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1  Screen Tablet malarky / Build Logs / Re: Serenitiq 2 - Wacom Intuos 4 L + Rozsnyo DP2MBPR controller + LTN154YL01 on: August 16, 2017, 09:39:15 PM
Note on FCC ID - as far as I can tell, Wacom is identified by an "applicant id" HV4 -
as a matter of fact, all wacom authorization requests can be found here:


Then, the ID of the single product is often, simply, obtained by adding the Wacom  model ID, removing the hyphens.

Thus the Cintiq 21UX - model DTK2100 - has simply the  FCC ID HV4DTK2100

The tablet doesn't always follow the schema...

The Intuos 2 seems to be simply the HV4XD, for example.

2  Screen Tablet malarky / Build Logs / Re: Intuos4 XL (x2) 40" 4K or 27" Apple Display on: July 31, 2017, 04:29:03 PM
I would counsel going with the 27...

Builds with screen much bigger than the tablet active area (on all sides) tend to be remarkably jitter-free, as the T-Con board and the discontinuity added by the LCD borders can be kept out of the way.

http://forum.bongofish.co.uk/index.php?topic=2218.0 (this uses an Intuos 4)

http://forum.bongofish.co.uk/index.php?topic=2458.0 (this uses an Intuos 2)

On the other hand, as Ertew notes, the best cover for a 40" 4k is using the two digitizer placed verticals, with a "respect band" between their active areas (even in the best case scenario, you can't go below the width of one "digitizer border" of distance between the two, by overlapping a pcb to the other, with in the middle a grounded metal strip to intercept the mutual interferences; in the worse case, the "side band" interferences are strong enough that not only no overlap of the PCBs is possible, but rather the boards must be kept completely separated).

In this configuration, the screen is only slightly taller than the boards active areas ( by half an inch), which means that the T-Con board would lay directly above some the digitizer antennas, who would pick up its em fields (and RF-Cage would be needed almost for sure) and -thus - add jitter.

The "dead area" in the middle is not avoidable, and means that one must chose one of the two sides as "drawing area", and leave the other for palettes and auxiliary windows.

Now, I use two builds in a similar way -  a slightly jittery 21.5" as main drawing board, and a pretty precise 9.7" on its right side as palette screen.

The two screens are separated by about 6 cm of distance  (2,5") -  and it is already a bit of a bother.

More importantly, even if I sometimes desire to place them together in a single case, the truth is that I still rather have the small one able to be tilt in my direction, and so reduce perspective aberration and parallax when my head is above the drawing screen, rather than a more elegant, flusher (but, actually, less functional) solution.

- Truth is, it already is a bit distant from my drawing station as it is.

In a 40" with digitizers as near as possible, the situation would be similar but there also would be no way to tilt half of the screen in the user's direction.    

As for placing the two digitizers near the LCD borders, with only one big "dead area" in centre...

if 2" are already a bother, 10" would be unbearable.

In conclusion, while the 40" would look amazing, I am not sure that drawing on it would be all that fun.

Note: edited for slight orthography and language fixes.
3  Screen Tablet malarky / Build Logs / Re: Unneeded-IQ on: July 25, 2017, 11:59:22 PM
In effect, I learned something.

Yesterday, I managed to replace the CCFLs in my old Flatron W1934s With led in an hour
(much simpler than the IBM...the "all-integrated" PSU-CCFL driver board has the CCFL Driver part separated from the rest, and connected with three jumpers - 13.4 V power, On/off, DIM - and the common ground).

Alas, I also damaged the cable connecting the buttons to the main board (I forgot to take the buttons board out, before lifting the half-dismounted monitor, and it fell through my hands) so I will have to try to replace it (8 1 mm pitch solders... I am dumb).
4  Screen Tablet malarky / Build Logs / Re: UbiQ 3 on: July 25, 2017, 11:40:38 PM
It only has issues around a relatively massive inductance that is on the T-Con board, at about  three cm from the screen border, that interferes with the vertical antennas that read the X position in the 10 cm to the right of the screen and also adds plenty of false clicks.

