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16  Screen Tablet malarky / Build Logs / Re: 15" (4:3) Intuos 3 -> LCD tablet + finger touch (+palm rejection!!) on: November 07, 2017, 05:48:40 PM
Theoretically, one could write a "filter driver" to hook in the devices chain, to cut out the touch input when the pen hovers the active area (as far as I can tell, it is the same method used by Wacom).

Of course, writing drivers is not the simplest thing to do....
17  Screen Tablet malarky / Heyaaaalpppp / Re: ExpressKey Remote with old wacom drivers on: October 25, 2017, 07:48:05 PM
The service for Intuos 2 & 3 is "TabletServiceWacom" (executable, "Wacom_Tablet.exe").

The service for the Intuos 4 and beyond, as far as I know, is "Wacom Professional Service"(executable, WTabletServicePro).

Alas, it is not just a matter of these, there are also all the "kernel drivers" (some wacomxxxx.sys programs that are in %winsows%\system32\drivers


), which are supposedly what communicates with the components of the tablet just above the USB level.

It is probable that the Expresskey remote has its own ".sys" kernel driver and user level service, so maybe it is possible to get it to run with the Intuos 2.

Wacom drivers are also more than a bit finicky... for example, the 6.2.0_w5 driver should manage the Intuos 4 and 5,  this latter also in the versions with the touch interface (that has its own service, something with "touch" in its name), but in none of my computers it accepted to work with the Intuos 4!

It sees it, "installs" it, lights up the OLED and sees the tablet in mouse mode, then ask for a reboot.

After the reboot, it doesn't see the stupid thing, until I unplug and replug it... at which point it"re-installs" the I 4 and I am back to square 1. Annoying.

Whereas, the does not support any touch interface, but it can manage the Intuos 4 (as long as I do not unplug it... if I do, the "kernel driver"sometimes crashes, and I have to restart the pc).
18  Screen Tablet malarky / Heyaaaalpppp / Re: dropped 21UX 2nd gen not responding to stylus. on: October 24, 2017, 11:24:02 AM
Glass is a slippery material.

Unless you get it etched in the areas you need to paint, or have a specific paint, the tendency to peel off is to be expected. 

(By the way, for both things, the easiest way to do it is going to a local glass shop and ask them - they likely have the right paint and can even etch the borders to make it stick better, if necessary... )
19  Screen Tablet malarky / Heyaaaalpppp / Re: ExpressKey Remote with old wacom drivers on: October 13, 2017, 11:04:09 AM
As far as I know, the last Wacom driver that works with the Intuos 2 is the 6.2.0_w5, however I do not think that it supports the ExpressKey remote, which is a shame because it is really a nice piece of hardware and I know it does not work with my Intuos 4 (errata corrige, I meant intuos 2).

You can try and look if they released a newer driver for the Intuos 2, in which case, let me know.

Personally, to "emulate" the ExpressKey, I use a wireless numeric pad with "function stickers" on the keys
in conjunction with a "daemon" that changes its configuration files depending onn the active windows executable.

Pretty crude, no display and you must find a work to get it to keep position once the rubber pads at its back fall off (the grease from the hand palm "sneaked up" and dissolved the glue, in a couople of months - I am using a counterweighted parallelogram, reminiscent of some old technical drafting machines ), but it works...

P.S. would you mind publish a photo of your finished build? When I made my first Intuos 2 XL build, I didn't realize that your machine was a functional one until after I bought a first screen... you managed to get it working, and never posted a shot of the completed thing.
20  Screen Tablet malarky / Monitors / Re: Monitors/Laptops screens; That jitter and that don't!! on: October 09, 2017, 12:37:39 PM
I finally decided to buy a colorimeter, calibrated and profiled all of my monitors ( next time, Spyder [1-5] PRO is to be preferred, as it supports multi monitor, while the "Express" goes out of his way to avoid you using a different version of the profile it create for each monitors).

Not sure if the colorimeter itself has not some instrumental derive, as they all seems a bit "orange" now... maybe I was just used to screens pushing out a bit too much blue (*).

UbiQ2 and UBiQ3 ( LG IPS224v, LG 20MP48a ) have virtually the same profile, and are very similar to the Dell 19" that I thought to use as "repeater" in case UBiQ2 was  worse.

The LP097x02 SLEA (from the Ipad 1 - 2 ) of  the MiniQ gets spanked in a horrible way (even by the stegosaurus of my monitors, the IBM 9493 I tried to use  for an A4 build, that still manages a 77% of sRGB and a 59% of AdobeRGB against MiniQ 68%-50%... I forgot to take a shot of that, my bad).  

