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 1 
 on: January 20, 2019, 09:50:23 PM 
Started by rackoony - Last post by Drewid
Attachments are missing ATM. I suspect the same problem. looking at it now

 2 
 on: November 20, 2018, 05:46:29 PM 
Started by Drewid - Last post by Aerendraca
It does seem a sad thing, and it's been a LONG time since I was on the forum, but I simply do not have time to work on these kinds of projects anymore. That said, I do still hope to complete the Serenitiq2 Build at some point, even just to see it through to a conclusion.

Perhaps this kind of MacGyver style of building things is a dying art, what with the cost of consumable electronics coming down, and the general 'throw away' attitude that exists these days. It is a real shame though since everything I've learnt from this forum, the confidence I developed messing with all this stuff, and the inspiration I've obtained over the years is invaluable. I thank everyone that has had anything to do with the forum, and I especially thank Drewid for being the pioneer and creator of this forum in the first place.

I might be back again, if Bongofish is still here and I get some time to continue working on S2, but if not, it's been great!

Cheers everyone!  Cheesy


 3 
 on: October 10, 2018, 10:17:36 PM 
Started by jedikalimero - Last post by jedikalimero
Not to revive a dead topic, but if you still have that digitizer board I just did a bunch of work on DTK Digitizers and could help diagnose the issue, or I'd be happy to buy the spare board as a back up part. I do a lot of cintiq repair.

Hi,

I finally obtained the internals of another Cintiq so I removed the not working screen and replaced it with the working one keeping the case and the manual controls boards (power button, expresskeys and image control). The new screen came with the three back boards included so I have them for spares now.

The old screen had four or five stress marks in the LCD after the accident that appeared as faint dark spots of the size of a fingerprint so I guess it is of no use for you. Also, it is heavy and would risen postage costs a lot. So I could send you the working CCFL Driver board, the working Display Controller Board and the defective Cintiq mainboard.

 Apart from that it is all screws, white plastic covers of the boards, cables connecting the boards, the metal frame shielding the LCD, the digitizer sheet behind the LCD, the CCFL tubes and all the light diffusion layers between the LCD and the digitizer sheet. Oh, and also the LCD motherboard that is composed of two pieces but I can't remember now if it is soldered to the LCD flat ribbon cables or uses connectors.

If you want anything of this, please send me a message. I live in Canary Islands, Spain, so I have to post from here.

 4 
 on: October 10, 2018, 08:26:47 PM 
Started by procersapientiae - Last post by procersapientiae
Resolved.
I found 30KOhms of stray resistance between the clock and ground due to a faulty inverter at position "U50" it's responsible for part of the clock signal going to the Wacom QFP chip. The faulty chip is labeled W62, and appears to be a common source for why the DTK models will not respond to input. I replaced it with part SN74LVC2GU04DCKT and the issue was resolved. You can see more on the issue here if desired. I leared a loooooot about how the digitizer works while playing with a scope and looking for this issue. https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/400191/identifying-an-unknown-code-w62-sot363-dual-inverter

I figured I'd post the answer here since you guys may bump into this sort of problem.
~Ian

 5 
 on: October 10, 2018, 08:20:26 PM 
Started by jedikalimero - Last post by procersapientiae
Not to revive a dead topic, but if you still have that digitizer board I just did a bunch of work on DTK Digitizers and could help diagnose the issue, or I'd be happy to buy the spare board as a back up part. I do a lot of cintiq repair.

 6 
 on: October 03, 2018, 05:02:40 PM 
Started by procersapientiae - Last post by procersapientiae
I am trying to get some advice on a DTK-2100 (Intuos-4 style Cintiq 21-UX)
This appears to be a very common issue, as evidenced by this related thread: http://forum.bongofish.co.uk/index.php?topic=2625.0

Here is a snippet from the email I sent to Wacom (It would be so much easier if I could just buy the board new......)

I did some investigation into my repair issue with the DTK-2100s and I tried replacing the Wacom W4027F chip (this was a suggestion in the other topic) (taken from a functional Intuos 4 Small) to see if it resolved the issue, which it did not, there was no change in behavior), I then proceeded to gather test voltages from several of the test points on the board, I noted the ones that were off by a substantial amount and was hoping I could get adviced on the repair, if not I will have to proceed with replacing many components in the region until something works. Here are the Test points that do not work on my CON-348(X) board, Note, it also has a Qisda P/N of 5E.0VJ41.001 (of ironic note, of the 3 boards I have only the one from JAN 2011 is functional, while the ones from May and Feb 2011 have failed...)
Test Point : Good Voltage (on active functional board) : Bad voltage (on BOTH non functional units).
TP62 : Good (-)10mV : Bad (+)2mV
TP65 : 2mV : 0mV
TP71 : 1.75V : 5V
TP63 and TP64 : ~1mV : ~30mV
TP68 : 3mV : 0mV
TP6 : 11.5V : 12+V
TP3 and TP83 : 22V : 24-25V

