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Author Topic: artmach1's Build log  (Read 16103 times)
artmach1
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« on: January 08, 2007, 07:57:40 PM »

Starting one of these and I am far into a build but first a question.
What is the cause of the offset from penpoint to cursor?
I don't see a driver setting and it exists with the lights off.
Could it be just inverter (running)  interference or the metal in the tubes?
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artmach1
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« Reply #1 on: January 08, 2007, 08:01:02 PM »

Wacom Intuos GD 12x18 serial tablet.
Sceptre Naga 20.1" widescreen LCD.
Windows XP
Clear lucite acrylic overlay.
« Last Edit: January 08, 2007, 08:02:44 PM by artmach1 » Logged
Drewid
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« Reply #2 on: January 08, 2007, 11:25:00 PM »

Welcome to the world of posting Artmach1.

Are you going to post some pics? I'd love to see how you're doing.

Is the offset steady? if so then it can be fixed in the drivers. (i'm doing this from memory but I'll check toimorrow)


Callibrating - (this is for the UD drivers, but I expect that other wacom drivers are similar.)


First you'll need to know the pen position relative to the tablet.

Under the help menu there is a diagnostics item, start the diagnostics.  This reads the pen and give button presses and pen position in 'counts'     note the count value for the pen at the left/right/top/bottom of the screen.  It will jitter a bit but try to get an average.

Next you need to look in the mapping/speed tab  for the "advanced mapping" button.

First get the display set. You can use any option but using a mouse to click the corners is accurate enough.
For total accuracy you can type in pixel numbers. On a dual screen in windows you base that on the Monitor Two position compared to monitor one. Say if both monitors are 1024x768, and monitor two is on the right, then the monitor two pixel count will start at x1025 y0 in the top left corner, and will go to x2048y768 in the bottom right.   If monitor one is 1600 wide then monitor two starts at x1601.
 
Next set the tablet position. You can display the position in counts so stick in the numbers you noted into the top section and try the pen on the screen.
adjust the numbers with the pointer sitting at the edges of the screen, you'll need to enter the number hit return and apply it to see any result.  the count's a really small so try adjusting hundreds at first

Once callibrated the pointer may not stay exactly under the pen across the whole width of the screen, It may drift by a pixel or two. 
Cintiqs can also suffer from the same problem.  Apart from writing our own drivers with a callibration grid there's not very much we can do about that.




« Last Edit: January 10, 2007, 10:30:49 AM by Drewid » Logged

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artmach1
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« Reply #3 on: January 09, 2007, 12:38:23 AM »

Thanks Drewid I am going to post pics soon. I didn't photograph any strip down stuff but I will post the working sandwich shortly. I need to get some drafting acetate to cover the lucite (so it won't get all scratchy) before I calibrate with your suggestions.
I am trying to eliminate interference as a possibility. The offset is steady in that the distance from point to point is consistent but the cursor is jittery. I'm not pressing too hard yet but could that be this electromagnetic interference from the power section I've been hearing about? I don't know what that looks like.

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goDogs
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« Reply #4 on: January 09, 2007, 10:59:06 AM »

Ooo big tablet..

May I ask how much it has cost you so far, or at least how much the Wacom cost you?

Good luck to you, pardon my unhelpful post. =(
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artmach1
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« Reply #5 on: January 09, 2007, 09:15:22 PM »

I bought the monitor new for $200 (after rebate) from NewEgg.
I had the tablet ($0) so I figured the investment in the monitor was worth it.
Lexan was $12 but it is still flexing so I'm looking for something else.
I am going to use foam core ($5) to brace the monitor in place. I plan to carve vent paths into the bottom of the form core to route air to an eventual cooling fan.

I have a serial to USB adaptor for OSX use. When I configure the tablet in XP I plan to use that and Tablet Magic for my Mac (which I prefer).

Here are a few pics:



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artmach1
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« Reply #6 on: January 09, 2007, 11:02:57 PM »


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Drewid
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« Reply #7 on: January 09, 2007, 11:31:40 PM »

That's got me all excited seeing that drawing.  That's brilliant.
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artmach1
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« Reply #8 on: January 09, 2007, 11:57:11 PM »

Oh yeah, I have the monitor upside down and the screen flipped in the Graphics OS. I'm doing that because the ribbon board would get in the way of the button bar. I'm not sure I care about the buttons yet, I never really use them...but since ithe tablet  is going to be the screen now they might come in handy. I wonder if the flipping thing uses up extra resources? Plus when i have to adjust the monitor setting (not too often) the OSD is upside down.
Maybe I will change that orientation...
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Drewid
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« Reply #9 on: January 10, 2007, 10:23:09 AM »

I've adjusted the callibration thing to reflect real life rather than my creaky rememberings
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artmach1
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« Reply #10 on: January 10, 2007, 05:37:10 PM »

A little video of a quick test
http://youtube.com/watch?v=xdxFucCHoIM
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Tanassi
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« Reply #11 on: January 10, 2007, 06:27:42 PM »

Hi, Artmach,

it seem to work quite well, you need only to improve calibration, the cursor is a little bit off the pen tip.

good work... Vince
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klaus
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« Reply #12 on: January 11, 2007, 03:57:22 PM »

Hey I was wondering, the monitor you are using doesn't it have an internal powersupply?
If so, was it hard to get off?

Klaus
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artmach1
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« Reply #13 on: January 11, 2007, 05:17:26 PM »

Klaus,
It does have an internal power supply. In the pictures it is to the left of the tablet with a standard ac socket dangling off it.
This is going to live behind the tablet back alongside the video inputs. Just kind of flipped over with wires wrapping around and behind the tablet stuff and through the back board. I can then easily shield it from the outside world and I guess the tablet. I haven't tried this underside config yet but I am not expecting any interference. We'll see...

I am still looking for a good surface that is stiff enough to lean on without too much risk of shattering. I have a piece of tempered glass but it is so thick...

Also I am fiddling with enclosure ideas and I might go with an aluminum picture frame with a matte inset. With that in mind I went to this site:
http://www.pictureframes.com/scripts/WebObjects/PictureFrames.woa/wa/FrameShop

and designed this (roughly):


just to see. I didn't take any measurements but I don't see why that wouldn't work.

$33.20 and ready to go.
Still pondering...
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artmach1
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« Reply #14 on: January 16, 2007, 03:49:56 PM »

Gonna try to replicate the original enclosure and stand as close as I can. Found this to use as a reference.

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