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1  Screen Tablet malarky / Tablet Conversion to USB / Re: Converting Wacom UD-1212-R from Serial to USB on: March 13, 2017, 10:35:26 PM
1. Pro micro and clones are incompatible with Teensya 2.0 There are two problems: pinout (different pin names, not big deal) and bootloader (arduino bootloader suck). Rest (uC, crystal, USB section) are almost identical.
I tried to program old WaxBee into pro micro. With success. But I need external programmer to do that. More info here: http://forum.bongofish.co.uk/index.php?topic=2556.0
Newer WaxBee version have smaller size thus You can use arduino bootloader that are inside pro micro. Just programming process are different. WaxBee can program teensy or generate hex file. You need manually call AvrDude with specific parameters. That's probably the most important difference.

2. You need working EMR pen. Original Wacom pen will be excellent as long as it working (moisture and time may destroy everything). Replacement pen may working too but I never played with that.
2  Screen Tablet malarky / Build Logs / Re: Ribbitiq - trying not to break everything. on: March 13, 2017, 09:52:36 PM
Well. Diffuser have direction because LEDs are only at one side. If You 'fix' the problem by removing silver tape and glue it on the other side, the diffuser will still spread more light on right side and less on left.

Yes, when You move LED strip, You need to rotate diffuser layer.
What about upper layers? IMO You need to rotate only diffuser section which may contain only 'glass' or 'glass' and single sheet above. You can easy test all layers. If layer have different structure/density at different regions it's part of diffuser. If layer have the same structure at any point, it may be lens or something similar. You not need to rotate that.
And please pay attention to layers order and top side. If You mess with that, You will never found the right order.

BTW, why You need to rotate backlight and all optical layers? IMO You can rotate LCD glass without moving frame and backlight, then rotate whole module.
3  Screen Tablet malarky / Build Logs / Re: Ribbitiq - trying not to break everything. on: March 12, 2017, 05:30:34 PM
Edit: The thing that is bugging me the most right now is the placement of the LED strip. At the moment I only manage a "visible, but quite dark" setup, especially at the right side (LED is on the left) of the screen it is very dark. I guess that has to do with finding the best height so the LEDs shine directly into the diffuser layer.
Does anyone know, if "closing" the other three sides (with black tape etc) so no light can escape would improve things?

If I understand You right, You have a problem with backlight diffuser. LEDs are on left and left side are far more brighter than the right side.
Yes, there are may be problem with alignment - LEDs emit light above diffuser, maybe directly at one of focusing layers. Proper diffuser should reflect small amount of light (from high light beam) at left side, more (from moderate light beam) at the middle and all remaining light (smallest light beam) at the right side.

The escaping light shuldn't be a problem. IMHO light leakage at remaining 3 sides will be less than 10%. Reflecting them back shouldn't improve the overall effect.
If light leakage disturb You (by illuminating buttons or desk), black tape are OK for catch the light. In Your case You may check something reflective to reflect light back into panel - silver tape or at least white tape.
4  Screen Tablet malarky / Heyaaaalpppp / Re: diy cintiq with fujitsu T5010 screen on: February 22, 2017, 11:22:59 PM
I cannot found here any information about USB->serial converter nor USB CDC class (standard for serial adapters). USB descriptors looks like valid for USB tablet, not like tablet attached to serial converter.
I'm not specialist for USB descriptors but text "ISD-V4" looks like name for USB device, like mouse have "USB Laser Mouse" or keyboard "DELL Keybord".
Last thing, just gogle for "ISD-V4". I found zero useful results but a lot of results for "ISDV4" - this is the standard protocol for serial tablets.
So, have a good luck.

