March 24, 2017, 11:12:06 AM *
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
News: You may have to login twice the first time,  but we don't know why - Erm I mean it's a security thing yeah that's it - security.
  Home Help Search Login Register  
  Show Posts
Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 12
1  General Category / Can't stop building / Reference Images app on: March 09, 2017, 11:22:51 PM
This is a small Java application that allows to place  a number of "reference" pictures on the desktop,
and above your preferred drawing software, too...

Be gentle, I wrote it in a spur of Java fever, and it shows it, a bit.

My idea was to be able to have some photo references at hand, without having to print them, and without
feeling too much the temptation to just import them inside the drawing software and trace over them (which follows Wally Wood mantra, maybe a bit too much to the letter).

This is, really, the main "Original Sin" of having moved completely to the digital side (the SimtiQs are just too good).  

The application can open a series of small windows, that can be resized, moved, each one showing an image that can be resized and clipped (of course, just what we see - it is non-destructive).

It memorizes the parameters of each one, so that each frame will be restored more or less exactly the next time the application will be launched, and or when their  set ("Session") will be reloaded.

It can grab the images from the system clipboard (useful on google and the likes) automatically, or with a usual ctrl v (kind of... it depends a bit from what element in the GUI have focus, so it can misfire).

It has a management frame, a configuration window, a system tray icon with a pop-up menu... and its  share of small bugs (I will sort them out, with time).  

It is possible to decide to keep more than one set of reference pictures (which, by the way, need not be in any specific location on the computer, though the application stores its auto-saved clips in one location), each one called a "Session"...

Theoretically, one could have "cars", "flowers", "reference for Xyz drawing" etc.

Note that it has been designed for use, originally, as a back end to Windows' "Send to" feature...

To work with it, when my little app is run, it first tries to call any "older" copies of itself through TCP on the local machine, and if one instance of it is already open and listening (i.e. has already loaded all the GUI), the process spawned by the "Send To" event will simply send its "sister" the list of files to add, and die.

With no graphics involved, it is relatively fast.

For this reason, when the App runs for the first time, firewalls may pop a warning and ask to deny/allow the connection.

 A suggested trick, to keep things under control: instead of launching it using the standard javaw.exe virtual machine, I make a copy of javaw with a specific name,  and use a short-cut to launch the Jar - it makes easier check what this - and all the others small java apps that I wrote, each is created through a JW[nameApp].exe copy of javaw - really do in my computer. Opening the task manager, each different copy is identifiable by its name , which makes easy kills what misbehave, or runn¡ng an analysis on it using Process hacker.

If you do not allow it to use TCP, every call will open a new instance of the application (once upon a time, I used a .lock file system, but it was prone to jamming).

If you authorize it in the firewall, only one instance may run at each time (which is plenty enough, really).      

The 32 bit jar is compiled against Java 1.7.

The 64 bits version is compiled against Java 1.8.


Direct interface with a mouse or a pen on the image frame:

The left slider is the zoom.

The right and bottom sliders behave like scrollbars (and should disappear when not in use).

To move the picture inside its frame, pick it with the mouse below the file name area

To drag the whole picture frame, either pick it on the  top (where is the name of the file),  or click the right button of the mouse while moving.

Theoretically, clicking the central button should set it in "zoom" MODE, but I have no mouses at the moment, and my Wacom driver is a bit of a prick, so I haven't tested it.

All these actions are mirrored on the "Remote Mouse" area of the admin window - on it, it also work using shift (drag the highlited image frame) and ctrl (UP-down: image zoom; left-right: changes the size of the frame.)

Also, the image frames can be moved by selecting one in the admin frame (keys A and Z to chose the selected frame) and using the keyboard arrows (shift makes the movement faster, ctrl makes the frames jump monitor)

Odd functions: in multi-monitor systems, each picture shows also a "Jump to next screen" button in the right upper corner, just aside its _ (hide) button.
Also, for multi-monitors set-ups, there is the option (in the settings) "Crossing screen boundaries is unsafe".

