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 on: November 07, 2016, 07:33:38 PM 
Started by DaBotz - Last post by DaBotz
War: Is there a specific website or software that allows you too do all these cool photoshop pics.
What level of pc skills do you need to do this?
Pretty cool.....

I did these with, simply, Photoshop Elements and nothing more.

However, if you compare these with more recent works http://forum.bongofish.co.uk/index.php?topic=2480, the inking is quite rough.

On one side, Photoshop (and its offshoots) is the WRONG software to draw lines, as it lacks a feature called "Stroke stabilization".

I think that at this time I was already using "Lazy Nezumi", which is a 3rd party stroke stabilizer for Windows, in its old, shareware version (today, the author charges quite a bit for the "modern version" of it; however, I would use it even if I had a Wacom Cintiq 27 QHD, and not the jittery thingy that replaced the Cabinetiq.

If you have a program with stroke stabilization, like Manga Studio ( 40 $ ) or GIMP (open source, works best in Linux, though) you may do without LNP.

I like to have it because I have hooked it up using a Macros program, so I have two keys in a wireless numeric pad to raise or lower the level of stabilization.

Also, LNP allows to "draw" the curve response of the pen (like the Linux driver) and compensate for the "horrible" curve of the Wacom pen.  

(By the way, The Linux driver also has an internal "stabilization" feature, called rawsample, that uses a moving window to average and filter out the pen noise, so, when I was using Linux, I could likewise raise or lower the stabilization with two keys, thriough a macroi program and a couple of shell scripts ).

I use a Macro programs that distinguishes between different keyboards (and mouses) called HIDMacros (Shareware), which allows me to use different numeric pads as they were different programmable keypads.

As a result, on my current Intuos 2 - based machine (no hotkeys on the Wacom tablet) I use two numeric pads and a keyboard, for a total of about a hundred hot-keys (to be honest, the limit is pretty much how many keys I manage to remember, not an issue of the program), using stickers to mark the effective use of each key.  

"What level of pc skills do you need to do this?"

I would say "not very much", after all it is just getting some programs and invest a bit of time in "tuning" things.

But lately, some friends made me notice that my idea of "nice, simple and easy" isn't exactly shared by the rest of the world.

 on: November 07, 2016, 03:13:59 PM 
Started by LTN121t - Last post by Aerendraca
The enable output from the MT6820-B is 5V, I believe the LED driver board requires an enable of 3V maximum. It worked well for a short while until it failed causing 10x more current to pass through the resistor and burn it out. I measured a max of 120mA going through the 100Ohm resistor before I realized that the ME15N10 FET had failed. I'm not completely sure what happened to the ME15N10 transistor as it should've been able to handle +/- 20V at the gate, however it did indeed fail.

The reason I suspect I originally used the IRL540N and inverter tester was so that I had a better control of the enable and dim voltages in case of compatibilty issues. It is still true that the IRL540N was a bit redundant, as the enable switch as I could have utilized the variable resistors on the inverter tester board to adjust the enable voltage. This would have meant hacking the inverter tester a little, which at the time seemed a pain in the backside, so I opted to use the HEXFET to control enabling the inveter tester instead.

Obviously now, hacking the inverter tester seems trivial compared to the problems I caused myself. Doh!


Make sure your parts are compatible; The screen I have was originally CCFL and I converted it using a kit from China - I should have checked the board over properly.

Alternatively, make sure you know what voltages are expected at the LED Driver/CCFL inverter end before you go ahead and plug it in to your LVDS controller; you shouldn't need to worry about this if you purchased the LVDS controller and Inverter/Driver as a kit, the seller will have already matched them.

Here's the modification made to get the board running again - Guess who's back!
[ Attachment: You are not allowed to view attachments ]

I will need to remove the ME15N10 properly and try and mount the resistor a little better, but it's all working fine now, and the IRL540N requires


This worked OK for a bit until the Vcc pin of the LED driver chip came off. Nevermind, I'll just have to order another and learn from my mistakes.

Also, Ertews method is still sound, it's just that you need to make sure that you do not over-volt the driver/inverter somehow before proceeding.

 on: November 07, 2016, 08:57:06 AM 
Started by DaBotz - Last post by Jasonneinc
War: Is there a specific website or software that allows you too do all these cool photoshop pics.
What level of pc skills do you need to do this?
Pretty cool.....

 on: November 06, 2016, 05:50:19 PM 
Started by DaBotz - Last post by DaBotz
I do have an addiction... there are currently, on sale in ebay, an XD-1218-r (in Germany)  and a Philips 21.5" USB monitor (in Spain, no less! USB powered and controlled, LED but no IPS... temptation nonetheless) , and  it needed a considerable effort on my part not to buy both (and a teensy) to start building a USB only, re-firmware-able 21.5" machine...  

