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Author Topic: Looking for a good 21" Monitor?  (Read 20138 times)
Drewid
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« Reply #15 on: November 26, 2008, 02:18:04 PM »

We've had builds with internal supplies and no jitter problems. so it's not a definite thing, it's just luck as to the frequencies used I guess.

Definite causes of jitter so far proved.

Interference from the column/row driver boards directly attached to the LCD panel.

Metal between the pen and the sensor. (often causes drop-outs too).

Interference picked up by FFC cables.  This cable was cut down from 20 to 16 tracks by trimming the ends. The unused cables managed to pick up interference from somewhere and magically induced it into the wacom, it went away when they were removed.

Failing external power supply.  jitter went away when the supply went pop and was replaced.

Some monitors will work jitter free with intuos 2 but not intuos 1,  Wacom changed the pen frequence for the intuos two, so that's caused confusion in the past.

 
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bnewbie
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« Reply #16 on: November 26, 2008, 02:31:28 PM »

Hi Drew,

Thanks very much for taking the time to go through it. I did notice that most of the projects here was with newer tablets, however I didn't have too much choice on eBay. Okay maybe I did but I wasn't all that keen to spend £250+ on a tablet (mainly because I'm not a professional artist/illustrator, but I digress).

I'm trying to find a 21.3" 4:3 on eBay or elsewhere now. I'll start a build log once I get the bits in order. I'm also looking to replace the backlight with LED backlight strips (reduce heat and power usage considerably) but lets see if I can walk first Smiley

Edit: Regarding the interference on the FFC cables - did you try to wrap them in foil? (apologies if this sounds patronising). The reason I ask is that sometimes I've seen FFC cables wrapped in some type of fairly thick foil and I presume this can only help reduce this.

I must confess this DIY Cintiq thing is quite addictive Smiley

Cheers,

L.
« Last Edit: November 26, 2008, 03:01:25 PM by bnewbie » Logged
Drewid
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« Reply #17 on: November 28, 2008, 02:23:00 PM »

The thing is I was aided by dumb luck in my build.  There's a very minor amount of jitter in a few places out near the screen edge, but only a pixel or so even there.
Purely down to the monitor / tablet combo and nothing at all to do with me knowing what I'm doing.

Wrapping cables has been used before, and is definitely only a couple down from the top in terms of things to try.

Oh and don't worry about sounding patronising,  What's obvious to you might not be to someone else, or might have been overlooked.  It's the old "is it plugged in, is it turned on?" thing.  It's always worth just checking.
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brimblashman
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« Reply #18 on: September 13, 2010, 10:48:36 PM »

Hello forum, first post Smiley

I just got today an lg w2286l in the post which has an external power brick, is led backlit as well and apparently is 16:10. (is for an intuos 3 a3wide Cheesy)

I'm pretty sure that LG E2250V 21.5 inch, LG E2240S-PN 22 inch and the hp X22LED have external power supplies, not quite the right size but might be useful...

« Last Edit: September 13, 2010, 10:54:39 PM by brimblashman » Logged
Drucifer74
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« Reply #19 on: January 22, 2011, 07:28:05 AM »

Laptop monitors seem easier to mod than desktop but in my experience you are looking for a high input socket on the rear for the VGA DVI. if they are lower on the rear of the monitor, then odds are they are not lvds. Just my thoughts.

Drew
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Rik!
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« Reply #20 on: August 06, 2011, 10:26:53 PM »

Hello, I already  said it in another topic but I'm building my DIY cintiq with an LG IPS226 wich is a 21.5' IPS monitor with LED backlight and external PSU.
Mounted with a intuos 3 A3 it's just amazing ! ( IPS ROCKS !) and it's pretty cheap : 159€ FTM
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Sullemunk
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« Reply #21 on: May 28, 2015, 08:32:52 PM »

I am woundering if this samsung monitor would be a good candidate for a wacom ptz-1231 (A3) diy cintiq?
It's a 21,5" screen with external power supply, and rather cheap.
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Aerendraca
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« Reply #22 on: May 29, 2015, 07:07:44 AM »

Unfortunately there's no way to know without trying it, as yet there are no hard and fast guidelines for selecting a screen that is guaranteed to work sorry of using a panel someone else has had success with. With that said there are a few things you can look research to improve your chances.

1. Given the price similarities these days I recommend LED backlighting over CCFL. There's less chance of injuring yourself with high voltage and the panels trend to be thinner.

2. Laptop screens are typically much thinner than monitor panels. The closer the pen is to the digitizer the stronger the signal, having the pen closer also reduces the visible effects of parallax.
It's worth investigating how thick the Samsung panel is, bare in mind that a normal maximum working height of the poems above the digitizer is between 12mm to 14mm, so I would recommend a maximum of 8mm thick + 2mm cover glass to protect it. At this sort of distance though you are likely to experience the parallax effects I mentioned previously.

3. Check to see the circuit configuration on the back of the panel, really you want to have a single PCB attached to one side only so that you can fold this out from underneath without needing to extend anything. Most screens have this configuration these days but some don't.

4. If you go for a monitor the power supply board is bare, be careful not to shock yourself with live mains voltage! In this case though this appears not to be a problem as you have said that the monitor you are interested in has an external supply. As a matter of point if you use a laptop screen you will need to get an LVDS controller circuit (about £20), you'll also need a power supply 'brick' (<£10).



I recommend looking at some of the successful build and seeing what they've used.

As a point of clarity when I refer to the panel I mean the actual glass and backlight assembly not the monitor as a whole. This is important to note as you will need to research which panel the Samsung monitor has within it.

Good places to look for information are beyond infinite and panelook.com.
« Last Edit: May 29, 2015, 08:20:52 AM by Aerendraca » Logged
identity
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« Reply #23 on: April 13, 2016, 09:46:47 PM »

AOC I2260s internal power supply
AOC I2260SWD internal power supply
AOC I2279VWHE external power supply

All three tested and working and compatible with intuos3 xl 12x19
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DaBotz
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« Reply #24 on: May 15, 2016, 06:52:15 PM »

AOC I2260s internal power supply
AOC I2260SWD internal power supply
AOC I2279VWHE external power supply

All three tested and working and compatible with intuos3 xl 12x19

Thanks for the information, identity.
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