EDIT:

Forgot about "8 wires".
If You found twisted pair, You found USB interface. Connect it directly, swap wire if not work.
Next, use multimeter with continuity tester. Connector shield and testpads 'GND', 'AGND', 'DGND' are ground. '3.3VA', '3.3VD' are supply voltage. You must found at least two wires connected to supply rails.
So You should have 4 unidentified wires. If Your laptop working, You can measure voltage on that pins. This pins may be used for diagnostic, detection if Your laptop have digitizer installed (simple jumper at digitizer board), power management and on/off switching (separate for pen and touch) or just information 'pen in use' / 'touch in use'.
5  Screen Tablet malarky / Heyaaaalpppp / Re: diy cintiq with fujitsu T5010 screen on: February 20, 2017, 09:12:31 PM
Ok, I see that images on android web browser. I wonder why images doesn't appear on standard FF.
Never mind.

akromatic:
1. Last image looks promising. Especially that single white wire. In my T5010 I found 6 white wires and a lot of black ones. Each white equal single twisted pair (one white and one black wire twisted together) and two of them are USB ports (camera and fingerprint reader).
You should remove some of that silver shielding cable (be extremely careful, this wires may be delicate) and look at tablet wires exposed at longer distance. If I'm right, You'll find single twisted pair (USB) and 6 untwisted black wires (power, control).

2. Look here: http://gentoo-en.vfose.ru/wiki/Fujitsu_Lifebook_T731
That's one of reasons why I love Linux community. Complete hardware scan of Your laptop. Now I'm 99% sure that You have USB tablet.

3. If this tablet have USB interface You need (BOM):
- LVDS converter,
- Right cable between LCD and converter,
- USB connector for tablet (example link), (example link),
- 3.3V supply (LDO) for tablet (example link).
(or something like this for both USB and LDO: (example link))

4. To make forum clean I report Your post (Reply #5) as offtopic. IMHO this topic should be split. First topic for T5010 (unfinished build) and second for T731 - still pending.
6  Screen Tablet malarky / Heyaaaalpppp / Re: diy cintiq with fujitsu T5010 screen on: February 19, 2017, 12:36:28 PM
Cannot see any images.
The LVDS converter almost always comes with standard cable. But there are many standards over the world. You should ask seller for the right connector and right cable length. If not You will need to buy extra cable or cut both cables (one from laptop and one from converter) then solder them together.
7  Screen Tablet malarky / Heyaaaalpppp / Re: diy cintiq with fujitsu T5010 screen on: February 16, 2017, 08:11:56 PM
fair enough, i have another fujitsu T731 which has 2 finger touch which got me wondering. still as far as touch is concerned cant i just get a 13.3 or larger capacitive touch module and calibrate it to fit? or maybe something like the AirBar
I don't like touch interface and I never investigate how it can be connected to the computer. Sorry, no help this time.
And BTW, You need touch screen with USB. WaxBee should accept serial input signal with touch frames but cannot emulate USB touchscreen. So all touch frames will be erased.
Just few clicks and I found this: http://www.ebay.com/bhp/capacitive-touch-panel
I will never guide You for right digitizer but I can show You all bad digitizers.
Touch digitizer (resistive, capacitive and other types Wink ) always contain 'glass' (transparent plastic), connecting tape and controller. Glass with just external tape are bad because You not get connector and controller. Everything without 'USB' tag are bad because required extra controller or are dedicated for specific system.
For example few good digitizers:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/HD-10-1-1280x800-IPS-Capacitive-Touch-LCD-Panel-2AV-VGA-HDMI-USB-Driver-Board-/381724025936
http://www.ebay.com/itm/13-3-inch-USB-Multi-Capacitive-Touch-Screen-Digitizer-Panel-for-16-9-LCD-Panel-/201744630396




Now something about Your last post. On the photo I see only one digitizer board, probably for the touchscreen. You should have two boards, separate for EMR digitizer and capacitive digitizer. Please include photo with missing board and cable - maybe I can deduct something from cable pinout.
Next, I not like cable for LCD. I cannot see any twisted pairs. If this cable are made of individually shielded wires You almost cannot reuse it because soldering this wires may be impossible. If I have right, You need to buy LVDS cabe for this LCD or LVDS converter board with cable included.
Last, I not like that LVDS converter board. The reason are simply. Converter board have separate output for LED backlight - the yellowish connector on top-left corner on main picture. You should connect LED backlight directly here, without backlight driver. But Your LCD have build-in driver for backlight. I don't know how to deal with this issue.