If I am right and that is, indeed, the main culprit... alas, I have nowhere near the soldering skills to de-solder and safely moving it out of the way, and I am not sure  that improving the RF cage would completely tame it

(the one that I made is of 0.5 mm thick low-carbon iron, from the carved-out back of the IPS224-v in the UBiQ2. It is true that I suspect that replacing it with one wider, so that the "closure" of its magnetic field happens beyond the active area, could improve things... if only had I thought it before cutting the RF cage sheet metal).

In the middle of the screen, jitter is down to a pixel, so a smart disposition of the GUI elements makes it very usable.

In reality, the main difference with the "2" (that is more jittery, in the middle) is that the swinging arm support is a bit too good at moving around, whereas "2" is now part of a whole drawing table and doesn't move at all.

On one side, drawing sketches on the sofa while listening to the television is pretty relaxing.

On the other, the screen position is just too wobbly to do the kind of fine, sweeping arm movements that "2" allows and, as a result, when drawing on the "3" I tend to use thicker lines.  

An "UBiQ 4"?

Alas, I think that the only ways "up" would be passing to the Intuos 3, to cover a whole 21.5" (if the board has a size comparable to the Intuos 2, then I could simply swap one for the other in the "2"), or going for higher resolution screens.

For the time being, both are beyond my budget and my needs.

Eventually, I could try to "restore" the "Cabinetiq" replacing the AUO with a Retina screen, but...  I really like to draw big - it is one of the reasons why I placed the "Mini-q" on the side of the "2", so that all of the no-jittery area was free for drawing, and finicky GUI elements were in the stablest of my builds -.

"UBiQ 3" 's  19.5" (with no "secondary") is really the minimum, for me.

(I remember when Cabinetiq's 15.4" seemed great to me... for a while, some time ago, I was back at using it, and it felt just too little, hence the birth of "3".)

On the other side, going for a bigger screen with a multi-digitizer set-up... doesn't look too interesting.

It can be done, but the "dead areas" to be left would be pretty annoying.

[Note: i edited this post to try and make it a bit clearer. I hope that I managed it.]
5  Screen Tablet malarky / Heyaaaalpppp / Re: Laptop screen to wacom cintiqfor drawing on: July 21, 2017, 01:02:40 AM
Is it just a point, or a whole vertical band?

If it is a point, the source of the noise probably is the circuitry inside the LCD, and little can be done aside trying to see if changing the refresh rate does ameliorate it.

If it is a vertical band in which you have horizontal jitter, then the culprit is inside the t-con board (possibly, an inductance - a coil; my last build has one, three cm from the right border of the t-con, and it makes for horrible jitter and false clicks) and you can try to shield it, building an RF cage all around the T-Con board.

(if possible, extends its width so that the margins of the cage lay beyond the limits of the tablet active area... I suspect that where the cage ends, the EM field bends and it "couples" with the digitizer antennas, so going wider could help avoid my meddlesome "vertical border crazies")
6  Screen Tablet malarky / Build Logs / Re: Unneeded-IQ on: July 11, 2017, 01:09:54 AM
If I see correctly, DVI connector miss many pins. This must be DVI-A input plus some funny pins for PnP, monitor ID and hot-plug detection. Definitely no digital input.

Nice work with backlight. If I see correctly, this screen are designed to easily swap backlight elements.

P.S. linked video doesn't work.

I tried the link, and it works for me.

The back-light replacement is very easy, in this LCD - one unscrews the CCFL assembly, and they require a very modicum force to slid out of the Panel- no need to open all up, and expose the various layers inside the lightbox or the LCD.

The back metal plate, too, was attached to the internal plastic frame and could be removed without opening the panel.

Also, the assemblies holding the CCFL are pretty sturdy  - to take out the lamps and glue the led strips in their place ( with a non-conductive, transparent "mass" glue resembling a sticky silicone that I use often as "DIY" rubber) was maybe half an hour of work.

