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 21 
 on: June 22, 2017, 02:56:08 PM 
Started by DaBotz - Last post by DaBotz
A little time ago, I ceded to a temptation - an Intuos 2 12x12 USB, for 1euro (+10 of shipping fees).

The guy selling it wasn't sure it worked, it lacked a button (not really... just that odd cover that is in place of a Reset button used in some iteration of the serial connection tablets) and had no pen, but the light went up when attached to the usb, and the computer "saw" it.

Being educated in the ways of Bongofishism, I gambled on it having nothing more than marks and scruffs.

For a while, it has sat around in my drawing place, waiting for the future.

Then, a month or so, I was struck by yet another attack of Cintiquism, and went on ebay for a cheap 15" with external power brick - possibly with DVI connection.

The few I saw asked too much money, for my taste (this would be my sixth build, after all), but I finally saw an IBM 9493-ag1 for 25 Euros, shipping included.

[ Attachment: You are not allowed to view attachments ]

I checked its service manual, found on-line ( https://www.manualslib.com/manual/963035/Ibm-9493-Aw1.html ) , and saw that it had an internal (hidden below a cover) DVI input socket, that went to the outside through a DVI to D-Sub (VGA) cable.

It also had replaceable CCFL lamps (which were likely in need to be replaced, as this is a business monitor and must have logged in 8 hours a day since the day it was bought).

Alas, I didn't peruse the manual long enough, or I would have seen that the LCD is a LG LM151X2-F2MN,  attached to the monitor module through a Hirose DF9-41p connector, and a whole twelve cm or so  (say, 5" in imperial units) of cable.

I so hoped it would be a 30 lines LVDS on a 1mm pitch FFC (like in the three LG monitors that I have opened).   

[ Attachment: You are not allowed to view attachments ]

That is going to bite my ass...

Also, it is a 6 bit LCD (whoops - this wasn't going to be a "main battle Cintiq", anyway, just another "fast selection" screen, if it is not too messy, jitterwise - also, I hope that IBM did a good job with dithering, in the monitor firmware).

It arrived in a couple of days, and I immediately realized that the CCFL were - if not almost dead - very well ripe.

It took a minute or so to reach full brightness, on switch-on, and it wasn't much bright, anyway

I decided to invest some more 9 $ to buy one of those "Upgrade to LED" kits, before opening up the screen.

I am sorry that I did not take pictures of the disassembly of the monitor (extremely well put together... it has more screws and RF cage than those present in all the monitors I dismounted to date), but it is actually detailed in the service manual (so, it would be a a bit redundant).

When I reached finally inside the monitor, I saw the damn "Hirose on a short leash" connection, then saw that the back metal plate of the LCD was simply attached to a white plastic frame, and could be removed without opening the LCD panel (Good).

The CCFL are in pretty sturdy assemblies with a steel beam-channel containing them, and slide in-out of the panel pretty easily - so I could replace them with the LED bars, in a matter of an hour or so, ONCE I understood which cables are what.

In fact, instead of the 4 cables I expected, the inverter assembly - a Samsung LG1501 - was connected to the monitor's module with a ten pin connector, and ten individual lines (note: even if on my monitor, a permanent marker line marked the monitor module side, it doesn't matter if one's inverts the head or tail of the ten-lines, as they are flipped in the travel from one side to another)

Initially, I was perplexed, however a couple of continuity tests at monitor unplugged from the power grid and some final corroboration with it switched on and off, gave this pretty simple pin-out

     +5V       What the hell are these for?
     +5V

     0V - GND
     0V - GND
    
     +4.9 V (on) / 0V (off )  -  enable , or enable+d¡m? I failed to see any difference in the value, though, when I dimmed down the brightness

     -0.1  V (Huh??)

     0V - GND
     0V - GND
 
     24V
     24V

Notable miss: which is the damn dim line? No idea.

I removed the LCD backplate; probably, sanding/filing down the plastic sprockets that hold it in place could lower its height 1-1.5 mm.

However, I saw something that just a couple of years ago would have been a snafu, for me - it has two PCBs, one folded back for the column driver, a more components heavy one for the row driver, connected by a 20 lines, 0.5mm pitch flexible PCB.

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I bought and extender, from an Italian seller, and some 15cm (note: it is a bit tight; it would be better some ten cm, or so, more) of the correspondent FFC.

Once I got the extender and the FFC, I folded out the main PCB, and extended the lines of one CCFL, to see if this mod works.


It does.

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(Note that, at full brightness, Photoshop retouch wasn't needed to see around the screen)

Yesterday I received the LED kit, and I proceeded to replace the CCFL.

[ Attachment: You are not allowed to view attachments ]
(Retouched with Photoshop; even this way, the "aura" of the screen, with the LED, is well visible.)

It works as expected, at least twice as bright as before, but at the moment I have no dimming whatsoever.

Someone has any idea / suggestion?  
  

