test1
June 25, 2017, 01:05:51 AM *
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
News: You may have to login twice the first time,  but we don't know why - Erm I mean it's a security thing yeah that's it - security.
 
  Home Help Search Login Register  
  Show Posts
Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 14
1  Screen Tablet malarky / Build Logs / Re: Unneeded-IQ on: June 24, 2017, 09:46:32 AM
Thanks again, Ertew. I see no converter on the power board, though I still have to un-mount it so it could well be on the other side(for the moment, I have no access to my usual working table, so I will have to shelf this project for a little while)...

More than a bit of a Bummer, for me.

---

Yes, I already supposed that I had to build some Analog to PWM converter.

I found a schema, on-line, that should do the trick and, with a small adaptation, being able to provide a tunable frequency

[attachment=1]

(just using a variable resistor for R4 should allow a certain degree of tune, but I'll look it better when I have a bit of time to install a SPICE and play... if I remember my electrics well, that RC time constant is way too low, off by a couple of magnitudes).


2  Screen Tablet malarky / Build Logs / Re: Unneeded-IQ on: June 23, 2017, 07:17:27 PM
Checked the line...

Output is

 0.1 V   with brightness at 100%

 5 V with brighness at 0%

I fear that it is not a PWM , but a direct analog output, as the LED board doesn't seem to respond much to the brightness control.

(but it heats up less the LED, so, maybe it's just that my etes do not see the difference)

If it is an analog, I suppose I could wip up an analog-PWM converter with a capacitor, a resistor, a diode and the usual double op-ampli chip... I should really need some kind of signal analyzer.   
3  Screen Tablet malarky / Build Logs / Re: Unneeded-IQ on: June 22, 2017, 11:50:44 PM
Thanks, Ertew... bummer for the analog-only input.  Why on Earth did they decide to have a DVI connector there, instead of a classic D-Sub, escapes me.

I will check page 40, thanks.

... oh, it i the line with the blue cable (the only one different, all the others are grey)

I feel more than a bit dumb.

Being able to dim the brightness will be very nice, as at full power it is almost too bright and heats up quite a bit.

4  Screen Tablet malarky / Build Logs / Unneeded-IQ on: June 22, 2017, 02:56:08 PM
A little time ago, I ceded to a temptation - an Intuos 2 12x12 USB, for 1euro (+10 of shipping fees).

The guy selling it wasn't sure it worked, it lacked a button (not really... just that odd cover that is in place of a Reset button used in some iteration of the serial connection tablets) and had no pen, but the light went up when attached to the usb, and the computer "saw" it.

Being educated in the ways of Bongofishism, I gambled on it having nothing more than marks and scruffs.

For a while, it has sat around in my drawing place, waiting for the future.

Then, a month or so, I was struck by yet another attack of Cintiquism, and went on ebay for a cheap 15" with external power brick - possibly with DVI connection.

The few I saw asked too much money, for my taste (this would be my sixth build, after all), but I finally saw an IBM 9493-ag1 for 25 Euros, shipping included.

[attachment=1]

I checked its service manual, found on-line ( https://www.manualslib.com/manual/963035/Ibm-9493-Aw1.html ) , and saw that it had an internal (hidden below a cover) DVI input socket, that went to the outside through a DVI to D-Sub (VGA) cable.

It also had replaceable CCFL lamps (which were likely in need to be replaced, as this is a business monitor and must have logged in 8 hours a day since the day it was bought).

Alas, I didn't peruse the manual long enough, or I would have seen that the LCD is a LG LM151X2-F2MN,  attached to the monitor module through a Hirose DF9-41p connector, and a whole twelve cm or so  (say, 5" in imperial units) of cable.

I so hoped it would be a 30 lines LVDS on a 1mm pitch FFC (like in the three LG monitors that I have opened).   

[attachment=6]

That is going to bite my ass...

Also, it is a 6 bit LCD (whoops - this wasn't going to be a "main battle Cintiq", anyway, just another "fast selection" screen, if it is not too messy, jitterwise - also, I hope that IBM did a good job with dithering, in the monitor firmware).

It arrived in a couple of days, and I immediately realized that the CCFL were - if not almost dead - very well ripe.

