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31  Screen Tablet malarky / Heyaaaalpppp / Re: Laptop screen to wacom cintiqfor drawing on: July 21, 2017, 01:02:40 AM
Is it just a point, or a whole vertical band?

If it is a point, the source of the noise probably is the circuitry inside the LCD, and little can be done aside trying to see if changing the refresh rate does ameliorate it.

If it is a vertical band in which you have horizontal jitter, then the culprit is inside the t-con board (possibly, an inductance - a coil; my last build has one, three cm from the right border of the t-con, and it makes for horrible jitter and false clicks) and you can try to shield it, building an RF cage all around the T-Con board.

(if possible, extends its width so that the margins of the cage lay beyond the limits of the tablet active area... I suspect that where the cage ends, the EM field bends and it "couples" with the digitizer antennas, so going wider could help avoid my meddlesome "vertical border crazies")
32  Screen Tablet malarky / Build Logs / Re: Unneeded-IQ on: July 11, 2017, 01:09:54 AM
If I see correctly, DVI connector miss many pins. This must be DVI-A input plus some funny pins for PnP, monitor ID and hot-plug detection. Definitely no digital input.

Nice work with backlight. If I see correctly, this screen are designed to easily swap backlight elements.

P.S. linked video doesn't work.

I tried the link, and it works for me.

The back-light replacement is very easy, in this LCD - one unscrews the CCFL assembly, and they require a very modicum force to slid out of the Panel- no need to open all up, and expose the various layers inside the lightbox or the LCD.

The back metal plate, too, was attached to the internal plastic frame and could be removed without opening the panel.

Also, the assemblies holding the CCFL are pretty sturdy  - to take out the lamps and glue the led strips in their place ( with a non-conductive, transparent "mass" glue resembling a sticky silicone that I use often as "DIY" rubber) was maybe half an hour of work.

At full power, the LED driver had an inductor that heated up quite a bit - I glued a 4x4 cm piece of aluminium (a radiating surface from a scrapped PSU) on top of it, and it cools it down nicely.

The main issue with this screen was the Hirose connector: it is beyond my ability to jury-rig a longer extension for that, and the cable inside the monitor is just too short to place the main board in any sensible position.

Combined with the fact that both the comlumns driver and the rows driver boards interfere with the Intuos, requiring two RF cages, it made the project simply too much hassle, for little gain.

However, I mounted the monitor back together (if I can, I always try to keep things reversible till the final build), and I  am happy to say that, for the moment, it works flawlessly - the LEDs are a bit too spaced, and it shows on blacks in the cm or so above the LED strips, but I think it is acceptable.
33  Screen Tablet malarky / Build Logs / Re: Unneeded-IQ on: July 07, 2017, 10:14:52 PM
Waiting for the OPAmps (and my fortitude to re-group), I tried to solder an extension for the Hirose DF9 etc... No way in hell I can manage 82 solders on pins with 1 mm pitch.

I am stuck with the original, ridiculously short cable.

As a result, the relative position of LCD vs The board is all but fixed... two cm to wiggle around, or so. Also, the connector is ridiculously prone to unlatch on his own (also, the cable is as rigid as I would like my nether parts to be, which definitely does not help).

Never ever again will I consider using a panel with it...

I have decided to place the screen "vertical", to be a the middle of the finished build, which has led me to some unfortunate discoveries...

This allows me to place the monitor main board, the power and video inputs board  and the Intuos secondary board in the same underside recess, and keep the front relatively
thin (relatively is the main word, here... if I guess correctly, and the XD-0912 is similar to the XD-0608, a build with one of them and a modern LAptop LCD can be as thichk as 1.5 cm; this one at minimum is going to be 32 mm.)

My 12"x18" build is 61x43 cm (it could be trimmed town to 59.5x40.5, simply avoiding the second order of side walls that I added to have the width for the side screw threads.

If I decided to go on, this 15" (12"x9") was going to be 43 cm tall, for... 48 cm wide. Much bigger than I expected or desired. 

Also, having it open and all, I was finally able to do some tests and, in the end...

Both the column rows driver boards interfere with the tablet, and even with these out of the way, the build closes on par with the old "UBiq" center area, at which point... I may be better served building a smaller case for that, wide as the screen only... it would have a similar final footprint, a bigger drawable Area (about 1100x1050 px, vs 1024x768, or 16" vs 15").

A video of the test

A bummer, but I learnt how to replace CCFL with LEDs, at least. 


34  Screen Tablet malarky / Build Logs / Re: Unneeded-IQ on: June 29, 2017, 06:30:13 PM
My idea was having a PWM frequency tunable between some 200 and 1000-1200 hz... pretty basic, as far as electronics go.

