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1  Screen Tablet malarky / Build Logs / Re: Foam-tiq, son of Tecra-tiq, a more mobile M4 rendition. Success. on: September 07, 2017, 10:28:33 PM
Hey, thanks for the kind words Aerendraca. For me there's not much to be embarrassed about (outside of my exceptionally poor soldering skills), it's not perfect but I wasn't aiming for it to be production model beautiful. But the places where I felt it could be better can inform people who may take on a similar project. It's light, it's semi-presentable so it works for me. I found a 9v wallwart to take the place of the heavier laptop-like power supply that came with the controller board it seems to work fine.

The one thing that I'd really like to do (and I have the parts to do it) is to group all the wires. Right now the wires span the entire tablet, power on one side, usb on the other, hdmi in the middle. Some day I intend to fit a mini-usb male to micro usb female converter along with a right angle converter, I also have an 360 hdmi extension and will group all the wires in a black mesh cord wrap to keep them better organized and away from hanging about all over the place. It just hasn't been a priority since I can doodle on my laptop at the moment.

I don't know how I would evolve the project outside of making it look nicer here and there, but I'm doubtful of that happening. It was never a huge priority. It seems to be as thin as I could get it, maybe not as light as I could get it since I spackled it, but it's still light. The only things off the top of my head that I can think of that would make a functional difference would be cutting the ribbon cables and resoldering them so that they're the proper length and not all folded, this could allow it to be thinner. (But it's too much trouble for me). Another would be to make the hump in the back (where the controller is stored) out of thin wood. It would again, allow it to be thinner, but I'm unsure at what cost of weight.
2  Screen Tablet malarky / Heyaaaalpppp / eDP controllers on: June 26, 2017, 08:51:49 PM
I'm guessing that no one knows of any universal eDP controllers out there like there are ones for LVDS lcds. I know NJYTouch has some for some popular eDP based screens but it unfortunately runs off 12v. I'm curious about the one from the Abusemark website though. I know some people here have dabbled with them. I'm curious if the Display Port on those boards can be converted to HDMI with the use of a normal DP->HDMI active adapter purchased from anywhere. On their website they sell a "customized" DP adapter or an HDMI revision of the board but both cost quite a bit extra. Anyone have any experience with that?
3  Screen Tablet malarky / Build Logs / Foam-tiq, son of Tecra-tiq, a more mobile M4 rendition. Success. on: June 11, 2017, 11:58:33 PM
My DIY Cintiq was a long time in the making. Mostly due to other things got in the way of me making it and the fact that my LCD controller board blew up. Smoke coming from your electronics is always fun.

Anyways, I used this guide (http://forum.bongofish.co.uk/index.php?topic=2378.0) to make my own. After my controller mishap though I decided to buy one of the infinitely cheaper LCD controllers that can be found on ebay/banggood/aliexpress etc. shown here: https://www.banggood.com/V29-Universal-LCD-Controller-Board-TV-Motherboard-Free-Program-Version-p-975862.html?rmmds=search There are a few different types, theres the v29 that comes is programmable via onboard jumpers, v29 where you use a USB with the correct image to flash the board, and v56 that's essentially the same as the second one but you can use the USB port for other things like watching movies I think. I went with the first board. It costs a little more but I didn't have to deal with any potential headaches regarding finding the right image to flash. These boards are also better than the NJYTouch boards in that, they cost less, can be reprogrammed yourself without the need for a specialized programming board and have a lot more port choices. So you can use your LCD screen for more than only just the PC if you wanted.

I got a 5 button keypad with the prior board. It however didn't work with the v29 board (it can, potentially, but you need to be able to access the service menu and that's only possible with the remote as far as I know) so I had to buy a 7 button keypad (which came wired with an IR sensor. The 7 Button keypad doesn't really seem to work very well (I think the pin out may be incorrect on the pad itself). But hey, it's got the IR sensor, so I use that to access any of the options I need to get to. (https://www.banggood.com/Universal-7-Keys-V29-V59-TV-Switch-Keypad-Board-With-Interface-p-955688.html?rmmds=search)

My main issue when I received the v29 board and hooked it up to the LCD was that it showed inverted colors, my screen looked like a rainbow threw up on it. I thought I had been sent a bum controller. But it turns out, after some help from the people who sold it to me, that there's an option in the service menu that allows for different color profiles. A simple switch of these and the monitor was good to go.