Here You have better LVDS converter board:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/HDMI-DVI-VGA-Audio-LCD-Controller-Board-Kits-for-LP171WU3-TLA1-1920-1200-DIY/251245294220
Of course You need to find converter with right resolution and right cable. Happy searching...
8  Screen Tablet malarky / Heyaaaalpppp / Re: How to protect iPad 3 screen on: February 14, 2017, 08:38:45 PM
Any conductive loop will give jetter or other distortions.
As far as I know, capacitive digitizer contain conductive paths with strange shapes but that shapes should never create a loop.
So in most cases this digitizer shouldn't make any interferences. But You must test it Yourself. I cannot do it for You.
9  Screen Tablet malarky / Heyaaaalpppp / Re: diy cintiq with fujitsu T5010 screen on: February 14, 2017, 08:32:45 PM
In my language:
DC/DC is a step mode voltage converter. This part contain inductor and have great efficiency, 80% or above. Thanks to inductor, input and output current wasn't equal. This part can only decrease voltage (buck or step-down) or only increase voltage (boost or step-up), depend what type You chose. You need minimum 2V difference between input and output.
LDO is a low DropOut voltage stabilizer. This does not contain inductor, can only decrease voltage but can operate with small voltage difference between input and output. Input and output current are almost the same. The dropout voltage multiplied by current gives You power losses that LDO must dissipate by heating air.

[attachment=1]

Here are fast block diagram for Your tablet and circuit schematic for Teensy.
Teensy schematic should be obvious. You need to add LDO that generates 3.3V (or 3.0V or 3V, really doesn't matter) for Wacom digitizer. Modifications in red circles.

In the LVDS converter I skipped audio amplifier and in/out ports to keep diagram cleaner. Apart from audio, converter also contain power supply part, main IC and a lot of connectors.
First please ignore red crosses and arrows. Whole converter (except LCD backlight and maybe audio amplifier) are powered from 5V generated locally on board. LCD glass are powered form 3.3V or 5V. The 12V option are only for special rare screens, not for Your (and mine) HV133WX1 panel.

To make first test You need to solder few things on Teensy and connect few plugs to LVDS converter, that's all.

Next (if everything works) You can try to modify LVDS converter to accept external 5V supply. All according to red lines. DC/DC can be bypassed by just shorting it's input to output. I draw two 5V lines from PC (two USB ports). You can use 5V powerbank or mains adapter if they have enough output current.
10  Screen Tablet malarky / Heyaaaalpppp / Re: diy cintiq with fujitsu T5010 screen on: February 13, 2017, 09:46:14 PM
i heard about waxbee and teensy on the forums

what do you mean by both option is possible? does the screen support direct usb or its serial only? I will be using a more modern OS, ie win 7/8/10. im not sure what version that is on the T731 but it also shows up as a ISDv4 device but its over USB and im using windows 8 on it.

im not too sure what a waxbee converter is or how to wire it up besides it being a serial to usb. im assuming that a rs323 adaptor to usb wont work and if waxbee is a serial to usb converter i dont need a teensy?

is serial over bluetooth a possibility?
You read something about this method so I think that You know the possible solutions and differences.
By writing both I mean simple USB->serial converter and WaxBee converter.

Back to beginning. Wacom makes 'industrial' tablets, 'artistic' tablets (including old cintiq) and computers equipped with EMR digitizer (looks similar to cintiq, maybe share the same name).
Artistic tablet is a stand-alone device. Industrial is bare EMR digitizer build-in into tablet-PC or similar devices.
Artistic tablets with ADB or serial interface are now obsolete. Linux have drivers(*1) for them in repository thus anyone can download, compile and use it at any device. Of course Wacom release drivers(*2) for all version windows but that was years ago. The top available was win XP and this was the latest OS with official drivers.
*1 - reverse-engineered drivers, made by fans.
*2 - official divers from Wacom, closed source.
Artistic tablets with USB are actual standard. Wacom provide drivers for windows for all of these devices. Of course linux community making their own drivers(*1) for all new models within few months.

