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Author Topic: success ** Samtiq II ** amazing images on page 6  (Read 78176 times)
Rumi
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« Reply #30 on: February 08, 2007, 06:58:03 AM »

Alright I tested as much as I could with the Samsung 152T and now I am going to try something else, so I put the Samsung back together. Here is the result of UNstripping:


It is harder to put the thing back together than stripping it! Specially because I had extended the controller cable and wrapped all this aluminum and electrical tape around it so it wouldn't fit any more. I had to get rid of all the alu wrapping so that the cable was thin enough to close the case. Phew.... I am glad that is back together and there were a couple of times when I thought I had stuffed the monitor, I plugged it in to check and was getting nothing. I was convinced that I had finally killed the poor bugger but then I realized that the computer had gone asleep so that's why there was no display! Smiley

Ok so now I start with "Samtiq II, the return of the jitters" or maybe "Samtiq II, the jitterminator" Smiley
I have decided to go with the monitor that Drew has used for his build the Dell 1503fp. Here it is:

Unfortunately as soon as I bought it these messages started appearing about jitter problems with the 1503fp! Lucky aren't I? Anyway the strip will begin soon. I just hope that the FFC is a 20pin 0.5pitch so I can use my extension from the Samsung.
« Last Edit: February 08, 2007, 07:00:13 AM by Rumi » Logged

wei803
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« Reply #31 on: February 08, 2007, 08:30:43 AM »

All I can say is... goodluck mate!
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Switz
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« Reply #32 on: February 08, 2007, 09:51:45 PM »

There are two versions of the Dell 1503fp (possibly more)

The one drew has (two 40 pin .5 pitch ffc)

or

Mine (1 20 pin .5 pitch)



You better hope you have mine (we all know its better anyway Wink)
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Made that, not my best, but I love it.  Firefoxy lol
It's all fun and games till someone loses a testicle.   Cheesy
Rumi
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« Reply #33 on: February 10, 2007, 04:39:29 AM »

Firstly a little bit about the Dell 1503fp before we get into the stripped version.
Operating side-by-side with the Samsung 152T, this monitor is not very bright and the colours look muddy, the Samsung picture looked sharper, more contrasty and vivid. But if this means that I will have an operational unit then I will be happy with animating on that and using a second monitor for colours and things.

The stripping was very straight forward and much easier than the Samsung, most things came apart by undoing screws, only got to clicked-in things when I got to the metal cage protecting the LCD unit. I didn't take any photos because this monitor has been stripped and documented by many other people.

The LCD panel in this monitor is a HannStar HSD150MX12, the date of manufacture of the monitor is 06/2002. The panel has one CCFL and the backlight slab is tappered just like Robcat's, in fact I think that these are the exact same monitors just re badged. Which means that I have to be very careful with the row column drivers because two people have ended up with dead monitors because of the row/column drivers breaking away from the LCD unit. Comparing these connectors to the ones that I saw in the Samsung, the Dell ones look a bit cheaply made, so I will try to be as gentle as I can with them.

The controller to column driver cable is a normal ribbon type cable with enough room for me to be able to put the controller underneath a 9x12 tablet and the backlight cable is just long enough to reach around the other side.

There is a FFC connecting the column drivers to the row drivers. This is a 20pin 0.5 pitch FFC which is thankfully the same as what I used for the Samsung so I am happy that I didnt have to order another FFC kit.

The monitor has VGA and DVI inputs, although I don't notice as much difference in the VGA to DVI picture quality as I did with the Samsung 152T. It has an external 12V power supply  rated at 3Amps.

Trying Bhraaz's Opening Gambit, which is placing the turned off LCD on the tablet to see if the tablet could read the pen through the unit, resulted in a fail. There is a piece of metal shielding at the back of the LCD unit which stops the pen from being read so you need to strip further and remove the cage and protective plastic casing to remove this shield.

Ok so it is completely stripped now and sitting on top of the UC-Logic PF1209, I turn on the monitor and straight away the computer starts receiving random click!  Sad  I tried various things like removing the CCFL but the random clicking stays. Very disappointed by this result, so after fiddling around a bit more I decided that I would try putting my Wacom 6x8 (still in it's case) under the LCD to see if that work.

After wrestling with Win XP to uninstall other tablet drivers and then reinstalling the new ones, I turned the unit on, no random clicking, no cursor flying to one side of the screen! I draw on the LCD and it shows up on the monitor just as I drew it, no crazy wiggles or bird droppings! I couldn't believe it! It was working!  Cheesy

If I touch the pen on the screen and old it there, there is a tiny bit of a jitter but when I am drawing at speed I don't notice it and the lines are almost the same as how I drew them (with a tiny bit of snaking), what's more there is no shielding or earthing at all in this test, just put one thing on top of the other. I tried the test with drawing white on black and no noticeable difference.

