Bongofish
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 1 
 on: June 28, 2018, 03:42:11 AM 
Started by TheClarkster - Last post by bernard
Teky: even after posting 3 times, you completely forgot to tell us what other "pad model" this pen was working on. This would help us understanding what's going on a lot better.  The UD-* series uses "Penabled" (tm) pens, one of the most common (old) Wacom tech. Lot of pens from old laptop uses the exact same technology.  A picture of all your gear would also help.

 2 
 on: June 19, 2018, 05:50:31 PM 
Started by TheClarkster - Last post by Ertew
Teky, You have working pad and compatible working pen. Next You have UD-1212-R that can't see pen.
There are two possible problems. Your UD-1212-R may be broken but I think that the pen You use isn't compatible with UD-1212-R. There are many different pens and they are compatible with specific tablets, not with all tablets available. You need to search for specific pen or try out few old pens. Hope Your tablet is working and You can find working pen.

 3 
 on: June 13, 2018, 09:32:17 PM 
Started by DaBotz - Last post by DaBotz
Then, a combination of a shallow acrylic foil and my beloved black adhesive tape to cover the hole where the buttons reside, and a sheet with printed the Intuos  short-cuts completed the opera.  

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Here we can see it in its final resting place, below its beautiful big sister, the sleek UbiQ3.

Oddly enough, "3" has to use a VGA whereas this runs on the DVI.
 

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So, how does it go?

It is a bit jittery - nothing excessive, I have drawn plenty of stuff with the old Cabinetiq when it was on the fritz and behaved worse than this.

Also, I have to see if my usual common-mode choke trick on the USB line has any effect on this build [Note after the fact: it has no effect].

However, my desire making this was to have, for when I use "UbiQ3", the same kind of "auxiliary palettes holder" that I use with my main machine, and that integrated well with the look of "3" (which was my first build with "all inside the original case").

I have to say that it appears I have done a good work, from that point of view, and I can live with a bit of jitter.  


 4 
 on: June 13, 2018, 09:04:59 PM 
Started by DaBotz - Last post by DaBotz
I decided to place the LCD buttons on the front lateral side of the case, and to cut the wacom metal plane to let the cable through.

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By the way, anybody knows what material is? it proved much, much more brittle than I expected.  

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When I placed back the Intuos 2, I manage to get the FFC from the screen to slide between the metal shield and the Intuos circuitry board, then attached the ZIF-to-ZIF plaque to the metal shield with bi-adhesive tape.

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At this point, it had become mostly connecting everything together, manage the cables paths, and close the case with all in it.
    


 5 
 on: June 13, 2018, 08:50:27 PM 
Started by DaBotz - Last post by DaBotz
I still had a pretty scrappy looking Intuos 2 12x12 lying around.

My nephew "killed" his laptop (again), and gave me the screen from it... an Innolux N156BGE-E41.
It is Twisted Nematics, 1366x768 and 6 bit - in other words, crap - so for a while I resisted.

But it also has a perimetre-only frame, and the TCON is already out of the way.
No modding required!!!!   WOW, so easy - temptation, temptation.

Finally, I caved in, ordered a controller kit, a ZIF-ZIF extender and 40 cm of FFC (30 lines, 0.5 mm pitch)  

First thing, this LCD has pretty bad viewing angles for  a modern screen (but better than the ones in the LP156WH2 that was in the laptop before this last). As I think to keep it on a desk, I had to turn it upside-down in the build, as it is visible virtually only from "above" its centre line of sight, and I was going to be below it most of the time.  

Unfortunately, this means that its TCON has to be in the middle of the active area! Not ideal, but it beats not seeing the picture in the screen at all.

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Having already walked the ways of Bongofish, in a day (once all the pieces were at hand) I managed to mount it all together

I carved a hole in the front of the Intuos case - surprise, this panel is as thick as the reinforcement ridges in the back of Intuos 2 fronts are tall, so it was simple to decide where to leave it.

Inside,below the original case surface, kept in place by spacers glued-soldered to the front.

To avoid worrying about interactions between its frame and the Intuos antennas board, I placed my now customary polyethylene shield behind it. A 1/3rd of mm well spent.

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I placed the kit board at the bottom of the Intuos case, aside the location of the Intuos circuitry board

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Them , I glued a piece of 3mm glass in the hole.

 6 
 on: June 13, 2018, 07:53:19 PM 
Started by Aerendraca - Last post by DaBotz
1. Jitters
2. 2 - 3, some false clicks
3. Intuos 2 A4 tall (XD-1212-u)
4. Innolux N156BGE-E41, VGA/HDMI controller
5. 1366x768
6. No
7. I had a Intuos 2 12x12 lying around, my nephew gave me a LCD that he salvaged from his last dead laptop - it was an ugly TN thing, but it also had no metal backplate inside the screen area, its circuit board is in the same plane as the lcd - no need for modding -  so I decided to try anyway. It is a bit more jittery than I care for, it has abysmal viewing angles, low resolution and it is wider than the screen active area by some 70 pixels on each side.
8. No, unless the cosmos conspires against you (I had it gratis, an Intuos 2 I bought last as "possibly scrapped", for 10Euros, it does not require modding - how could I resist?)

 7 
 on: June 01, 2018, 11:59:56 PM 
Started by TheClarkster - Last post by Teky
Hi

i have a Wacom UD-1212-R when i put my pen on pad nothing happens light stays red i have checked
the pen on another pad it works fine any suggestions

 8 
 on: June 01, 2018, 10:38:51 PM 
Started by ohgodhowdoiusekeyboard - Last post by Teky
Hi Guys

I have a problem with my WACOM UD-1212-R  when i put my pen on digitizer the light stays red i have checked the pen on another pad it works fine there is a issue with pad
any suggestions

 9 
 on: June 01, 2018, 10:31:29 PM 
Started by Jodas - Last post by Teky
Hi Guys

I have a problem with my WACOM UD-1212-R when i put pen on digitizer the light stays red no response i have checked the pen on another pad i works fine
so i guess its the pad any suggestions 

 10 
 on: April 24, 2018, 12:55:14 AM 
Started by ThinWhiteDuke - Last post by bernard
Laptop monitors are thin, so the heat gets out easily through the plastic even without holes.
Foam is the best for isolation but if you have a bit of a hole somewhere (you said at the top) then it's probably enough to let the heat go gently without hurting anything.

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