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Question: should i buy a 12"X12" wacom or a A3 Tevion?
Wacom - 1 (100%)
Tevion - 0 (0%)
Total Voters: 1

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Author Topic: Screen/Tablet size  (Read 12573 times)
BHCS
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« on: February 26, 2010, 11:30:35 PM »

Hi guys,

I stumbled upon this after failing to make my own design, i had no idea there was a forum dedicated to this!

well, i currently have a 21" LCD screen dedicated to this project and my case set up, but im having troubles. i ruined my tablet! basically part of the main board snapped after being dropped inside the screen so im at a bit of a standstill, also im not sure it would have worked anyway.

anyway,
i can either buy a 12" X 12" Wacom
or a A3 Tevion Graphics tablet.

neither of these will match up with the screen, i know that with wacom tablets you can select a region to use, but with the wacom its too SMALL, so that wont help, i will need to find out how to downscale the screen size and only use a portion of the screen. (any advice?)

or i will buy the A3 tablet but im not sure if you can use a region of it?

i really need help guys, any advice would be FAB!

thanks,
Joe
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BHCS
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« Reply #1 on: February 27, 2010, 12:14:59 AM »

oh,

another thing-
my screen has a VERY thick back light acrylic sheet (whatever it is)
it uses double lights on each side and so its causing problems, anybody know where i can buy replacement ones?
thanks,
joe
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cellofaan
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« Reply #2 on: February 27, 2010, 12:20:42 AM »

If you're able to scale down the monitor depends on your video drivers, and I guess the connection as well. My nvidia card has options to use a smaller resolution without stretching it, but it can only do it on the laptop screen, and not the external monitor. It's a vga cable connection. I guess a hdmi connection is necessary.

The Tevion tablet is the same as MEdion, Aiptek, or one of those other rebranded tablets. Several people have tried the A4 version, and that doesn't work. Lots and lots of jitter.
For a 21" screen you'll want an Intuos2 A3 or an Intuos3 A3. Too bad you didn't find this site a week ago, there was a great deal on i3 A3 wides on the wacom europe website.

How thick is the backlight slab?

Good luck on your build, and do start a build log. Post some pictures of the broken tablet too.
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BHCS
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« Reply #3 on: February 27, 2010, 12:36:10 AM »

If you're able to scale down the monitor depends on your video drivers, and I guess the connection as well. My nvidia card has options to use a smaller resolution without stretching it, but it can only do it on the laptop screen, and not the external monitor. It's a vga cable connection. I guess a hdmi connection is necessary.

The Tevion tablet is the same as MEdion, Aiptek, or one of those other rebranded tablets. Several people have tried the A4 version, and that doesn't work. Lots and lots of jitter.
For a 21" screen you'll want an Intuos2 A3 or an Intuos3 A3. Too bad you didn't find this site a week ago, there was a great deal on i3 A3 wides on the wacom europe website.

How thick is the backlight slab?

Good luck on your build, and do start a build log. Post some pictures of the broken tablet too.


thanks for the reply Smiley

im most likely going to do with the wacom, i have a MEDION A4 tablet here actually and that didn't work when disassembled, far too much jitter,

i found a  Intuos2 A3, but for £100. the other 12"X12" is only about £20 with £10 postage, but im not sure if i can scale the screen on a mac?

the back light slab is 8mm!
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bernard
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« Reply #4 on: February 27, 2010, 01:14:03 AM »

Welcome! We've been virtually missing you Smiley  Can't wait to see your build!

What is your video card on your mac (which Mac do you have anyway)?   Some have found ways (http://forum.bongofish.co.uk/index.php?topic=1557.0).

Is this a secondary monitor or is meant to be the main screen?  Is this a laptop?   And yes, post pictures and model numbers of everything you are touching (broken or not). What is the LCD Panel (internal component and the monitor itself) brand and model?  All this info might be useful knowledge to others.

If you want us to help you, you have to help us identify your stuff/case.
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cellofaan
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« Reply #5 on: February 27, 2010, 01:23:44 AM »

My backlight slab is about 7mm. 1mm for the screen, and 2 for a glass plate. I have about 6-8mm left on an intuos3. An intuos2 might do the trick as well.

