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 21 
 on: October 24, 2017, 09:26:10 PM 
Started by jedikalimero - Last post by jedikalimero
Unless you get it etched in the areas you need to paint, or have a specific paint, the tendency to peel off is to be expected. 

Yes, but the original glass had the border painted in black and it doesn't peels off at all. As I said, you need to scratch hard with an exacto knife or similar to remove it and even so, it is not easy to remove.

 22 
 on: October 24, 2017, 11:24:02 AM 
Started by jedikalimero - Last post by DaBotz
Glass is a slippery material.

Unless you get it etched in the areas you need to paint, or have a specific paint, the tendency to peel off is to be expected. 

(By the way, for both things, the easiest way to do it is going to a local glass shop and ask them - they likely have the right paint and can even etch the borders to make it stick better, if necessary... )
 

 23 
 on: October 24, 2017, 03:40:45 AM 
Started by jedikalimero - Last post by jedikalimero
I have the glass to replace the one I broke. It is 2mm matt glass. So to hide the metal edges of the LCD and double-sided tape, I tried to paint the black border as in the original glass, but things did not work as I thought. I spray painted it on the inside but the paint does not stick well to the glass and it "peels". Obviously, if I stick this to the double-sided tape, what will stick is not the glass but the paint that will come off and the glass will be loose.
The original glass was painted black at the edge but this paint work does not peel off. You'd have to scratch it with a cutter for it to come out and still it's fucking hard. The one I sprayed comes out just by thumb rubbing it.
Anybody knows of another technique that I could try?
 I made the Wacom logo hand painted with a silver Sharpie in the inside side and then sprayed the black paint
Over it. It looks so great it is a pity all this effort is worthless

 24 
 on: October 24, 2017, 03:23:14 AM 
Started by JaseBristol - Last post by jedikalimero
I have a ExpressKeys remote that I have been using for long with my Intuos Pro L with the same drivers. I have also tested it with the Cintiq 21UX DTK I'm trying to revive and that is from the same period of the Intuos 4. It should also work with an Intuos 4. I have not tested it yet but I can try tomorrow.
About the Intuos 2, I'm afraid it is too old so the drivers for modern tablets don't cover it (or the Intuos 3). You could try and install both drivers but I'm not sure if this would work since Windows will probably believe they are two versions of the same driver and not allow both drivers running at the same time.
I have also tried both the drivers of intuos 4 and a Bamboo and they both can coexist in the same computer but they are two different drivers so there is no conflict for Windows.
I think one thing worth trying would be to hack the intuos 2 driver so Windows identifies it as a different driver so you can install and use both. The driver for the intuos 4 appears in my computer as the service "wacom professional tablet driver" while the Bamboo driver appears under a similar but different name. If you manage to hack the intuos 2 driver so it is identified as a different driver/service/whatever, maybe you will be able to open both Wacom control panels to configure both devices separately but working at the same time.

 25 
 on: October 21, 2017, 01:30:07 AM 
Started by zithe1 - Last post by JohnnyNyvo
glad to hear you guys are OK, sounds like a close call...the pics i have seen of the damage are pretty bad.

 26 
 on: October 13, 2017, 11:04:09 AM 
Started by JaseBristol - Last post by DaBotz
As far as I know, the last Wacom driver that works with the Intuos 2 is the 6.2.0_w5, however I do not think that it supports the ExpressKey remote, which is a shame because it is really a nice piece of hardware and I know it does not work with my Intuos 4 (errata corrige, I meant intuos 2).

You can try and look if they released a newer driver for the Intuos 2, in which case, let me know.

Personally, to "emulate" the ExpressKey, I use a wireless numeric pad with "function stickers" on the keys https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8DSNOz1PxNE&t=452s
in conjunction with a "daemon" that changes its configuration files depending onn the active windows executable.

Pretty crude, no display and you must find a work to get it to keep position once the rubber pads at its back fall off (the grease from the hand palm "sneaked up" and dissolved the glue, in a couople of months - I am using a counterweighted parallelogram, reminiscent of some old technical drafting machines ), but it works...


P.S. would you mind publish a photo of your finished build? When I made my first Intuos 2 XL build, I didn't realize that your machine was a functional one until after I bought a first screen... you managed to get it working, and never posted a shot of the completed thing.

 27 
 on: October 12, 2017, 10:13:36 AM 
Started by JaseBristol - Last post by JaseBristol
Hi,

I created a build a few years ago which is working well, with Intuos 2 A3 ( XD-1218U-D)  using WacomTablet_6.1.7-3 drivers.
I use the mapping section in the driver panel to calibrate the pen and the portion of screen / tablet area.

I have a Wacom ExpressKey remote which i would like to try and get to work with this.
the new drivers WacomTablet_6.3.24-5a don't recognize my tablet or have a mapping section to calibrate the pen.

Has anyone got any suggestions i could try?
Can i take a file from the new drivers and mix it with the old driver ?

 28 
 on: October 09, 2017, 12:37:39 PM 
Started by Aerendraca - Last post by DaBotz
I finally decided to buy a colorimeter, calibrated and profiled all of my monitors ( next time, Spyder [1-5] PRO is to be preferred, as it supports multi monitor, while the "Express" goes out of his way to avoid you using a different version of the profile it create for each monitors).

Not sure if the colorimeter itself has not some instrumental derive, as they all seems a bit "orange" now... maybe I was just used to screens pushing out a bit too much blue (*).

UbiQ2 and UBiQ3 ( LG IPS224v, LG 20MP48a ) have virtually the same profile, and are very similar to the Dell 19" that I thought to use as "repeater" in case UBiQ2 was  worse.

The LP097x02 SLEA (from the Ipad 1 - 2 ) of  the MiniQ gets spanked in a horrible way (even by the stegosaurus of my monitors, the IBM 9493 I tried to use  for an A4 build, that still manages a 77% of sRGB and a 59% of AdobeRGB against MiniQ 68%-50%... I forgot to take a shot of that, my bad).  





Further enquiries have led me to discover that these colorimeters are calibrated to emulate light from the Sun - at 6500 k - reflected by paper, as their purpose it to get the screens a bit closer to how printed photos would be seen in daylight, whereas most LCD screens are natively set to work with a colder hue - so that the profiled screens produce a "warmer" tone is simply to be expected.


 29 
 on: October 08, 2017, 08:37:05 PM 
Started by DaBotz - Last post by DaBotz
I really like your drawing style; I particularly like the last picture of john's spirit.

Wowser from me as well.  Nicely done.

Thanks. In effect, building my "...IQ"s helped me more than a bit, as I have not the steadiest hand on the planet, and using detached tablets  was a bother when doing this kind of drawings.

Meshing screen and tablet together was more or less "what the doctor orders".

Only thing, If I had bought an Intuo 4 XL instead of the L that I got, I would probably have built only one of these things, instead of five...

 30 
 on: October 07, 2017, 10:01:08 PM 
Started by DaBotz - Last post by Drewid
Wowser from me as well.  Nicely done.

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