April 27, 2017, 05:43:13 PM *
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 on: April 26, 2017, 10:50:18 PM 
Started by DaBotz - Last post by DaBotz
Not really the Eureka moment that was the first build, but it's nice to have arrived here.[/i

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Alas, I soon realized that my toil wasn't over.

It seems that I really need to shield away the TCon board at the bottom... 

Then it will be time to measure stuff, cut some other, and buy a glass.

 on: April 26, 2017, 10:43:58 PM 
Started by DaBotz - Last post by DaBotz
Checking where to place stuff, the safe way... paper cut and tape.

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Not forgetting some details...

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The final arrangement is fime emough.

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 on: April 26, 2017, 10:29:33 PM 
Started by DaBotz - Last post by DaBotz
Update: I acquired a new FFC with a connector, however I forgot to check and ordered a "same side" FFC, when the one needed was - really -  a flip-side. Nothing major - cut, then take a cutter's blade and scrape the plastic on the side that need to be uncovered.

Which was good and well, as the guy that sold it to me had placed the connector on a tip with the blue stripe - it was to thick to actually enter in the LCD panel.

So, dismount it, and glue on the other tip that I had cut (removing the blue strip) and scraped bare... It works, so who cares that it is not too elegant. 

I have prepared the bottom of the case, modded the screen and finally joined the Intuos 2 and the LG... and so I discovered that the Tcon-board is very "noisy"on the right side of the screen (about 1/3rd is lost to false clicks, pressure blots and crazy jitter).

I need to build a sizeable RF case for it, but I am still confident that the build can be done. ... by simply raysing the thing up a bit, the interferences fell very noticeably, to what I'd call normal levels.

How to count pins, the lazy way - take a photo and mark them out.

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To case or not to case... here an untouched Intuos 2 and the UBiQ in its current form... as you can see, the UBiQ has the same size, even if it has a 14 mm (1/2 inch) thick perimeter frame in plywood.

If it wasn't that I want to use this build on my laps, plywood would have probably served me better... renouncing the possibility to mount it in a board, the frame could go down to 7 mm... which would have made the build smaller than the original Intuos.  I may still build one, in the end...

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The most "tranquil" way to cut a thick sheet of metal... drill holes.

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 on: April 25, 2017, 06:38:26 PM 
Started by dpaint - Last post by Pesho
If it were me, i would not mess with epoxy or such compounds unless i have to. Normally when you buy secondhand there is always a "matte stain" in the middle where most of the drawing happens. The 21UX-es come with a plastic film coating on the glass in order to simulate a "paper like feel" and it gets worn out pretty quickly. But, with some patience it can be peeled off completely - after that you just need to place a screen protector over the bare glass and it should look as good as new. Here's a link for reference.

 on: April 25, 2017, 08:26:11 AM 
Started by Arey - Last post by Pesho
Yeah, if it's metal there it's a lost cause. Guess i haven't dealt with many modern laptops as the ones i've opened have always been plastic on the back.

 on: April 24, 2017, 09:39:53 AM 
Started by Ertew - Last post by himmy.cui
hi, do you have any progress on this?
And I really have a question on that, we have a display LQ104X2LX05A with the same digitizer UNIT SU-004-B06 on hand, and could this type of display also be used on ST5111?
What's the difference between LQ104X2LX05A and LQ104X2LX05B?

 on: April 23, 2017, 11:16:59 PM 
Started by Arey - Last post by XDjackieXD
Seeing that the Wacom AES tech works similar to the N-trig stylus found in the MS Surface tablets, it is very likely that the electronics aren't behind the screen like with EMR digitizers but in the glass therefore making it impossible to just "swap" it because the screen very likely doesn't have a lot of space behind it and probably is covered in metal like with most modern laptop LCDs.

 on: April 23, 2017, 01:32:17 PM 
Started by Arey - Last post by Pesho
1) It's possible, but you normally won't find them alone. Most of the time they come with the LCD screen as one unit like in the link.
2) That will be tricky because nobody here has much experience with the newer-generation digitizers like on the T734. It's very likely they're USB, but the pinout is a mystery. The AES digitizer likely uses USB as well, so you may be able to get away with splicing its cable and routing it to the EMR digitizer instead. The EMR digitizer itself just peels off and you should be able to stick it to the back of the Dell screen if the size matches and there are no obstructions.

 on: April 23, 2017, 09:00:24 AM 
Started by Arey - Last post by Arey
yes i've tried it... and i'm not satisfied... the averaging works there but not in the way it would work for me.... i 'd like to have dynamic dependency of the parameters of the avg algorithm onto the speed of drawing.

i even mailed to the algorithm creator with proposal.... he has a prototype of the one and probably in tje future we will experience it.... but meanwhile, trying to figure out hardware option(s

 on: April 22, 2017, 10:19:48 PM 
Started by Arey - Last post by DaBotz
Before fighting with hardware, have you tried if you can manage the jitter with a stroke stabilyzer  software (like Lazy Nezumi) ?

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