I added these because, I discovered, when you have a multi-monitor set-up with more than one graphic board, when you cross between monitors controlled by different boards,
Java applications can and usually freeze (this happens also with the DisplayLink usb... as far as I can understand, it is some bug, but where? in my work, in the Java Swing framework, in my computers...)

If  "Crossing screen boundaries is unsafe" is set, the Jump Screen buttons ( on the frames, or in the management table) become the only mode to move the frames ( and the admin window)
from one monitor to the other (or the "Remote Mouse", which makes them "Jump" to the screen the mouse has entered).

Adding images to the sets can be done in four ways of increasing simplicity:

 Using an "Add Image" button ( or the Add Image function of the Tray ) - it is the most unhelpful way.

 Passing a set of paths to files (i.e. using a Windows "Send to" feature, or similar)

 Copy-pasting the image.

 Telling it to continuously "Grab The clipboard" (again, on the Admin frame or in the Tray pop-up menu) - every time one copies an image, it will automatically build it in a frame.

(Both copy-pastes may not work, depending on how the app you do the copy in classifies the image data; It works wondrously with my Firefox and Manga Studio, it fails with windows image viewer. )

Note: over time, I shall add keyboards short-cuts for every action... configurables? Aaagh

The Jar can be found here:


that is part of my contribution to Simtiqitude that can be found in:


For those of us that miss the possibility to have a hierarchy of options under the "Send to" feature in windows, I added my implementation of a structured system for it.

It is still in Java (1,7 ? I think), and it does call itself through TCP (it's faster than using files, and I do not have to keep writing over the same spots in my SSD) so that, after the first time, it is very fast (note to self: do not cross-monitors with this).  

Finally, to make people envy my genius,



Because of not only of plywood is Dabotz the master...

2  Screen Tablet malarky / Build Logs / Re: Ribbitiq - trying not to break everything. on: March 09, 2017, 09:47:28 PM
Let me know something about the Classic Pen .

I have a Intuos 4 Grip pen  - my first build, that I still use at night, was a "TabletMod L" derivative, witn an Intuos 4  large and a 15.4" AUO panel - and I hate it.

Not only the form of it, but also the fact that I feel the tip of it fitting a bit more loosely than in the Intuos 2 Pens (which already are not a Rotring RapidoGraph), and its pressure sensor not only is not very linear, it tends to "weaken up" after half an hour or so.

That, and the prices, are the factors that decided me to stick with the Intuos 2 (that I bought just to make a try for something with better colours, to use at night - it's... complicated) till I can.

I may opt for an Intuos 3 (the inch of screen or so that the Intuos 2 12x18 does not cover are a bit of a bother)... some day.

I've seen that newer Wacoms have 8092 pressure levels.

I hope that they got them more linear, because if they are like my I4 Grip Pen, I see no real improvement in more precision (which is not the same as accuracy, by the way - see the 5080 lpi - 0.005 mm precision - vs the 0.5 mm accuracy of the tablets beyond the Intuos 2... by the way, for a DiY-tiq spatial accuracy is as important as the precision, or more).  

How does feel, the I4 classic pen?
3  Screen Tablet malarky / Build Logs / Re: Ribbitiq - trying not to break everything. on: March 04, 2017, 02:49:30 PM
By geometry, I simply men the way you lay the stuff in the build, or details in the frame of the LCD.

Check that the Wacom board and its back metal pate  are plane and at the right distance one from each other (without the back metal plate, the reading height goes down significantly, and I have read somewhere here that some managed to augment it in their bit, by carefully augmenting the distance between the plate and the antennas board).
I realize that it is hardly going to be your case, as you were testing it "bare", but I have taken this habit of not moving the LCD, unless I have reassembled it enough that it is safe to handle without an excessive care.

In the case of my last build, I carved out the centre of the LCD backplate and remounted the remaining frame. It made my stripped LD almost as solid as it originally was, but it also meant that I conserved the half mm ridge that it has all around.

