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Author Topic: Help identifying pinout on tablet pc digitizer  (Read 71720 times)
AbeOwitz
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« Reply #30 on: April 04, 2012, 10:29:52 PM »

I bought 3 boards from PCHub.  (wasn't sure of size, operability or that I might toast one.  Wink  )

The SU-035-A01 and SU-031-X02 both have an empty ZD1 pad next to the RF board, as well as some empty resistor pads.  Both are PWB-A638 controller boards.

But why is ZD1 a three node pad?  Weird. 

The SU-012-X03 is fully populated, no sign of a ZD1.  It is a PWB-A561-B board, it has two (RF?) chips on the RF side, rather than one.

The SU-019-C01 also has a dual (RF) chip layout.  PWB-A586-x.  No sign of a ZD1.  This board is interesting, as it actually labels most of the test points with CLK, WKUP, RCLR, etc.

All four boards respond on the serial side of things.

You're right on RTS/DTR.  Smiley  I should try pulling them up to see what happens...

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bernard
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« Reply #31 on: April 05, 2012, 02:20:26 AM »

for the zd1 3 pads mystery, it could be a surface mount power zener.  Some come in SOT-23 package for example.
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AnKi
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« Reply #32 on: November 03, 2012, 09:12:50 PM »

Hi guys, I've been following the topic since a few days ago because I've got two boards SU-031-A02 and SU-029-A01, and what's my prob, I have been trying to connect it via Serial port and for getting the 3.3v I get the idea of using the 3.3v that came from the atx power supply to the motherboard, but I accidentally connected it to the Red pin (5v) instead of the Orange one (3.3v) and since then nothing works usb or serial interfaces, i couldn't get it working before anyway, may I have fried the boards by connecting them to 5v? ><
them uses the 14 pin interface that has the pins from 2 to 6 free

Thanks in advance
AnKi
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bernard
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« Reply #33 on: November 03, 2012, 09:19:42 PM »

others have done a similar mistake without harm. don't feed it 12v!!
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AnKi
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« Reply #34 on: November 03, 2012, 09:24:35 PM »

Hehe XD actually I feel lucky to know which color is yellow (?
Ok I will keep trying a bit more and report if fail or success

Thankyou Bernard!
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bernard
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« Reply #35 on: November 04, 2012, 02:10:11 AM »

find a multimeter and measure the mAmps (connected in series to the power line) monitor it to see if having the pen in proximity  boosts the mAmps. This would be an indication that it is alive.

often there are lines to gnd or vcc (3.3v) to turn on the wacom and/or the data transmission.

I assume you saw our wiki page on this subject. Can you provide me the details that you know about your boards?
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AnKi
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« Reply #36 on: November 17, 2012, 11:36:38 PM »

Ok here, these are the boards I have, The Digitizer Unit SU-029-A01 taken away from a Fujitsu Lifebook T4010, and SU-031-A02 from Toshiba Tecra M4

The SU-029-A01


and SU-031-A02


The resolution is higher, just copy the image's address and paste in a new tab.

Both have the same 14 Pin interface, so I tried the USB Interface from here http://forum.bongofish.co.uk/index.php?topic=1870.msg13784#msg13784
But nothing worked, Maybe these are the ones that have the "Serial Only" Interface, I've checked the boards from using normally with their respective machines on Device Manager from windows and both said Serial Interface. I had the hope of being able to connect them via usb, I have serial port on my pc anyway, but no much serial cables as usb cables for testing, I will keep on contact if something else comes up.
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bernard
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« Reply #37 on: December 29, 2012, 12:18:46 AM »

serial: these signals are CMOS (TTL but 3.3volts) so you need an adapter for sure.
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sanzoghenzo
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« Reply #38 on: December 31, 2012, 11:02:55 AM »

Hey there,
can you please help me to clarify some aspects of this board? I started a new topic since I have also other questions unrelated to this digitizer:
http://forum.bongofish.co.uk/index.php?topic=2239.0

Thanks for your attention!
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bernard
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« Reply #39 on: December 31, 2012, 07:29:28 PM »

What aspect(s) do you want clarification on?  Your question is clear as mud.  Cool
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sanzoghenzo
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« Reply #40 on: January 05, 2013, 08:28:07 PM »

Thanks again bernard, now I think I got everything I need to start.
Well, I miss only the board!
I can only find stocks of 36 or 50(!) SU-13W02E-03A.

