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 on: February 19, 2017, 01:06:15 PM 
Started by akromatic - Last post by Pesho
The T731 digitier looks like one of those newer generation ones, so it may be USB. Not much info on the pinout for those sadly... Have you tried testing with a multimeter or peeling back the cable to see how many of those pins are actually connected to anything?

 on: February 19, 2017, 12:36:28 PM 
Started by akromatic - Last post by Ertew
Cannot see any images.
The LVDS converter almost always comes with standard cable. But there are many standards over the world. You should ask seller for the right connector and right cable length. If not You will need to buy extra cable or cut both cables (one from laptop and one from converter) then solder them together.

 on: February 19, 2017, 03:06:28 AM 
Started by akromatic - Last post by akromatic
here are some more detailed pictures of the T731 screen

as for the LVDS, chances are the controller board that i get would come with the LVDS cable.

 on: February 16, 2017, 08:11:56 PM 
Started by akromatic - Last post by Ertew
fair enough, i have another fujitsu T731 which has 2 finger touch which got me wondering. still as far as touch is concerned cant i just get a 13.3 or larger capacitive touch module and calibrate it to fit? or maybe something like the AirBar
I don't like touch interface and I never investigate how it can be connected to the computer. Sorry, no help this time.
And BTW, You need touch screen with USB. WaxBee should accept serial input signal with touch frames but cannot emulate USB touchscreen. So all touch frames will be erased.
Just few clicks and I found this: http://www.ebay.com/bhp/capacitive-touch-panel
I will never guide You for right digitizer but I can show You all bad digitizers.
Touch digitizer (resistive, capacitive and other types Wink ) always contain 'glass' (transparent plastic), connecting tape and controller. Glass with just external tape are bad because You not get connector and controller. Everything without 'USB' tag are bad because required extra controller or are dedicated for specific system.
For example few good digitizers:

Now something about Your last post. On the photo I see only one digitizer board, probably for the touchscreen. You should have two boards, separate for EMR digitizer and capacitive digitizer. Please include photo with missing board and cable - maybe I can deduct something from cable pinout.
Next, I not like cable for LCD. I cannot see any twisted pairs. If this cable are made of individually shielded wires You almost cannot reuse it because soldering this wires may be impossible. If I have right, You need to buy LVDS cabe for this LCD or LVDS converter board with cable included.
Last, I not like that LVDS converter board. The reason are simply. Converter board have separate output for LED backlight - the yellowish connector on top-left corner on main picture. You should connect LED backlight directly here, without backlight driver. But Your LCD have build-in driver for backlight. I don't know how to deal with this issue.

Here You have better LVDS converter board:
Of course You need to find converter with right resolution and right cable. Happy searching...

 on: February 16, 2017, 10:34:59 AM 
Started by lzhets - Last post by lzhets
As far as I know, capacitive digitizer contain conductive paths with strange shapes but that shapes should never create a loop.

Interesting info. thnx

 on: February 15, 2017, 05:20:05 AM 
Started by akromatic - Last post by akromatic
cool thanks, should help me get started.

also i've gutted a screen from the T731. apparently it is a similar screen as the HP TouchSmart TM2

I cant seemed to find much information about it. I can source a LVSD controller board for the screen but i got no idea about the wacom side.

this screen has a capacitive touch overlay attached to the wacom controller.

this LVSD controller seemed to support 5-24v input

 on: February 14, 2017, 08:38:45 PM 
Started by lzhets - Last post by Ertew
Any conductive loop will give jetter or other distortions.
As far as I know, capacitive digitizer contain conductive paths with strange shapes but that shapes should never create a loop.
So in most cases this digitizer shouldn't make any interferences. But You must test it Yourself. I cannot do it for You.

 on: February 14, 2017, 08:32:45 PM 
Started by akromatic - Last post by Ertew
In my language:
DC/DC is a step mode voltage converter. This part contain inductor and have great efficiency, 80% or above. Thanks to inductor, input and output current wasn't equal. This part can only decrease voltage (buck or step-down) or only increase voltage (boost or step-up), depend what type You chose. You need minimum 2V difference between input and output.
LDO is a low DropOut voltage stabilizer. This does not contain inductor, can only decrease voltage but can operate with small voltage difference between input and output. Input and output current are almost the same. The dropout voltage multiplied by current gives You power losses that LDO must dissipate by heating air.