Then I connected it with the TCon board, so that those precious FFC didn't have to fear any mechanical stress. using two stainless steel flanges - and I added a couple of mm there.

Then lose another couple in the way the Wacom sat inside the case.

In the end, the first test run was terrible, because it looked like the new screen (which is 3 mm thinner than the old one, the glorious HP LE2201) gave me a worse reading height and more false clicks.

Then, I realized - and fixed - those small mistakes, and the end result is nice enough.

As far as how come nobody outside Wacom seems to be able to do a decent self-calibrating driver, it would just be really nice if they added a manual calibration interface for the ones like us.

Our panels may not be the same, but are still more similar that the ones in the IPS225v (which use a flat ffc instead of single cable, to power the led).

Also, being engineers a shy race averse to changing things just because, I would expect them to share as much characteristics as possible (for example, the LVDS timing characteristics).

On the other hands, my builds use Intuos 2 which, I suspect, where designed with more tolerance for EMF interference, and for going behind much thicker screens.

I never had to contact the admin or mods in this forum, so I have no idea...
4  Screen Tablet malarky / Build Logs / Re: Ribbitiq - trying not to break everything. on: February 27, 2017, 02:56:26 PM
Calibration is often the weakest point of the "would-be Cintiqs" - none seems to work all that well.

Note that with a DIY, it is going to be a lot less easier - it is not the driver that does it for you but, as it is NOT it doing the work (in some half-botched way), you can finesse it over time.

The panel looks a lot like the one in the LG IPS224v that I used to overhaul my second build, but I am perplexed from the lack of reading height.

None of my builds (the four of them that I have at home...  I know, that's called mania; when I see a tablet and a screen, I feel this urge to rape the second on top of the first) has less than three mm of reading height above its glass cover (mostly, 3 mm thick), and they comprehend an unopened Intuos 4, with a laptop panel and a 2mm glass.

Check well the geometry of the assembly - with a build that big, it is very easy to "lose" mm of height, more so in this preliminary stage, that can be recovered with a careful final construction.
5  Screen Tablet malarky / Build Logs / Re: Here comes UBiQ 2 on: February 27, 2017, 04:32:49 AM
Fast update...

Elegant as it was, the big glass panel and its overhangs proved too fragile. After I broke it a second time, I decided to limit the glass area to the bare minimum... and brought back the duct tape. In turn, it got me to recuperate some more tenth of mm, which helps - maybe more by the reduction of parallax than an improvement of the pen precision (though, I feel this has improved, too).

I left open the areas of the perimeter frame where the flanges reach to it.

The resulting chimney effect - I never draw keeping it ,ore horizontal than 45º - seems to  be enough to cool down a bit the thing.

Given how much I use it (being very steady, it makes faster ), if I ever were to rebuild the case, I would directly integrate the 9.7" Miniq on the right, so that both screens are under the same glass... given the fact that its digitiser and the screen, together, are some 7 mm thick whereas the main panel is 10 mm. it would be easy to overlap them and get the two screens at some 5 cm of distance ( not less, alas), the God of E.M.I permitting it (or a judicious use of shielding... I think that in his case it could help).

As a final note...

"In truth I shall say: a better screen and a nicer pen feel better than a newer digitizer."

I should try to lay my hands on an Intuos 4 "classic pen", but one hundred bucks is a bit too much for a curiosity.

For now, I still feel that the design had progressed (the Intuos 4 is very beautiful, with its OLED labels for the buttons) but user experience - for me - did so much, much less.

Final note: Wacom Driver 6.1.7-3 handle both the Intuos 2 and the Intuos 4 handsomely, if anybody else has a mixed bag Intuoses. Also, I have seen that  the same should do, in Windows 7 and beyond, Driver version 6.3.6-3

6  Screen Tablet malarky / Useful Links / Re: Infra red touch bar on: December 15, 2016, 12:37:38 PM
Not exactly a script - you'd have to write a "filter" that "disconnects" the touch tracking when... and here comes the fun part.