The most obvious aberration was that TP62 clearly had a low negative voltage in the good board, and TP71 was not at 5V in the good board, indicating it's voltage seemed to be uncontrolled in the bad boards.
It was also unusual that TP6 and TPs 3/83 had higher voltages in the bad boards, I am uncertain if that was just coincidence though, as I assume there's flexibility in the 12V line and in the voltage after the doubler, or maybe it caused the cascade of failure.

It's really sad that these failed so early I bought them broken back in 2016, that's only 5 years after they were manufactured. Assuming they weren't put to use on day one, they had less than 5 years of use. I just want to restore them to glory, any help is appreciated.

Will try to upload a high res scan, but... my scanner is not that great...... It's canning now and looks mad blurry.

For immediate reference, here was the other guy's scan. (same board) https://imgur.com/2Xd3krj?

 7 
 on: October 03, 2018, 04:50:44 PM 
Started by bumhee34 - Last post by procersapientiae
Sorryyy, never ended up going through with the copycat build >.<

 8 
 on: September 22, 2018, 09:55:00 AM 
Started by DaBotz - Last post by DaBotz
As I feel a certain need to get praised (kind of), I post three more
drawings made with my "iQs" (mostly, the UBiQ-2/Mini-Q combo)

[ Attachment: You are not allowed to view attachments ]

[ Attachment: You are not allowed to view attachments ]

[ Attachment: You are not allowed to view attachments ]

I have seen that the latest iteration of Apple's Macintosh breaks the driver
for the Intuos 3 - as a result, Intuos 3 prices are falling, and I snatched a
PTZ-1231 for less than 40 Euros (with shipping), as well as a faulty Cintiq 12WX
(mostly because of the pen, and maybe I can resurrect it - or place the 11.6" IPS screen
I have around over its sensor board).


I will check things once the pieces are in my hands... after all, I already have two stripped 22" to test
over the PTZ-1231, so I can wait before buying yet another monitor.


 9 
 on: September 17, 2018, 06:21:20 PM 
Started by axel9546 - Last post by DaBotz
"Do you know if I can get a flickering free display, buy a large Intuos, and place it?"

Yes, you can - you probably would have to modify the frame of the LCD to let the pen signal go though (it is the "manually difficult" part of the game, where it is very easy to let speckles of dust slide in and create shadows or light spots) but some screens have already no metal in the signal's path and require no modification (mostly up to 15.4" /15.6" laptop screens).

That said, it probably won't be as good as the Wacom (but we have seen some pretty turdy ones from them too) as the drivers of the Intuos have no provision to filter out the noise added by the LCD and, as a result, the pen position is almost always affected by "jitter".

There is a 3rd part software "stroke filter" that can do much to solve this issue , Lazy Nezumi, that can go a long way to make a somewhat jittery machine usable, and in a way it is better to have it as it exposes the way the noise is filtered so that one can trim it to its necessity, and even change it while it draws . 

I myself have a 22" built on an Intuos 2 XL with a LG IPS224v (alas, the Intuos 2 XL is one inch shorter than what would be needed to completely cover the screen, so I have a 2cm of unreachable screen), and a 19.5" with another Intuos 2XL and a LG 20MP48a.

The more stable of the two is the second - it has a 5 cm (2 inches) vertical "crazy band" on the right, where the pen fritzes a bit, but the rest of the screen is remarkably jitter-free till the last cm on the left that is a bit wonky.

However, the marriage between any given digitizer and a screen is, really, a matter of luck (unless you follow a "recipe" from someone that already tried, with success, a given combination).

Roam through the site, and see if some of the examples in the "success" section attracts you.    
If your friend's Intuos 4 DiY is a "TabletMod" inspired build, with the AUO BW154P01 lcd, that is one mighty bad screen to work extensively (it was my first build), but someone made a similar build with the screens for Apple Macbooks (and a bespoken led backlight unit) that is a much better view.

 10 
 on: September 17, 2018, 05:46:46 PM 
Started by Drewid - Last post by DaBotz
Unfortunately, I do not really have suggestions to make.

It has been a honour contributing my tiny bits to this place, I have learned a lot here and managed to build some machines that really made my drawing life a lot better and easier.

I hope the forum will survive at least as an archive, as I am not done completely with building these things and it still has information I may need.

But that is, admittedly, me being selfish and greedy.
 

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