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 91 
 on: August 05, 2017, 11:12:30 PM 
Started by PsychoNerd91 - Last post by Ertew
Hello.

As I found after very short research, base models of M700, M750 and M780 have the same or very similar screens - LCD + Wacom EMR digitizer + resistive single-touch. Probably M700 have CCFL backlight while M780 have LED backlight.
I talk about base models, 1280 x 800 px. M750 have hi-res screens as option, 1400 x 1050 px. If that screen have LED backlight, You should look for it. As I figured 1280 x 800px have very limited compatibility - some video cards autodetect this resolution, most not but I can force specific resolution, few doesn't accept and cannot force specific resolution. That's sad.


Back to topic. LCD (glass + drivers), LCD backlight, EMR digitizer and touch digitizer are separate devices. You need special adapter for each.
1. This TabletPC is relatively old. I assume that LCD gave LVDS interface. You need to use VGA->LVDS or HDMI->LVDS converter to connect LCD to PC. I mean active converter + special cable between converter and LCD. You can buy universal converter with wide range of supported resolution (select via jumpers or upload via USB stick) or specialized converter (programmed by seller). You cannot make connector for LCD panel. You can easily buy special cable (price may vary depend on type of connector) or buy LCD with cable, cut motherboard connector and make DIY wiring.
2. CCFL backlight have separated driver, always hidden near LCD module. You need to find pinout for that module and connect it. LED backlight have independent circuit located at the same circuit board as rest of LCD things. It use the same connector too, just have separate pins. Pinout are available at LCD datasheet. BTW, LCD is useless without datasheet or at least pinout.
3. There are tree types of EMR digitizers.
You can found one with USB interface - add 3V3 voltage regulator and proper USB connector, that's all.
You can also found one with RS232 interface - add RS232 to RS232-TTL and digitizer will be usable on Linux or WinXP, or add WasBee converter and digitizer will be available on Linux, modern win (probably Mac too).
Last type have unknown interface between EMR digitizer and touch digitizer but known interface between one of them and motherboard - usually USB but sometimes RS232. So don't worry. WaxBee doesn't cost fortune and playing with these things are worth.
4. Portege series use single touch resistive panel - can be used with any tool that aren't too sharp to scratch it. That panel are made of solid back plane, air gap and thin foil on top.
As You wrote, You don't need that part so You can safety disconnect panel from dedicated hardware, maybe remove some parts inside. Really no issues here.
But I have to say something about that touch panel itself. IMHO drawing over resistive touchscreen wasn't the best option. I recommend You to replace touch panel with layer of glass/plastic or chose different tablet to play with it. But that's my opinion based on regular resistive touch devices. Maybe that screen have special durable version, who knows.

 92 
 on: August 05, 2017, 08:36:50 PM 
Started by jedikalimero - Last post by XDjackieXD
could you take some high-res photos of the insides? that would make debugging a bit easier.

 93 
 on: August 04, 2017, 07:55:07 PM 
Started by jedikalimero - Last post by jedikalimero
I have a second generation Cintiq 21UX DTK-2100 and recently in a very unfortunate accident it fell to the floor being hit in the lower left corner. Yhe plastic case in that corner broke in pieces but the LCD is still intact and working correctly. The Wacom driver still detects the Cintiq and all the ExpressKeys and ExpressSliders work but it doesn't react at all when I touch the screen with the stylus. (I have tried with several styluses, Grip Pen, Airbrush, Art Pen, Grip Pen Pro, Classic Pen but no way. All of them working in Intuos Pro, 5 and 4, of course).

So I think the problem is located at the tablet driver board (identified as PWB-B034D) that is still partially working since the device itself is detected and all the keys and sliders work. Or either in the sheet under the LCD that makes the EM matrix, but this is less likely since it is just a sheet of printed circuit matrix without any components on it.

I guess Wacom would charge me more than the cost of a fully working second hand 21UX for the motherboard so any suggestions?
The Motherboard has LOTS of test points but I don't know how to test it since I haven't found any information about it.

 94 
 on: August 03, 2017, 10:09:09 AM 
Started by PsychoNerd91 - Last post by PsychoNerd91
So, this has been on my mind forever (well, since getting the laptop anyway.)
If I knew of this forum, I would have done it sooner.