Disconnect the touch sensor when the pen "hits" the surface?

If you use Lazy Nezumi, the result would be that, when you touch the surface, the cursor "jumps" from where you were changing settings to where you are drawing, likely adding a straight line in the drawing.

If you decide that the touch screen "disengage" on pen hovering over the drawing area, to use the touch you have to stop, raising the pen a cm before going back.

Now, with any decent set-up (not only a "true" Cintiq, but even just my ungodly wireless Numpad + Device dependent macros) you can keep hammering your hot-keys WHILE you draw...

For example, changing the reference size of the brush in between strokes.

And this is the reason why a lot of those that tried it (or worse, have bought a Wacom that has it) decided to forgot the whole touch function, while they draw.

It may be useful when you are not drawing, maybe...

But what represents a near-comfortable work-flow on a 10'' (using your fingers to interact with the GUI) becomes an hassle if you use it on, say, a 22".

7  Screen Tablet malarky / Gallery of Cool / Re: Drawings made with UBiQ (Intuos 2 12x18, LG IPS224v - minor jitter) on: November 07, 2016, 09:06:38 PM
These are still produced with the "Old" Ubiq...

I am not sure that I will open a different thread for the "revision" of my workhorse, the mighty UBiQ 2, as in many way it feel so much similar to the old machine (it is the same intuos 2, inside)...  
8  Screen Tablet malarky / Gallery of Cool / Re: TabletMod L sort of Wood Glass Photoshop on: November 07, 2016, 07:33:38 PM
War: Is there a specific website or software that allows you too do all these cool photoshop pics.
What level of pc skills do you need to do this?
Pretty cool.....

I did these with, simply, Photoshop Elements and nothing more.

However, if you compare these with more recent works http://forum.bongofish.co.uk/index.php?topic=2480, the inking is quite rough.

On one side, Photoshop (and its offshoots) is the WRONG software to draw lines, as it lacks a feature called "Stroke stabilization".

I think that at this time I was already using "Lazy Nezumi", which is a 3rd party stroke stabilizer for Windows, in its old, shareware version (today, the author charges quite a bit for the "modern version" of it; however, I would use it even if I had a Wacom Cintiq 27 QHD, and not the jittery thingy that replaced the Cabinetiq.

If you have a program with stroke stabilization, like Manga Studio ( 40 $ ) or GIMP (open source, works best in Linux, though) you may do without LNP.

I like to have it because I have hooked it up using a Macros program, so I have two keys in a wireless numeric pad to raise or lower the level of stabilization.

Also, LNP allows to "draw" the curve response of the pen (like the Linux driver) and compensate for the "horrible" curve of the Wacom pen.  

(By the way, The Linux driver also has an internal "stabilization" feature, called rawsample, that uses a moving window to average and filter out the pen noise, so, when I was using Linux, I could likewise raise or lower the stabilization with two keys, thriough a macroi program and a couple of shell scripts ).

I use a Macro programs that distinguishes between different keyboards (and mouses) called HIDMacros (Shareware), which allows me to use different numeric pads as they were different programmable keypads.

As a result, on my current Intuos 2 - based machine (no hotkeys on the Wacom tablet) I use two numeric pads and a keyboard, for a total of about a hundred hot-keys (to be honest, the limit is pretty much how many keys I manage to remember, not an issue of the program), using stickers to mark the effective use of each key.  

"What level of pc skills do you need to do this?"

I would say "not very much", after all it is just getting some programs and invest a bit of time in "tuning" things.

But lately, some friends made me notice that my idea of "nice, simple and easy" isn't exactly shared by the rest of the world.

9  Screen Tablet malarky / Build Logs / Re: Here comes UBiQ 2 on: November 06, 2016, 05:50:19 PM
I do have an addiction... there are currently, on sale in ebay, an XD-1218-r (in Germany)  and a Philips 21.5" USB monitor (in Spain, no less! USB powered and controlled, LED but no IPS... temptation nonetheless) , and  it needed a considerable effort on my part not to buy both (and a teensy) to start building a USB only, re-firmware-able 21.5" machine...  