It took a minute or so to reach full brightness, on switch-on, and it wasn't much bright, anyway

I decided to invest some more 9 $ to buy one of those "Upgrade to LED" kits, before opening up the screen.

I am sorry that I did not take pictures of the disassembly of the monitor (extremely well put together... it has more screws and RF cage than those present in all the monitors I dismounted to date), but it is actually detailed in the service manual (so, it would be a a bit redundant).

When I reached finally inside the monitor, I saw the damn "Hirose on a short leash" connection, then saw that the back metal plate of the LCD was simply attached to a white plastic frame, and could be removed without opening the LCD panel (Good).

The CCFL are in pretty sturdy assemblies with a steel beam-channel containing them, and slide in-out of the panel pretty easily - so I could replace them with the LED bars, in a matter of an hour or so, ONCE I understood which cables are what.

In fact, instead of the 4 cables I expected, the inverter assembly - a Samsung LG1501 - was connected to the monitor's module with a ten pin connector, and ten individual lines (note: even if on my monitor, a permanent marker line marked the monitor module side, it doesn't matter if one's inverts the head or tail of the ten-lines, as they are flipped in the travel from one side to another)

Initially, I was perplexed, however a couple of continuity tests at monitor unplugged from the power grid and some final corroboration with it switched on and off, gave this pretty simple pin-out

     +5V       What the hell are these for?
     +5V

     0V - GND
     0V - GND
    
     +4.9 V (on) / 0V (off )  -  enable , or enable+d¡m? I failed to see any difference in the value, though, when I dimmed down the brightness

     -0.1  V (Huh??)

     0V - GND
     0V - GND
 
     24V
     24V

Notable miss: which is the damn dim line? No idea.

I removed the LCD backplate; probably, sanding/filing down the plastic sprockets that hold it in place could lower its height 1-1.5 mm.

However, I saw something that just a couple of years ago would have been a snafu, for me - it has two PCBs, one folded back for the column driver, a more components heavy one for the row driver, connected by a 20 lines, 0.5mm pitch flexible PCB.

[attachment=2]

I bought and extender, from an Italian seller, and some 15cm (note: it is a bit tight; it would be better some ten cm, or so, more) of the correspondent FFC.

Once I got the extender and the FFC, I folded out the main PCB, and extended the lines of one CCFL, to see if this mod works.


It does.

[attachment=3]

[attachment=4]

(Note that, at full brightness, Photoshop retouch wasn't needed to see around the screen)

Yesterday I received the LED kit, and I proceeded to replace the CCFL.

[attachment=5]
(Retouched with Photoshop; even this way, the "aura" of the screen, with the LED, is well visible.)

It works as expected, at least twice as bright as before, but at the moment I have no dimming whatsoever.

Someone has any idea / suggestion?  
  
5  Screen Tablet malarky / Heyaaaalpppp / Re: Laptop screen to wacom cintiqfor drawing on: June 21, 2017, 12:51:32 PM
Note... I checked the TCon heats up, on my builds too.

I wouldn't be too worried about it, apart that it becomes a mess to work on them when the weather is warm.


Pens and screen borders is often a bit of a mess... typically, one must accept that the pen will "go away" in the area near the horizontal or vertical border of the tablet.

The best you can do is to calibrate it so that the pen is reasonably accurate in the widest possible area... not being able to go on the borders complicates a tiny bit the calibration.

Check the Simtiq planner   ( https://www.dropbox.com/s/676vr2qyxeuhab2/simtiq_planner.html?dl=1 ) to have an idea of the initial values.

Given the data of your screen, you should reduce the projection on the screen some 60 pixeels for each side (so, left, 60, right 1860) and see how it goes  from there.

(in your case, you have to change the screen projection, not the tablet area, to tune the X axis )



6  Screen Tablet malarky / Heyaaaalpppp / Re: Laptop screen to wacom cintiqfor drawing on: June 20, 2017, 12:22:03 AM
For the LCD, it depends on the kind of modifications you had to do to it to let the pens signal go through.

If you had to eliminate stuff that could act as an heat-sink, it's actual temperature is probably higher than the original (and optimal), so adding an heat-sink for the led strip could be a good idea.

If it is hot the TCon-Board... are you sure the Converter board is supplying the right voltage to the panel?

