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 1 
 on: March 09, 2019, 06:17:36 PM 
Started by Aerendraca - Last post by DaBotz
1. Almost No Jitters
2. 1-1.5
3. Intuos 2 A4 tall (XD-1212-u)or/and Intuos 3 6x11" (PTZ-631w)
4. Hydis HV121wx6-100, VGA/DVI/HDMI controller
5. 1280x800
6. No
7. I plan "moving on" to the Intuos 3. As first step, I wanted to build a 12" to replace the 9.7" (Intuos 2 6x8,) that I use with as layers palette with   
   main drawing machine.
8. It is no IPS panel, but at 20$, who cares? It was from a scrapped tabletPC, and came with an integrated Wacom digitizer + touch-screen panel.
   Once removed it, I founf myself with a panel with no metal in the pen's path, once I managed to unfold the TCON-board away. The LED line
   driving the backlight needs to be extended - it is a 9 pin 0.5 mm pitch flexible PCB. Relatively easy to find, nowadays. The noise seems to be under the 0,1 mm mark, in either of the two tables I tested it on.

 2 
 on: February 09, 2019, 02:18:22 AM 
Started by DaBotz - Last post by DaBotz
To change the name of the tablet, I landed on the tablet's main property dialog (Click on the icon of your tablet to modify in the topmost list window, it opens name and mode).

I completely forgot about the mode parameter; I tried the other values, beyond "standard" - i.e. "recognition mode" and  "simple mode".

Together with setting the refresh rate of the screen to 85 Hz, "recognition mode" seems to produce the best results, nboth for pen stability and the interferences picked up by the screen (though, I suspect that it may be cross-talk, as the VGA and USB cable run together for a couple of metres.).

 3 
 on: February 09, 2019, 02:09:50 AM 
Started by JaseBristol - Last post by DaBotz
Note: I checked and what happens was that a "WacomTablet_User.exe" process keeps hanging while the kernel service "WacomTablet.exe" dies.

If I kill the surviving, "spurious" process, I can use a call to "services.exe" to restart the Wacom driver service, without having to restart the whole system. 

 4 
 on: January 25, 2019, 10:28:44 PM 
Started by Switz - Last post by RamboRTM
Hallo looking for inspiration

 5 
 on: January 20, 2019, 09:50:23 PM 
Started by rackoony - Last post by Drewid
Attachments are missing ATM. I suspect the same problem. looking at it now

 6 
 on: November 20, 2018, 05:46:29 PM 
Started by Drewid - Last post by Aerendraca
It does seem a sad thing, and it's been a LONG time since I was on the forum, but I simply do not have time to work on these kinds of projects anymore. That said, I do still hope to complete the Serenitiq2 Build at some point, even just to see it through to a conclusion.

Perhaps this kind of MacGyver style of building things is a dying art, what with the cost of consumable electronics coming down, and the general 'throw away' attitude that exists these days. It is a real shame though since everything I've learnt from this forum, the confidence I developed messing with all this stuff, and the inspiration I've obtained over the years is invaluable. I thank everyone that has had anything to do with the forum, and I especially thank Drewid for being the pioneer and creator of this forum in the first place.

I might be back again, if Bongofish is still here and I get some time to continue working on S2, but if not, it's been great!

Cheers everyone!  Cheesy


 7 
 on: October 10, 2018, 10:17:36 PM 
Started by jedikalimero - Last post by jedikalimero
Not to revive a dead topic, but if you still have that digitizer board I just did a bunch of work on DTK Digitizers and could help diagnose the issue, or I'd be happy to buy the spare board as a back up part. I do a lot of cintiq repair.

Hi,

I finally obtained the internals of another Cintiq so I removed the not working screen and replaced it with the working one keeping the case and the manual controls boards (power button, expresskeys and image control). The new screen came with the three back boards included so I have them for spares now.

The old screen had four or five stress marks in the LCD after the accident that appeared as faint dark spots of the size of a fingerprint so I guess it is of no use for you. Also, it is heavy and would risen postage costs a lot. So I could send you the working CCFL Driver board, the working Display Controller Board and the defective Cintiq mainboard.