[ Attachment: You are not allowed to view attachments ]

Here are fast block diagram for Your tablet and circuit schematic for Teensy.
Teensy schematic should be obvious. You need to add LDO that generates 3.3V (or 3.0V or 3V, really doesn't matter) for Wacom digitizer. Modifications in red circles.

In the LVDS converter I skipped audio amplifier and in/out ports to keep diagram cleaner. Apart from audio, converter also contain power supply part, main IC and a lot of connectors.
First please ignore red crosses and arrows. Whole converter (except LCD backlight and maybe audio amplifier) are powered from 5V generated locally on board. LCD glass are powered form 3.3V or 5V. The 12V option are only for special rare screens, not for Your (and mine) HV133WX1 panel.

To make first test You need to solder few things on Teensy and connect few plugs to LVDS converter, that's all.

Next (if everything works) You can try to modify LVDS converter to accept external 5V supply. All according to red lines. DC/DC can be bypassed by just shorting it's input to output. I draw two 5V lines from PC (two USB ports). You can use 5V powerbank or mains adapter if they have enough output current.

 on: February 14, 2017, 12:22:53 PM 
Started by lzhets - Last post by lzhets
Hi! U guys doing really cool stuff! I hope i can repeat 1 DIY Cintiq from iPad 3 panel and my PTZ630.
Now iam on this stage:
NEEEAAAD HEYAAAAAAALPP with screen protector. I think bumhee34 find best variant, but yeap, if u not from Korea/China u can not obtain this small perfect piece of transparent happiness. Embarrassed

  • what u think about DOUBLE 0.3mm screen protector for iPad? what about bubbles and stratification/lamination/exfoliation (after i cause pressure with my wacom pen)?

  • May be u know retail source of thin tempered glass (only 3-4mm in my country)?

Wow, i'm forgot ipad 3 digitazer glass. its have invisible semiconductive grid from oxid. can grid cause jittering?

 on: February 13, 2017, 09:46:14 PM 
Started by akromatic - Last post by Ertew
i heard about waxbee and teensy on the forums

what do you mean by both option is possible? does the screen support direct usb or its serial only? I will be using a more modern OS, ie win 7/8/10. im not sure what version that is on the T731 but it also shows up as a ISDv4 device but its over USB and im using windows 8 on it.

im not too sure what a waxbee converter is or how to wire it up besides it being a serial to usb. im assuming that a rs323 adaptor to usb wont work and if waxbee is a serial to usb converter i dont need a teensy?

is serial over bluetooth a possibility?
You read something about this method so I think that You know the possible solutions and differences.
By writing both I mean simple USB->serial converter and WaxBee converter.

Back to beginning. Wacom makes 'industrial' tablets, 'artistic' tablets (including old cintiq) and computers equipped with EMR digitizer (looks similar to cintiq, maybe share the same name).
Artistic tablet is a stand-alone device. Industrial is bare EMR digitizer build-in into tablet-PC or similar devices.
Artistic tablets with ADB or serial interface are now obsolete. Linux have drivers(*1) for them in repository thus anyone can download, compile and use it at any device. Of course Wacom release drivers(*2) for all version windows but that was years ago. The top available was win XP and this was the latest OS with official drivers.
*1 - reverse-engineered drivers, made by fans.
*2 - official divers from Wacom, closed source.
Artistic tablets with USB are actual standard. Wacom provide drivers for windows for all of these devices. Of course linux community making their own drivers(*1) for all new models within few months.

And here comes WaxBee. As You found it's a program that run on Teensy. You can name it software but for me it's a embedded firmware. This firmware allow You to read packets from old tablet (especially ADB ones) and send it to computer via USB.
Just hold her for two second. WaxBee runs at ATmega32U4. This uC have universal USB device that can present itself as almost any type of hardware. Because of that, WaxBee can present to the computer as regular USB->serial converter (compatible with Linux) or in this case, WaxBee can mimic regular Wacom tablet with USB interface (compatible with almost anything).
BTW, Pro Micro is a nice board with ATmega32U4 and shitty bootloader. I like this device because it's a lot cheaper than Teensy. But please do not buy that. It's easy to brick bootloader and You need working Arduino board or external AVR programmer to fix bricked bootloader.
Teensy 2.0 is similar board with the same ATmega32U4 but a lot more robust bootloader and higher price. The best choice for newbies.

