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Author Topic: K-Jintiq, a 15" IPS modded into Intuos 3 A4  (Read 63236 times)
Kareltje
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« Reply #15 on: December 22, 2010, 11:32:42 AM »

Yes it worked right away after programming.

I almost got the exact same response. "No clue why it doesn't work" "Never seen this problem before" "Need to consult engineer"
After some e-mails requesting more information on when the engineers will figure out the problem NYJTouch did offer me to send a new controller for free with according to them a correct program, but that was after I already ordered the programmer....
They said that they were in the middle of a move and it was difficult to consult people and overall a busy period.

The program we used didn't match the exact type of the panel but it did work. We chose one with the same resolution and brand of the panel and it worked. If the L2 / C only indicate a change in version of the panel and not any change in resolution it will probably work.
I had a quick look on the cd for the programs that are closest to your type so maybe that will help you in your choice.

No idea where you are located but if you happen to live in The Netherlands I'm happy to help you in getting the controller to work.

Code:
./R.RT6X51/6251&6451_090317_5KEY/ITSX95_DO6L_1400X1050_5KEY_RT6251.gff
./R.RT6X51/6251&6451_090317_7KEY/ITSX95_DO6L_1400X1050_7KEY_RT6251.gff
./RM3X51/RM3X51_5KEY_NA/ITSX95L2_DO6L_1400X1050_5KEY_NA_RM3X51.gff
./RM3X51/RM3X51_7KEY_NA/ITSX95L2_DO6L_1400X1050_7KEY_NA_RM3X51.gff


« Last Edit: December 22, 2010, 11:36:29 AM by Kareltje » Logged
chasent
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« Reply #16 on: December 23, 2010, 11:02:07 AM »

I live in New Zealand, but paying for the postage of my controller to and from you would be far cheaper than buying a new controller. If you get it working, you will be my new personal hero  Wink
Could you please attach/upload one of those .gff files? I'm curious as to what is in them.
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Hieron
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« Reply #17 on: December 23, 2010, 12:39:28 PM »

lol at NZ, there's no place further from NL more or less Smiley   Would it be much cheaper to send it, really? I thought these controllers were supercheap..
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Kareltje
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« Reply #18 on: December 23, 2010, 04:48:08 PM »

I live in New Zealand, but paying for the postage of my controller to and from you would be far cheaper than buying a new controller. If you get it working, you will be my new personal hero  Wink
Could you please attach/upload one of those .gff files? I'm curious as to what is in them.

Hmm doubt it that it would be any cheaper than buying a controller.  Not really sure what the shipping is but the controller at ebay is cheaper, especially since you can probably get them to send you one for free after some e-mails. They offered the same to me but I already ordered a programmer. Just tell them explicitly which file you want programmed.

I can't  attach the file (not an image) but it is a binary which doesn't really have any useful information in it.
 Send me a PM with your e-mail adress and I can mail you the file only 128kb
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Hieron
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« Reply #19 on: January 03, 2011, 03:36:20 PM »

update: built the entire thing together: too much jitter.

The LCD controller is giving too much RF noise I reckon. Placing it a bit away from the Wacom is rather fine, moving it to the back of the wacom = massive issues. The nice groundplane in the back of the Wacom does a decent job of shielding it (without it, it doesn't work at all) but can't cope with all of it. Grounding the Wacom and the LCD together doesn't help, changing the frequency of the screen doesn't either.

It's a shielding issue so I ordered a RF shielded box to hold the electronics and function as a Faraday Cage of sorts (grounded as well). Will see how it goes and post the result.

The stripped and painted Wacom does look great though. However:  black painted cover means it shows smudges and fingerprints reallllly fast. I guess that's why the glossy Wacom covers are grey. Next time I would not paint it black, but metallic grey like Wacom. Less fancy on a photo though.
« Last Edit: January 03, 2011, 03:37:53 PM by Hieron » Logged
bernard
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« Reply #20 on: January 03, 2011, 04:32:45 PM »

faraday cages are nice for RF -- but not as good for magnetic fields. If the controller has coils (typical of the inverter circuits) then you might need to find a way to shield that as well. Magnetic shield are strange beasts, you cannot block them, you can only "push them away". Look at the shape of the shield in one of the last picture here: http://wacom-components.com/technologies/EMRpen/
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chasent
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« Reply #21 on: January 04, 2011, 07:58:16 AM »

Back from holiday,
The quote I got for shipping that controller was NZ$8 each way (without the cables and etc, its very small!), which is much less than NZ$80 for the programmer. I'll send NJYTouch some emails, hopefully they will offer me something even after 5 months.