[attachment=1]
Wrong colors.

Per their instructions:
Please to solve the problem by followed steps:

Operate with remote control:
1.Pressing the menu till menu appear on the screen,
2 Press the number key 8896 then display a menu
3 Select SYSTEM SETTING to enter
4 Select Panel Setting 1 2 3 4 .. After normal, press the Escape key.
(Note that the code for entering the system menu on the other boards is different, but I believe the procedure is the same.)

Now I only bought an LCD screen. I didn't have the original case or anything like that... and either way it'd be impossible to fit the new controller board in
there. The biggest challenge was trying to figure out how to orient all of these cables. So that it all fit and worked in the smallest possible form factor. This coupled with the orientation of and where cables entered some of the boards made this maddening.

[attachment=2]
Cable Routing

My case went under several iterations. First it was made out of MDF board, I didn't like it, it was ugly and too heavy. I then moved from that to the foam board that you can get at a craftstore, the kind with the paper on the top and back. I coated these with Polyurethane Resin. It worked ok but it was difficult to shape edges. Over time I came across some ways that industrial designers and prop makers make one-offs using sturdy foam insulation from the hardware store. It's commonly known as "Blue" or "Pink" foam depending on which store you get it at and what the brand is. They're supposed to be about the same just different companies. I went for blue stuff since I felt it would be easier to visualize with than the pink color. Here the blue stuff is soldd by Dow. And has huge letters to that effect. And the pink is sold by Corning, I think. There was also a tab where the LCD and Wacom board screwed into, snipped it and turned the metal tab back on itself to make fitting the bezels easier.

[attachment=3]
It didn't hurt anything thankfully.

The foam is a joy to work with. It's easy to cut with an xacto knife and multiple passes and sands well (though large expanses can be difficult to sand and cause a ton of dust, wear a mask) It doesn't take drilling very well though, so making holes can be an annoyance. To get the orientation of the keypad holes to their approximate points on the foam I took an impression of them with clay then pin-pricked through the clay to mark their positions on the foam. I found a flat surface and turned the drill bit around to the ... non-drilling side and just used manual hand compression to make holes. It worked better than using the drill side but still not great unfortunately. I also had to carve out spaces for places with problem cables or parts that stuck out in the way.

[attachment=4]
Carving

I traced the controller board onto the foam and cut a rectangle out where the board would sit. I flipped the inverter onto the top of the LCD controller so that they fit in tandem with each other. The inverter and the back panel of the red wacom board are both covered with brown paper/aluminium foil/brown paper sandwiched together in the hopes of keeping interference to a minimum (as my prior build with my prior lcd controller went dead wherever the inverter was, the sandwiched aluminum helped a ton).

I hotglued the top and sides of the foam around the inverter and lcd controller making a little box. I tried screwing it into the lower piece of foam, but the foam didn't take being screwed. The boards themselves aren't secured, they're held in my the pressure of the box and the fact that they're attached to stuff.

[attachment=5]
It looks smooth and nicer now that it's done, but it was simply glued pieces of foam.


After all the base foam work was done, I did the rounding of edges with a drill press and some router bits and some sand paper. You could just use sandpaper though. And was finally coated with spackle that was sanded down. The spackle acts both a hole filler for a the pourous foam and as a barrier for the spray paint that would come next. Spray paint contains things that could melt the foam, so the barrier is needed. Though the places where I oversprayed remained fine.

[attachment=6]
Spackled and Painted

The bezels are made of wood that I made via a tablesaw. They're basically just shallow L shapes that can be screwed into from the back of the foam to hold the whole thing together. As I said the foam wouldn't take screwing so the wood has the grip to hold it all together.

