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Question: should i buy a 12"X12" wacom or a A3 Tevion?
Wacom - 1 (100%)
Tevion - 0 (0%)
Total Voters: 1

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Author Topic: Screen/Tablet size  (Read 12565 times)
BHCS
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« Reply #15 on: February 27, 2010, 04:22:05 PM »

ok, the screen works! hooray!

i need to hold it up to the light through... as the backlights seem to be screwing up.

there is obviously power going to them, but for some reason they dont light up apart from one end of each where the light has a pink sort of look.
HELP D:

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb177/blesshiscottonsocks/IMG_0406.jpg

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb177/blesshiscottonsocks/IMG_0407.jpg
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bernard
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« Reply #16 on: February 27, 2010, 06:09:15 PM »

Do you mean both lamp behave the same or only one?  If both, then I suppose the problem is not the lamp but the circuitry -- possibly the inverter.

Do you have a multimeter by any chance?

Maybe this is your chance to start a "led" project (if you are willing) Smiley

Try it with your tablet to test for jitter, reading range, etc.
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BHCS
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« Reply #17 on: February 27, 2010, 07:00:44 PM »

Do you mean both lamp behave the same or only one?  If both, then I suppose the problem is not the lamp but the circuitry -- possibly the inverter.

Do you have a multimeter by any chance?

Maybe this is your chance to start a "led" project (if you are willing) Smiley

Try it with your tablet to test for jitter, reading range, etc.
yeah, both did the same thing, and now both of them are fully dead.
the tubes don't look damaged at all, and yes i do have a multimeter, just not sure what i should be checking/ most effective way to do so.

how hard would a LED project be? Sad
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bernard
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« Reply #18 on: February 27, 2010, 08:17:14 PM »

I could not find the voltage spec for a CCFL tube -- I know it is AC voltage -- and quite high voltage -- that is why there are quite a few precautions where the CCFL is connected on the inverter board (if you look closely).  High voltage can "arc" (spark) if stuff are too close and I do not know if it is safe to put the multimeter there.  (at least not before we know what type of voltage "range" we are dealing with here).   On the other hand, the inverter board is typically powered with 12v (or 5v) DC so you could try to measure that at least.  I didn't see how your inverter board looks like so I can't say for sure what to do.
« Last Edit: February 27, 2010, 09:07:53 PM by bernard » Logged
BHCS
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« Reply #19 on: February 27, 2010, 09:17:22 PM »

I could not find the voltage spec for a CCFL tube -- I know it is AC voltage -- and quite high voltage -- that is why there are quite a few precautions where the CCFL is connected on the inverter board (if you look closely).  High voltage can "arc" (spark) if stuff are too close and I do not know if it is safe to put the multimeter there.  (at least not before we know what type of voltage "range" we are dealing with here).   On the other hand, the inverter board is typically powered with 12v (or 5v) DC so you could try to measure that at least.  I didn't see how your inverter board looks like so I can't say for sure what to do.
there are only two boards,

one has power input with two leads coming out to the backlights, it doesn't seem to be a different board for it.
The other board has output to the screen and another connection to a board with the screen buttons, but that board sadly broke so I'm lost on that part.
That shouldn't change the backlights from working though should it?

I'm worried about the multimeter also, don't want to ruin anything else!
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bernard
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« Reply #20 on: February 27, 2010, 09:33:34 PM »

lol -- understood for the multimeter.  Ok I took a look at your boards again and, yes, the power board feeds the CCFL and the LCD control board.  In other words, the inverter is part of the power board.  It is a dual inverter to be precise (because it can drive 2 CCFL) -- you can see the parts in that "area" of the board is mostly "doubled" (the main piece being a transformer).  You can see all the "care" they took around the connectors for the CCFL lamp -- a big separate connector for each individual wire, the big white "glue" (to make sure nothing comes close to the joints (=arcs) and less chances that it moves), the "holes" in the PCB (board) around the "traces" to insulate more against "arcs".

That other "board" typically host all the buttons for the OSD (On-Screen Display menu) -- including the... "Power" button.  But since you actually saw some image on the lcd, I suppose you were able to power-it-up somehow(?).

My guess is that the inverter board is not functionning correctly, but I may be totally wrong.  It is really a shame to have that great LCD without a backlight!