Also, with that jitter, have you tried covering the controller in aluminium foil + cling wrap? Many people here have tried it, but I'm not sure if it works as usually their problem was with the panel itself creating interference.
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Hieron
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« Reply #22 on: January 04, 2011, 11:31:37 AM »

The panel itself may generate some, minor, interference. If I place the controller and inverter away from the sensorboard, there is some residual jitter left. Really minor though.

Wrapping in aluminium foil and wrap can be done I guess, but it needs to be grounded. Without grounding it helps little and may give other issues. I haven't tried that yet since I am waiting for a really nice anti RF box anyway which is superior to that.

With regards to shielding versus magnetic fields:
My lab at the university just threw out a big amount of mu-metal

"So mu-metal shields are often made of several enclosures one inside the other, each of which successively reduces the field inside it. RF magnetic fields above about 100 kHz can be shielded by Faraday shields, ordinary conductive metal sheets or screens which are used to shield against electric fields."
(http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mu-metal)

Which I recovered and can use. I'll test to see if it helps as well. Ofcourse, none of this would reduce possible jitter due to the panel itself.
« Last Edit: January 04, 2011, 02:57:49 PM by Hieron » Logged
bernard
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« Reply #23 on: January 05, 2011, 02:27:41 AM »

Did you say "throw away a big amount of mu-metal" ?!   Yes, mu-metal is the well recognized material with a high permeability (althought lot of other material is available, mu-metal is the one that is the most popular).

If I was near that lab, I would take a big load of that stuff.
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Hieron
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« Reply #24 on: January 05, 2011, 12:00:04 PM »

Hehe, well it's about a square meter I think, the other part I have seems to me to be a Niobium shield. Which does nothing really if it isn't cooled afaik. A square meter is alot to me.. I'm used to using really small amounts of it...

If the RF box comes in, I'll try to do some tests and see if it is even usefull to add mu-metal shield then. It's not that expensive...
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Hieron
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« Reply #25 on: January 18, 2011, 05:52:33 PM »

update on RF box:

Saw a nice one after looking around, asked for a sample on UK website (didn't find dutch supplier). Called after a while, was forwarded to Italian mother company, called them after a while then forwarded to dutch retailer. Called them after a few days, out of stock, need to order a new batch from ita, may take a bit.

Went to local shop and just bought 2 small metal boxes that may work. Nope, too small for the controller.

One does need a fair bit of patience.
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bernard
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« Reply #26 on: January 18, 2011, 06:32:05 PM »

Ordering one (1) RF box is... well... far from being a common thing one would do.

Quote
One does need a fair bit of patience.
    Grin
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Drucifer74
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« Reply #27 on: January 23, 2011, 03:20:48 AM »

Guys, I bought a controller for my 15 inch laptop monitor from NJYtouch as well. It's the exact same size and resolution. Are you saying that the controller isn't programmed to work when it arrives? (they said it will be here in a while, like 2 weeks at least)

if so, how do I program it? Or do I have to wait ANOTHER 20 days on the programmer device? Confused.

Drucifer.
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bernard
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« Reply #28 on: January 23, 2011, 05:03:05 AM »

When you order, you have to tell exactly which LCD Panel this is supposed to be hooked to so they can program it.  No, you cannot program it yourself (unless they sell you a programmer -- not all LVDS vendors sell this).

It is supposed to work right away.
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Drucifer74
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« Reply #29 on: January 23, 2011, 05:35:34 AM »

okay, phew, I was able to give them the exact model number so I will hope for the best. If mine won't work for me, I will switch it to another member stateside.
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