 22 
 on: June 21, 2017, 12:51:32 PM 
Started by axel9546 - Last post by DaBotz
Note... I checked the TCon heats up, on my builds too.

I wouldn't be too worried about it, apart that it becomes a mess to work on them when the weather is warm.


Pens and screen borders is often a bit of a mess... typically, one must accept that the pen will "go away" in the area near the horizontal or vertical border of the tablet.

The best you can do is to calibrate it so that the pen is reasonably accurate in the widest possible area... not being able to go on the borders complicates a tiny bit the calibration.

Check the Simtiq planner   ( https://www.dropbox.com/s/676vr2qyxeuhab2/simtiq_planner.html?dl=1 ) to have an idea of the initial values.

Given the data of your screen, you should reduce the projection on the screen some 60 pixeels for each side (so, left, 60, right 1860) and see how it goes  from there.

(in your case, you have to change the screen projection, not the tablet area, to tune the X axis )




 23 
 on: June 20, 2017, 08:22:09 AM 
Started by axel9546 - Last post by axel9546
For the LCD, it depends on the kind of modifications you had to do to it to let the pens signal go through.

If you had to eliminate stuff that could act as an heat-sink, it's actual temperature is probably higher than the original (and optimal), so adding an heat-sink for the led strip could be a good idea.

If it is hot the TCon-Board... are you sure the Converter board is supplying the right voltage to the panel?

On the side of the converter board, I  am a bit more dubious... but, then again, I never checked the temperature of the controller boards in my builds (of the 5, three were actual desktop monitors, so compatibility among the various parts was a given).

I never noticed them to get "very hot" - using  thermometer to get a temperature could give some hard facts on which guess - , though.

Okay i Will try for anche heatsink.Anyway in stuck to calibration. Tried 3h or calibration and Pen at the center of the LCD its okay, but when i move to the right or left, not follow well the Pen

 24 
 on: June 20, 2017, 12:22:03 AM 
Started by axel9546 - Last post by DaBotz
For the LCD, it depends on the kind of modifications you had to do to it to let the pens signal go through.

If you had to eliminate stuff that could act as an heat-sink, it's actual temperature is probably higher than the original (and optimal), so adding an heat-sink for the led strip could be a good idea.

If it is hot the TCon-Board... are you sure the Converter board is supplying the right voltage to the panel?

On the side of the converter board, I  am a bit more dubious... but, then again, I never checked the temperature of the controller boards in my builds (of the 5, three were actual desktop monitors, so compatibility among the various parts was a given).

I never noticed them to get "very hot" - using  thermometer to get a temperature could give some hard facts on which guess - , though.

 25 
 on: June 19, 2017, 11:28:06 PM 
Started by axel9546 - Last post by axel9546
A 15.6" is a 16:9 LCD which is wider thasn the active area, yet shorter than it... it is a particularly complex situation because you need to calibrate the Table AND the proyection on the screen.

My biggest builds are in the same situation, so this may help you...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rRXBb_hafAY

To build the thing, you can try to place it so that cursor and pen coincide at the centre, then work up on one dimension (for example, height, by reducing the tablet active area), then the other (width, you'll have to reduce the projection on screen), then again on the height...

Place things so that they touch on the middle is, just to help you get started.

You may revise the build to leave what little active area is free all on one side (because, if you have a screen that is placed where the projection of that "excess" area is, the pen will be able to reach it) but, as you are getting sizes, let it for after (once you got how to calibrate the build - fist time took me 30 minutes, now I do it in a couple of minutes or so).

I usually leave "all on top" -  I keep a small screen above my main drawing machine, where I leave VLC playing some series... I have enough "excess pen area" to go up and click the controls and the seek bar of VLC at full screen.

 
Okay in trying to do this! Smiley.
Also i have to see If there is some jitter i Will Say u If there is.
The main thing its that the LCD and the converter board gets really hot .. Its normal??

 26 
 on: June 19, 2017, 11:20:14 PM 
Started by axel9546 - Last post by DaBotz
A 15.6" is a 16:9 LCD which is wider than the active area of an Intuos 4 L, yet shorter than it is... it is a particularly complex situation because you need to calibrate the Table AND the projection on the screen.

My biggest builds are in the same situation, so this may help you...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rRXBb_hafAY

To build the thing, you can try to place it so that cursor and pen coincide at the centre, then work on one dimension (for example, height, by reducing the tablet active area), then the other (width, you'll have to reduce the projection on screen), then again on the first...

I suggest to place things so that they touch on the middle is, just to help you getting started.

You may revise the build to leave what little active area is free all on one side (because, if you have a screen that is placed where the projection of that "excess" area is, the pen will be able to reach it) but, as you are getting sizes, let it for after (once you got how to calibrate the build - fist time took me 30 minutes, now I do it in a couple of minutes or so).