And here comes WaxBee. As You found it's a program that run on Teensy. You can name it software but for me it's a embedded firmware. This firmware allow You to read packets from old tablet (especially ADB ones) and send it to computer via USB.
Just hold her for two second. WaxBee runs at ATmega32U4. This uC have universal USB device that can present itself as almost any type of hardware. Because of that, WaxBee can present to the computer as regular USB->serial converter (compatible with Linux) or in this case, WaxBee can mimic regular Wacom tablet with USB interface (compatible with almost anything).
BTW, Pro Micro is a nice board with ATmega32U4 and shitty bootloader. I like this device because it's a lot cheaper than Teensy. But please do not buy that. It's easy to brick bootloader and You need working Arduino board or external AVR programmer to fix bricked bootloader.
Teensy 2.0 is similar board with the same ATmega32U4 but a lot more robust bootloader and higher price. The best choice for newbies.

Ok, bact to topic. What about industrial tablets? There are 3 types of them.
Bare digitizer with USB interface should work out of the box. Just found the right pins, voltage and solder USB socket.
Bare digitizer with serial interface is similar to artistic tablet with serial interface. WaxBee can handle it, Wacom drivers (for XP only) can handle it and of course Linux can too.
Third way is digitizer with touch. In fact these are two separate devices, where EMR digitizer block touch screen when detect pen proximate. I give them special place because often these devices are chained. One of them have serial output, second have serial input and output to the motherboard. Second output may be serial or USB, so screen with touch gives higher chance to found USB device inside.

And back to serial digitizers. Probably all windows from XP to 10 have build-in drivers for tablet-PC. But as I deduct so far, these drivers are assigned to specific serial port on specific motherboard. As You wrote, You have T731 and W8, no problems with drivers. I have the same with ST5111 and W7. Both digitizers are found by OS and have native support even without installing Wacom software. So far no one found how it's done thus we should forgot about this solution.




fair enough, i have another fujitsu T731 which has 2 finger touch which got me wondering. still as far as touch is concerned cant i just get a 13.3 or larger capacitive touch module and calibrate it to fit? or maybe something like the AirBar
I don't like touch interface and I never investigate how it can be connected to the computer. Sorry, no help this time.
And BTW, You need touch screen with USB. WaxBee should accept serial input signal with touch frames but cannot emulate USB touchscreen. So all touch frames will be erased.




BTW2, You cannot use pen directly on LCD. You need some glass or plexi layer on it. Do You have original case for the screen? 
yeh i saved the cables but unfortunately i've debezeled it and tossed the frame. i did however saved the clear front plastic protective screen. why cant i draw directly on the screen besides the obvious scratching? afaik the plastic in front is not wired or anything and the wacom uses magnetic resonance so wouldnt distancing the pen from the digitizer have adverse effects?
1. Plastic cover LCD from scratches.
2. LCD does not like any force. Even if You not scratch surface, You will see rainbow around pen tip. Next You can easily draw black or white line on LCD surface. This line will disappear within seconds or minutes but it disturbing.
3. The friction. Try to draw with Wacom pen or regular pencil over paper, gum, wood, glass. Original cover are optimized for drawing, substitutes may not.
4. Optimal distance between pen and EMR digitizer wasn't zero. If You decrease distance, whole system may be unstable. I have that issue during first test without plastic cover on.