[attachment=7]
Done (Now if only I didn't need to plug in 3 separate wires)
 Cheesy

I don't know if anyone else has made a monitor out of foam, but I wanted to give back to the community with this write up, especially for those who don't have a case handy. I wanted something somewhat portable, I didn't want to have to be stuck at a desk with it if I don't have to. It's not the most portable thing in the world but it's nice not to have to have it mounted or have the parts hanging out for all to see. So I wanted to throw this up as a bit of a proof of concept.

Had I to do it over again:

-Find some magical way of making good holes on the foam for the buttons

-I probably wouldn't have spackled it, spackle is heavy (even the little bit I used) and I feel like the LCD is considerably more heavy than it was with just bare foam. It feels more rugged, but it's still susceptible to pokes marring it just like the foam was.

-Coat it with gesso or PVA glue to seal it instead of spackle then spray paint over that. It'd probly keep the weight down.

-Be more careful! I cut one side too near the screw hole and I sanded some parts of the back more shallow than the rest of it, so its a bit uneven. Same with the spackling job, it's uneven, but I didn't feel like caking it on since it's heavy stuff and I just didn't care anymore. Anyone who is invested in making it look really good though, could. For me functional is fine, it's a tool.

-Getting the Mini USB into the Teensy is annoying, I'll be adding a Mini USB extension that will just always remain in it, that way I can just plug into that.

-Round the bezels or not round the bezels, that is the question, I opted not to... for now.

-The screen exhibited some slightly wavy lines intermittenly when plugged into VGA, this didn't actually effect the pen strokes themselves however. Plugging into HDMI I haven't seen these wavy lines come back as of yet.

-Find somewhere to put that stupid inverter wire.

Shout outs:

A gent here from the community helped me way back when I started with my complete lack of soldering skills by essentially gifting me a Teensy in exchange for the one I couldn't get to work. In my pitiful soldering attempts I screwed the thing up so he was left with nothing. He knows who he is, and I'm still grateful to him. So my offer of buying him a new teensy should he need one still stands.

I caught up with thatcomicsguy who wrote the original Tecra M4 build when I was trying to get things to work. He tried to help out as well, I thank him too for his kindness and his wonderful write up. Without the two of you making my monitor would've have been possible.
4  Screen Tablet malarky / Tablet Conversion to USB / Re: Pro Micro advice... on: June 14, 2016, 02:17:08 AM
I have to hand it to Pesho. He helped me out greatly in private and now I have a working tablet screen. I can only assume that something has gone wrong with the board or my soldering on it despite everything seeming to check out correctly. I wanted to thank everyone for their input but I owe Pesho a great debt of gratitude Smiley
5  Screen Tablet malarky / Tablet Conversion to USB / Re: Pro Micro advice... on: May 29, 2016, 06:36:50 PM
I decided to try the second monitor I have (same type), same damn problem. The problem has to be either the teensy board or something deeper down I'd think. Though the board doesn't show any signs of being bad.
6  Screen Tablet malarky / Tablet Conversion to USB / Re: Pro Micro advice... on: May 29, 2016, 08:10:58 AM
Tried installing on a fresh Windows 7 x64 and Windows 7 x86, still nothing. Using Bernard's .hex on both operating systems also didn't install correctly giving me the ! sign in Device Manager. The .hex however did install fine in Windows 10, still don't know what to do with RealTerm to get it to read something though.
7  Screen Tablet malarky / Tablet Conversion to USB / Re: Pro Micro advice... on: May 28, 2016, 11:55:37 PM
ThinWhiteDuke, voltage at Your Teensy in OK. Please check voltages at RX and TX pins of Teensy and on VCC, GND, RX and TX at the digitizer (bring some needles and probe to digitizer connector).
If You have 3.3v between VCC and GND at the digitizer board and 3.3v between RX/TX and any GND, that soldering should be OK. If any voltage missing, you may have problem there.