So the idea is just to use the screen as a second (*cough* third *cough*) monitor for my desktop.
The laptop itself is perfectly fine, but under powered for the software I'd like to use (photoshop, paint tool sai, streaming software).
I'd like to have the function, but have my desktop handle the grunt of the work.
I'd still like to use the laptop as well, I just don't need the touchscreen function on it.

Anyway. To the actual question.
What difficulties should I expect when starting this project?
What hardware might I need to buy? Is there specific hardware for the digitizer?
I've read this post which mentions Portege, but not the M780 specifically. Is the hardware comparable?
Will I need to code anything? If so, what? Or is it all handled by the hardware?
What's a comparable screen for the laptop?

I'm sorry, I know these questions have probably been answered before.
It's always daunting about starting anything where I don't know where to begin.

Any help will be appreciated. Thank you for making this forum exist!

 95 
 on: August 03, 2017, 09:25:22 AM 
Started by Switz - Last post by PsychoNerd91
Time to make or break my project. Here's where I start I guess.

 96 
 on: August 01, 2017, 09:41:36 PM 
Started by thatcomicsguy - Last post by Ertew
WaxBee? Sadly no. WaxBee is designed as one way converter: RS232 or ADB as input, USB as output. This tabletPC is relatively modern and I'm sure that digitizer have USB interface (probably single USB for both EMR and capacitive touch), nothing else. You may chose uC with two USB interfaces, one host (or OTG) and one device (or OTG). This uC will receive USB packets and translate it.

Second solution: I'm sure that Linux still can use legacy Wacom drivers and handle this digitizer as regular tablet with full options available.

Third solution: maybe this digitizer can detect pen ID? If yes, there might be possibility to use different pens with different button assignment.
https://www.phonearena.com/news/Note-the-progress-the-evolution-of-the-Samsung-S-Pen-from-the-original-phablet-to-the-Note-7_id83943

And last option: users feedback. Few hundreds of user comments and samsung may notice the problem.

 97 
 on: August 01, 2017, 01:01:28 AM 
Started by thatcomicsguy - Last post by thatcomicsguy
Hey, guys!

It's been a while since I posted anything here.

I have a question:

Samsung has released a new 15.6" convertible "Flip" laptop with their Wacom-powered "S-Pen".  The Notebook 9 Pro.



It's a total revolution in Tablet PC tech; the biggest portable computer (other than Wacom's keyboardless Cintiq tablet) to date which also uses the best in EMR pen technology, (the common alternative N-Trig and AES systems.., almost don't suck.  Buuuuut, they suck).

The only problem is...

The Samsung Pen Driver is currently the only way to interact with the stylus.  And it won't let the user do anything useful with the stylus barrel button other than bring up a chumpy Samsung menu.  No hover-click.  No brush re-sizing.  Just "One Note?"

I haven't gotten one of these machines as of yet, (they're not available in Canada), but I was getting all excited about the prospect until I learned that the system is, in spite of its amazing stylus action, high pressure levels and even tilt sensitivity, suffering from this critical feature fail.

So.., what would be involved in hacking together a home brew pen driver?  The Waxbee project is evidence enough that something must be possible.

For background on the machine, you can read the thread over on the TabletPC forum here:

http://forum.tabletpcreview.com/threads/samsung-notebook-9-13-and-15-flippers-with-windows-10-and-spen.72302/page-17

Cheers!

 98 
 on: July 31, 2017, 04:29:03 PM 
Started by hames - Last post by DaBotz
I would counsel going with the 27...

Builds with screen much bigger than the tablet active area (on all sides) tend to be remarkably jitter-free, as the T-Con board and the discontinuity added by the LCD borders can be kept out of the way.

http://forum.bongofish.co.uk/index.php?topic=2218.0 (this uses an Intuos 4)

http://forum.bongofish.co.uk/index.php?topic=2458.0 (this uses an Intuos 2)

On the other hand, as Ertew notes, the best cover for a 40" 4k is using the two digitizer placed verticals, with a "respect band" between their active areas (even in the best case scenario, you can't go below the width of one "digitizer border" of distance between the two, by overlapping a pcb to the other, with in the middle a grounded metal strip to intercept the mutual interferences; in the worse case, the "side band" interferences are strong enough that not only no overlap of the PCBs is possible, but rather the boards must be kept completely separated).

