test1
September 25, 2017, 01:57:43 AM *
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
News: You may have to login twice the first time,  but we don't know why - Erm I mean it's a security thing yeah that's it - security.
 
   Home   Help Search Login Register  
Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 5
  Print  
Author Topic: All you need to know about FFC's (Flat Flexible Cables)  (Read 60465 times)
Drewid
Administrator
Hero Member
*****
Posts: 2284


wielder of electric crayons


View Profile
« on: December 17, 2006, 10:51:22 PM »

Here are a few Tutorials/Things about FFC's.  These were merged together by Switz, but please give the appropriate credit to the author.  If you need help, state what you need help with, not just, "I NEED HELP."  Thank you. -Switz/Drew/All the Bongofishians

FFCs are the very thin flat cables commonly used around LCD screens.  They are usually grey or orange, and very tiny 'printed' copper tracks rather than wire.  The number of tracks varys from a few up to 40.  If you take a digi photo of the board and look at it close up you should see a number which is the number of the tracks, (or you can always count them).   Divide the width of the cable by the number of tracks  to give you the pitch, usually 0.5mm or 1mm.  For example a 10mm cable with 20 ways will have a .5mm pitch.

These clips vary in size from very very small to quite large, depending on the size of cable they are holding. 


These are not the same as molex clips for holding ribbon cables or multi-wire cables. Those require a different strategy.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------


* FFCs.jpg (44.01 KB, 419x362 - viewed 17818 times.)
« Last Edit: December 18, 2007, 07:17:31 AM by switz » Logged

Games work site:  Drewnorthcott.co.uk
Personal site: Bongofish.co.uk
Drewid
Administrator
Hero Member
*****
Posts: 2284


wielder of electric crayons


View Profile
« Reply #1 on: December 17, 2006, 11:22:29 PM »

Opening a FFC (ZIF) Socket

If you've never met them before Flat Flexible cables seem to be impossible to undo and easy to break, once you know the trick it's very very easy.

The cables use a ZIF socket,  ZIF stands for Zero Insertion Force,  the clue is in the title - Zero Force. If you are having to push or pull anything it's probably not right.

The trick is that the sockets they plug in to have clips that hold the cable in place. The clips are often a different colour to the rest of the socket, there are two main types that I've seen, the door and the slide.





type 1 the door.
This acts like a tiny hinge, insert a fingernail under the edge and pull gently, it just pops right open, then the cable can be slid out.
putting the cable back in is just the reverse procedure. insert the cable as far as it will go, once it is nice and snug shut the flap and it is held securely in place.
 

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 
 


* Clip1.jpg (7.18 KB, 339x213 - viewed 17557 times.)
« Last Edit: December 18, 2007, 07:18:46 AM by switz » Logged

Games work site:  Drewnorthcott.co.uk
Personal site: Bongofish.co.uk
Drewid
Administrator
Hero Member
*****
Posts: 2284


wielder of electric crayons


View Profile
« Reply #2 on: December 17, 2006, 11:24:59 PM »

Type 2 is the slide.  I've seen different versions of this one but they act in the same way.

There is a tiny clip on each side of the cable holder. Sometimes you can see that they are linked, on some it is under the cable,  They both work the same way.      Put a fingernail into the crack on each side and pull gently,  the clip will slide away from the rest of the socket by a small amount.   The cable will then slide easily out.

Replacing the cable is the reverse, but it can be a little more fiddly than the door type clip.   Slide the cable into place and squeeze the two sides back into place.   Sometimes pushing the cable in will catch on the slide and and it will jam, take it out and start again.   holding the clip open with one hand while sliding in the cable with the other.      To do this and hold the cable may require one more hand than you are equipped with, but most will work with a couple of attempts.


* Clip2.jpg (12.85 KB, 431x252 - viewed 17980 times.)

* Clip3.jpg (14.97 KB, 431x252 - viewed 17083 times.)
Logged

Games work site:  Drewnorthcott.co.uk
Personal site: Bongofish.co.uk
Drewid
Administrator
Hero Member
*****
Posts: 2284


wielder of electric crayons


View Profile
« Reply #3 on: December 18, 2006, 06:03:58 PM »

Repairing Torn FFC's

It's possible to repair a torn FFC with sandpaper and an extension kit. (I've not tried this yet but read it somewhere).

Cut it neatly across.

Stick a bit of insulating tape about 1/4" (5mm) from the cut end. 

Sand "along the grain" gently till you clean off the insulation between the tape and the end. Not too much or you'll remove the tracks as well. 

Gently remove the tape starting from the non-sanded side.

Pictures to follow. (Might take a couple of days)  Roll Eyes
« Last Edit: December 18, 2007, 07:16:56 AM by switz » Logged

Games work site:  Drewnorthcott.co.uk
Personal site: Bongofish.co.uk
Switz
Hero Member
*****
Posts: 1163


S W I N T I Q If it aint broke, MAKE IT BETTER!


View Profile WWW
« Reply #4 on: February 03, 2007, 05:42:54 PM »

How to calculate what FFC you need and what its pitch is

Ok, pretty simple, but saw a thread and realized I also didn't know how at first so here we go.

