's direction.    

As for placing the two digitizers near the LCD borders, with only one big "dead area" in centre...

if 2" are already a bother, 10" would be unbearable.

In conclusion, while the 40" would look amazing, I am not sure that drawing on it would be all that fun.

Note: edited for slight orthography and language fixes.
11  Screen Tablet malarky / Build Logs / Re: Unneeded-IQ on: July 25, 2017, 11:59:22 PM
In effect, I learned something.

Yesterday, I managed to replace the CCFLs in my old Flatron W1934s With led in an hour
(much simpler than the IBM...the "all-integrated" PSU-CCFL driver board has the CCFL Driver part separated from the rest, and connected with three jumpers - 13.4 V power, On/off, DIM - and the common ground).

Alas, I also damaged the cable connecting the buttons to the main board (I forgot to take the buttons board out, before lifting the half-dismounted monitor, and it fell through my hands) so I will have to try to replace it (8 1 mm pitch solders... I am dumb).
12  Screen Tablet malarky / Build Logs / Re: UbiQ 3 on: July 25, 2017, 11:40:38 PM
It only has issues around a relatively massive inductance that is on the T-Con board, at about  three cm from the screen border, that interferes with the vertical antennas that read the X position in the 10 cm to the right of the screen and also adds plenty of false clicks.

If I am right and that is, indeed, the main culprit... alas, I have nowhere near the soldering skills to de-solder and safely moving it out of the way, and I am not sure  that improving the RF cage would completely tame it


(the one that I made is of 0.5 mm thick low-carbon iron, from the carved-out back of the IPS224-v in the UBiQ2. It is true that I suspect that replacing it with one wider, so that the "closure" of its magnetic field happens beyond the active area, could improve things... if only had I thought it before cutting the RF cage sheet metal).


In the middle of the screen, jitter is down to a pixel, so a smart disposition of the GUI elements makes it very usable.

In reality, the main difference with the "2" (that is more jittery, in the middle) is that the swinging arm support is a bit too good at moving around, whereas "2" is now part of a whole drawing table and doesn't move at all.

On one side, drawing sketches on the sofa while listening to the television is pretty relaxing.

On the other, the screen position is just too wobbly to do the kind of fine, sweeping arm movements that "2" allows and, as a result, when drawing on the "3" I tend to use thicker lines.  


An "UBiQ 4"?

Alas, I think that the only ways "up" would be passing to the Intuos 3, to cover a whole 21.5" (if the board has a size comparable to the Intuos 2, then I could simply swap one for the other in the "2"), or going for higher resolution screens.

For the time being, both are beyond my budget and my needs.

Eventually, I could try to "restore" the "Cabinetiq" replacing the AUO with a Retina screen, but...  I really like to draw big - it is one of the reasons why I placed the "Mini-q" on the side of the "2", so that all of the no-jittery area was free for drawing, and finicky GUI elements were in the stablest of my builds -.

"UBiQ 3" 's  19.5" (with no "secondary") is really the minimum, for me.

(I remember when Cabinetiq's 15.4" seemed great to me... for a while, some time ago, I was back at using it, and it felt just too little, hence the birth of "3".)

On the other side, going for a bigger screen with a multi-digitizer set-up... doesn't look too interesting.

It can be done, but the "dead areas" to be left would be pretty annoying.

[Note: i edited this post to try and make it a bit clearer. I hope that I managed it.]
13  Screen Tablet malarky / Heyaaaalpppp / Re: Laptop screen to wacom cintiqfor drawing on: July 21, 2017, 01:02:40 AM
Is it just a point, or a whole vertical band?

If it is a point, the source of the noise probably is the circuitry inside the LCD, and little can be done aside trying to see if changing the refresh rate does ameliorate it.

If it is a vertical band in which you have horizontal jitter, then the culprit is inside the t-con board (possibly, an inductance - a coil; my last build has one, three cm from the right border of the t-con, and it makes for horrible jitter and false clicks) and you can try to shield it, building an RF cage all around the T-Con board.