 Apart from that it is all screws, white plastic covers of the boards, cables connecting the boards, the metal frame shielding the LCD, the digitizer sheet behind the LCD, the CCFL tubes and all the light diffusion layers between the LCD and the digitizer sheet. Oh, and also the LCD motherboard that is composed of two pieces but I can't remember now if it is soldered to the LCD flat ribbon cables or uses connectors.

If you want anything of this, please send me a message. I live in Canary Islands, Spain, so I have to post from here.

 8 
 on: October 10, 2018, 08:26:47 PM 
Started by procersapientiae - Last post by procersapientiae
Resolved.
I found 30KOhms of stray resistance between the clock and ground due to a faulty inverter at position "U50" it's responsible for part of the clock signal going to the Wacom QFP chip. The faulty chip is labeled W62, and appears to be a common source for why the DTK models will not respond to input. I replaced it with part SN74LVC2GU04DCKT and the issue was resolved. You can see more on the issue here if desired. I leared a loooooot about how the digitizer works while playing with a scope and looking for this issue. https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/400191/identifying-an-unknown-code-w62-sot363-dual-inverter

I figured I'd post the answer here since you guys may bump into this sort of problem.
~Ian

 9 
 on: October 10, 2018, 08:20:26 PM 
Started by jedikalimero - Last post by procersapientiae
Not to revive a dead topic, but if you still have that digitizer board I just did a bunch of work on DTK Digitizers and could help diagnose the issue, or I'd be happy to buy the spare board as a back up part. I do a lot of cintiq repair.

 10 
 on: October 03, 2018, 05:02:40 PM 
Started by procersapientiae - Last post by procersapientiae
I am trying to get some advice on a DTK-2100 (Intuos-4 style Cintiq 21-UX)
This appears to be a very common issue, as evidenced by this related thread: http://forum.bongofish.co.uk/index.php?topic=2625.0

Here is a snippet from the email I sent to Wacom (It would be so much easier if I could just buy the board new......)

I did some investigation into my repair issue with the DTK-2100s and I tried replacing the Wacom W4027F chip (this was a suggestion in the other topic) (taken from a functional Intuos 4 Small) to see if it resolved the issue, which it did not, there was no change in behavior), I then proceeded to gather test voltages from several of the test points on the board, I noted the ones that were off by a substantial amount and was hoping I could get adviced on the repair, if not I will have to proceed with replacing many components in the region until something works. Here are the Test points that do not work on my CON-348(X) board, Note, it also has a Qisda P/N of 5E.0VJ41.001 (of ironic note, of the 3 boards I have only the one from JAN 2011 is functional, while the ones from May and Feb 2011 have failed...)
Test Point : Good Voltage (on active functional board) : Bad voltage (on BOTH non functional units).
TP62 : Good (-)10mV : Bad (+)2mV
TP65 : 2mV : 0mV
TP71 : 1.75V : 5V
TP63 and TP64 : ~1mV : ~30mV
TP68 : 3mV : 0mV
TP6 : 11.5V : 12+V
TP3 and TP83 : 22V : 24-25V

The most obvious aberration was that TP62 clearly had a low negative voltage in the good board, and TP71 was not at 5V in the good board, indicating it's voltage seemed to be uncontrolled in the bad boards.
It was also unusual that TP6 and TPs 3/83 had higher voltages in the bad boards, I am uncertain if that was just coincidence though, as I assume there's flexibility in the 12V line and in the voltage after the doubler, or maybe it caused the cascade of failure.

It's really sad that these failed so early I bought them broken back in 2016, that's only 5 years after they were manufactured. Assuming they weren't put to use on day one, they had less than 5 years of use. I just want to restore them to glory, any help is appreciated.

Will try to upload a high res scan, but... my scanner is not that great...... It's canning now and looks mad blurry.

For immediate reference, here was the other guy's scan. (same board) https://imgur.com/2Xd3krj?

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