But, logically, from where I stand now, the only way to improve is going for the real thing (The 27" QHD) or make another 40" 4K (thewoodguy docet).

As a horrible side note, I brought back to life the Cabinetiq and, no... I do not like at all the feeling and the pressure response of the Intuos 4 grip pen.  

For me, those 2048 pressure levels are not worth the Intuos 2's 1024 ( or the 2048 of the Huion H610... a pity I didn't manage to Cintiqize that, but it lead me to "discover" the Intuos 2 and to my current line-up).

For the moment, my Simtiq days should be over.... simply because the stuff I have now works well enough for me.

My thanks to all the bongofishers - I couldn't have done these without you.

The Magnificent Three (Cintiqs)  and their environment.

[ Attachment: You are not allowed to view attachments ]

 on: November 04, 2016, 10:44:12 AM 
Started by LTN121t - Last post by Aerendraca
Hmmmm........ OK, so this could just be coincidence however, today the LED backlight current board burnt out with a huge stink of smoke.  Cry

I suspect that the board - which was from China and very cheap - is at fault rather than the rewiring discussed previously, however I will look into this a bit more and make sure that nothing else got taken out during the event.

Here a pic of the burnt out resistor:

[ Attachment: You are not allowed to view attachments ]

Originally this was an SMD resistor of the same value (of which I forget now), however the original resistor cracked in half when I attempted to pull the board from some double-sided tape. Obviously too much current has passed through the resistor but as yet I have no idea why. I'm not even sure if the LEDs are still working.


 on: November 03, 2016, 02:32:14 PM 
Started by LTN121t - Last post by Aerendraca
Spot the difference. I'll give you a clue:
[ Attachment: You are not allowed to view attachments ]

The inverter tested has been stripped virtually bare so just the connector, a resistor, and an LED are present. This was so that I could fully disconnect the backlight if I needed to strip the screen down again. Using the connector on the LVDS controller wouldn't allow this due to being connected to 5V power.

Tested and working, check out the refresh rate and resolution of this bad boy! - ahh, and there's the homeless little HEXFET sitting on the bezel:
[ Attachment: You are not allowed to view attachments ]

I left the resistor on the protoboard connected to nothing as I have thousands of them.

2 less components and the OSD now controls brightness.

 on: November 03, 2016, 09:30:12 AM 
Started by LTN121t - Last post by Aerendraca
Haha... Cheesy

Actually that's a very fair point. I did this a few months ago now so I don't remember my reasoning, but I imagine it was just a matter of not seeing the wood for the trees. You're perfectly right that both the resistor and HEXFET aren't really needed. I probably just had the parts laying around and didn't think too much about it, or possibly had intentions to use the BL signal to do something else.

Ertew, thanks. I think I'm going to rewire my setup as per your suggestion since it has the advantage of allowing the backlight to be controlled from the OSD. Nice!

There's an outcome that I hadn't expected when I posted yesterday!

Cheers.  Wink

 on: November 02, 2016, 09:21:02 PM 
Started by LTN121t - Last post by Ertew
You hacked a nice screen.
But why You have chosen this strange way? IMO You can throw away IRL540N MOSFET and connect everything like i described bellow:

1. Connect all grounds together.
2. Connect +12V to input of LM2596 DC/DC module and to input of CCFL inverter. (in typical notebook, CCFL inverter is hooked directly to battery or power input)
3. 5V output from DC/DC to LVDS converter.
4. CCFL inverter can be turned on and off via enable pin (often named EN, ON, POW, BL) - connect it to BL output at LVDS converter.
5. Last thing, brightness. It can be connected to 5V, 0V, pot (as You have on Bl tester) or to brightness (ADJ) output on LVDS converter (if supported by firmware).

 on: November 02, 2016, 04:20:15 PM 
Started by LTN121t - Last post by Aerendraca
What controller board and screen are you using? Do you have pictures? You can upload them in the 'Additional Options' when you reply.

 on: November 02, 2016, 04:18:32 PM 
Started by ThrowingChicken - Last post by Aerendraca
True it would be a bit fiddly, but it's do-able.

Interesting board by the way, I've not seen that one kicking around before.

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