(if possible, extends its width so that the margins of the cage lay beyond the limits of the tablet active area... I suspect that where the cage ends, the EM field bends and it "couples" with the digitizer antennas, so going wider could help avoid my meddlesome "vertical border crazies")
14  Screen Tablet malarky / Build Logs / Re: Unneeded-IQ on: July 11, 2017, 01:09:54 AM
If I see correctly, DVI connector miss many pins. This must be DVI-A input plus some funny pins for PnP, monitor ID and hot-plug detection. Definitely no digital input.

Nice work with backlight. If I see correctly, this screen are designed to easily swap backlight elements.

P.S. linked video doesn't work.

I tried the link, and it works for me.

The back-light replacement is very easy, in this LCD - one unscrews the CCFL assembly, and they require a very modicum force to slid out of the Panel- no need to open all up, and expose the various layers inside the lightbox or the LCD.

The back metal plate, too, was attached to the internal plastic frame and could be removed without opening the panel.

Also, the assemblies holding the CCFL are pretty sturdy  - to take out the lamps and glue the led strips in their place ( with a non-conductive, transparent "mass" glue resembling a sticky silicone that I use often as "DIY" rubber) was maybe half an hour of work.

At full power, the LED driver had an inductor that heated up quite a bit - I glued a 4x4 cm piece of aluminium (a radiating surface from a scrapped PSU) on top of it, and it cools it down nicely.

The main issue with this screen was the Hirose connector: it is beyond my ability to jury-rig a longer extension for that, and the cable inside the monitor is just too short to place the main board in any sensible position.

Combined with the fact that both the comlumns driver and the rows driver boards interfere with the Intuos, requiring two RF cages, it made the project simply too much hassle, for little gain.

However, I mounted the monitor back together (if I can, I always try to keep things reversible till the final build), and I  am happy to say that, for the moment, it works flawlessly - the LEDs are a bit too spaced, and it shows on blacks in the cm or so above the LED strips, but I think it is acceptable.
15  Screen Tablet malarky / Build Logs / Re: Unneeded-IQ on: July 07, 2017, 10:14:52 PM
Waiting for the OPAmps (and my fortitude to re-group), I tried to solder an extension for the Hirose DF9 etc... No way in hell I can manage 82 solders on pins with 1 mm pitch.

I am stuck with the original, ridiculously short cable.

As a result, the relative position of LCD vs The board is all but fixed... two cm to wiggle around, or so. Also, the connector is ridiculously prone to unlatch on his own (also, the cable is as rigid as I would like my nether parts to be, which definitely does not help).

Never ever again will I consider using a panel with it...

I have decided to place the screen "vertical", to be a the middle of the finished build, which has led me to some unfortunate discoveries...

This allows me to place the monitor main board, the power and video inputs board  and the Intuos secondary board in the same underside recess, and keep the front relatively
thin (relatively is the main word, here... if I guess correctly, and the XD-0912 is similar to the XD-0608, a build with one of them and a modern LAptop LCD can be as thichk as 1.5 cm; this one at minimum is going to be 32 mm.)

My 12"x18" build is 61x43 cm (it could be trimmed town to 59.5x40.5, simply avoiding the second order of side walls that I added to have the width for the side screw threads.

If I decided to go on, this 15" (12"x9") was going to be 43 cm tall, for... 48 cm wide. Much bigger than I expected or desired. 

Also, having it open and all, I was finally able to do some tests and, in the end...

Both the column rows driver boards interfere with the tablet, and even with these out of the way, the build closes on par with the old "UBiq" center area, at which point... I may be better served building a smaller case for that, wide as the screen only... it would have a similar final footprint, a bigger drawable Area (about 1100x1050 px, vs 1024x768, or 16" vs 15").

A video of the test https://youtu.be/CYRuOCooNEI

A bummer, but I learnt how to replace CCFL with LEDs, at least. 

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