I would test for jitter with the wacom board(s) to see if it is "worth" persuing a LED project, repairing the CCFL/inverter or replacing with another pair of CCFL/inverter boards.
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BHCS
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« Reply #21 on: February 28, 2010, 12:13:49 AM »

lol -- understood for the multimeter.  Ok I took a look at your boards again and, yes, the power board feeds the CCFL and the LCD control board.  In other words, the inverter is part of the power board.  It is a dual inverter to be precise (because it can drive 2 CCFL) -- you can see the parts in that "area" of the board is mostly "doubled" (the main piece being a transformer).  You can see all the "care" they took around the connectors for the CCFL lamp -- a big separate connector for each individual wire, the big white "glue" (to make sure nothing comes close to the joints (=arcs) and less chances that it moves), the "holes" in the PCB (board) around the "traces" to insulate more against "arcs".

That other "board" typically host all the buttons for the OSD (On-Screen Display menu) -- including the... "Power" button.  But since you actually saw some image on the lcd, I suppose you were able to power-it-up somehow(?).

My guess is that the inverter board is not functionning correctly, but I may be totally wrong.  It is really a shame to have that great LCD without a backlight!

I would test for jitter with the wacom board(s) to see if it is "worth" persuing a LED project, repairing the CCFL/inverter or replacing with another pair of CCFL/inverter boards.
yup, the screen itself works flawlessly, and the jitter test went perfectly.
could i buy a replacement board possibly?
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BHCS
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« Reply #22 on: February 28, 2010, 12:22:24 AM »

I MAY HAVE A FIX!

poking around on the board i found a wobbly capacitor, turns out that one of the ends has snapped, most likely its the problem!

*googles how to fix it without killing myself*
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BHCS
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« Reply #23 on: February 28, 2010, 12:52:27 AM »

bargh,

ok, it wasnt that, but I FOUND THE MISSING BUTTON BOARD!
it was hiding in my soldering set for some reason, fail.

anyway, i just noticed when i turned off my music that there was a small buzzing sound coming from somewhere on the main power board and it continues after i turn it off for at least 30 seconds,
it buzzes for a second, then stops then buzzes again, any advice?
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BHCS
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« Reply #24 on: February 28, 2010, 01:51:17 AM »

holy shit.

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb177/blesshiscottonsocks/IMG_0409.jpg

it exploded.
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bernard
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« Reply #25 on: February 28, 2010, 02:44:21 AM »

 :'(  *funeral dead march music*    Beloved LCD.

Is this hole in the lcd panel? (can't see quite clearly in the picture)
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BHCS
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« Reply #26 on: February 28, 2010, 02:55:52 AM »

:'(  *funeral dead march music*    Beloved LCD.

Is this hole in the lcd panel? (can't see quite clearly in the picture)
no, not the LCD, its under where the board was.
the LCD may still be ok, but i cant test it Sad

im probably going to go from scratch with a GD-1212-U (£50)
with a Samsung SyncMaster™ 152B 15 inch (£30)

i hear you did one of these bernard? any warnings / advice / pieces needed?

thanks Smiley
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bernard
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« Reply #27 on: February 28, 2010, 06:41:36 AM »

Make sure the pen is included with the GD-* board (intuos 1 series). According to some posts, it might be a bit more prone to jitter. (at least compared to the UD* series).  Not sure about the other intuos.

I have a GD-0912-R (Intuos1  Serial  9x12) board but without the pen and power supply -- it was a given and was more to look inside than anything else.

So what "board" is broken again?  The power supply + inverter board?
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cellofaan
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« Reply #28 on: February 28, 2010, 10:39:24 AM »

My condolances for your loss.

But! There have been several succesful builds with intuos1's.

http://forum.bongofish.co.uk/index.php?topic=712.0
http://forum.bongofish.co.uk/index.php?topic=1342.0
http://forum.bongofish.co.uk/index.php?topic=1365.0

The last one uses a 9x12 with the same syncmaster you have.
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BHCS
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« Reply #29 on: February 28, 2010, 09:57:47 PM »

My condolances for your loss.

But! There have been several succesful builds with intuos1's.

http://forum.bongofish.co.uk/index.php?topic=712.0
http://forum.bongofish.co.uk/index.php?topic=1342.0
http://forum.bongofish.co.uk/index.php?topic=1365.0

The last one uses a 9x12 with the same syncmaster you have.
nah, managed to miss out on it being sold on ebay Sad
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