LVDS are simply and robust interface. You have two types of LVDS converters. One are easy to configure and play. Second one need special programmer and usually seller program it according to Your demand. I prefer first type, bought directly from china.
You can easily found "HV133WX1-100 pdf" - complete manual how to connect this screen. Your screen need GND, 2 supplies, 4 twisted pairs of image signal and two signals for dimming backlight.
BTW, it's very nice that You have cable and connector for the LCD. It save You a lot of work with matching LCD connector.

well wouldnt the controller board have me sorted as far as wirering and powering the screen is concerned?
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/HDMI-DVI-VGA-Audio-Lcd-controller-board-for-13-3inch-1280x800-HV133WX1-Lcd-panel-/360727292242
I doesn't understand what You write here but I see the link.
You found very nice set that include cable for the LCD. With this set You can forgot about rewiring original LCD cable (You still need to rewire cable for digitizer). For me the only drawback is the fixed resolution. For You it's ideal solution, no programming and playing with jumpers.

I have the same screen.
- Glass (whole LCD except backlight) need 3.3V and about 0.5A. HDMI->LVDS converter will need similar amount of power, depend on model. WaxBee and digitizer should consume less than 0.05A. It might be possible to power all these parts from single USB port (LVDS converter directly from 5V, glass from DC/DC step-down converter, digitizer from separate 3.3V LDO).
- Backlight (bare LEDs) need about 20V and 4W of power. LCD panel contain DC/DC step-up converter for backlight. This converter need input with range 5..20V so 5V from USB will be just enough. But it's 4W of power so You need second USB socket or wall adapter for that.

can i just say that 5A 2A is enough to drive the whole setup? thinking 5V off a USB port on the computer to drive the digitizer and waxbee and maybe a second USB port to power just the screen using a 5V to 12V booster. I'm assuming the LVDS controller has the necessary boosters etc to drive the screen and backlighting on its own as the one im looking at demands a 12V input which i'm going to use a 5V setup to.

i'll figure a way to minimize cables but it would be nice to have the option to power it off a 5V2A power bank.
For converter and glass:
I think about much simpler LVDS board, like this one: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/MT6820-B-10-Inch-To-42-Inch-5V-Universal-LVDS-LCD-Monitor-Driver-Controller-Board/1000001190673.html
This board required (and have) 5V input and can be powered from USB, powerbank or external supply.
The board You chose also working from 5V supply but does not have 5V input. Your board have 12V input (in fact 7-20V input) and build-in step-down dc/dc converter. You need to bypass that converter to power it from external 5V.
Let me draw some schematics tomorrow. This will be easier to explain.
For backlight:
You need to test that backlight will run from 5V. If yes, You can power it from USB or powerbank. But beware on long cables with high voltage drop. You need 4W, that's about 1A from USB while regular PC port should provide only 0.5A. If backlight cannot run from USB 5V, extra dc/dc converter cannot help. You need external 9V or 12V supply.

My solution for You: forget about 5V option. Run LVDS converter from 12V supply and power backlight from LVDS converter. This should save You a lot of time, problems and perhaps extra money for burned components. This also reduce wires inside tablet. Only drawback, You need 12V supply - power adapter, portable laptop charger or at least 12V battery.




Wiring for the digitizer are included in my build log. You need 3.3V power supply for digitizer. Then connect digitizer TX to Teensy RX and Teensy TX to digitizer RX. Both wires should have signal level converters. Next step: download WaxBee software (java required), generate firmware for Teensy and program it. I use Penenabled ISDV4 to Intuos2 12x18.tmpl.txt template without modifications. It works but still need some tweaks to fill whole screen. If Teensy are recognized by the OS, You should install drivers and test digitizer. Finally tweak digitizer resolution (WaxBee config options), program Teensy and that's should be all for digitizer.

here im confused again, what do i need exactly to drive the digitizer? because i thought waxbee is all i need.

I have looked into your thread but im just lost there. newb friendly hand holding guides is welcomed. i'm handy with electronics and soldering but new to programming micro controllers

i'll assume that controller board has me sorted for the screen itself so i will need a BOM for the digitizer part, some wireing diagrams and what ever i need for windows to understand it. I'm kinda hoping that its pretty straight forward plug and play as far as windows in concern apart from the basic driver package.

the way you are doing it is going to treat the screen as an intuos? not sure whats the difference to one directly attached to windows in its original form as a penable tablet.


sorry im not really experienced in the world of wacom and drawing tablets. I've only used One by wacom and a few penable tablets like the fujitsu and surface and thought it would be nice to have a pen enabled screen attached to my desktop for writing and sketching.


