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 1 
 on: July 22, 2017, 03:41:19 PM 
Started by Aerendraca - Last post by Aerendraca
Just to say that I took a break from this project for a while due to other projects/commitments however, I have now found some time to continue this again so look out for further posts on Serenitiq2 progress soon.


 2 
 on: July 21, 2017, 01:02:40 AM 
Started by axel9546 - Last post by DaBotz
Is it just a point, or a whole vertical band?

If it is a point, the source of the noise probably is the circuitry inside the LCD, and little can be done aside trying to see if changing the refresh rate does ameliorate it.

If it is a vertical band in which you have horizontal jitter, then the culprit is inside the t-con board (possibly, an inductance - a coil; my last build has one, three cm from the right border of the t-con, and it makes for horrible jitter and false clicks) and you can try to shield it, building an RF cage all around the T-Con board.

(if possible, extends its width so that the margins of the cage lay beyond the limits of the tablet active area... I suspect that where the cage ends, the EM field bends and it "couples" with the digitizer antennas, so going wider could help avoid my meddlesome "vertical border crazies")

 3 
 on: July 20, 2017, 10:11:38 AM 
Started by axel9546 - Last post by axel9546
Note... I checked the TCon heats up, on my builds too.

I wouldn't be too worried about it, apart that it becomes a mess to work on them when the weather is warm.


Pens and screen borders is often a bit of a mess... typically, one must accept that the pen will "go away" in the area near the horizontal or vertical border of the tablet.

The best you can do is to calibrate it so that the pen is reasonably accurate in the widest possible area... not being able to go on the borders complicates a tiny bit the calibration.

Check the Simtiq planner   ( https://www.dropbox.com/s/676vr2qyxeuhab2/simtiq_planner.html?dl=1 ) to have an idea of the initial values.

Given the data of your screen, you should reduce the projection on the screen some 60 pixeels for each side (so, left, 60, right 1860) and see how it goes  from there.

(in your case, you have to change the screen projection, not the tablet area, to tune the X axis )




Hello Can u help me? Why when i point the Pen on the screen in some point i have this problem https://streamable.com/j6ksc (its a video)

 4 
 on: July 11, 2017, 01:09:54 AM 
Started by DaBotz - Last post by DaBotz
If I see correctly, DVI connector miss many pins. This must be DVI-A input plus some funny pins for PnP, monitor ID and hot-plug detection. Definitely no digital input.

Nice work with backlight. If I see correctly, this screen are designed to easily swap backlight elements.

P.S. linked video doesn't work.

I tried the link, and it works for me.

The back-light replacement is very easy, in this LCD - one unscrews the CCFL assembly, and they require a very modicum force to slid out of the Panel- no need to open all up, and expose the various layers inside the lightbox or the LCD.

The back metal plate, too, was attached to the internal plastic frame and could be removed without opening the panel.

Also, the assemblies holding the CCFL are pretty sturdy  - to take out the lamps and glue the led strips in their place ( with a non-conductive, transparent "mass" glue resembling a sticky silicone that I use often as "DIY" rubber) was maybe half an hour of work.

At full power, the LED driver had an inductor that heated up quite a bit - I glued a 4x4 cm piece of aluminium (a radiating surface from a scrapped PSU) on top of it, and it cools it down nicely.

The main issue with this screen was the Hirose connector: it is beyond my ability to jury-rig a longer extension for that, and the cable inside the monitor is just too short to place the main board in any sensible position.

Combined with the fact that both the comlumns driver and the rows driver boards interfere with the Intuos, requiring two RF cages, it made the project simply too much hassle, for little gain.

However, I mounted the monitor back together (if I can, I always try to keep things reversible till the final build), and I  am happy to say that, for the moment, it works flawlessly - the LEDs are a bit too spaced, and it shows on blacks in the cm or so above the LED strips, but I think it is acceptable.

 5 
 on: July 09, 2017, 12:49:17 AM 
Started by DaBotz - Last post by XDjackieXD
If I see correctly, DVI connector miss many pins. This must be DVI-A input plus some funny pins for PnP, monitor ID and hot-plug detection. Definitely no digital input.

Nice work with backlight. If I see correctly, this screen are designed to easily swap backlight elements.

