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 11 
 on: August 17, 2017, 02:50:50 AM 
Started by jedikalimero - Last post by jedikalimero
As I see, digitizer board have two main chips and strange connector to LCD board.
First chip, lets say USB chip, working fully or partially. USB and buttons working. Communication with second chip may be broken.
Second chip, let say Digitizer chip, may be broken or waiting for signal from display controller.

IMHO both boards may need repair.

U5 is M16C R5F36CAMNFB and is the chip connected directly to the USB D- and D+ signals (through resistors). It is a microcomputer with its own memory, DMA, etc commonly used in USB devices.
U6 is the Wacom chip W4027F. This is the chip that locates the stylus and processes the signals from it. It is also present in the Intuos tablets.

 12 
 on: August 16, 2017, 10:39:51 PM 
Started by jedikalimero - Last post by Ertew
As I see, digitizer board have two main chips and strange connector to LCD board.
First chip, lets say USB chip, working fully or partially. USB and buttons working. Communication with second chip may be broken.
Second chip, let say Digitizer chip, may be broken or waiting for signal from display controller.

IMHO both boards may need repair.

 13 
 on: August 16, 2017, 09:57:45 PM 
Started by Drewid - Last post by Ertew
Hi.

As You can (cannot) see, single broken solder joints cannot be fixed because You cannot see the problem.
If there are soldering problem I will try to locate what section are responsible for 2cm gap, then use hot air for resolder many components, including two biggest chips. You can easily found guys with hot air at laptop/consoles service point, maybe at phone service point too.

Alternative way - try freezing spray (or compressed air can applied upside down) and hair drier. Maybe hot or cold temperatures temporary fix problem so You can narrow area then use hand solder.

If both methods fail, repair may required multichannel oscilloscope to locate broken component or track.

 14 
 on: August 16, 2017, 09:39:15 PM 
Started by Aerendraca - Last post by DaBotz
Note on FCC ID - as far as I can tell, Wacom is identified by an "applicant id" HV4 -
as a matter of fact, all wacom authorization requests can be found here:

https://fccid.io/HV4

Then, the ID of the single product is often, simply, obtained by adding the Wacom  model ID, removing the hyphens.

Thus the Cintiq 21UX - model DTK2100 - has simply the  FCC ID HV4DTK2100

The tablet doesn't always follow the schema...

The Intuos 2 seems to be simply the HV4XD, for example.


 

 15 
 on: August 16, 2017, 08:48:48 PM 
Started by jedikalimero - Last post by jedikalimero
Here are a couple of HI RES pictures I took of the motherboard using a scanner:







 16 
 on: August 16, 2017, 07:03:19 PM 
Started by jedikalimero - Last post by jedikalimero
Hello again.
Here are the pictures. I took several more pictures than needed just in case they help to somebody else needing to disassemble a DTK-2100.

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I have checked the connection between the Cintiq motherboard and the Display controller, not only pint to pin but following the tracks to the first component connected to each pin and it is OK, so the problem MUST be located in the Cintiq motherboard or the sensor matrix.

But in case the problem was in the sensor matrix, I guess I would get vertical or horizontal areas in the screen where the pen is not detected but not a complete lack of response everywhere.

 17 
 on: August 15, 2017, 07:07:37 PM 
Started by Drewid - Last post by Drewid
Hello.

Long time no post and all that  Grin   

I have a similar problem to the guy in the,  dropped 21UX thread.
I've snagged myself a dirt cheap 21UX. It was cheap because a strip (about 2cm across the whole center of the screen) isn't picking the pen up. I figured it might be a loose ribbon cable but it doesn't look like that's it. (re-seated all the cables and no change)
This is the main board:
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It's going to be one of these circuits in the middle

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 I was hoping for an missing SMD or dry joint something but there isn't anything obvious that I can see.
I'm not really into electronics above the simple soldering and testing level but I'll give anything a go. 
I may have to try to get a replacement board from somewhere, perhaps a scrap one with a cracked screen or something.



 

 18 
 on: August 09, 2017, 03:00:39 PM 
Started by jedikalimero - Last post by XDjackieXD
XDjackieXD: You have different experience than me. Can You wrote Your guesses what may be wrong?
Well I don't know the wacom boards but usually board to board connectors and cold solder joints are what fail after a drop (at least that's my experience with stuff like audio mixers, laptops and many other things I repaired so far)

 19 
 on: August 08, 2017, 04:59:03 PM 
Started by Aerendraca - Last post by Ertew
Nice trick with oled polarizer.
I must warn You. UV filter (often integrated with polarizer) is must have for outdoor OLEDs. Without that filter, OLED will be degraded by the UV light.
Hope You not have too much UV light near tablet.

Back to topic. ATA cable is OK for LVDS (USB 1.1 should be fine too), but flat SCSI cable are better because it have twisted pairs. Just look at attachment. 68pin connectors identical to ATA connectors are available too.

 20 
 on: August 08, 2017, 04:55:21 PM 
Started by PsychoNerd91 - Last post by Pesho
You won't have any trouble getting the digitizer to work with a teensy, but you need to make sure you have a datasheet for your particular screen. I have this LCD assembly from a Portege R400 and though the digitizer works great, finding a datasheet for that particular Toshiba screen has been a major pain in the ass.

 If you can find a datasheet for your screen you should be all set - just order a controller board and a Teensy and start thinking about how to build the housing. Often using the laptop's upper half as a housing and screwing a box with the controller on the back is a good solution.

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