PS: NVM, i think i have a better understanding now, teensy is the controller and waxbee is the software layer. still something hands holding would help me better. do i need a specific teensy version and can i get 3.3v off the teensy or i need to get a DC step down

so... based off your pictures , i only need 4 wires in total off the wacom controller.

pin 9 RX and pin 10 TX into teensy's TX and RX respectively. pin 13 to its own 3.3v source (unless i can pinch that off the teensy) and pin 14 to ground.

teensy would need its own USB connection and 5v over USB.
For tablet You need 3.3V supply and serial interface with 3.3V voltage levels. By default Teensy work at 5V. In basic configuration You may need:
- Teensy 2.0,
- any 3.3V regulator (LDO, not the dc/dc),
- level converter,
- wires to connect everything.

If You are little advanced, You can modify Teensy to run at 3.3V by adding certain chip (3.3V LDO) and use this as power source for tablet. In this case You not need level converter, just:
- Teensy 2.0,
- MCP1825 chip,
- wires to connect everything,
- instructions that can be found here: http://forum.bongofish.co.uk/index.php?topic=2325.msg19054#msg19054
It's more elegant to chose second option with only 4 wires between Teensy and digitizer, nothing more around.

And instruction step by step.
1. Get Teensy. Modify from 5V to 3.3V. Connect it to the PC.
2. Get WaxBee software. Chose right template. In 'raw config editor' switch CPU clock from 16Mhz to 8Mhz. Program Teensy from WaxBee software.
3. Teensy should be visible as Wacom tablet. If You not have drivers for it, download from Wacom website.
4. Unplug Teensy. Connect digitizer to Teensy. Reconnect USB cable. Test how the digitizer works.
5. WaxBee doesn't math size of Your digitizer. Edit digitizer size in WaxBee config options and upload firmware again. After few tries You should find the right values. OR wait until I finish my mechanic part and start playing with programming.
11  Screen Tablet malarky / Build Logs / Re: Fujitsu T5010 - utilize screen from Tablet-PC on: February 12, 2017, 02:36:03 PM
Part 3a - mechanical things

I have complete screen case.
WaxBee and LVDS converter won't fit here. Thus I add extra space made of plywood.
I chose TSUMv59 (very nice thing) and Pro Micro (cheaper than Teensy and not much harder to use) and made case designed for them.

Two parts of plywood + rubber feet:
[attachment=1] [attachment=2]

Position of both converters:
[attachment=3]

All extra parts together (wrong angle between plywood parts):
[attachment=4]

All together:
[attachment=5] [attachment=6]

And display on right angle:
[attachment=7]
Looks like ready to use.
12  Screen Tablet malarky / Build Logs / Re: Fujitsu T5010 - utilize screen from Tablet-PC on: February 12, 2017, 02:14:27 PM
Here are pinout for the digitizer (based on bongofish wiki page).
In facts, You need only 4 cables. Extra pin marked LED change state when digitizer detect pen. Nice gadget but not important.
[attachment=1]
Pin 1 is on the middle of the board, pin 14 on the edge. You may see small white numbers 1 and 14 right next to pins.
It's the 'industrial'* digitizer with 3.3V serial interface and ISDv4 protocol.

[attachment=2]
And it's my test cable, compatible with breakout board. You may see this on first post.
Nothing special, just enough for the first test. I decided to run and test all electronic, then disassembly it and start building from mechanical case.
13  Screen Tablet malarky / Heyaaaalpppp / Re: diy cintiq with fujitsu T5010 screen on: February 12, 2017, 01:35:02 PM
You can follow my build. It's not finished yet but should help You a lot.


