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 91 
 on: May 09, 2017, 10:47:24 PM 
Started by CableMender - Last post by CableMender
"4pin CCTV power"

Thanks for the tip! These look really close, but most of the cables I'm finding associated with CCTV power have a square pin layout rather than the staggered pins the Cintiq expects, and the point-of-sale connectors that look staggered are seemingly impossible to buy as a female connector. I took my chances with a "Philmore EL5" connector end (apparently a type of DIN?) that should get here fast, but even with the correct pin layout I fully expect the dimensions will be all wrong:



I suspect there is a more specific connector designation that Wacom used in these Cintiqs...

 92 
 on: May 09, 2017, 09:58:16 PM 
Started by DaBotz - Last post by DaBotz
As a side note, things to consider whether using or not the Intuos 2 case:

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On top is the UBiQ2, below is the original Intuos 2 case.



Consider that, in building the UBiQ I added 14 mm ( 1/2 inch) on both width and length, simply because I wanted to add some threaded bolts so that it was possible to encase it in a light table, should I ever build another one.

In other words, a plywood-made case is at worst as big as the Intuos 2 case, or smaller... and it took an hour to mount and glue it.

Modding the Intuos case for the UBiQ 3 required some four days... and it does not feel anywhere near as sturdy.

 93 
 on: May 09, 2017, 09:50:12 PM 
Started by Ertew - Last post by Ertew
<censored /> yeah! I finally got microUSB plug. Attached it to Pro Micro and everything working well. So, back to durable USB socket reinforced with plywood.
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Let's finish this project (and start another).
All pieces on back of my screen. Removed white connector from LCD/LVDS cable. Added small prototype PCB for buttons and LEDs. Board for digitizer glued to the plywood.
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Pro micro stick behind USB connector. All pieces connected. Extra space will be utilized by potentiometer (attached to one of ADC inputs) as soon as I discover how to recompile WaxBee firmware with adding extra piece of code (the idea: analog -> PWM -> backlight dimming).
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And ZOOM view.
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Because I have spare output from digitizer (high when detect pen) and doesn't have any driver for NUM/Caps/Scroll/Lock LEDs I decided to wire them together  Grin
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Everything tested and working OK. No jitter, as expected. Only small hysteresis, something about 1px.
Screen resolution: 1280 x 800px. Digitizer resolution between 1 and 2 points per pixel.

And that's all. Final photos will be posted at first post of this topic. Any comments are welcome.

 94 
 on: May 09, 2017, 09:28:27 PM 
Started by CableMender - Last post by Ertew
Look for "4pin CCTV power", you will found that very similar plugs are used for powering analog CCTV cameras. Some links below.

https://picclick.com/4-Pin-AC-Adapter-For-Posiflex-EA1050A-120-DC-Charger-351418096116.html
http://www.securitycamera2000.com/products/4pin-Aviation-Plug-to-Power-Video-and-Audio-RCA-Female-Plugs-Cable.html
http://www.backupcameracable.com/sale-8161531-orlaco-4-pin-din-connector-female-to-male-for-vehicle-cctv-camera.html
https://www.e-epos.com/cctv/psu/4pin-psu-assembly.html

 95 
 on: May 09, 2017, 09:18:31 PM 
Started by Aerendraca - Last post by DaBotz
1. Almost no jitters
2. 1.1 ( 2 along at the top and lower borders, near the CCFL lamps)
3. Intuos2 12x12 (XD-1212-U)
4. HP LE2201w - Panel: Samsung LTM220MT05
5. 1680x1050 (1680x1050)
6. No (not even tried)
7. Note: the screen was already used with a 12x18 Intuos 2 (see entry above), and produced some more jitter with that, as the digitizer intercepted noise from its whole area (and its whole TCON-board length).
Jitter is about one pixel, pretty "slow" in frequency, in almost all the available tablet space, with no false clics.
The last cm near the upper lamp, jitter is more appreciable... but there are seldom useful GUI elements there anyway.
8. Yes, if one do not mind having 3 inches of unreachable screen on both sides, it still gives about 16,5" of drawing area in its middle ( 0r, 1070 x 1050 pixels)  .

 96 
 on: May 09, 2017, 08:52:19 PM 
Started by DaBotz - Last post by DaBotz
Update on the old big monster...