On the side of the converter board, I  am a bit more dubious... but, then again, I never checked the temperature of the controller boards in my builds (of the 5, three were actual desktop monitors, so compatibility among the various parts was a given).

I never noticed them to get "very hot" - using  thermometer to get a temperature could give some hard facts on which guess - , though.
7  Screen Tablet malarky / Heyaaaalpppp / Re: Laptop screen to wacom cintiqfor drawing on: June 19, 2017, 11:20:14 PM
A 15.6" is a 16:9 LCD which is wider than the active area of an Intuos 4 L, yet shorter than it is... it is a particularly complex situation because you need to calibrate the Table AND the projection on the screen.

My biggest builds are in the same situation, so this may help you...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rRXBb_hafAY

To build the thing, you can try to place it so that cursor and pen coincide at the centre, then work on one dimension (for example, height, by reducing the tablet active area), then the other (width, you'll have to reduce the projection on screen), then again on the first...

I suggest to place things so that they touch on the middle is, just to help you getting started.

You may revise the build to leave what little active area is free all on one side (because, if you have a screen that is placed where the projection of that "excess" area is, the pen will be able to reach it) but, as you are getting sizes, let it for after (once you got how to calibrate the build - fist time took me 30 minutes, now I do it in a couple of minutes or so).

I usually leave "all on top" -  I keep a small screen above my main drawing machine, where I leave VLC playing some series... I have enough "excess pen area" to go up and click the controls and the seek bar of VLC at full screen.

The most important thing, anyway, is to have screen and digitizer as parallel as possible...

As for the warmth, it is a common problem...If the screen has the LCD strip on only one side, you may decide to leave it in a position that is less bothering;

The Glass is a less than spectacular heat transmitter, so it may help a little, as it could help having an heat-sink of some kind - a plate touching the LCD at/under/around the LED strip, for example... as heat-sink, a simple tape is probably not enough, and something thicker should be better.

Some people also adds little fans ( a computer fan uses the same 12 V most controller boards eat) in an effort to have an air flux to cool things.

Personally, I do not like the added noise, so I avoid them (though, for my UBiQ 2 it would be  - maybe - better to add one, maybe heat-activated)

The cursor does not follow the pen in some spots... if the pen is lost on a vertical band, it may means that there is an inductive coil in the T-Con board at the bottom of the LCD.

Try to raise (carefully! ) the board a bit away from the Intuos (as the ribbons glued to it  and the LCD are the most delicate thing and impossible to fix, getting it more than a couple of cm away - and 45º inclined on the horizontal - is going to be impossible, but that much may be more than enough) .

If you see improvements, with the board "inclined away", then it is probable that building an RF cage enclosing that board could help things.

In case I suggest to build such cage as wide as the area occupied by the vertical antenna lines (which, by the way, are what measures the horizontal  - x axis -position ), not just enough to enclose the board (which is usually quite some cm less).

(I suspect that the fact I did limit mines just to that is the reason why all my builds - that needed that cage - "fritz" at the two vertical borders... The cage acts as a torus antenna, whose field bend in a emi-sphere at the extremes, and the inclined-horizontal field lines there couples with the vertical antennas, making difficult to read the X-Axis position).
8  Screen Tablet malarky / Heyaaaalpppp / Re: Laptop screen to wacom cintiqfor drawing on: June 18, 2017, 08:15:28 PM
Aluminium (or copper) tape, is used most often to  try and build some RF shielding in LCD-Over-Intuos builds, more than anything else. In that use, anyway, it is often a good idea to use it to enclose some non-conductive plastic bag (or some construction akin to it).

A Ertew says, to fix things  non-conductive normal - or double sided - duct tape is better.
9  Screen Tablet malarky / Heyaaaalpppp / Re: Laptop screen to wacom cintiqfor drawing on: June 15, 2017, 01:36:55 PM
If the panel is thin enough, you may not have to disassemble the intuos at all...

I used a build, for a year or so, which was simply a laptop panel with a 2 mm thick glass cover, simply laid above an untouched Intuos4 large.

(It was based on DonShole's TabletMod enclosure specifications - you can find some hints either on the tabletmod site, or on the Ponoko Market page that sells the designs - for laser cut).


I still had some 5 mm of "free air" - only issues, the panel is dim, has narrow viewing angles and lacks colour saturation and contrast.