At full power, the LED driver had an inductor that heated up quite a bit - I glued a 4x4 cm piece of aluminium (a radiating surface from a scrapped PSU) on top of it, and it cools it down nicely.

The main issue with this screen was the Hirose connector: it is beyond my ability to jury-rig a longer extension for that, and the cable inside the monitor is just too short to place the main board in any sensible position.

Combined with the fact that both the comlumns driver and the rows driver boards interfere with the Intuos, requiring two RF cages, it made the project simply too much hassle, for little gain.

However, I mounted the monitor back together (if I can, I always try to keep things reversible till the final build), and I  am happy to say that, for the moment, it works flawlessly - the LEDs are a bit too spaced, and it shows on blacks in the cm or so above the LED strips, but I think it is acceptable.
7  Screen Tablet malarky / Build Logs / Re: Unneeded-IQ on: July 07, 2017, 10:14:52 PM
Waiting for the OPAmps (and my fortitude to re-group), I tried to solder an extension for the Hirose DF9 etc... No way in hell I can manage 82 solders on pins with 1 mm pitch.

I am stuck with the original, ridiculously short cable.

As a result, the relative position of LCD vs The board is all but fixed... two cm to wiggle around, or so. Also, the connector is ridiculously prone to unlatch on his own (also, the cable is as rigid as I would like my nether parts to be, which definitely does not help).

Never ever again will I consider using a panel with it...

I have decided to place the screen "vertical", to be a the middle of the finished build, which has led me to some unfortunate discoveries...

This allows me to place the monitor main board, the power and video inputs board  and the Intuos secondary board in the same underside recess, and keep the front relatively
thin (relatively is the main word, here... if I guess correctly, and the XD-0912 is similar to the XD-0608, a build with one of them and a modern LAptop LCD can be as thichk as 1.5 cm; this one at minimum is going to be 32 mm.)

My 12"x18" build is 61x43 cm (it could be trimmed town to 59.5x40.5, simply avoiding the second order of side walls that I added to have the width for the side screw threads.

If I decided to go on, this 15" (12"x9") was going to be 43 cm tall, for... 48 cm wide. Much bigger than I expected or desired. 

Also, having it open and all, I was finally able to do some tests and, in the end...

Both the column rows driver boards interfere with the tablet, and even with these out of the way, the build closes on par with the old "UBiq" center area, at which point... I may be better served building a smaller case for that, wide as the screen only... it would have a similar final footprint, a bigger drawable Area (about 1100x1050 px, vs 1024x768, or 16" vs 15").

A video of the test https://youtu.be/CYRuOCooNEI

A bummer, but I learnt how to replace CCFL with LEDs, at least. 


8  Screen Tablet malarky / Build Logs / Re: Unneeded-IQ on: June 29, 2017, 06:30:13 PM
My idea was having a PWM frequency tunable between some 200 and 1000-1200 hz... pretty basic, as far as electronics go.

Fast enough to avoid seeing the light flicker (would it be best some exact multiple of the refresh rate? no idea), slow enough that the on/off times of the LED can be ignored hen setting brightness at minimum , and with a chance of tuning it out of resonances with the tablet, should these manifest themselves.

From what you told me before, the LED kit probably can't handle things going much faster than that, anyway... and my soldering ability is not stellar, so slower is going to be better.
9  Screen Tablet malarky / Build Logs / Re: Unneeded-IQ on: June 27, 2017, 08:47:38 PM
Thanks for the tit-bit about the LM358, Ertew (though, I thought that a 1Khz max output frequency was pretty basic...).

I can't find that at the local shop, nor the AD8359 that I used with Spice... I'll have to decide for something else anyway, it seems.

On a side note, I have bought a couple of DF9-41-V(the plugs to the DF9-41-P sockets)  that will arrive in a week or so... when they'll arrive, I'll have to try to whip up a longer connection cable for the lcd.

that is going to be frustrating. or fun.

Or frustrating.

I admit that, as it is a bit on the supernumerary side of things, I am taking a lot more risks than usual, on this build.