But, logically, from where I stand now, the only way to improve is going for the real thing (The 27" QHD) or make another 40" 4K (thewoodguy docet).

As a horrible side note, I brought back to life the Cabinetiq and, no... I do not like at all the feeling and the pressure response of the Intuos 4 grip pen.  

For me, those 2048 pressure levels are not worth the Intuos 2's 1024 ( or the 2048 of the Huion H610... a pity I didn't manage to Cintiqize that, but it lead me to "discover" the Intuos 2 and to my current line-up).

For the moment, my Simtiq days should be over.... simply because the stuff I have now works well enough for me.

My thanks to all the bongofishers - I couldn't have done these without you.

The Magnificent Three (Cintiqs)  and their environment.

10  Screen Tablet malarky / Build Logs / Re: Here comes UBiQ 2 on: October 08, 2016, 12:38:40 AM
Video using the thing -  half an hour of me drawing faces.

11  Screen Tablet malarky / Heyaaaalpppp / Re: Don't know what the hell we are talking about? on: September 12, 2016, 09:06:51 PM
also, if I remember well, it is used also by the Graphire and Bamboos "non professional" tablets... more or less, the one that wacom uses whrn they do not have to send the tilt information or other "extra" data.
12  Screen Tablet malarky / Build Logs / Re: Here comes UBiQ 2 on: August 23, 2016, 11:43:55 AM
Test drawing video, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gtQ_JvbgQKY

The sluggishness was, really, Lazy Nezumi... in the settings I  normally use with G...Q  I had switched off pointer and line overlay, which really slows down the pen movement.

13  Screen Tablet malarky / Build Logs / Re: Gigantiq - a tale of desmeasured greed. on: August 17, 2016, 10:51:45 PM
As it turned out to be quite a different build, I opened a separate Thread, http://forum.bongofish.co.uk/index.php?topic=2588
14  Screen Tablet malarky / Build Logs / Re: Here comes UBiQ 2 on: August 17, 2016, 10:42:39 PM
Step 4: Re-tuning the pen


Popping out the pen's buttons... I apply a moderate pressure to the blade, and twist the blade so that it acts as a small lever and forces the button piece to go up; the forces we are talking about, by the way, are in the order of 200-300 grams (about half a pound) - if you use more, something may break, I think; as I did it some times, the piece has now a small indent, where I lay the blade, which makes it even easier to remove the buttons cap.

I tuned the pen to educe jitter in the first UBiQ; Apparently, I had to retune it a bit, to work  best with the new LCD.  Essentially, I undid the last tune-in.

OK, with this, I finally reduced the jitter to about a pixel in the drawing area... not as good as I hoped - the jitter is "faster" than the one in "GigantiQ", though comparable or inferior in amplitude, so it feels not really better - but usable enough for me.  

Oddly enough, the new build feels a bit slower in pen response... No idea why, or if it is even true.

Still, I wonder what I did wrong... If I did anything wrong.
15  Screen Tablet malarky / Build Logs / Re: Here comes UBiQ 2 on: August 17, 2016, 10:29:17 PM
OK, fixing my mistakes..

Step Zero: dismount the machine (AGH - no photo)

Step one: raising the Tablet so that the LCD is in contact with the glass. I used foam (i.e. an under-dish foamy thingy).


Step 2: replacing the inox brackets with plastic ones.

The old bracket is the one in my hand; the new one is already attached to the screen, securing the TCON board to the frame

Step 3: Placing all back together


Note that I had some issues, trying to steer the led power lines, so  that I finally eliminated one corner of the location frame (now that the brackets are plastic,it was all too easy done)...

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 12

Powered by MySQL Powered by PHP Powered by SMF 1.1.21 | SMF © 2015, Simple Machines Valid XHTML 1.0! Valid CSS!