Further enquiries have led me to discover that these colorimeters are calibrated to emulate light from the Sun - at 6500 k - reflected by paper, as their purpose it to get the screens a bit closer to how printed photos would be seen in daylight, whereas most LCD screens are natively set to work with a colder hue - so that the profiled screens produce a "warmer" tone is simply to be expected.

21  Screen Tablet malarky / Gallery of Cool / Re: Drawings made with UBiQ2 (Intuos 2 12x18, LG IPS224v - very minor jittering) on: October 08, 2017, 08:37:05 PM
I really like your drawing style; I particularly like the last picture of john's spirit.

Wowser from me as well.  Nicely done.

Thanks. In effect, building my "...IQ"s helped me more than a bit, as I have not the steadiest hand on the planet, and using detached tablets  was a bother when doing this kind of drawings.

Meshing screen and tablet together was more or less "what the doctor orders".

Only thing, If I had bought an Intuo 4 XL instead of the L that I got, I would probably have built only one of these things, instead of five...
22  Screen Tablet malarky / Gallery of Cool / Re: Drawings made with UBiQ2 (Intuos 2 12x18, LG IPS224v - very minor jittering) on: October 02, 2017, 10:28:21 PM
I am pretty happy of this one...

23  Screen Tablet malarky / Heyaaaalpppp / Re: dropped 21UX 2nd gen not responding to stylus. on: September 27, 2017, 12:12:11 PM
You can try to see if there is polycarbonate available in your area, or going for some 2 mm thick glass.

If you opt for glass, you'll have to be careful because usually, in that thickness you can't usually find it tempered... at the appearance of any crack whatsoever, you'll have to replace it, as cracks -no matter how small on a border - always expand in unpredictable ways, in non-tempered glass.

The polycarbonate can be much more expensive than glass (by a factor 15 at least, as it costs more than acrylic - and that already costs almost ten times glass) , but it can also be much clearer and almost as resistant.  Scratch resistance would also be good, much better than acrylic, though adding a screen-protector would still be a good idea, as it would also give you some texture.

Personally I love to draw on glass - I used to place a glass plate even over my first tablet, a Graphire 4"x5" - but that is a perversion of mines.  
24  Screen Tablet malarky / Gallery of Cool / Re: Drawings made with UBiQ2 (Intuos 2 12x18, LG IPS224v - very minor jittering) on: September 25, 2017, 02:24:45 AM
25  Screen Tablet malarky / Gallery of Cool / Re: Drawings made with UBiQ2 (Intuos 2 12x18, LG IPS224v - very minor jittering) on: September 25, 2017, 02:18:04 AM
26  Screen Tablet malarky / Gallery of Cool / Drawings made with UBiQ2 (Intuos 2 12x18, LG IPS224v - very minor jittering) on: September 25, 2017, 02:16:47 AM
UBiQ 2 is a re-work of my first Intuos2 XL build, with a 21.5" full HD LED IPS screen replacing the aboriginal 22" WXGA CCFL of the first version.

Its build log is to be found at

And these are some of the drawings I made with it...

27  Screen Tablet malarky / Build Logs / Re: Serenitiq 2 - Wacom Intuos 4 L + Rozsnyo DP2MBPR controller + LTN154YL01 on: August 16, 2017, 09:39:15 PM
Note on FCC ID - as far as I can tell, Wacom is identified by an "applicant id" HV4 -
as a matter of fact, all wacom authorization requests can be found here:

Then, the ID of the single product is often, simply, obtained by adding the Wacom  model ID, removing the hyphens.

Thus the Cintiq 21UX - model DTK2100 - has simply the  FCC ID HV4DTK2100

The tablet doesn't always follow the schema...

The Intuos 2 seems to be simply the HV4XD, for example.

28  Screen Tablet malarky / Build Logs / Re: Intuos4 XL (x2) 40" 4K or 27" Apple Display on: July 31, 2017, 04:29:03 PM
I would counsel going with the 27...

Builds with screen much bigger than the tablet active area (on all sides) tend to be remarkably jitter-free, as the T-Con board and the discontinuity added by the LCD borders can be kept out of the way. (this uses an Intuos 4) (this uses an Intuos 2)

On the other hand, as Ertew notes, the best cover for a 40" 4k is using the two digitizer placed verticals, with a "respect band" between their active areas (even in the best case scenario, you can't go below the width of one "digitizer border" of distance between the two, by overlapping a pcb to the other, with in the middle a grounded metal strip to intercept the mutual interferences; in the worse case, the "side band" interferences are strong enough that not only no overlap of the PCBs is possible, but rather the boards must be kept completely separated).

