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 on: December 10, 2017, 04:47:58 PM 
Started by ohgodhowdoiusekeyboard - Last post by Ertew
If possible, purchase Teensy in 3v3 or 3.3v version. If not, purchase separate 3.3V LDO (low dropout voltage regulator). Here are instruction how to install that regulator:

Teensy can run either from 5V (USB), 3.3V (external supply) or 3.3V (USB + soldered LDO) but digitizer can run only on 3.3V. Connecting them to anything higher than 3.6V may destroy them permanently (not tested yet Wink ). On board 3.3V voltage regulator is much simpler than external one.

I chose external one because Pro Micro doesn't have place for internal one.
Here are my build log (missing pics):
And here are translated version with pics:

 on: December 10, 2017, 04:18:15 AM 
Started by ohgodhowdoiusekeyboard - Last post by ohgodhowdoiusekeyboard
That's brilliant! Thanks for the tips. I've ordered some Tensy boards and I'll get the readings for the different wires when I have a bit of time to spare.

 on: December 09, 2017, 01:51:06 PM 
Started by ohgodhowdoiusekeyboard - Last post by Ertew
Clamp meter can measure current only. You need classic meter with two probes.
The best way I found is to attach negative meter input to metal shield of any connector (USB, VGA, etc.) then touch each pin (separately) with positive meter probe and read voltage.

For negative meter input I prefer to put meter probe in VGA screw or unscrew it and use that screw to mount copper wire. Here example photo with removed screws: just use force and twist that screw. It's designed to be unscrewed if need.

 on: December 09, 2017, 01:42:30 AM 
Started by ohgodhowdoiusekeyboard - Last post by ohgodhowdoiusekeyboard
Yeah, both system boards still work and the digitzers also worked (although I did accidentally cut one of the monitor cables while taking apart one of the laptops). What would be the best way to measure the voltage across the line? The cables on the connector are minuscule and I'm not exactly sure if it would be best to try and strip some of the insulation or to just get a clamp meter.

 on: December 08, 2017, 05:57:47 PM 
Started by ohgodhowdoiusekeyboard - Last post by Ertew
Does the M400 working? I mean boot to OS and pen working?
If M400 still working, please check voltages on each pin (each wire). I'm worried about pin 1 (left blue wire). Manufacturer need to add that wire so there are risk that digitizer may not work without it.

If we forget about pin 1, connector looks like standard "14-pin" as described here:
You need pins 9 (RXD), 10 (TXD), 13 (3v3), 14 (GND). Pins 7, 8 and 12 are mostly useless. Pin 11 can be use just for fun (connect LED that shines when digitizer detects pen).

If You wish to use this digitizer with Linux, You can use USB->serial converter. If You want to use this digitizer across many platforms, WaxBee converter is the only working solution.
More info about WaxBee can be found on this forum.

 on: December 08, 2017, 05:56:30 AM 
Started by ohgodhowdoiusekeyboard - Last post by ohgodhowdoiusekeyboard

I recently acquired two Toshiba Portege M400s and since the hardware in those is pretty old and therefore pretty useless I was hoping to take the screens and convert them into cheapo drawing tablets for my other PCs. The monitor part is fairly straight forward but I can't for the life of me work out how I'm supposed to connect to the Wacom controller board. I've read several threads on this forum but haven't seen any post with a similar configuration to that in these laptops. I'm kind of scared I might feed 5v into one of the ground connections if I start prodding around and as such I was hoping one of you folks could help me out.

Here are some pictures of the digitizer board and the connector that was used to interface with the motherboard:

Any help would be much appreciated.

 on: December 08, 2017, 05:41:50 AM 
Started by Switz - Last post by ohgodhowdoiusekeyboard
Hello, I created an account here because I'm having some issues with some Wacom digitizers and I'm hoping some of the resourceful individuals here will be able to help.


 on: December 01, 2017, 05:33:53 PM 
Started by Switz - Last post by Lapponi
Thanks for sharing your experiences. I guess I'll stay away from that model.

 on: November 22, 2017, 11:28:22 AM 
Started by bumhee34 - Last post by rackoony
Maybe I found the answer here in this Korean blog:
Optimal position, tablet coordinates, and monitor refresh rate control also help you tremble.

(Based on the AOC monitor), the scan rate was changed to 51 Hz, except for slight tremors

In the real working area, I felt no tremors, and the pointers fit correctly

I hope this helps anyone looking for info on the AOC.

 on: November 16, 2017, 09:29:40 AM 
Started by hyj2653 - Last post by hyj2653
Hello everyone!

Might see me in previous topic which 'bumhee34' have been posted.

I've almost done my DIY project, and I think it's time to post on the bongofish forum.

These are the main parts that I've used.

Tablet : Wacom intuos 4 (PTK-640)

LCD : B101UAN02.1  (IPS, 10.1, 1920*1200, 8BIT)

Capacitive Touch Digitizer : VS101TC01-A2  (10Point)

OS : Windows 10 after RS1 (to use touch ignore function while using pen)

Extra : USB switch hub, Potentiometer which have on/off switch function on it, lots of tapes and 3D ABS filaments...

More Things to do : Close the rear boards case, Print io port sheild and close it, stand holder installation.

and good to go.

Almost assembled DIY tablet (only rear board cover and stand holder is missing)

I don't wanna connect two USB wire for each tablet and touch.

So, it gathered in to USB hub and connected as USB Micro B type (aka.oldschool android phone port)

Here is video of testing pen, touch, touch ignored when pen recorgnized, palm rejection function.

I'll upload more notes and full making film when I've finished  Smiley

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