After having shoved a Intuos 2 12x12 inside, I did not use it much as a tablet, as I made the mistake of letting the tablet all on one side (as not to carve more the panel that holds it in the "subassembly" ).

However, these last few days I could not bear its black mass  any more (which was among the reasons why I decided to try with the LG 20MP48, when I got another Intuos 2 extralarge... also, I wanted an IPS led), so I decided to overhaul it a bit.

I planned changing its "front plate" to a yellow one (yes, it's cardboard... so, it is not a big work to do) and, as I was opening it, cleaning up a bit things ( I added some threaded holes in the back, last time I modified it, and let the wood dust go around) and centering both the screen, and the tablet behind it, around the middle line of the case (before, I left an offset to the right of a cm or so, so that I could leave  numeric pad on the left side).

I verified that, without the noise produced by the screen borders (or, maybe, by the bending of the EM field around the ends of the TCon board RF cage) , the jitter is down yet a notch and is on par with that that affects its successor's centre.

I do not know how I am going to use it, as its bulk is still a bit in the way ( though it is far less depressing, now that it is not a black slab any more)  of a use as a second Cintiq (or, ahem, 3rd cintiq, in my case) , but I wanted to report it.

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 97 
 on: May 09, 2017, 07:16:04 PM 
Started by DaBotz - Last post by DaBotz
I added my habitual common mode chokes on the USB and power cables, and moved the thing to its final location/computer.

This has usefully reduced a bit the false clicks on the 2nd button (now they are just some, and only on the lower right border of the screen).

A "smart" repartition of GUI elements (i.e. on the right, I left only things that are "click and choose"... anything that needs move sliders would require far better precision) made it pretty usable.

As a final touch, I placed a 3mm thick glass, with margins spray-painted in black, on top of it.


As it is...
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A drawing done with it.
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Note: setting the refresh rate at 75hz improved things yet a bit.


 98 
 on: May 09, 2017, 01:12:49 AM 
Started by CableMender - Last post by CableMender
Hi, Bongofish forum! I'm here at this repository of Wacom hacking knowledge because I've just purchased a Cintiq 21UX DTK-2100 for the shockingly low price of ~$75 USD. There's just one little problem with it - some absolute animal decided unplugging it was took much work!



I have a bit of an electronics workshop shaping up, so this looked like equal parts tragedy and challenge. Once the Cintiq arrives later this week and I get a look inside, I figure I might have a shot at resurrecting this old girl, though I'm anticipating plenty of hurdles in my path. The first presented itself today: I received a third-party power supply that is allegedly compatible with this exact model (~$15), but I've never seen anything like the round 4-pin connector that is expecting to interface with the Cintiq:



Better pictures can be provided, but anyone familiar with these older Cintiqs probably wouldn't need them. So, what the heck is this? It's not an S-video connector, not a PS/2 connector, not a DIN connector, not even an Apple Desktop Bus connector. The closest thing I've found is a kind of connector for powering LED light strips, but even though this has the correct ratios with the "top" pins spaced closer than the other two, the dimensions are all wrong - 4.6mm between the top pins when the connector in my hand is closer to 3.0mm center-to-center, 5.4mm between the bottom when I measure more like 4.5mm, pins 1.5mm in diameter when mine look more like 1.0mm:



I'll chop this power supply apart if I really have to, but I would infinitely prefer to find a proper plug for it. So did Wacom really engineer these older Cintiqs with proprietary, unbuyable power connectors, or have I just not stumbled upon the correct round 4-pin socket type?  Huh

 99 
 on: May 09, 2017, 12:35:38 AM 
Started by Switz - Last post by CableMender
Hi! I just managed to get a Cintiq 21UX from eBay for a very nice price, but with one little caveat - the entire cable has been sliced off! This might be the most knowledgeable collection of Wacom hackers on the Internet, so I'm hoping some will be able to provide me with pinouts and other assistance as I stumble through trying to resurrect this thing.

 100 
 on: May 07, 2017, 10:06:01 AM 
Started by Forestfrog - Last post by DaBotz
The important part is being able to draw... if fiddling with the Ribbtiq and then comparing it, the 21UX and the UGee got you to find a way to use the latter to better results, I think that it is just right

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