So, I'd say, strip the panel, place it above the tablet, and see how it goes (note, usually it is a good idea to connect the ground points of the panel with the back plate of the Intuos but, in alternative, one can simply connect it to the USB Gnd line... as the I$ has miniUSB sockets, you can simply  modify a 3$ cable)...

You can always dismantle the Intuos4 (which has its share of advanced features, like those OLED displays and the Touch Ring - a bit finicky, that ) later.

 
10  Screen Tablet malarky / Successful builds! / Re: Intuos5+15inch retina panel on: June 13, 2017, 12:17:37 AM
Medium => 10"
Large => 15"
Extra large => 21.5/22"

This is a 15" (more precisely, 15.4) so it is an Intuos Large.
11  Screen Tablet malarky / Tutorials and useful knowledge / Re: Wacom Sensor Board Info on: June 10, 2017, 12:43:47 AM
Kind of - however, you will have to find-build an adapter for the digitizer to be connected to a computer.

On digitizers that use a usb connection, it means finding their  pinout and soldering them to a usb-cable or a usb socket.

For the ones that use a serial connection, you'll have to find their pinout (again) and use a microcontroller with a firmware to convert the serial connection to a usb one (see the various Convert serial to usb threads for more details).

A pro of these is that they are pretty much jitter free.

Cons, they are limited in size (14.1" the biggest ones) and, actually, the electronics is a bit more difficult to pull out than connecting the screen to a controller board and lay it over a tablet.

12  Screen Tablet malarky / Heyaaaalpppp / Re: Laptop screen to wacom cintiqfor drawing on: June 10, 2017, 12:24:29 AM
A touchscreen and a digitizer-monitor are not the same... modern Cintiqs may have a touch screen, but it is an add on (and not all users enjoy it, as it sometimes interfere with drawing, like issues with spotty palm rejection in left hand mode creeping in in some driver revisions, strokes activating gestures etc) to the basic digitizer activity.

Most DIY project here have no touch interface (one would need to write a mouse filter driver that mutes the touch mouse on pen's detection, at the very minimum).

You'll need a controller for the pane (which has almost no metal in the active area, so you can decide to skip the panel modding phase)l, and a suitable digitizer (graphic tablet.)

15:6 full HD, the tablets that comes nearer are the Wacom Intuos 4, intuyos 5 and intuos pro  large. Alas, these are 8 x 12.8 ", so they are some 80 pixels narrower han your screen.

>As your panel is just 3.2 mm thick and has no metal plate, once you have a controller and have it up and running, ypu can simply lay it over the tablet and see how it goes.

If you feel very adventurous, you can try with the Huion 1410 Gianos - it is 14" x 10 ", and I think it is the digitizer that Huion uses in their 15.6" full HD "Cintiq Knockoff".

It is some 150 $, though.

13  General Category / Can't stop building / Re: Reference Images app on: June 05, 2017, 03:20:26 PM
What is TR?
14  Screen Tablet malarky / Build Logs / Re: UbiQ 3 on: May 29, 2017, 11:09:44 AM
P.S.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5NFpiXKNITA&feature=youtu.be
15  Screen Tablet malarky / Build Logs / Re: UbiQ 3 on: May 18, 2017, 10:45:01 AM
I also added a wireless numeric pad as shortcuts (note: this pad model is somewhat buggy, with keys prone to double-clicking; The MC Saite SK-51AG  that I use with UBiQ 2 is much more reliable).

[attachment=1]

With this, I hereby declare the build finished (till the next update).

P.S. I re/confirm that the refresh rate set at 75 hz improves things noticeably.

With the arm, I use a 3.0 mt long VGA cable, that runs along the usb line and the power line.

I noticed that when the pen is retrieved recognized by the tablet, a slight disturb affects the screen.

As I wrote, it is pretty slight, so I am not sure that it was not present even with the shorter cable and and the power and USB going each one its different way. However, if it is cross-talk between the USB cable and the VGA, it is yet another reason to prefer monitor with digital connections over ones with VGA.


Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 14

Powered by MySQL Powered by PHP Powered by SMF 1.1.21 | SMF © 2015, Simple Machines Valid XHTML 1.0! Valid CSS!