In this configuration, the screen is only slightly taller than the boards active areas ( by half an inch), which means that the T-Con board would lay directly above some the digitizer antennas, who would pick up its em fields (and RF-Cage would be needed almost for sure) and -thus - add jitter.

The "dead area" in the middle is not avoidable, and means that one must chose one of the two sides as "drawing area", and leave the other for palettes and auxiliary windows.

Now, I use two builds in a similar way -  a slightly jittery 21.5" as main drawing board, and a pretty precise 9.7" on its right side as palette screen.

The two screens are separated by about 6 cm of distance  (2,5") -  and it is already a bit of a bother.

More importantly, even if I sometimes desire to place them together in a single case, the truth is that I still rather have the small one able to be tilt in my direction, and so reduce perspective aberration and parallax when my head is above the drawing screen, rather than a more elegant, flusher (but, actually, less functional) solution.

- Truth is, it already is a bit distant from my drawing station as it is.

In a 40" with digitizers as near as possible, the situation would be similar but there also would be no way to tilt half of the screen in the user's direction.    

As for placing the two digitizers near the LCD borders, with only one big "dead area" in centre...

if 2" are already a bother, 10" would be unbearable.

In conclusion, while the 40" would look amazing, I am not sure that drawing on it would be all that fun.

Note: edited for slight orthography and language fixes.

 99 
 on: July 30, 2017, 07:22:44 PM 
Started by hames - Last post by Ertew
First, chose slim display. Second, chose single tablet.

1. Chose thin display with backlight hidden on the edges - standard for tablets and smaller screens.
There are also thick displays with light source are hidden on the back of LCD. Some of these models have "local dimming" - backlight are divided into sestions and controlled independently. That type of backlight makes display impossible to modify because thickness of backlight module.

2. You cannot connect two tablets to make one bigger. You can place two tablets close but there bust be small gap between. If no, interferences between tablets will occurs.
If You want to draw on half of display and have images, toolbars, settings, etc on second half - OK. If You want to draw in the middle - forget about it.

 100 
 on: July 28, 2017, 11:38:50 AM 
Started by hames - Last post by Aerendraca
Things are a little slow on the forum these days, so bare with us.

I've ticked the 40" 4K option mostly for selfish reasons; I want to see it done. There may be factors that mean that you might not be able to do either though, I'll explain a bit later.

The only other person that has tackled a bigger build is DaBotz, who is still active on the forum - possibly more so than most actually. The one thing I would say though is that I think a large 4K might be a pioneering step for the DIY Cintiq community, so expect the unexpected and we will try and give advice where we can. Also, expect to break things. At the level that these screens get stripped back to things get fragile.

Whether or not you can use a screen for a build depends mostly on how the screen was manufactured. If the screen panel has important wires that run across the back of it (which cannot be extended), that's game over from the off. Other factors include the mysterious jitters, this is where the screen circuitry interferes with the tablet and causes the mouse cursor to bounce around and sometimes randomly click. Some screens are worse than others, there are no lists of which work and which don't (there's too many and the community is too small), so you undertake the project at some risk. That said, you can get a good idea of how good things are likely to be by stripping the panel back and placing it on the tablet directly - you are likely to see some jitters since there will be little to no shielding, but with any luck the movement will be small and with no random clicks. Following on from this, the thickness of the panel with the backlight may simply be too large for the tablet signal to penetrate, testing at this stage will let you know (but don't forget to include a protective layer over the panel in your calculations). From memory I think there is about 10 - 14mm depending on the tablet.

Oh, the other thing about the screen panel is that you have to remove any metal backing that might be present; for some screens this is straight forward, for others not so much. Any metal behind the screen blocks the radio signals from the tablet in that region, simple as that.

I'm sure you're probably getting the idea at this point that you will need to be a patient person with some decent experience of building stuff. Don't let any of this put you off, go for it and good luck!

 

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