I'm very happy about this, I just hope I will get the same result with a larger Wacom.

So here is my conclusion:
  • Wacom technology is different to the other tablets, so if you get a non Wacom tablet with the same monitor as Drew's chances are that it wont work. This has caused a lot of confusion because we have been trying to reproduce Drew's results using non-Wacom tablets and different LCDs. So you can't just grab any tablet and put it under any LCD to get a Cintiq.
  • Drew has magically found a monitor which seems to run at the right frequency so that there is minimum interference with the Wacom tablets. I tried the Samsung 152T with the Wacom and that WAS intefering, so was Wei's. There is something about the Dell 1503fp and other monitors which are the same but re badged (robcat's IBM) that doesn't stuff up the Wacoms.
  • If you have a non Wacom tablet there are probably LCDs out there which wont interfere with the tablet but we haven't found any yet. The easiest thing would be to open up a XPC-1700B and have a look, that has a UC-Logic module in it. Not so easy would be to keep buying LCDs and trying them one by one.

Now I have to wait for the 9x12 Wacom to do more tests.
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DonShole
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« Reply #34 on: February 10, 2007, 09:29:22 AM »

Interesting observations.  I got a 15" packard Bell monitor L15CX(25 ms response rate) - the actual lcd is a samsung - LTM150XH-L01 seems to be the serial number.  Putting the stripped monitor (with CCFLs in place) on top of an unstripped genius 5x4 wizardpen gave me random right clicks but no jitters.  Disabling the pen right-click stopped the random clicking.  I'm waiting on a 12 x 9 nisis tablet, so still holding my breath.
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EZ CINTIQ. How to build a DIY Cintiq, it's  easier than a DIY PC! www.tabletmod.com
Drewid
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« Reply #35 on: February 10, 2007, 10:46:34 AM »

Now that's interesting The LCD from my dell wasn't a HannStar, I know dell change LCDs between different revisions of the same monitor. I'll see If I can dig out the screen make and number.
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Rumi
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« Reply #36 on: February 11, 2007, 10:21:38 AM »

@DonShole

I believe the Genius tablet is a re-badged UC-Logic tablet so that's why we both have this random clicking problem. Not sure about the nisis tablet.
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DonShole
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« Reply #37 on: February 11, 2007, 10:31:11 AM »

From my research, it would seem that nisis, aiptek, adesso and trust all use the same sensor boards.
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EZ CINTIQ. How to build a DIY Cintiq, it's  easier than a DIY PC! www.tabletmod.com
kubi
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« Reply #38 on: February 11, 2007, 01:42:43 PM »

i add to nisis, aiptek, adesso : medion and trust
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DonShole
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« Reply #39 on: February 12, 2007, 09:31:18 AM »

Hi Rumi,

What is the name of the connector you have used in your diy extension with the ribbon cable and where did you find it?
Thanks

Don
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EZ CINTIQ. How to build a DIY Cintiq, it's  easier than a DIY PC! www.tabletmod.com
Rumi
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« Reply #40 on: February 12, 2007, 09:39:27 AM »

Hello DonShole,

The original cable connecting the controller card to the column drivers was too short so I cut it and added the ribbon cable in between the original connectors. There was a fair bit of work involved in soldering each little wire and it's good to have a multimeter so that you can check to see if the correct wires have been joined.
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wei803
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« Reply #41 on: February 13, 2007, 02:00:03 AM »

If you don't have the meter, just cut and join one by one. Do not cut all of them and start scramble which is which.
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Switz
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« Reply #42 on: February 13, 2007, 04:24:08 AM »

Same one as mine.

Which cables did you extend?  Edge connectors to Driver board or board to inverter?
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Made that, not my best, but I love it.  Firefoxy lol
It's all fun and games till someone loses a testicle.   Cheesy
Rumi
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« Reply #43 on: February 13, 2007, 05:15:36 AM »

I extended the edge connector to controller, which was more work but the controller and the inverter on my LCD were secured to a board as one module and I thought I would keep them together.
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Switz
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« Reply #44 on: February 13, 2007, 08:43:32 PM »

ok, I am thinking about extending my controller to inverter because I can get my controller behind the tablet without extending
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Made that, not my best, but I love it.  Firefoxy lol
It's all fun and games till someone loses a testicle.   Cheesy
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