Checked this, 3.3v at everything compared to ground. I would like to do Bernard's suggestion, but I'm having trouble finding tutorials on using the .hex file. If advised I will do it.
8  Screen Tablet malarky / Tablet Conversion to USB / Re: Pro Micro advice... on: May 28, 2016, 09:59:20 PM
Hi Ertew, are you wanting me to check them while it's plugged into the digitizer board? Or unplugged from the digitzer board and stick needles in the connector holes?
9  Screen Tablet malarky / Tablet Conversion to USB / Re: Pro Micro advice... on: May 27, 2016, 07:03:15 AM
I will try to find these tutorials and get back to you, probly tomorrow. I have what should be the max x/y sizes from the tutorial I posted from this site using the same screen and digitizer board. Seems like it should work. But doesn't. I'll keep trying.

edit: Right now I can add that within the wacom tools, going to about -> Diagnose. Everything is grayed out except pen pressure. But pen pressure doesn't do anything either.
10  Screen Tablet malarky / Heyaaaalpppp / Re: Tecra M4 tablet pc help... on: May 27, 2016, 07:00:10 AM
Hi Bernard, Kind of unsure where to reply since I have two threads running  I'm guessing it should be working correctly, as I asked another user about this very board and he gave me a walkthrough that he did to get his to run correctly at 3.3v. It looks like there is a 16mhz crystal right next to reset button on the board though, yes.
11  Screen Tablet malarky / Tablet Conversion to USB / Re: Pro Micro advice... on: May 24, 2016, 11:08:57 PM
Well, I soldered it again. I think this is the 5th or 6th time now. And I checked voltage with a multimeter. One probe on ground I checked VCC and the others. All supplied 3.3v.

Update: I decided to try installing the drivers on an old Windows XP computer I have. Same response. Nothing. >:|
12  Screen Tablet malarky / Tablet Conversion to USB / Re: Pro Micro advice... on: May 23, 2016, 10:13:28 PM
Hi Ertew. Problems 1 and 2 are cleared as you can see Device Manager picks it up and the Wacom drivers pick up the tablet as well.

You state as with Pesho that the Soldering joints are most likely the issue. I'm guessing that this means if I desolder everything again then Teensy should still show up in Device Manager and the Wacom drivers should still register the tablet and the sole issue is with the connectivity between the wires and the tablet screen itself?

One issue is that I don't even know if the tablet screens are working correctly themselves. I bought two of them, supposedly taken from working computers. I would say that they must work to some extent at least given that they tracked the cursor the first time I tried. If nothing else I'll use this teensy board as something to practice soldering on Smiley
13  Screen Tablet malarky / Tablet Conversion to USB / Re: Pro Micro advice... on: May 23, 2016, 02:51:18 AM
Thank you Pesho I appreciate your help. I will try to give the board a once over cleaning with some alcohol and try to solder the wires again in a day or two. I'm doubtful that the issue now is completely due to my admittedly shoddy soldering job since my first shot at soldering it gave at least some kind of response. If this is the issue then I guess we can blame that on beginner's luck Wink
14  Screen Tablet malarky / Tablet Conversion to USB / Re: Pro Micro advice... on: May 22, 2016, 11:01:35 PM
Yeah, this was kind of a last ditch effort this last time. Not my finest work. I've tried soldering it as strands like in this picture, in shorter strands the first time (when it kind of worked) and all the other times I ran the wires through the holes hooked the holes then twisted them then soldered the holes. All resulted in the same behavior. I think maybe I screwed up the board somewhere along the way.

I've tried to have proper technique, it never really works for me unfortunately. The solder seems to love my soldering iron and doesn't want to stick to the board so I have to continuously fight with it. I've seen other soldering techniques where they heat the board first then dot the solder on the board, I don't understand this either. How do they know they aren't overheating the board in the first place?
15  Screen Tablet malarky / Tablet Conversion to USB / Re: Pro Micro advice... on: May 22, 2016, 07:10:17 PM
Here are some images, if you'd like something more let me know. I've soldered and resoldered this thing too many times to count with varying degrees of decent looking soldering joints but the outcome after the first test has been the same.

Here's an short album of photos: http://imgur.com/a/hHeQ7
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