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 on: April 05, 2019, 12:14:49 AM 
Started by brunobarbosa - Last post by brunobarbosa

One other recent update, that i found might be useful if someone ends up here - it does not work on all usb ports on my laptop! It seems to only work on the USB 2.0 ports.

I have put on order a driver board for the screen, should be here in a couple of weeks. will update with more details when i get it!

 on: April 03, 2019, 06:32:59 PM 
Started by brunobarbosa - Last post by DaBotz

Nice to hear such a joyous news.

In effect, changing USB cables/ports should be put among the troubleshooting first tips for all builds.

I used to think that they were pretty sturdy/foolproof  (either work or not), but over time I had to concede that they can be as temperamental as any other cable/connection, digital or analogue this  may be, and you confirmed it once more.  

Thanks for updating the thread.

 on: March 27, 2019, 12:46:22 AM 
Started by brunobarbosa - Last post by brunobarbosa
Hi guys!

After having been gone for about 4 years (almost exactly to the day, wow) for the proverbial pack of cigarettes, i was doing some cleanup around the house and found all these parts again and thought i should give it a shot, before i threw them away.

You won't believe what happened - it worked!

I didn't have the usb cable i had used originally and i think that could in part be the problem - i had to use a new one.

I re-read the thread, followed Aerendraca's tips (i still had the 3.3v stepdown curcuit that Aerendraca showed me how to make), and then plugged it in and it just worked!

I'm running a newer laptop now with windows 10, and as soon as i plugged in the digitizer, the windows ink workspace icon showed up on the tray and it just worked!!

Thanks everyone and especially Aerendraca for the help for all these years, and now the project is revived!

I just have to figure out now if i can get the touch controller to work and see if i can find a converter for the screen!

 on: March 09, 2019, 06:17:36 PM 
Started by Aerendraca - Last post by DaBotz
1. Almost No Jitters
2. 1-1.5
3. Intuos 2 A4 tall (XD-1212-u)or/and Intuos 3 6x11" (PTZ-631w)
4. Hydis HV121wx6-100, VGA/DVI/HDMI controller
5. 1280x800
6. No
7. I plan "moving on" to the Intuos 3. As first step, I wanted to build a 12" to replace the 9.7" (Intuos 2 6x8,) that I use with as layers palette with   
   main drawing machine.
8. It is no IPS panel, but at 20$, who cares? It was from a scrapped tabletPC, and came with an integrated Wacom digitizer + touch-screen panel.
   Once removed it, I founf myself with a panel with no metal in the pen's path, once I managed to unfold the TCON-board away. The LED line
   driving the backlight needs to be extended - it is a 9 pin 0.5 mm pitch flexible PCB. Relatively easy to find, nowadays. The noise seems to be under the 0,1 mm mark, in either of the two tables I tested it on.

 on: February 09, 2019, 02:18:22 AM 
Started by DaBotz - Last post by DaBotz
To change the name of the tablet, I landed on the tablet's main property dialog (Click on the icon of your tablet to modify in the topmost list window, it opens name and mode).

I completely forgot about the mode parameter; I tried the other values, beyond "standard" - i.e. "recognition mode" and  "simple mode".

Together with setting the refresh rate of the screen to 85 Hz, "recognition mode" seems to produce the best results, nboth for pen stability and the interferences picked up by the screen (though, I suspect that it may be cross-talk, as the VGA and USB cable run together for a couple of metres.).

 on: February 09, 2019, 02:09:50 AM 
Started by JaseBristol - Last post by DaBotz
Note: I checked and what happens was that a "WacomTablet_User.exe" process keeps hanging while the kernel service "WacomTablet.exe" dies.

If I kill the surviving, "spurious" process, I can use a call to "services.exe" to restart the Wacom driver service, without having to restart the whole system. 

 on: January 25, 2019, 10:28:44 PM 
Started by Switz - Last post by RamboRTM
Hallo looking for inspiration

 on: January 20, 2019, 09:50:23 PM 
Started by rackoony - Last post by Drewid
Attachments are missing ATM. I suspect the same problem. looking at it now

 on: November 20, 2018, 05:46:29 PM 
Started by Drewid - Last post by Aerendraca
It does seem a sad thing, and it's been a LONG time since I was on the forum, but I simply do not have time to work on these kinds of projects anymore. That said, I do still hope to complete the Serenitiq2 Build at some point, even just to see it through to a conclusion.

Perhaps this kind of MacGyver style of building things is a dying art, what with the cost of consumable electronics coming down, and the general 'throw away' attitude that exists these days. It is a real shame though since everything I've learnt from this forum, the confidence I developed messing with all this stuff, and the inspiration I've obtained over the years is invaluable. I thank everyone that has had anything to do with the forum, and I especially thank Drewid for being the pioneer and creator of this forum in the first place.

I might be back again, if Bongofish is still here and I get some time to continue working on S2, but if not, it's been great!

Cheers everyone!  Cheesy

 on: October 10, 2018, 10:17:36 PM 
Started by jedikalimero - Last post by jedikalimero
Not to revive a dead topic, but if you still have that digitizer board I just did a bunch of work on DTK Digitizers and could help diagnose the issue, or I'd be happy to buy the spare board as a back up part. I do a lot of cintiq repair.


I finally obtained the internals of another Cintiq so I removed the not working screen and replaced it with the working one keeping the case and the manual controls boards (power button, expresskeys and image control). The new screen came with the three back boards included so I have them for spares now.

The old screen had four or five stress marks in the LCD after the accident that appeared as faint dark spots of the size of a fingerprint so I guess it is of no use for you. Also, it is heavy and would risen postage costs a lot. So I could send you the working CCFL Driver board, the working Display Controller Board and the defective Cintiq mainboard.

 Apart from that it is all screws, white plastic covers of the boards, cables connecting the boards, the metal frame shielding the LCD, the digitizer sheet behind the LCD, the CCFL tubes and all the light diffusion layers between the LCD and the digitizer sheet. Oh, and also the LCD motherboard that is composed of two pieces but I can't remember now if it is soldered to the LCD flat ribbon cables or uses connectors.

If you want anything of this, please send me a message. I live in Canary Islands, Spain, so I have to post from here.

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