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 91 
 on: January 04, 2017, 05:49:36 PM 
Started by Sliver - Last post by Pesho
It's rather small, you need to look for ones that match the size and dimensions of existing LCD screens.

 92 
 on: January 03, 2017, 03:54:46 PM 
Started by Sliver - Last post by Sliver
Hi, i'm new to this forum.
So i have been strolled here for a week and it seem like no one have used this wacom before.
Is this thing  suitable or not?

 93 
 on: December 21, 2016, 01:07:25 PM 
Started by sinusoid - Last post by beanhead
I don't see why not - worst case is you'll have to transfer the digitizer from your old screen onto the new one. They're just stuck on the back with some adhesive, it's not a big deal. You don't even need to stick them on super accurately either, as running a calibration should compensate for any slight offsets. You can even stick it onto a screen without a digitizer if it's cheaper, though nowadays the price is usually the same with or without one. As for the LED strip, they're often a size and arrangement specific to the panel, you can search eBay for a suitable replacement.

Ok, understood. Thank you so much for the help!

 94 
 on: December 20, 2016, 09:36:31 PM 
Started by sinusoid - Last post by Pesho
Thank you so much for the link- do you know if I would be able to exchange the screen with any of those other ones and still keep the digitizer and drawing capabilities intact? I use this for all of my art so I really need to keep its drawing ability, and I'm not sure if the digitizer is a separate piece or somehow bound to the screen itself. Also, would I need any kind of specific LED strip to just replace that, or could I find that more easily? I'm sorry if these are obvious questions or anything, I don't know much about screens. I've figured that it is probably a light problem because I have a vertical band on the screen with color distortion and flickering and heat at the bottom, but every computer specialist I've been to has been unwilling to help or open the screen to check this. I was wondering if I could simply replace the LED strip which would be obviously ideal.

I don't see why not - worst case is you'll have to transfer the digitizer from your old screen onto the new one. They're just stuck on the back with some adhesive, it's not a big deal. You don't even need to stick them on super accurately either, as running a calibration should compensate for any slight offsets. You can even stick it onto a screen without a digitizer if it's cheaper, though nowadays the price is usually the same with or without one. As for the LED strip, they're often a size and arrangement specific to the panel, you can search eBay for a suitable replacement.

 95 
 on: December 20, 2016, 08:33:21 PM 
Started by sinusoid - Last post by beanhead
Hey, sorry for the slow replies!

Look for similar ones from Sharp on panelook.com that use the same pinout on their datasheet. Most starting with "LQ133T1JW" ought to be interchangeable, but check the datasheet just to be sure. If your current panel only has a backlight issue, you should be able to swap out the LED strip with a new one. There's plenty of LQ133T1JW02's on eBay, seems like the main difference is that they're thicker and taller than the W17's by just half a millimeter.

Thank you so much for the link- do you know if I would be able to exchange the screen with any of those other ones and still keep the digitizer and drawing capabilities intact? I use this for all of my art so I really need to keep its drawing ability, and I'm not sure if the digitizer is a separate piece or somehow bound to the screen itself. Also, would I need any kind of specific LED strip to just replace that, or could I find that more easily? I'm sorry if these are obvious questions or anything, I don't know much about screens. I've figured that it is probably a light problem because I have a vertical band on the screen with color distortion and flickering and heat at the bottom, but every computer specialist I've been to has been unwilling to help or open the screen to check this. I was wondering if I could simply replace the LED strip which would be obviously ideal.

Hey, no need to be sorry, and welcome to the forums! Smiley

I found it on a local auction site, but I can't see it available anymore. Depending on your location, you might want to set up alerts for these parts on ebay or other services, via rss or otherwise. You'll hit your part within 2-3 months usually, unless it's really rare. You can also try AliExpress, it should be available there either new or refurbished.

Thank you! I've been periodically checking ebay but I think I'll set up alerts for it, thank you for the suggestion. I checked out AliExpress and can't seem to find it in stock there, but I have found it on Alibaba for what I'm assuming was only wholesale, so I wasn't sure if I would be able to buy only one piece. The T904 and its parts seem to get more scarce over time so I hope I can find it somewhere.

 96 
 on: December 20, 2016, 08:48:14 AM 
Started by Ertew - Last post by bernard
"halfkay" is the proprietary bootloader in the Teensy and Waxbee only knows that. You need to save the ".hex" file and use other means to upload it to the pro micro.  Watch that you program using the correct parameters, I have heard pro micros can be "bricked" easily. (something very hard to do with a Teensy).

 97 
 on: December 20, 2016, 08:45:02 AM 
Started by Tymnus - Last post by bernard
UD-1218-R and UD-1212-R are (almost) the same device. Control board is the same (or at least I didn't see a difference) so the conversion guides will work as is. The difference is in the firmware to handle the bigger board and as a consequence the Waxbee configuration.

 98 
 on: December 19, 2016, 07:52:21 AM 
Started by nazmo76 - Last post by rodder
What happened with your project dude?

 99 
 on: December 15, 2016, 12:57:46 PM 
Started by Mystic-X - Last post by Pesho
Are you referring to the pen digitizer on the X61t or the touchscreen that's included in some models? Because connecting the pen digitizer is pretty easy and straight-forward, but i haven't seen anyone connect the touchscreen yet.

Pen digitizer only. It doesn't have touch, besides, I don't like using touch at all.

So, WaxBee on a Teensy, and it should work fine, right?

Yep. Pinout is:

Pin 1 -> GND
Pin 13 -> VCC 3.3V
Pin 10 -> TX
Pin 9 -> RX

At least that's what the pinout has been for all the digitizers i've tried, one of which is from an X61T.

 100 
 on: December 15, 2016, 12:37:38 PM 
Started by profaldo - Last post by DaBotz
Not exactly a script - you'd have to write a "filter" that "disconnects" the touch tracking when... and here comes the fun part.

Disconnect the touch sensor when the pen "hits" the surface?

If you use Lazy Nezumi, the result would be that, when you touch the surface, the cursor "jumps" from where you were changing settings to where you are drawing, likely adding a straight line in the drawing.

If you decide that the touch screen "disengage" on pen hovering over the drawing area, to use the touch you have to stop, raising the pen a cm before going back.

Now, with any decent set-up (not only a "true" Cintiq, but even just my ungodly wireless Numpad + Device dependent macros) you can keep hammering your hot-keys WHILE you draw...

For example, changing the reference size of the brush in between strokes.

And this is the reason why a lot of those that tried it (or worse, have bought a Wacom that has it) decided to forgot the whole touch function, while they draw.

It may be useful when you are not drawing, maybe...

But what represents a near-comfortable work-flow on a 10'' (using your fingers to interact with the GUI) becomes an hassle if you use it on, say, a 22".






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