I usually leave "all on top" -  I keep a small screen above my main drawing machine, where I leave VLC playing some series... I have enough "excess pen area" to go up and click the controls and the seek bar of VLC at full screen.

The most important thing, anyway, is to have screen and digitizer as parallel as possible...

As for the warmth, it is a common problem...If the screen has the LCD strip on only one side, you may decide to leave it in a position that is less bothering;

The Glass is a less than spectacular heat transmitter, so it may help a little, as it could help having an heat-sink of some kind - a plate touching the LCD at/under/around the LED strip, for example... as heat-sink, a simple tape is probably not enough, and something thicker should be better.

Some people also adds little fans ( a computer fan uses the same 12 V most controller boards eat) in an effort to have an air flux to cool things.

Personally, I do not like the added noise, so I avoid them (though, for my UBiQ 2 it would be  - maybe - better to add one, maybe heat-activated)

The cursor does not follow the pen in some spots... if the pen is lost on a vertical band, it may means that there is an inductive coil in the T-Con board at the bottom of the LCD.

Try to raise (carefully! ) the board a bit away from the Intuos (as the ribbons glued to it  and the LCD are the most delicate thing and impossible to fix, getting it more than a couple of cm away - and 45º inclined on the horizontal - is going to be impossible, but that much may be more than enough) .

If you see improvements, with the board "inclined away", then it is probable that building an RF cage enclosing that board could help things.

In case I suggest to build such cage as wide as the area occupied by the vertical antenna lines (which, by the way, are what measures the horizontal  - x axis -position ), not just enough to enclose the board (which is usually quite some cm less).

(I suspect that the fact I did limit mines just to that is the reason why all my builds - that needed that cage - "fritz" at the two vertical borders... The cage acts as a torus antenna, whose field bend in a emi-sphere at the extremes, and the inclined-horizontal field lines there couples with the vertical antennas, making difficult to read the X-Axis position).

 27 
 on: June 19, 2017, 02:22:58 PM 
Started by axel9546 - Last post by axel9546
Aluminium (or copper) tape, is used most often to  try and build some RF shielding in LCD-Over-Intuos builds, more than anything else. In that use, anyway, it is often a good idea to use it to enclose some non-conductive plastic bag (or some construction akin to it).

A Ertew says, to fix things  non-conductive normal - or double sided - duct tape is better.
Hello so i just put the converter board and connect all.
The pen seem to not follow the cursor in some point, and in all the screen area is not calibrated even if i try to calibrate.
The screen gets really hot. Any ideas??
All' things work well but i have to put something like a fan to Cool the area

What this mean?

 28 
 on: June 18, 2017, 08:15:28 PM 
Started by axel9546 - Last post by DaBotz
Aluminium (or copper) tape, is used most often to  try and build some RF shielding in LCD-Over-Intuos builds, more than anything else. In that use, anyway, it is often a good idea to use it to enclose some non-conductive plastic bag (or some construction akin to it).

A Ertew says, to fix things  non-conductive normal - or double sided - duct tape is better.

 29 
 on: June 17, 2017, 07:25:38 PM 
Started by axel9546 - Last post by axel9546
Real aluminium tape may cause short circuit and destroy Wacom. I prefer to use different type of tape especially "duck tape" - plastic thing but reinforced.

Front cover have two aspects. First is base material. Glass may be fragile but 2mm layer should be enough for drawing. Plexi are elastic and may bend enough to put pressure to LCD surface but it's easier to cut. 3mm may be enough but I'm not sure. Second thing are just top layer. This layer determines scratch resistance, dirt resistance and friction for pen.
I recommend You to use glass and put protective sticker on top - to reduce pen friction. But again I have only experience based on two tablet-PC screens and few things that I try to put on top of it to cover deep scratches. Based on my experience, scratched surface of tablet screen are the best thing I can found. Bare glass and few plastic things have much higher friction than original tablet surface. So You need to test it all on Your own.
Okay
About the alluminium tape .. Which One i have to buy or wich tape is the best to take the screen hold on securely in the wacom board and get no interferenze?

 30 
 on: June 17, 2017, 06:43:47 PM 
Started by axel9546 - Last post by Ertew
Real aluminium tape may cause short circuit and destroy Wacom. I prefer to use different type of tape especially "duck tape" - plastic thing but reinforced.

Front cover have two aspects. First is base material. Glass may be fragile but 2mm layer should be enough for drawing. Plexi are elastic and may bend enough to put pressure to LCD surface but it's easier to cut. 3mm may be enough but I'm not sure. Second thing are just top layer. This layer determines scratch resistance, dirt resistance and friction for pen.
I recommend You to use glass and put protective sticker on top - to reduce pen friction. But again I have only experience based on two tablet-PC screens and few things that I try to put on top of it to cover deep scratches. Based on my experience, scratched surface of tablet screen are the best thing I can found. Bare glass and few plastic things have much higher friction than original tablet surface. So You need to test it all on Your own.

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