Ok, bact to topic. What about industrial tablets? There are 3 types of them.
Bare digitizer with USB interface should work out of the box. Just found the right pins, voltage and solder USB socket.
Bare digitizer with serial interface is similar to artistic tablet with serial interface. WaxBee can handle it, Wacom drivers (for XP only) can handle it and of course Linux can too.
Third way is digitizer with touch. In fact these are two separate devices, where EMR digitizer block touch screen when detect pen proximate. I give them special place because often these devices are chained. One of them have serial output, second have serial input and output to the motherboard. Second output may be serial or USB, so screen with touch gives higher chance to found USB device inside.

And back to serial digitizers. Probably all windows from XP to 10 have build-in drivers for tablet-PC. But as I deduct so far, these drivers are assigned to specific serial port on specific motherboard. As You wrote, You have T731 and W8, no problems with drivers. I have the same with ST5111 and W7. Both digitizers are found by OS and have native support even without installing Wacom software. So far no one found how it's done thus we should forgot about this solution.

fair enough, i have another fujitsu T731 which has 2 finger touch which got me wondering. still as far as touch is concerned cant i just get a 13.3 or larger capacitive touch module and calibrate it to fit? or maybe something like the AirBar
I don't like touch interface and I never investigate how it can be connected to the computer. Sorry, no help this time.
And BTW, You need touch screen with USB. WaxBee should accept serial input signal with touch frames but cannot emulate USB touchscreen. So all touch frames will be erased.

BTW2, You cannot use pen directly on LCD. You need some glass or plexi layer on it. Do You have original case for the screen? 
yeh i saved the cables but unfortunately i've debezeled it and tossed the frame. i did however saved the clear front plastic protective screen. why cant i draw directly on the screen besides the obvious scratching? afaik the plastic in front is not wired or anything and the wacom uses magnetic resonance so wouldnt distancing the pen from the digitizer have adverse effects?
1. Plastic cover LCD from scratches.
2. LCD does not like any force. Even if You not scratch surface, You will see rainbow around pen tip. Next You can easily draw black or white line on LCD surface. This line will disappear within seconds or minutes but it disturbing.
3. The friction. Try to draw with Wacom pen or regular pencil over paper, gum, wood, glass. Original cover are optimized for drawing, substitutes may not.
4. Optimal distance between pen and EMR digitizer wasn't zero. If You decrease distance, whole system may be unstable. I have that issue during first test without plastic cover on.

LVDS are simply and robust interface. You have two types of LVDS converters. One are easy to configure and play. Second one need special programmer and usually seller program it according to Your demand. I prefer first type, bought directly from china.
You can easily found "HV133WX1-100 pdf" - complete manual how to connect this screen. Your screen need GND, 2 supplies, 4 twisted pairs of image signal and two signals for dimming backlight.
BTW, it's very nice that You have cable and connector for the LCD. It save You a lot of work with matching LCD connector.

well wouldnt the controller board have me sorted as far as wirering and powering the screen is concerned?
I doesn't understand what You write here but I see the link.
You found very nice set that include cable for the LCD. With this set You can forgot about rewiring original LCD cable (You still need to rewire cable for digitizer). For me the only drawback is the fixed resolution. For You it's ideal solution, no programming and playing with jumpers.

I have the same screen.
- Glass (whole LCD except backlight) need 3.3V and about 0.5A. HDMI->LVDS converter will need similar amount of power, depend on model. WaxBee and digitizer should consume less than 0.05A. It might be possible to power all these parts from single USB port (LVDS converter directly from 5V, glass from DC/DC step-down converter, digitizer from separate 3.3V LDO).
- Backlight (bare LEDs) need about 20V and 4W of power. LCD panel contain DC/DC step-up converter for backlight. This converter need input with range 5..20V so 5V from USB will be just enough. But it's 4W of power so You need second USB socket or wall adapter for that.

can i just say that 5A 2A is enough to drive the whole setup? thinking 5V off a USB port on the computer to drive the digitizer and waxbee and maybe a second USB port to power just the screen using a 5V to 12V booster. I'm assuming the LVDS controller has the necessary boosters etc to drive the screen and backlighting on its own as the one im looking at demands a 12V input which i'm going to use a 5V setup to.

