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 11 
 on: May 12, 2017, 11:29:14 AM 
Started by Switz - Last post by Yoshidaka
I'm sure your message is very good. Get a lot of benefits.

 12 
 on: May 12, 2017, 11:29:08 AM 
Started by jonc22 - Last post by Yoshidaka
This information is very helpful to me.

 13 
 on: May 11, 2017, 08:33:24 AM 
Started by DaBotz - Last post by DaBotz
Find out that at 75 Hz refresh rate, the jitter goes down and - a bit -  the false click on the lower right corner of the screen, too.

I really have the "feeling" that the problem is the TCon board, so, if someone is interested in duplicating this build, shielding is paramount. And may be a good idea to strengthen locally the shielding on the right, as well as it may be a good idea to use a RF cage that is wide as the whole Intuos board (memo for myself, the next time I decide to overhaul one of my builds - it is odd that all my builds  with an RF cage for the TCon have the same kind of X-Axis jitter on the sides, where the cages end)

I tried to take a video of it working, to show the end result (with the weak and strong points of this build).

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LZ43OoJGGlg

 14 
 on: May 10, 2017, 08:02:28 PM 
Started by CableMender - Last post by Pesho
I know, right? I've been pondering the cheap DTZs on eBay, but everyone seems to think the Intuos 4 Cintiqs are miles apart. There's still a very good chance this thing is inoperable (or will be after I get my soldering iron in there), so don't count me too lucky yet.  Cheesy

Not really, i'd say they're just as good - it's just that DTK versions are usually more rare and expensive. I have a 12WX (DTZ-1200) here and there's honestly not much of a difference between it and the DTU-tech used in older Cintiqs and common TabletPC's. Most noticeable difference is that the grip pen is much nicer and with 2 buttons. The hover distance and report rate are better on DTZ but those don't matter as much.

The main issue I have read about the 21UX is that the screen is not spectacular and that it still shows some jitter on the borders (it still is a CCFL backlit panel, I fear).

My 12WX does jitter in the right side, that may be where the CCFL is. Corner-jitter is actually worse compared to a TabletPC digitizer and i don't know why! TabletPC digitizers are supposed to be "cheaper" but i really like their overall performance.

 15 
 on: May 10, 2017, 11:35:57 AM 
Started by CableMender - Last post by DaBotz
The main issue I have read about the 21UX is that the screen is not spectacular and that it still shows some jitter on the borders (it still is a CCFL backlit panel, I fear).

I kind of remember that someone has disassembled one of these and that, inside, the "monolitic" cable divides in a standard video cable, a USB cable and the power, and that they actually use a normal connector for the video (power and USB may need soldering or crimping).

If the thief that tried to steal it (the only scenario I can see where one may toss hundred dollars of worth, to gain a couple of minutes) has not cut the cables while it was operating, it should be not too hard to bring back to life.

 16 
 on: May 10, 2017, 12:14:55 AM 
Started by CableMender - Last post by CableMender
Aw man, DTK version too... I'm jelly.  Roll Eyes
I know, right? I've been pondering the cheap DTZs on eBay, but everyone seems to think the Intuos 4 Cintiqs are miles apart. There's still a very good chance this thing is inoperable (or will be after I get my soldering iron in there), so don't count me too lucky yet.  Cheesy

Quote
It's a 4-pin DIN connector

Woohoo! That's exactly what I just ordered. I must have assumed the old AT-style keyboard connectors were the only flavor of round DIN connector and discounted the lot of them. Everything should be here by Friday or early next week; I'll report back with pictures once I've had a chance to crack it open.

Thanks!

 17 
 on: May 09, 2017, 11:25:06 PM 
Started by CableMender - Last post by Pesho
Aw man, DTK version too... I'm jelly.  Roll Eyes

It's a 4-pin DIN connector, they use em for appliances that draw a lot of power at low voltages like 12V or so (Cintiq needs 7A). As with all these round DIN connectors the pin arrangement has different variations of the same pin count, but it shouldn't be too hard to find one from places like aliexpress or local electronics stores.


 18 
 on: May 09, 2017, 10:47:24 PM 
Started by CableMender - Last post by CableMender
"4pin CCTV power"

Thanks for the tip! These look really close, but most of the cables I'm finding associated with CCTV power have a square pin layout rather than the staggered pins the Cintiq expects, and the point-of-sale connectors that look staggered are seemingly impossible to buy as a female connector. I took my chances with a "Philmore EL5" connector end (apparently a type of DIN?) that should get here fast, but even with the correct pin layout I fully expect the dimensions will be all wrong:



I suspect there is a more specific connector designation that Wacom used in these Cintiqs...

 19 
 on: May 09, 2017, 09:58:16 PM 
Started by DaBotz - Last post by DaBotz
As a side note, things to consider whether using or not the Intuos 2 case:

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On top is the UBiQ2, below is the original Intuos 2 case.



Consider that, in building the UBiQ I added 14 mm ( 1/2 inch) on both width and length, simply because I wanted to add some threaded bolts so that it was possible to encase it in a light table, should I ever build another one.

In other words, a plywood-made case is at worst as big as the Intuos 2 case, or smaller... and it took an hour to mount and glue it.

Modding the Intuos case for the UBiQ 3 required some four days... and it does not feel anywhere near as sturdy.

 20 
 on: May 09, 2017, 09:50:12 PM 
Started by Ertew - Last post by Ertew
<censored /> yeah! I finally got microUSB plug. Attached it to Pro Micro and everything working well. So, back to durable USB socket reinforced with plywood.
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Let's finish this project (and start another).
All pieces on back of my screen. Removed white connector from LCD/LVDS cable. Added small prototype PCB for buttons and LEDs. Board for digitizer glued to the plywood.
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Pro micro stick behind USB connector. All pieces connected. Extra space will be utilized by potentiometer (attached to one of ADC inputs) as soon as I discover how to recompile WaxBee firmware with adding extra piece of code (the idea: analog -> PWM -> backlight dimming).
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And ZOOM view.
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Because I have spare output from digitizer (high when detect pen) and doesn't have any driver for NUM/Caps/Scroll/Lock LEDs I decided to wire them together  Grin
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Everything tested and working OK. No jitter, as expected. Only small hysteresis, something about 1px.
Screen resolution: 1280 x 800px. Digitizer resolution between 1 and 2 points per pixel.

And that's all. Final photos will be posted at first post of this topic. Any comments are welcome.

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