P.S. linked video doesn't work.

one half of the pins is only needed for dual link dvi so it is possible that these pins are enough for single link dvi (but I haven't looked up the pinout so it could very well be that the connected pins are only for EDID)

 6 
 on: July 08, 2017, 07:09:56 PM 
Started by DaBotz - Last post by Ertew
If I see correctly, DVI connector miss many pins. This must be DVI-A input plus some funny pins for PnP, monitor ID and hot-plug detection. Definitely no digital input.

Nice work with backlight. If I see correctly, this screen are designed to easily swap backlight elements.

P.S. linked video doesn't work.

 7 
 on: July 07, 2017, 10:14:52 PM 
Started by DaBotz - Last post by DaBotz
Waiting for the OPAmps (and my fortitude to re-group), I tried to solder an extension for the Hirose DF9 etc... No way in hell I can manage 82 solders on pins with 1 mm pitch.

I am stuck with the original, ridiculously short cable.

As a result, the relative position of LCD vs The board is all but fixed... two cm to wiggle around, or so. Also, the connector is ridiculously prone to unlatch on his own (also, the cable is as rigid as I would like my nether parts to be, which definitely does not help).

Never ever again will I consider using a panel with it...

I have decided to place the screen "vertical", to be a the middle of the finished build, which has led me to some unfortunate discoveries...

This allows me to place the monitor main board, the power and video inputs board  and the Intuos secondary board in the same underside recess, and keep the front relatively
thin (relatively is the main word, here... if I guess correctly, and the XD-0912 is similar to the XD-0608, a build with one of them and a modern LAptop LCD can be as thichk as 1.5 cm; this one at minimum is going to be 32 mm.)

My 12"x18" build is 61x43 cm (it could be trimmed town to 59.5x40.5, simply avoiding the second order of side walls that I added to have the width for the side screw threads.

If I decided to go on, this 15" (12"x9") was going to be 43 cm tall, for... 48 cm wide. Much bigger than I expected or desired. 

Also, having it open and all, I was finally able to do some tests and, in the end...

Both the column rows driver boards interfere with the tablet, and even with these out of the way, the build closes on par with the old "UBiq" center area, at which point... I may be better served building a smaller case for that, wide as the screen only... it would have a similar final footprint, a bigger drawable Area (about 1100x1050 px, vs 1024x768, or 16" vs 15").

A video of the test https://youtu.be/CYRuOCooNEI

A bummer, but I learnt how to replace CCFL with LEDs, at least. 

[ Attachment: You are not allowed to view attachments ] [ Attachment: You are not allowed to view attachments ]


 8 
 on: July 04, 2017, 09:48:11 PM 
Started by Ertew - Last post by Ertew
https://getremarkable.com/
reMarkable is another e-book reader. You should hear about Kindle, Nook, Tolino, etc... But reMarkable also contains EMR digitizer (there are only few eink readers with EMR digitizer) and probably resistive touchscreen. You can draw and highlight text using any pen, but dedicated battery-less pen are designed to give You the best paper-like feel. And pen are sold separately to maximize company income.
That's all information that I can found on official website.

Why I copy that on tablet forum? Because I found non-official information that Wacom wasn't only supplier for EMR digitizers. Some sources say that Wacom help them with digitizer, top layer finishing (paper-like drawing), pen and e-ink display.
What You think about news? IMHO Wacom have good deal with them and within few years we should see new Cintiq model with outdoor-readable grayscale display. Maybe even new class class of devices - portable notepad that can act as a regular tablet or that You can bring outside and sketch nature with unlimited amount of virtual paper and ink.

 9 
 on: June 29, 2017, 06:30:13 PM 
Started by DaBotz - Last post by DaBotz
My idea was having a PWM frequency tunable between some 200 and 1000-1200 hz... pretty basic, as far as electronics go.

Fast enough to avoid seeing the light flicker (would it be best some exact multiple of the refresh rate? no idea), slow enough that the on/off times of the LED can be ignored hen setting brightness at minimum , and with a chance of tuning it out of resonances with the tablet, should these manifest themselves.

From what you told me before, the LED kit probably can't handle things going much faster than that, anyway... and my soldering ability is not stellar, so slower is going to be better.

 10 
 on: June 28, 2017, 07:29:13 PM 
Started by DaBotz - Last post by Ertew
Oops. I forgot about frequency. I build similar oscillator and notice significant frequency error at 10khz. At 100khz circuit are unstable and way off from simulation. For 1kHz You may expect less than 10% error at frequency. Sorry for scare You.

More important thing: LM358 aren't rail-to-rail amplifier. I expect non-linear distortions near minimum and maximum settings - may be noticeable but not critical.

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