Fast enough to avoid seeing the light flicker (would it be best some exact multiple of the refresh rate? no idea), slow enough that the on/off times of the LED can be ignored hen setting brightness at minimum , and with a chance of tuning it out of resonances with the tablet, should these manifest themselves.

From what you told me before, the LED kit probably can't handle things going much faster than that, anyway... and my soldering ability is not stellar, so slower is going to be better.
35  Screen Tablet malarky / Build Logs / Re: Unneeded-IQ on: June 27, 2017, 08:47:38 PM
Thanks for the tit-bit about the LM358, Ertew (though, I thought that a 1Khz max output frequency was pretty basic...).

I can't find that at the local shop, nor the AD8359 that I used with Spice... I'll have to decide for something else anyway, it seems.

On a side note, I have bought a couple of DF9-41-V(the plugs to the DF9-41-P sockets)  that will arrive in a week or so... when they'll arrive, I'll have to try to whip up a longer connection cable for the lcd.

that is going to be frustrating. or fun.

Or frustrating.

I admit that, as it is a bit on the supernumerary side of things, I am taking a lot more risks than usual, on this build.

36  Screen Tablet malarky / Build Logs / Re: Unneeded-IQ on: June 27, 2017, 01:04:07 PM
In the end, I think that I will replace that capacitor with one of 100nF and the resistance with one 2.5 fixed and a variable (an ungrounded potenziometer) of 0-10k one.

it should give a PWM with a frequency tunable between some 200 hz and a low khz...


I changed the .asc extension to .txt ( it is a text file, after all) - I used LTSpice, from Linear Techcnologies... hence, the choice of the OP-Ampli (I am going to use an LM358 or something the like, in the end).
37  Screen Tablet malarky / Build Logs / Re: Unneeded-IQ on: June 24, 2017, 09:46:32 AM
Thanks again, Ertew. I see no converter on the power board, though I still have to un-mount it so it could well be on the other side(for the moment, I have no access to my usual working table, so I will have to shelf this project for a little while)...

More than a bit of a Bummer, for me.


Yes, I already supposed that I had to build some Analog to PWM converter.

I found a schema, on-line, that should do the trick and, with a small adaptation, being able to provide a tunable frequency


(just using a variable resistor for R4 should allow a certain degree of tune, but I'll look it better when I have a bit of time to install a SPICE and play... if I remember my electrics well, that RC time constant is way too low, off by a couple of magnitudes).

38  Screen Tablet malarky / Build Logs / Re: Unneeded-IQ on: June 23, 2017, 07:17:27 PM
Checked the line...

Output is

 0.1 V   with brightness at 100%

 5 V with brighness at 0%

I fear that it is not a PWM , but a direct analog output, as the LED board doesn't seem to respond much to the brightness control.

(but it heats up less the LED, so, maybe it's just that my etes do not see the difference)

If it is an analog, I suppose I could wip up an analog-PWM converter with a capacitor, a resistor, a diode and the usual double op-ampli chip... I should really need some kind of signal analyzer.   
39  Screen Tablet malarky / Build Logs / Re: Unneeded-IQ on: June 22, 2017, 11:50:44 PM
Thanks, Ertew... bummer for the analog-only input.  Why on Earth did they decide to have a DVI connector there, instead of a classic D-Sub, escapes me.

I will check page 40, thanks.

... oh, it i the line with the blue cable (the only one different, all the others are grey)

I feel more than a bit dumb.

Being able to dim the brightness will be very nice, as at full power it is almost too bright and heats up quite a bit.

40  Screen Tablet malarky / Build Logs / Unneeded-IQ on: June 22, 2017, 02:56:08 PM
A little time ago, I ceded to a temptation - an Intuos 2 12x12 USB, for 1euro (+10 of shipping fees).

The guy selling it wasn't sure it worked, it lacked a button (not really... just that odd cover that is in place of a Reset button used in some iteration of the serial connection tablets) and had no pen, but the light went up when attached to the usb, and the computer "saw" it.

Being educated in the ways of Bongofishism, I gambled on it having nothing more than marks and scruffs.

For a while, it has sat around in my drawing place, waiting for the future.

Then, a month or so, I was struck by yet another attack of Cintiquism, and went on ebay for a cheap 15" with external power brick - possibly with DVI connection.

The few I saw asked too much money, for my taste (this would be my sixth build, after all), but I finally saw an IBM 9493-ag1 for 25 Euros, shipping included.


I checked its service manual, found on-line ( ) , and saw that it had an internal (hidden below a cover) DVI input socket, that went to the outside through a DVI to D-Sub (VGA) cable.

It also had replaceable CCFL lamps (which were likely in need to be replaced, as this is a business monitor and must have logged in 8 hours a day since the day it was bought).