There are several successful builds with an intuos2, but nobody mentions the reading depth. This one used a glass plate of 3.4mm thick, so I think you'll have enough depth to use an 8mm back light slab. http://forum.bongofish.co.uk/index.php?topic=1460.0

I would definitely check if you can scale the screen before buying the wacom. The link Bernard posted is a good one and seems pretty easy.
Otherwise, you'd have to buy a smaller monitor to go with the 12x12, which together would be almost as expensive as the bigger wacom.
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BHCS
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« Reply #6 on: February 27, 2010, 01:47:55 AM »

Welcome! We've been virtually missing you Smiley  Can't wait to see your build!

What is your video card on your mac (which Mac do you have anyway)?   Some have found ways (http://forum.bongofish.co.uk/index.php?topic=1557.0).

Is this a secondary monitor or is meant to be the main screen?  Is this a laptop?   And yes, post pictures and model numbers of everything you are touching (broken or not). What is the LCD Panel (internal component and the monitor itself) brand and model?  All this info might be useful knowledge to others.

If you want us to help you, you have to help us identify your stuff/case.
thanks man Smiley
im running a mac pro with dual screens at the moment.
I was given my dads old 21" screen after it broke (turns out its just a blown fuse) and im getting one to fix it tomorrow.
i stripped down the monitor a long time ago and all i have left literally is just the LCD monitor and all the circuits. sorry, cant find the name Tongue

Quote
My backlight slab is about 7mm. 1mm for the screen, and 2 for a glass plate. I have about 6-8mm left on an intuos3. An intuos2 might do the trick as well.

There are several successful builds with an intuos2, but nobody mentions the reading depth. This one used a glass plate of 3.4mm thick, so I think you'll have enough depth to use an 8mm back light slab. http://forum.bongofish.co.uk/index.php?topic=1460.0

I would definitely check if you can scale the screen before buying the wacom. The link Bernard posted is a good one and seems pretty easy.
Otherwise, you'd have to buy a smaller monitor to go with the 12x12, which together would be almost as expensive as the bigger wacom.
yeah, i found that link a few minutes ago and tested it out, but its jumpy and not fluid enough, also the trial just ran out xD
there must be a way just to get a fixed aspect ratio.


if not i will get the A3 wacom and do everything from there. i will try to haggle the price Cheesy

also, i know this is most likely going to make everybody cringe, and may cause unlimited amounts of hatred towards the newb that i am, but i have another question-
the FCC cables, are they being edited with simply so everything else will fit or have a missed something else? i didn't fully understand what the aim was with them in the original guide/tutorial (shouldn't call it that.) is there a way i could do it without changing them? i have quite a lot of slack between the circuit board and the LCD

let the name calling begin!
« Last Edit: February 27, 2010, 01:50:25 AM by BHCS » Logged
BHCS
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« Reply #7 on: February 27, 2010, 02:37:36 AM »

quick question, how much would you guys say a Wacom Intuos 2 A3 would go for? =/
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bernard
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« Reply #8 on: February 27, 2010, 03:08:43 AM »

All the FFC business is to solve the following problem (not all LCD Panels requires it, but a lot of them do, with varying specifications). BTW, the "LCD Panel" is the LCD component inside a monitor.  LCD Panels contains circuitry.  This circuitry is one or two boards located behind the panel.  The problem with these boards typically creates interference (jitter) (not always, but often).  So the idea is to put the board out of the way since it would essentially be between the digitizer sensor and the pen.  Now, when you have 2 of these boards, it is because you have one over the "top" and one on the side (the column driver and the row driver).  These boards must be "connected" -- and the connection is close to a FFC cable in a "L" shape. It is typically soldered on one side and there is a connector on the other side.   If you try to move the boards (unfold them to the top and the side, the small FFC will not work anymore, since the boards will be too far away).  So you essentially need to " extend" the ffc to connect the boards that are not further away.

This explanation is a good candidate for a wiki page with a few drawings. 
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BHCS
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« Reply #9 on: February 27, 2010, 03:29:50 AM »

All the FFC business is to solve the following problem (not all LCD Panels requires it, but a lot of them do, with varying specifications). BTW, the "LCD Panel" is the LCD component inside a monitor.  LCD Panels contains circuitry.  This circuitry is one or two boards located behind the panel.  The problem with these boards typically creates interference (jitter) (not always, but often).  So the idea is to put the board out of the way since it would essentially be between the digitizer sensor and the pen.  Now, when you have 2 of these boards, it is because you have one over the "top" and one on the side (the column driver and the row driver).  These boards must be "connected" -- and the connection is close to a FFC cable in a "L" shape. It is typically soldered on one side and there is a connector on the other side.   If you try to move the boards (unfold them to the top and the side, the small FFC will not work anymore, since the boards will be too far away).  So you essentially need to " extend" the ffc to connect the boards that are not further away.