10  Screen Tablet malarky / Build Logs / Re: Unneeded-IQ on: June 27, 2017, 01:04:07 PM
In the end, I think that I will replace that capacitor with one of 100nF and the resistance with one 2.5 fixed and a variable (an ungrounded potenziometer) of 0-10k one.

it should give a PWM with a frequency tunable between some 200 hz and a low khz...


I changed the .asc extension to .txt ( it is a text file, after all) - I used LTSpice, from Linear Techcnologies... hence, the choice of the OP-Ampli (I am going to use an LM358 or something the like, in the end).
11  Screen Tablet malarky / Build Logs / Re: Unneeded-IQ on: June 24, 2017, 09:46:32 AM
Thanks again, Ertew. I see no converter on the power board, though I still have to un-mount it so it could well be on the other side(for the moment, I have no access to my usual working table, so I will have to shelf this project for a little while)...

More than a bit of a Bummer, for me.


Yes, I already supposed that I had to build some Analog to PWM converter.

I found a schema, on-line, that should do the trick and, with a small adaptation, being able to provide a tunable frequency


(just using a variable resistor for R4 should allow a certain degree of tune, but I'll look it better when I have a bit of time to install a SPICE and play... if I remember my electrics well, that RC time constant is way too low, off by a couple of magnitudes).

12  Screen Tablet malarky / Build Logs / Re: Unneeded-IQ on: June 23, 2017, 07:17:27 PM
Checked the line...

Output is

 0.1 V   with brightness at 100%

 5 V with brighness at 0%

I fear that it is not a PWM , but a direct analog output, as the LED board doesn't seem to respond much to the brightness control.

(but it heats up less the LED, so, maybe it's just that my etes do not see the difference)

If it is an analog, I suppose I could wip up an analog-PWM converter with a capacitor, a resistor, a diode and the usual double op-ampli chip... I should really need some kind of signal analyzer.   
13  Screen Tablet malarky / Build Logs / Re: Unneeded-IQ on: June 22, 2017, 11:50:44 PM
Thanks, Ertew... bummer for the analog-only input.  Why on Earth did they decide to have a DVI connector there, instead of a classic D-Sub, escapes me.

I will check page 40, thanks.

... oh, it i the line with the blue cable (the only one different, all the others are grey)

I feel more than a bit dumb.

Being able to dim the brightness will be very nice, as at full power it is almost too bright and heats up quite a bit.

14  Screen Tablet malarky / Build Logs / Unneeded-IQ on: June 22, 2017, 02:56:08 PM
A little time ago, I ceded to a temptation - an Intuos 2 12x12 USB, for 1euro (+10 of shipping fees).

The guy selling it wasn't sure it worked, it lacked a button (not really... just that odd cover that is in place of a Reset button used in some iteration of the serial connection tablets) and had no pen, but the light went up when attached to the usb, and the computer "saw" it.

Being educated in the ways of Bongofishism, I gambled on it having nothing more than marks and scruffs.

For a while, it has sat around in my drawing place, waiting for the future.

Then, a month or so, I was struck by yet another attack of Cintiquism, and went on ebay for a cheap 15" with external power brick - possibly with DVI connection.

The few I saw asked too much money, for my taste (this would be my sixth build, after all), but I finally saw an IBM 9493-ag1 for 25 Euros, shipping included.


I checked its service manual, found on-line ( https://www.manualslib.com/manual/963035/Ibm-9493-Aw1.html ) , and saw that it had an internal (hidden below a cover) DVI input socket, that went to the outside through a DVI to D-Sub (VGA) cable.

It also had replaceable CCFL lamps (which were likely in need to be replaced, as this is a business monitor and must have logged in 8 hours a day since the day it was bought).

Alas, I didn't peruse the manual long enough, or I would have seen that the LCD is a LG LM151X2-F2MN,  attached to the monitor module through a Hirose DF9-41p connector, and a whole twelve cm or so  (say, 5" in imperial units) of cable.

I so hoped it would be a 30 lines LVDS on a 1mm pitch FFC (like in the three LG monitors that I have opened).   