Alas, I didn't peruse the manual long enough, or I would have seen that the LCD is a LG LM151X2-F2MN,  attached to the monitor module through a Hirose DF9-41p connector, and a whole twelve cm or so  (say, 5" in imperial units) of cable.

I so hoped it would be a 30 lines LVDS on a 1mm pitch FFC (like in the three LG monitors that I have opened).   


That is going to bite my ass...

Also, it is a 6 bit LCD (whoops - this wasn't going to be a "main battle Cintiq", anyway, just another "fast selection" screen, if it is not too messy, jitterwise - also, I hope that IBM did a good job with dithering, in the monitor firmware).

It arrived in a couple of days, and I immediately realized that the CCFL were - if not almost dead - very well ripe.

It took a minute or so to reach full brightness, on switch-on, and it wasn't much bright, anyway

I decided to invest some more 9 $ to buy one of those "Upgrade to LED" kits, before opening up the screen.

I am sorry that I did not take pictures of the disassembly of the monitor (extremely well put together... it has more screws and RF cage than those present in all the monitors I dismounted to date), but it is actually detailed in the service manual (so, it would be a a bit redundant).

When I reached finally inside the monitor, I saw the damn "Hirose on a short leash" connection, then saw that the back metal plate of the LCD was simply attached to a white plastic frame, and could be removed without opening the LCD panel (Good).

The CCFL are in pretty sturdy assemblies with a steel beam-channel containing them, and slide in-out of the panel pretty easily - so I could replace them with the LED bars, in a matter of an hour or so, ONCE I understood which cables are what.

In fact, instead of the 4 cables I expected, the inverter assembly - a Samsung LG1501 - was connected to the monitor's module with a ten pin connector, and ten individual lines (note: even if on my monitor, a permanent marker line marked the monitor module side, it doesn't matter if one's inverts the head or tail of the ten-lines, as they are flipped in the travel from one side to another)

Initially, I was perplexed, however a couple of continuity tests at monitor unplugged from the power grid and some final corroboration with it switched on and off, gave this pretty simple pin-out

     +5V       What the hell are these for?

     0V - GND
     0V - GND
     +4.9 V (on) / 0V (off )  -  enable , or enable+d¡m? I failed to see any difference in the value, though, when I dimmed down the brightness

     -0.1  V (Huh??)

     0V - GND
     0V - GND

Notable miss: which is the damn dim line? No idea.

I removed the LCD backplate; probably, sanding/filing down the plastic sprockets that hold it in place could lower its height 1-1.5 mm.

However, I saw something that just a couple of years ago would have been a snafu, for me - it has two PCBs, one folded back for the column driver, a more components heavy one for the row driver, connected by a 20 lines, 0.5mm pitch flexible PCB.


I bought and extender, from an Italian seller, and some 15cm (note: it is a bit tight; it would be better some ten cm, or so, more) of the correspondent FFC.

Once I got the extender and the FFC, I folded out the main PCB, and extended the lines of one CCFL, to see if this mod works.

It does.



(Note that, at full brightness, Photoshop retouch wasn't needed to see around the screen)

Yesterday I received the LED kit, and I proceeded to replace the CCFL.

(Retouched with Photoshop; even this way, the "aura" of the screen, with the LED, is well visible.)

It works as expected, at least twice as bright as before, but at the moment I have no dimming whatsoever.

Someone has any idea / suggestion?  
41  Screen Tablet malarky / Heyaaaalpppp / Re: Laptop screen to wacom cintiqfor drawing on: June 21, 2017, 12:51:32 PM
Note... I checked the TCon heats up, on my builds too.

I wouldn't be too worried about it, apart that it becomes a mess to work on them when the weather is warm.

Pens and screen borders is often a bit of a mess... typically, one must accept that the pen will "go away" in the area near the horizontal or vertical border of the tablet.

The best you can do is to calibrate it so that the pen is reasonably accurate in the widest possible area... not being able to go on the borders complicates a tiny bit the calibration.

Check the Simtiq planner   ( ) to have an idea of the initial values.

Given the data of your screen, you should reduce the projection on the screen some 60 pixeels for each side (so, left, 60, right 1860) and see how it goes  from there.

(in your case, you have to change the screen projection, not the tablet area, to tune the X axis )

42  Screen Tablet malarky / Heyaaaalpppp / Re: Laptop screen to wacom cintiqfor drawing on: June 20, 2017, 12:22:03 AM
For the LCD, it depends on the kind of modifications you had to do to it to let the pens signal go through.

If you had to eliminate stuff that could act as an heat-sink, it's actual temperature is probably higher than the original (and optimal), so adding an heat-sink for the led strip could be a good idea.

If it is hot the TCon-Board... are you sure the Converter board is supplying the right voltage to the panel?