i'll figure a way to minimize cables but it would be nice to have the option to power it off a 5V2A power bank.
For converter and glass:
I think about much simpler LVDS board, like this one: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/MT6820-B-10-Inch-To-42-Inch-5V-Universal-LVDS-LCD-Monitor-Driver-Controller-Board/1000001190673.html
This board required (and have) 5V input and can be powered from USB, powerbank or external supply.
The board You chose also working from 5V supply but does not have 5V input. Your board have 12V input (in fact 7-20V input) and build-in step-down dc/dc converter. You need to bypass that converter to power it from external 5V.
Let me draw some schematics tomorrow. This will be easier to explain.
For backlight:
You need to test that backlight will run from 5V. If yes, You can power it from USB or powerbank. But beware on long cables with high voltage drop. You need 4W, that's about 1A from USB while regular PC port should provide only 0.5A. If backlight cannot run from USB 5V, extra dc/dc converter cannot help. You need external 9V or 12V supply.

My solution for You: forget about 5V option. Run LVDS converter from 12V supply and power backlight from LVDS converter. This should save You a lot of time, problems and perhaps extra money for burned components. This also reduce wires inside tablet. Only drawback, You need 12V supply - power adapter, portable laptop charger or at least 12V battery.

Wiring for the digitizer are included in my build log. You need 3.3V power supply for digitizer. Then connect digitizer TX to Teensy RX and Teensy TX to digitizer RX. Both wires should have signal level converters. Next step: download WaxBee software (java required), generate firmware for Teensy and program it. I use Penenabled ISDV4 to Intuos2 12x18.tmpl.txt template without modifications. It works but still need some tweaks to fill whole screen. If Teensy are recognized by the OS, You should install drivers and test digitizer. Finally tweak digitizer resolution (WaxBee config options), program Teensy and that's should be all for digitizer.

here im confused again, what do i need exactly to drive the digitizer? because i thought waxbee is all i need.

I have looked into your thread but im just lost there. newb friendly hand holding guides is welcomed. i'm handy with electronics and soldering but new to programming micro controllers

i'll assume that controller board has me sorted for the screen itself so i will need a BOM for the digitizer part, some wireing diagrams and what ever i need for windows to understand it. I'm kinda hoping that its pretty straight forward plug and play as far as windows in concern apart from the basic driver package.

the way you are doing it is going to treat the screen as an intuos? not sure whats the difference to one directly attached to windows in its original form as a penable tablet.

sorry im not really experienced in the world of wacom and drawing tablets. I've only used One by wacom and a few penable tablets like the fujitsu and surface and thought it would be nice to have a pen enabled screen attached to my desktop for writing and sketching.

PS: NVM, i think i have a better understanding now, teensy is the controller and waxbee is the software layer. still something hands holding would help me better. do i need a specific teensy version and can i get 3.3v off the teensy or i need to get a DC step down

so... based off your pictures , i only need 4 wires in total off the wacom controller.

pin 9 RX and pin 10 TX into teensy's TX and RX respectively. pin 13 to its own 3.3v source (unless i can pinch that off the teensy) and pin 14 to ground.

teensy would need its own USB connection and 5v over USB.
For tablet You need 3.3V supply and serial interface with 3.3V voltage levels. By default Teensy work at 5V. In basic configuration You may need:
- Teensy 2.0,
- any 3.3V regulator (LDO, not the dc/dc),
- level converter,
- wires to connect everything.

If You are little advanced, You can modify Teensy to run at 3.3V by adding certain chip (3.3V LDO) and use this as power source for tablet. In this case You not need level converter, just:
- Teensy 2.0,
- MCP1825 chip,
- wires to connect everything,
- instructions that can be found here: http://forum.bongofish.co.uk/index.php?topic=2325.msg19054#msg19054
It's more elegant to chose second option with only 4 wires between Teensy and digitizer, nothing more around.

And instruction step by step.
1. Get Teensy. Modify from 5V to 3.3V. Connect it to the PC.
2. Get WaxBee software. Chose right template. In 'raw config editor' switch CPU clock from 16Mhz to 8Mhz. Program Teensy from WaxBee software.
3. Teensy should be visible as Wacom tablet. If You not have drivers for it, download from Wacom website.
4. Unplug Teensy. Connect digitizer to Teensy. Reconnect USB cable. Test how the digitizer works.
5. WaxBee doesn't math size of Your digitizer. Edit digitizer size in WaxBee config options and upload firmware again. After few tries You should find the right values. OR wait until I finish my mechanic part and start playing with programming.

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