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 91 
 on: June 13, 2017, 12:17:37 AM 
Started by bumhee34 - Last post by DaBotz
Medium => 10"
Large => 15"
Extra large => 21.5/22"

This is a 15" (more precisely, 15.4) so it is an Intuos Large.

 92 
 on: June 12, 2017, 11:00:03 PM 
Started by axel9546 - Last post by XDjackieXD
You will need an LVDS converter board for your screen. you can find these for your screen on ebay. if you can't find one specifically for your display, you can write a message to one of the sellers with your screen part number and ask if they support it.

 93 
 on: June 12, 2017, 05:11:58 PM 
Started by axel9546 - Last post by axel9546
the active area (at least on my intuos 3) is the area that is dark gray on your image. idk what the white marks are for but they are not the hard marks where the active area ends but on the intuos pen end touch my brother got, the active area is a bit bigger than the marks but doesn't extend all the way to the edge of the tablet.
I can't really say anything about the intuos 5 but I'd guess that the active area (aka the area where the pen works) is a bit bigger than the markings but not the whole dark gray area and definitely not the (light-gray) case.

Okay Perfect  Today in gonna get a Intuos 4 large 100€ , then guys what do i need ?? The board for the LCD? Do u have some ideas Smiley ?

 94 
 on: June 12, 2017, 04:38:51 PM 
Started by bumhee34 - Last post by axel9546
Okay Perfect. I bought a used Intuos 4 large. Then what i have to do its open it Smiley

 95 
 on: June 12, 2017, 03:43:52 PM 
Started by bumhee34 - Last post by XDjackieXD
Okay Thanks! do You know If i can use a wacom Pen 2 in the Intuos 4 large and obtain 8192 level of pressure? Or o still need a different circuito board ??
Most wacom pens are not interchangeable and you will certainly not have more features by just getting the better pen.

 96 
 on: June 12, 2017, 01:02:08 PM 
Started by bumhee34 - Last post by axel9546
Kind of - however, you will have to find-build an adapter for the digitizer to be connected to a computer.

On digitizers that use a usb connection, it means finding their  pinout and soldering them to a usb-cable or a usb socket.

For the ones that use a serial connection, you'll have to find their pinout (again) and use a microcontroller with a firmware to convert the serial connection to a usb one (see the various Convert serial to usb threads for more details).

A pro of these is that they are pretty much jitter free.

Cons, they are limited in size (14.1" the biggest ones) and, actually, the electronics is a bit more difficult to pull out than connecting the screen to a controller board and lay it over a tablet.


Okay Thanks! do You know If i can use a wacom Pen 2 in the Intuos 4 large and obtain 8192 level of pressure? Or o still need a different circuito board ??

 97 
 on: June 12, 2017, 10:17:49 AM 
Started by axel9546 - Last post by XDjackieXD
the active area (at least on my intuos 3) is the area that is dark gray on your image. idk what the white marks are for but they are not the hard marks where the active area ends but on the intuos pen end touch my brother got, the active area is a bit bigger than the marks but doesn't extend all the way to the edge of the tablet.
I can't really say anything about the intuos 5 but I'd guess that the active area (aka the area where the pen works) is a bit bigger than the markings but not the whole dark gray area and definitely not the (light-gray) case.

 98 
 on: June 12, 2017, 06:50:29 AM 
Started by axel9546 - Last post by axel9546
so i can buy a Intuos 5 medium and fit my 15.6 screen??
This is what i mean Smiley
Ofc i have to remove plastic

 99 
 on: June 11, 2017, 11:58:33 PM 
Started by ThinWhiteDuke - Last post by ThinWhiteDuke
My DIY Cintiq was a long time in the making. Mostly due to other things got in the way of me making it and the fact that my LCD controller board blew up. Smoke coming from your electronics is always fun.

Anyways, I used this guide (http://forum.bongofish.co.uk/index.php?topic=2378.0) to make my own. After my controller mishap though I decided to buy one of the infinitely cheaper LCD controllers that can be found on ebay/banggood/aliexpress etc. shown here: https://www.banggood.com/V29-Universal-LCD-Controller-Board-TV-Motherboard-Free-Program-Version-p-975862.html?rmmds=search There are a few different types, theres the v29 that comes is programmable via onboard jumpers, v29 where you use a USB with the correct image to flash the board, and v56 that's essentially the same as the second one but you can use the USB port for other things like watching movies I think. I went with the first board. It costs a little more but I didn't have to deal with any potential headaches regarding finding the right image to flash. These boards are also better than the NJYTouch boards in that, they cost less, can be reprogrammed yourself without the need for a specialized programming board and have a lot more port choices. So you can use your LCD screen for more than only just the PC if you wanted.

I got a 5 button keypad with the prior board. It however didn't work with the v29 board (it can, potentially, but you need to be able to access the service menu and that's only possible with the remote as far as I know) so I had to buy a 7 button keypad (which came wired with an IR sensor. The 7 Button keypad doesn't really seem to work very well (I think the pin out may be incorrect on the pad itself). But hey, it's got the IR sensor, so I use that to access any of the options I need to get to. (https://www.banggood.com/Universal-7-Keys-V29-V59-TV-Switch-Keypad-Board-With-Interface-p-955688.html?rmmds=search)

My main issue when I received the v29 board and hooked it up to the LCD was that it showed inverted colors, my screen looked like a rainbow threw up on it. I thought I had been sent a bum controller. But it turns out, after some help from the people who sold it to me, that there's an option in the service menu that allows for different color profiles. A simple switch of these and the monitor was good to go.

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Wrong colors.