On the side of the converter board, I  am a bit more dubious... but, then again, I never checked the temperature of the controller boards in my builds (of the 5, three were actual desktop monitors, so compatibility among the various parts was a given).

I never noticed them to get "very hot" - using  thermometer to get a temperature could give some hard facts on which guess - , though.
43  Screen Tablet malarky / Heyaaaalpppp / Re: Laptop screen to wacom cintiqfor drawing on: June 19, 2017, 11:20:14 PM
A 15.6" is a 16:9 LCD which is wider than the active area of an Intuos 4 L, yet shorter than it is... it is a particularly complex situation because you need to calibrate the Table AND the projection on the screen.

My biggest builds are in the same situation, so this may help you...

To build the thing, you can try to place it so that cursor and pen coincide at the centre, then work on one dimension (for example, height, by reducing the tablet active area), then the other (width, you'll have to reduce the projection on screen), then again on the first...

I suggest to place things so that they touch on the middle is, just to help you getting started.

You may revise the build to leave what little active area is free all on one side (because, if you have a screen that is placed where the projection of that "excess" area is, the pen will be able to reach it) but, as you are getting sizes, let it for after (once you got how to calibrate the build - fist time took me 30 minutes, now I do it in a couple of minutes or so).

I usually leave "all on top" -  I keep a small screen above my main drawing machine, where I leave VLC playing some series... I have enough "excess pen area" to go up and click the controls and the seek bar of VLC at full screen.

The most important thing, anyway, is to have screen and digitizer as parallel as possible...

As for the warmth, it is a common problem...If the screen has the LCD strip on only one side, you may decide to leave it in a position that is less bothering;

The Glass is a less than spectacular heat transmitter, so it may help a little, as it could help having an heat-sink of some kind - a plate touching the LCD at/under/around the LED strip, for example... as heat-sink, a simple tape is probably not enough, and something thicker should be better.

Some people also adds little fans ( a computer fan uses the same 12 V most controller boards eat) in an effort to have an air flux to cool things.

Personally, I do not like the added noise, so I avoid them (though, for my UBiQ 2 it would be  - maybe - better to add one, maybe heat-activated)

The cursor does not follow the pen in some spots... if the pen is lost on a vertical band, it may means that there is an inductive coil in the T-Con board at the bottom of the LCD.

Try to raise (carefully! ) the board a bit away from the Intuos (as the ribbons glued to it  and the LCD are the most delicate thing and impossible to fix, getting it more than a couple of cm away - and 45º inclined on the horizontal - is going to be impossible, but that much may be more than enough) .

If you see improvements, with the board "inclined away", then it is probable that building an RF cage enclosing that board could help things.

In case I suggest to build such cage as wide as the area occupied by the vertical antenna lines (which, by the way, are what measures the horizontal  - x axis -position ), not just enough to enclose the board (which is usually quite some cm less).

(I suspect that the fact I did limit mines just to that is the reason why all my builds - that needed that cage - "fritz" at the two vertical borders... The cage acts as a torus antenna, whose field bend in a emi-sphere at the extremes, and the inclined-horizontal field lines there couples with the vertical antennas, making difficult to read the X-Axis position).
44  Screen Tablet malarky / Heyaaaalpppp / Re: Laptop screen to wacom cintiqfor drawing on: June 18, 2017, 08:15:28 PM
Aluminium (or copper) tape, is used most often to  try and build some RF shielding in LCD-Over-Intuos builds, more than anything else. In that use, anyway, it is often a good idea to use it to enclose some non-conductive plastic bag (or some construction akin to it).

A Ertew says, to fix things  non-conductive normal - or double sided - duct tape is better.
45  Screen Tablet malarky / Heyaaaalpppp / Re: Laptop screen to wacom cintiqfor drawing on: June 15, 2017, 01:36:55 PM
If the panel is thin enough, you may not have to disassemble the intuos at all...

I used a build, for a year or so, which was simply a laptop panel with a 2 mm thick glass cover, simply laid above an untouched Intuos4 large.

(It was based on DonShole's TabletMod enclosure specifications - you can find some hints either on the tabletmod site, or on the Ponoko Market page that sells the designs - for laser cut).

I still had some 5 mm of "free air" - only issues, the panel is dim, has narrow viewing angles and lacks colour saturation and contrast.

So, I'd say, strip the panel, place it above the tablet, and see how it goes (note, usually it is a good idea to connect the ground points of the panel with the back plate of the Intuos but, in alternative, one can simply connect it to the USB Gnd line... as the I$ has miniUSB sockets, you can simply  modify a 3$ cable)...

You can always dismantle the Intuos4 (which has its share of advanced features, like those OLED displays and the Touch Ring - a bit finicky, that ) later.

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