My goal is to create a HDMI enabled screen with pen input and touch if the screen supports it.
Sorry. Your digitizer support only EMR stylus (standard Wacom pen). No touch in this model.


Hopefully i can connect the wacom over USB(serial to usb?)
If You have Linux or Win XP, both options are possible. Newer windows doesn't have drivers for serial tablets. You need WaxBee converter.


and preferable power the screen using USB power(5v to 12v DC boost converter?)
I have the same screen.
- Glass (whole LCD except backlight) need 3.3V and about 0.5A. HDMI->LVDS converter will need similar amount of power, depend on model. WaxBee and digitizer should consume less than 0.05A. It might be possible to power all these parts from single USB port (LVDS converter directly from 5V, glass from DC/DC step-down converter, digitizer from separate 3.3V LDO).
- Backlight (bare LEDs) need about 20V and 4W of power. LCD panel contain DC/DC step-up converter for backlight. This converter need input with range 5..20V so 5V from USB will be just enough. But it's 4W of power so You need second USB socket or wall adapter for that.
 

I cant seemed to find much info on how to do this beyond the wacom is most likely serial and i need a lvds controller for the screen.

not sure how to wire up the wacom side of things but i know i can find a controller board for the screen off ebay but im unsure about the power demands.
LVDS are simply and robust interface. You have two types of LVDS converters. One are easy to configure and play. Second one need special programmer and usually seller program it according to Your demand. I prefer first type, bought directly from china.
You can easily found "HV133WX1-100 pdf" - complete manual how to connect this screen. Your screen need GND, 2 supplies, 4 twisted pairs of image signal and two signals for dimming backlight.
BTW, it's very nice that You have cable and connector for the LCD. It save You a lot of work with matching LCD connector.
BTW2, You cannot use pen directly on LCD. You need some glass or plexi layer on it. Do You have original case for the screen?


i heard about waxbee and teensy on the forums but i dont know how to go about it so some tutorial and guides would be helpful in pointing me in the right direction
Wiring for the digitizer are included in my build log. You need 3.3V power supply for digitizer. Then connect digitizer TX to Teensy RX and Teensy TX to digitizer RX. Both wires should have signal level converters. Next step: download WaxBee software (java required), generate firmware for Teensy and program it. I use Penenabled ISDV4 to Intuos2 12x18.tmpl.txt template without modifications. It works but still need some tweaks to fill whole screen. If Teensy are recognized by the OS, You should install drivers and test digitizer. Finally tweak digitizer resolution (WaxBee config options), program Teensy and that's should be all for digitizer.


WaxBee software: https://github.com/popbee/waxbee/releases
Wacom tablet drivers: https://www.wacom.asia/tablet-drivers or http://support.wacom.asia/en/tablet-drivers
14  Screen Tablet malarky / Heyaaaalpppp / Re: Control hardware devices with a Wacom Intuos4 and WaxBee on: February 11, 2017, 03:50:04 PM
Wacom serial tablet get X, Y and pressure information, let say 14b resolution. Next, split that bits into few bytes and send to computer as complete frame.
Wacom USB tablet do almost the same things, just pack similar frame into USB frame with it's header, packet-length and checksum.

WaxBee try to speak exactly the same language as original USB tablet. The goal is to use the same Wacom drivers for USB tablets and for WaxBee.
15  Screen Tablet malarky / Heyaaaalpppp / Re: Control hardware devices with a Wacom Intuos4 and WaxBee on: February 11, 2017, 03:21:45 PM
Unfortunately each tablet may have different byte order in the USB frame. Plus Wacom tablets does not have any documentation, all knowledge comes from reverse-engineering.
WaBee is also build based on known devices. WaxBee can emulate any tablet, but out of the box have config files to emulate Intuos2 and Intuos5s. Your Intuos4 definitely have different ID and few extra bytes (buttons, etc) but main parts or communication frame should be the same for a lot of tablet models.

You should search for Linux tablet drivers. Source codes must contain information how to decode frames from many Wacom tablet. Arduino just need to mimic this.
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