This explanation is a good candidate for a wiki page with a few drawings. 
thanks man, great explanation!

this is what i have currently-
http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb177/blesshiscottonsocks/IMG_0404-1.jpg
top left- back-light slab
bottom left- back panel + boards + back-lights
top right - LCD
bottom right - sheets what were in-between LCD and backslab

im assuming that you are talking about the bits of circuit board on the LCD in the top right?
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bernard
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« Reply #10 on: February 27, 2010, 05:34:30 AM »

yes -- I can see the column driver at the top -- and the row connections... well... sticking out -- hum -- are they connected to anything?  I can't see clearly -- image is a bit fuzzy.  If there isn't any other boards -- then you might be all clear!  No FFC to deal with.  Are you able to "unfold" the board attached to the top of the lcd (so it is upside down) ?   You do not want a board behind the lcd (it will be right in front of the sensor).
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cellofaan
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« Reply #11 on: February 27, 2010, 10:25:04 AM »

Looks like there's only a column board. I think all panels bigger than a certain size (or perhaps all widescreen monitors) only have the top pcb.
Those things on the side, my Compaq monitor had them too, they are not connected to anything but the panel itself.
In some monitors the connection between the column board and the other pcb (the green one in the picture) is an ffc cable as well.

Actually, this panel looks very similar to mine (the broken one). It has those side flaps on the panel, and a similar wired connection between the pcb's and the column board, and the individual pcb's. The layout of the pcb's looks similar too. Would it be safe to conclude they are from the same manufacturer? Which would be LG.
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BHCS
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« Reply #12 on: February 27, 2010, 01:12:56 PM »

yes -- I can see the column driver at the top -- and the row connections... well... sticking out -- hum -- are they connected to anything?  I can't see clearly -- image is a bit fuzzy.  If there isn't any other boards -- then you might be all clear!  No FFC to deal with.  Are you able to "unfold" the board attached to the top of the lcd (so it is upside down) ?   You do not want a board behind the lcd (it will be right in front of the sensor).

thanks for all the advice!

yes, there is only one top bar and there is nothing connecting to the sides (i was confused, thought i had lost part of it!)
im glad i dont need to deal with FFC, i should be able to layer it properly but with some slight adjustments and just move the board.

the i have another tablet that i am going to use just to prove the concept before my main A3 board arrives, thanks guys!

Quote
Looks like there's only a column board. I think all panels bigger than a certain size (or perhaps all widescreen monitors) only have the top pcb.
Those things on the side, my Compaq monitor had them too, they are not connected to anything but the panel itself.
In some monitors the connection between the column board and the other pcb (the green one in the picture) is an ffc cable as well.

Actually, this panel looks very similar to mine (the broken one). It has those side flaps on the panel, and a similar wired connection between the pcb's and the column board, and the individual pcb's. The layout of the pcb's looks similar too. Would it be safe to conclude they are from the same manufacturer? Which would be LG.

it may have been, all i can remember of it was that it was in a big shiny black curvy case the back bulged out, it looked somewhat tacky but it seems to be working great for this type of project Smiley
« Last Edit: February 27, 2010, 01:14:39 PM by BHCS » Logged
bernard
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« Reply #13 on: February 27, 2010, 02:54:05 PM »

Isn't the LCD Panel brand & model written on a sticker on the back of the backlight slab?  If you see it, it would be nice that you tell us.   thanks!
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BHCS
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« Reply #14 on: February 27, 2010, 02:58:08 PM »

Isn't the LCD Panel brand & model written on a sticker on the back of the backlight slab?  If you see it, it would be nice that you tell us.   thanks!
ohh! found it

under part of one of the boards, needed to unscrew it all...

LG. Philips LCD co
model : LM170E01-A5K8
P/N : 6870S-0071F

about to test it in a minute Smiley
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