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 on: May 09, 2017, 09:28:27 PM 
Started by CableMender - Last post by Ertew
Look for "4pin CCTV power", you will found that very similar plugs are used for powering analog CCTV cameras. Some links below.


 on: May 09, 2017, 09:18:31 PM 
Started by Aerendraca - Last post by DaBotz
1. Almost no jitters
2. 1.1 ( 2 along at the top and lower borders, near the CCFL lamps)
3. Intuos2 12x12 (XD-1212-U)
4. HP LE2201w - Panel: Samsung LTM220MT05
5. 1680x1050 (1680x1050)
6. No (not even tried)
7. Note: the screen was already used with a 12x18 Intuos 2 (see entry above), and produced some more jitter with that, as the digitizer intercepted noise from its whole area (and its whole TCON-board length).
Jitter is about one pixel, pretty "slow" in frequency, in almost all the available tablet space, with no false clics.
The last cm near the upper lamp, jitter is more appreciable... but there are seldom useful GUI elements there anyway.
8. Yes, if one do not mind having 3 inches of unreachable screen on both sides, it still gives about 16,5" of drawing area in its middle ( 0r, 1070 x 1050 pixels)  .

 on: May 09, 2017, 08:52:19 PM 
Started by DaBotz - Last post by DaBotz
Update on the old big monster...

After having shoved a Intuos 2 12x12 inside, I did not use it much as a tablet, as I made the mistake of letting the tablet all on one side (as not to carve more the panel that holds it in the "subassembly" ).

However, these last few days I could not bear its black mass  any more (which was among the reasons why I decided to try with the LG 20MP48, when I got another Intuos 2 extralarge... also, I wanted an IPS led), so I decided to overhaul it a bit.

I planned changing its "front plate" to a yellow one (yes, it's cardboard... so, it is not a big work to do) and, as I was opening it, cleaning up a bit things ( I added some threaded holes in the back, last time I modified it, and let the wood dust go around) and centering both the screen, and the tablet behind it, around the middle line of the case (before, I left an offset to the right of a cm or so, so that I could leave  numeric pad on the left side).

I verified that, without the noise produced by the screen borders (or, maybe, by the bending of the EM field around the ends of the TCon board RF cage) , the jitter is down yet a notch and is on par with that that affects its successor's centre.

I do not know how I am going to use it, as its bulk is still a bit in the way ( though it is far less depressing, now that it is not a black slab any more)  of a use as a second Cintiq (or, ahem, 3rd cintiq, in my case) , but I wanted to report it.

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 on: May 09, 2017, 07:16:04 PM 
Started by DaBotz - Last post by DaBotz
I added my habitual common mode chokes on the USB and power cables, and moved the thing to its final location/computer.

This has usefully reduced a bit the false clicks on the 2nd button (now they are just some, and only on the lower right border of the screen).

A "smart" repartition of GUI elements (i.e. on the right, I left only things that are "click and choose"... anything that needs move sliders would require far better precision) made it pretty usable.

As a final touch, I placed a 3mm thick glass, with margins spray-painted in black, on top of it.

As it is...
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A drawing done with it.
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Note: setting the refresh rate at 75hz improved things yet a bit.

 on: May 09, 2017, 01:12:49 AM 
Started by CableMender - Last post by CableMender
Hi, Bongofish forum! I'm here at this repository of Wacom hacking knowledge because I've just purchased a Cintiq 21UX DTK-2100 for the shockingly low price of ~$75 USD. There's just one little problem with it - some absolute animal decided unplugging it was took much work!

I have a bit of an electronics workshop shaping up, so this looked like equal parts tragedy and challenge. Once the Cintiq arrives later this week and I get a look inside, I figure I might have a shot at resurrecting this old girl, though I'm anticipating plenty of hurdles in my path. The first presented itself today: I received a third-party power supply that is allegedly compatible with this exact model (~$15), but I've never seen anything like the round 4-pin connector that is expecting to interface with the Cintiq:

Better pictures can be provided, but anyone familiar with these older Cintiqs probably wouldn't need them. So, what the heck is this? It's not an S-video connector, not a PS/2 connector, not a DIN connector, not even an Apple Desktop Bus connector. The closest thing I've found is a kind of connector for powering LED light strips, but even though this has the correct ratios with the "top" pins spaced closer than the other two, the dimensions are all wrong - 4.6mm between the top pins when the connector in my hand is closer to 3.0mm center-to-center, 5.4mm between the bottom when I measure more like 4.5mm, pins 1.5mm in diameter when mine look more like 1.0mm:

I'll chop this power supply apart if I really have to, but I would infinitely prefer to find a proper plug for it. So did Wacom really engineer these older Cintiqs with proprietary, unbuyable power connectors, or have I just not stumbled upon the correct round 4-pin socket type?  Huh

 on: May 09, 2017, 12:35:38 AM 
Started by Switz - Last post by CableMender
Hi! I just managed to get a Cintiq 21UX from eBay for a very nice price, but with one little caveat - the entire cable has been sliced off! This might be the most knowledgeable collection of Wacom hackers on the Internet, so I'm hoping some will be able to provide me with pinouts and other assistance as I stumble through trying to resurrect this thing.

 on: May 07, 2017, 10:06:01 AM 
Started by Forestfrog - Last post by DaBotz
The important part is being able to draw... if fiddling with the Ribbtiq and then comparing it, the 21UX and the UGee got you to find a way to use the latter to better results, I think that it is just right

 on: May 03, 2017, 09:45:23 PM 
Started by Ertew - Last post by Ertew
Sorry about long delay. I need to sell one of my Pro Micros to my friend (ASAP project, even 24h waiting for original board will ruin it). I think that I still have second one, but it's disappear  Angry so extra 40 days of waiting.
One problem solved, few next appear.

Part 3b - finishing mechanical assembly
First, hole to pass cables.
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Next, quick check if LCD and converter still working. Beware, backlight driver (build-in) need something about 12V.
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Yep, it's working. Changing language to english are simply, just need to discover pinout for keypad. Backlight driver working when applied +12V (LED sypply) and +3.3V (driver supply) for whole LCD.
- wire laptop buttons to LVDS converter (maybe IR receiver too),
- backlight dimming.

Part 4 - WaxBee converter
I not thrust SMT connectors, especially micro USB. First I decided to solder short wires between board and USB-B socket (call it printer-type USB).
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But I lost half day and two 22 ohm resistors on PCB without positive effect. Looks like signal from Atmega32U4 need to past through micro-USB connector, then I can cut cable and pass signal through USB-B adapter and next cable. I will test this solution later. Today I will stay with delicate micro USB socket.
Actually WaxBee have nice place next to LVDS converter. Plywood have few gaps designed to fix USB-B board.

Wiring digitizer.
I have finished small PCB which I used to earlier tests. I should remove it, but 3.3V LDO fits here nicely.
I only use 3 wires: VCC, GND and RX because digitizer should work without any extra command.
This decision was big mistake. Digitizer can run without commands but cannot run with random commands - RX pin floating. As a result, WaxBee perfectly read X/Y position but cannot read buttons and pressure  Angry
Finding cause of the problem was rather funny. As soon as I connect RX pin to VCC, problems disappear. But later I decide to play fair and connect digitizer RX to WaxBee TX via extra 1k resistor (standard 10k resistor are build-in on digitizer board).

Wacom template.
I use standard template, Penenabled ISDV4 to Intuos2 12x18
For my digitizer, max X = 28811, max Y = 18083. Digitizer active area are bigger than LCD active area. I need to trim that, min values too, but that will be done later.

- trim min/max for coordinates for digitizer,
- connect all parts at once and test jetter,
- clean front glass on both sides.

 on: May 02, 2017, 05:17:45 PM 
Started by dpaint - Last post by Forestfrog
Hey dpaint,

I've got the Ugee 2150, which is the same model (final proof for me was that I can use the XP-Pen driver all the same, also the xp-pen driver is marked as from "Gangzhou Ugee"...).

No pen tilt detection.

Very nice screen.

Driver is fickle - seems to work well with the Windows (7 Pro 64-Bit) included screen driver, but has some offset with the AMD (catalyst/crimson) driver. Made me despair the first time, by know I am 99% to a (for me) workable setup, so I am sticking with it.

Any further specific question, ask away.

 on: May 01, 2017, 08:27:47 PM 
Started by Forestfrog - Last post by Forestfrog
Hi everyone,

long time no update annnnd - likely not one for a good chunk of time to come.

In the meantime two things happened: I got my hands on a 21UX (Intuos3 base) only to find out that it wasn't the revelation I expected it to be. The less than stellar screen, the drawing surface and the light jitter ot the top/bottom of the screen all came together to make it "ok" at best for me. Plus the hefty weight, the special power-plug... it is sitting on a shelf now until I have decided if to sell it or keep it for testing/comparison.

The other thing - I gave my Ugee tablet another go and noticed, that it is almost spot-on without any calibration if I go with windows-driver only and install no AMD GPU driver. Keeping it like that causes other issues, but all in all, with the far better screen and closing in on a working solution, I decided to put the Ribbitiq on a very low backburner. I might fiddle with it now and then again, but as I mostly want to draw and may have a solution at hand - it isn't as urgent as before.

I will still check now and then if there are questions or anything, but updates may take a long time.


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