First, take a macro (your camera may have a setting called macro or magnifying glass, if not, try the best settings) shot of the end of one side of the FFC cable:

(It is a big picture so it is easier to count, I will keep the next few smaller)

Then, go into mspaint or photoshop or something and paint each black line while you count:
For each black line, that means one pin


Now, check the width of the cable(DO NOT MEASURE THE CABLE IN THE MIDDLE, MEASURE THE HEAD WHERE THE BLACK LINES ARE):



Now, it is all about the math.

20 pins, 10mm         10 divided by 20 = .5      It is a .5 pitch!!!



Pretty simple isn't it?


Sorry, for the pics looking bad, had to do it  in paint cause photoshop was being all pissy
« Last Edit: December 18, 2007, 07:18:04 AM by switz » Logged


Made that, not my best, but I love it.  Firefoxy lol
It's all fun and games till someone loses a testicle.   Cheesy
enixidfrag
New Poster
*
Posts: 7


View Profile
« Reply #5 on: October 18, 2007, 05:58:09 PM »

Nice tutorial

please note most commonly in my experiance you see type 1 in electornics there really VERY easy to use just use an exacto knife to open the latch Cheesy
Logged
theotocopulitos
New Poster
*
Posts: 17


View Profile WWW
« Reply #6 on: August 07, 2009, 08:26:49 PM »

Drew, would it be possible to reupload the pictures for this tutorial, please?
Logged

My build log and other stuff... at http://idlemindworkshop.wordpress.com
bernard
Administrator
Hero Member
*****
Posts: 2584


pato mania


View Profile
« Reply #7 on: August 08, 2009, 12:02:09 AM »

All the external images are pretty much uncontrollable -- for example, most of the images in this thread are from "http://f.exoload.com" -- nothing to do with bongofish -- you would have to try to contact the one that posted the images.
« Last Edit: August 08, 2009, 12:06:30 AM by bernard » Logged
bernard
Administrator
Hero Member
*****
Posts: 2584


pato mania


View Profile
« Reply #8 on: August 08, 2009, 01:28:08 AM »

I was only talking about the external images until I saw some post attachments -- maybe that is what you were referring to?  Grin  --  yeah -- those I have some hope...  Are they just "lost in the system" or really deleted Drew?
Logged
Drewid
Administrator
Hero Member
*****
Posts: 2284


wielder of electric crayons


View Profile
« Reply #9 on: August 08, 2009, 05:40:35 PM »

Lost in the system but still there somewhere.  Hopefully we can rescue a load of the missing images after the forum moves to the new server. I'm working on that right now,  it but it might take a few days
Logged

Games work site:  Drewnorthcott.co.uk
Personal site: Bongofish.co.uk
theotocopulitos
New Poster
*
Posts: 17


View Profile WWW
« Reply #10 on: August 08, 2009, 07:38:52 PM »

Thanks, great!  Grin
Logged

My build log and other stuff... at http://idlemindworkshop.wordpress.com
vash.3d
New Poster
*
Posts: 3


View Profile
« Reply #11 on: February 09, 2010, 12:40:35 PM »

Hi all!

I'm starting to build my homemade cintiq.
I've got all I need except for a ffc connector.
I've searched on diy-beamer, but I can't find it there:
there is the cable but not the connector.

i need a 20 pin 0.5 pitch connector

other place to find it? (in europe?)


thanks in advance.
Logged
Angrysunshine
New Poster
*
Posts: 14


View Profile
« Reply #12 on: April 02, 2010, 08:40:27 PM »

Sorry to post about this in your post, but I can't start a new topic and don't know how to fix that (PM'ed Switz, but no reply after a few weeks) and this is related to ffc's, broken ones anyway.

I have a ffc that is/was soldered directly to the board. It was old and stale and it cracked (right where it is connected to the board). It's half off now. I have an image of it, but am not sure how to insert it.

Is it fixable? Since it attaches directly to the board, is it still possible to attach a new one? What kind? etc.

I'm very new, if you couldn't tell, but have been reading this forum for a while.
Logged
cellofaan
Sr. Member
****
Posts: 240


View Profile
« Reply #13 on: April 02, 2010, 10:16:30 PM »

You can start a new topic after making 1 reply in an existing topic.

The only way to connect a new ffc cable is to solder it directly to the board.
You could try to vile down the broken connections, and just press the cable against them. If they make good contact, it will probably work, but it isn't easy to fix it in place and keeping the pressure on it.
Logged
Angrysunshine
New Poster
*
Posts: 14


View Profile
« Reply #14 on: April 05, 2010, 02:04:53 PM »

@ cellofaan

Thanks for responding so fast. I'm going to start a new post about this on the Heyaaaalpppp board so I don't fill this one with my issues. It's called "broken FFC". I do have followup questions if you'd be willing to keep helping me out.
« Last Edit: April 05, 2010, 02:55:13 PM by Angrysunshine » Logged
Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 5
  Print  
 
Jump to:  


Powered by MySQL Powered by PHP Powered by SMF 1.1.21 | SMF © 2015, Simple Machines Valid XHTML 1.0! Valid CSS!