In this configuration, the screen is only slightly taller than the boards active areas ( by half an inch), which means that the T-Con board would lay directly above some the digitizer antennas, who would pick up its em fields (and RF-Cage would be needed almost for sure) and -thus - add jitter.

The "dead area" in the middle is not avoidable, and means that one must chose one of the two sides as "drawing area", and leave the other for palettes and auxiliary windows.

Now, I use two builds in a similar way -  a slightly jittery 21.5" as main drawing board, and a pretty precise 9.7" on its right side as palette screen.

The two screens are separated by about 6 cm of distance  (2,5") -  and it is already a bit of a bother.

More importantly, even if I sometimes desire to place them together in a single case, the truth is that I still rather have the small one able to be tilt in my direction, and so reduce perspective aberration and parallax when my head is above the drawing screen, rather than a more elegant, flusher (but, actually, less functional) solution.

- Truth is, it already is a bit distant from my drawing station as it is.

In a 40" with digitizers as near as possible, the situation would be similar but there also would be no way to tilt half of the screen in the user's direction.    

As for placing the two digitizers near the LCD borders, with only one big "dead area" in centre...

if 2" are already a bother, 10" would be unbearable.

In conclusion, while the 40" would look amazing, I am not sure that drawing on it would be all that fun.

Note: edited for slight orthography and language fixes.
29  Screen Tablet malarky / Build Logs / Re: Unneeded-IQ on: July 25, 2017, 11:59:22 PM
In effect, I learned something.

Yesterday, I managed to replace the CCFLs in my old Flatron W1934s With led in an hour
(much simpler than the IBM...the "all-integrated" PSU-CCFL driver board has the CCFL Driver part separated from the rest, and connected with three jumpers - 13.4 V power, On/off, DIM - and the common ground).

Alas, I also damaged the cable connecting the buttons to the main board (I forgot to take the buttons board out, before lifting the half-dismounted monitor, and it fell through my hands) so I will have to try to replace it (8 1 mm pitch solders... I am dumb).
30  Screen Tablet malarky / Build Logs / Re: UbiQ 3 on: July 25, 2017, 11:40:38 PM
It only has issues around a relatively massive inductance that is on the T-Con board, at about  three cm from the screen border, that interferes with the vertical antennas that read the X position in the 10 cm to the right of the screen and also adds plenty of false clicks.

If I am right and that is, indeed, the main culprit... alas, I have nowhere near the soldering skills to de-solder and safely moving it out of the way, and I am not sure  that improving the RF cage would completely tame it

(the one that I made is of 0.5 mm thick low-carbon iron, from the carved-out back of the IPS224-v in the UBiQ2. It is true that I suspect that replacing it with one wider, so that the "closure" of its magnetic field happens beyond the active area, could improve things... if only had I thought it before cutting the RF cage sheet metal).

In the middle of the screen, jitter is down to a pixel, so a smart disposition of the GUI elements makes it very usable.

In reality, the main difference with the "2" (that is more jittery, in the middle) is that the swinging arm support is a bit too good at moving around, whereas "2" is now part of a whole drawing table and doesn't move at all.

On one side, drawing sketches on the sofa while listening to the television is pretty relaxing.

On the other, the screen position is just too wobbly to do the kind of fine, sweeping arm movements that "2" allows and, as a result, when drawing on the "3" I tend to use thicker lines.  

An "UBiQ 4"?

Alas, I think that the only ways "up" would be passing to the Intuos 3, to cover a whole 21.5" (if the board has a size comparable to the Intuos 2, then I could simply swap one for the other in the "2"), or going for higher resolution screens.

For the time being, both are beyond my budget and my needs.

Eventually, I could try to "restore" the "Cabinetiq" replacing the AUO with a Retina screen, but...  I really like to draw big - it is one of the reasons why I placed the "Mini-q" on the side of the "2", so that all of the no-jittery area was free for drawing, and finicky GUI elements were in the stablest of my builds -.

"UBiQ 3" 's  19.5" (with no "secondary") is really the minimum, for me.

(I remember when Cabinetiq's 15.4" seemed great to me... for a while, some time ago, I was back at using it, and it felt just too little, hence the birth of "3".)

On the other side, going for a bigger screen with a multi-digitizer set-up... doesn't look too interesting.

It can be done, but the "dead areas" to be left would be pretty annoying.

[Note: i edited this post to try and make it a bit clearer. I hope that I managed it.]
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