That is going to bite my ass...

Also, it is a 6 bit LCD (whoops - this wasn't going to be a "main battle Cintiq", anyway, just another "fast selection" screen, if it is not too messy, jitterwise - also, I hope that IBM did a good job with dithering, in the monitor firmware).

It arrived in a couple of days, and I immediately realized that the CCFL were - if not almost dead - very well ripe.

It took a minute or so to reach full brightness, on switch-on, and it wasn't much bright, anyway

I decided to invest some more 9 $ to buy one of those "Upgrade to LED" kits, before opening up the screen.

I am sorry that I did not take pictures of the disassembly of the monitor (extremely well put together... it has more screws and RF cage than those present in all the monitors I dismounted to date), but it is actually detailed in the service manual (so, it would be a a bit redundant).

When I reached finally inside the monitor, I saw the damn "Hirose on a short leash" connection, then saw that the back metal plate of the LCD was simply attached to a white plastic frame, and could be removed without opening the LCD panel (Good).

The CCFL are in pretty sturdy assemblies with a steel beam-channel containing them, and slide in-out of the panel pretty easily - so I could replace them with the LED bars, in a matter of an hour or so, ONCE I understood which cables are what.

In fact, instead of the 4 cables I expected, the inverter assembly - a Samsung LG1501 - was connected to the monitor's module with a ten pin connector, and ten individual lines (note: even if on my monitor, a permanent marker line marked the monitor module side, it doesn't matter if one's inverts the head or tail of the ten-lines, as they are flipped in the travel from one side to another)

Initially, I was perplexed, however a couple of continuity tests at monitor unplugged from the power grid and some final corroboration with it switched on and off, gave this pretty simple pin-out

     +5V       What the hell are these for?

     0V - GND
     0V - GND
     +4.9 V (on) / 0V (off )  -  enable , or enable+d¡m? I failed to see any difference in the value, though, when I dimmed down the brightness

     -0.1  V (Huh??)

     0V - GND
     0V - GND

Notable miss: which is the damn dim line? No idea.

I removed the LCD backplate; probably, sanding/filing down the plastic sprockets that hold it in place could lower its height 1-1.5 mm.

However, I saw something that just a couple of years ago would have been a snafu, for me - it has two PCBs, one folded back for the column driver, a more components heavy one for the row driver, connected by a 20 lines, 0.5mm pitch flexible PCB.


I bought and extender, from an Italian seller, and some 15cm (note: it is a bit tight; it would be better some ten cm, or so, more) of the correspondent FFC.

Once I got the extender and the FFC, I folded out the main PCB, and extended the lines of one CCFL, to see if this mod works.

It does.



(Note that, at full brightness, Photoshop retouch wasn't needed to see around the screen)

Yesterday I received the LED kit, and I proceeded to replace the CCFL.

(Retouched with Photoshop; even this way, the "aura" of the screen, with the LED, is well visible.)

It works as expected, at least twice as bright as before, but at the moment I have no dimming whatsoever.

Someone has any idea / suggestion?  
15  Screen Tablet malarky / Heyaaaalpppp / Re: Laptop screen to wacom cintiqfor drawing on: June 21, 2017, 12:51:32 PM
Note... I checked the TCon heats up, on my builds too.

I wouldn't be too worried about it, apart that it becomes a mess to work on them when the weather is warm.

Pens and screen borders is often a bit of a mess... typically, one must accept that the pen will "go away" in the area near the horizontal or vertical border of the tablet.

The best you can do is to calibrate it so that the pen is reasonably accurate in the widest possible area... not being able to go on the borders complicates a tiny bit the calibration.

Check the Simtiq planner   ( https://www.dropbox.com/s/676vr2qyxeuhab2/simtiq_planner.html?dl=1 ) to have an idea of the initial values.

Given the data of your screen, you should reduce the projection on the screen some 60 pixeels for each side (so, left, 60, right 1860) and see how it goes  from there.

(in your case, you have to change the screen projection, not the tablet area, to tune the X axis )

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