Do you have a spare one to sell me?  Cheesy

Another question: what driver do you use?
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sholland91
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« Reply #41 on: February 06, 2013, 04:33:30 PM »

Hey, I stumbled across this thread while researching the same digitizing unit (SU-13W02E-03A).
I would like to be able to connect this digitizer over USB to a Laptop and have it recognize a pen. I have 3 digitizers and 2 of the cables mentioned above. Based on what I've gathered here, I have tried to make a USB cable using a 3.3V regulator and connected the pins in the following order:

pin 1 - ground
pin 3 - USB D+
pin 4 - USB D-
pin 13 - 3.3V from regulator (5v in from USB)
pin 15 - ground

Is this correct? When I plugged it into my Windows 8 laptop, it was recognized as a pointing device. When plugged into a Windows 7 device, it installed drivers. This leads me to believe everything is working. So the next step is the pen...

As far as I can understand, there are a range of pens that work with this digitizer, but the ones for the new Wacom boards (Bamboo Intuos etc) do not work due to changes in the frequency used to communicate. That means that the intuos 1 or UD pens work?

Thanks for the help, sorry to restate a bunch of information. I'm trying to sort everything out

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bernard
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« Reply #42 on: February 07, 2013, 05:04:14 AM »

All the "Penenabled" (most tablet PCs and even recent mobile devices like the samsung note. If they have a wacom digitizer inside, then it is compatible).  UD (Ultrapad/ultrapen) pens are also compatible.  This also includes the Axiotron pens (although they are now difficult to find -- they used to be cheap + available with eraser and dual side switch).   Intuos, Bamboo, Graphire are a different beast (digital) and will never work.

Sometimes it is cheaper to get a used/cheap wacom tablet that has a compatible pen.
« Last Edit: February 07, 2013, 03:20:30 PM by bernard » Logged
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« Reply #43 on: June 28, 2013, 01:35:07 AM »

Hey,

I bought a SU-14W07-01X digitizer (and corresponding pen) off of eBay from a Gateway TA7 E295 laptop, in the hopes of making it interface with USB. I've hooked it up to a USB cable with a LM317 regulator that gives off 3.41 volts.

The pins were connected as follows:

Pin 1: GND
Pin 2: GND
Pin 3: USB D-
Pin 4: USB D+
Pin 11: 3.3V
Pin 13: 3.3V
Pin 14: GND

As according to the wiki pages.

When I plugged it in, absolutely nothing happened. No "ba-dunk" sound from Windows 7 that signified a device being recognized. Installing various flavors of Wacom drivers didn't do anything either. To make sure the digitizer was still live, I hooked an ammeter in series to the USB power line. I got 4 mA of draw when turned on, but it didn't change when I brought the pen near and far.


Can anyone help with this? I'm not even sure if this board is alive now, but I've been extremely delicate with it. How do I test whether the board is USB or serial?

Is it the 3.4 V supply vs 3.3 V?

If this board ends up being serial, how do I interface that? I've seen hints on the forums that there may be a way to switch a board between USB and serial modes, as this board is shown on wacom-components.com that it supports both UART and USB.
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bernard
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« Reply #44 on: June 28, 2013, 03:50:43 AM »

I do not have that model listed. If you have more information about it, we could add it to the grid.

We have no clue as to how to "switch" from USB to serial. It's been a big mystery. I suspect the board is hardwired for a certain mode, since it appears to be ordered as a OEM part for a specific usage. That is why there are so many different models out there (like tons).  For example, none of the board we found had the big ZDx part installed (which we think would mean a 5V supply).   

Between 3.41v and 3.3v I would bet it is okay. Well close enough.  The voltage level is still in that range when powered?

4ma appears on bit on the low, but it could be normal if idling. If bringing a pen does not do anything to the mAmps then that is not a good sign that it is currently "turned on".

Even if it was serial, it should have done something to the mAmps.

Do not connect the USB lines at all. Just play with the power alone.  You could try to only power pin13 (not pin11). You can also try to ground other pins (at random).  Always keep your amp meter and watch for activity (or surge!!).  There might be an "enable" pin in there.  Always check for heat coming out of ICs. They blow fast.


B.
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