Per their instructions:
Please to solve the problem by followed steps:

Operate with remote control:
1.Pressing the menu till menu appear on the screen,
2 Press the number key 8896 then display a menu
3 Select SYSTEM SETTING to enter
4 Select Panel Setting 1 2 3 4 .. After normal, press the Escape key.
(Note that the code for entering the system menu on the other boards is different, but I believe the procedure is the same.)

Now I only bought an LCD screen. I didn't have the original case or anything like that... and either way it'd be impossible to fit the new controller board in
there. The biggest challenge was trying to figure out how to orient all of these cables. So that it all fit and worked in the smallest possible form factor. This coupled with the orientation of and where cables entered some of the boards made this maddening.

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Cable Routing

My case went under several iterations. First it was made out of MDF board, I didn't like it, it was ugly and too heavy. I then moved from that to the foam board that you can get at a craftstore, the kind with the paper on the top and back. I coated these with Polyurethane Resin. It worked ok but it was difficult to shape edges. Over time I came across some ways that industrial designers and prop makers make one-offs using sturdy foam insulation from the hardware store. It's commonly known as "Blue" or "Pink" foam depending on which store you get it at and what the brand is. They're supposed to be about the same just different companies. I went for blue stuff since I felt it would be easier to visualize with than the pink color. Here the blue stuff is soldd by Dow. And has huge letters to that effect. And the pink is sold by Corning, I think. There was also a tab where the LCD and Wacom board screwed into, snipped it and turned the metal tab back on itself to make fitting the bezels easier.

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It didn't hurt anything thankfully.

The foam is a joy to work with. It's easy to cut with an xacto knife and multiple passes and sands well (though large expanses can be difficult to sand and cause a ton of dust, wear a mask) It doesn't take drilling very well though, so making holes can be an annoyance. To get the orientation of the keypad holes to their approximate points on the foam I took an impression of them with clay then pin-pricked through the clay to mark their positions on the foam. I found a flat surface and turned the drill bit around to the ... non-drilling side and just used manual hand compression to make holes. It worked better than using the drill side but still not great unfortunately. I also had to carve out spaces for places with problem cables or parts that stuck out in the way.

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Carving

I traced the controller board onto the foam and cut a rectangle out where the board would sit. I flipped the inverter onto the top of the LCD controller so that they fit in tandem with each other. The inverter and the back panel of the red wacom board are both covered with brown paper/aluminium foil/brown paper sandwiched together in the hopes of keeping interference to a minimum (as my prior build with my prior lcd controller went dead wherever the inverter was, the sandwiched aluminum helped a ton).

I hotglued the top and sides of the foam around the inverter and lcd controller making a little box. I tried screwing it into the lower piece of foam, but the foam didn't take being screwed. The boards themselves aren't secured, they're held in my the pressure of the box and the fact that they're attached to stuff.

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It looks smooth and nicer now that it's done, but it was simply glued pieces of foam.


After all the base foam work was done, I did the rounding of edges with a drill press and some router bits and some sand paper. You could just use sandpaper though. And was finally coated with spackle that was sanded down. The spackle acts both a hole filler for a the pourous foam and as a barrier for the spray paint that would come next. Spray paint contains things that could melt the foam, so the barrier is needed. Though the places where I oversprayed remained fine.

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Spackled and Painted

The bezels are made of wood that I made via a tablesaw. They're basically just shallow L shapes that can be screwed into from the back of the foam to hold the whole thing together. As I said the foam wouldn't take screwing so the wood has the grip to hold it all together.

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Done (Now if only I didn't need to plug in 3 separate wires)
 Cheesy

I don't know if anyone else has made a monitor out of foam, but I wanted to give back to the community with this write up, especially for those who don't have a case handy. I wanted something somewhat portable, I didn't want to have to be stuck at a desk with it if I don't have to. It's not the most portable thing in the world but it's nice not to have to have it mounted or have the parts hanging out for all to see. So I wanted to throw this up as a bit of a proof of concept.

Had I to do it over again:

-Find some magical way of making good holes on the foam for the buttons

-I probably wouldn't have spackled it, spackle is heavy (even the little bit I used) and I feel like the LCD is considerably more heavy than it was with just bare foam. It feels more rugged, but it's still susceptible to pokes marring it just like the foam was.

-Coat it with gesso or PVA glue to seal it instead of spackle then spray paint over that. It'd probly keep the weight down.

-Be more careful! I cut one side too near the screw hole and I sanded some parts of the back more shallow than the rest of it, so its a bit uneven. Same with the spackling job, it's uneven, but I didn't feel like caking it on since it's heavy stuff and I just didn't care anymore. Anyone who is invested in making it look really good though, could. For me functional is fine, it's a tool.

-Getting the Mini USB into the Teensy is annoying, I'll be adding a Mini USB extension that will just always remain in it, that way I can just plug into that.

-Round the bezels or not round the bezels, that is the question, I opted not to... for now.

-The screen exhibited some slightly wavy lines intermittenly when plugged into VGA, this didn't actually effect the pen strokes themselves however. Plugging into HDMI I haven't seen these wavy lines come back as of yet.

-Find somewhere to put that stupid inverter wire.

Shout outs:

A gent here from the community helped me way back when I started with my complete lack of soldering skills by essentially gifting me a Teensy in exchange for the one I couldn't get to work. In my pitiful soldering attempts I screwed the thing up so he was left with nothing. He knows who he is, and I'm still grateful to him. So my offer of buying him a new teensy should he need one still stands.

I caught up with thatcomicsguy who wrote the original Tecra M4 build when I was trying to get things to work. He tried to help out as well, I thank him too for his kindness and his wonderful write up. Without the two of you making my monitor would've have been possible.

 100 
 on: June 11, 2017, 11:55:55 PM 
Started by axel9546 - Last post by XDjackieXD
so this mean only Active area Will work with the Pen or i could have the possibility to get work the full Black area?
Your pen will work everywhere it did work without the screen in between.

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