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Author Topic: JS-Cintiq  (Read 12365 times)
jsloss
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« on: February 17, 2011, 12:53:56 AM »

Hey all,

So I'm already up and going with this project, but I figured I'd come and post the results so far here since this is where I get most of my info on the process.

So to start:

Intuos 3 9x12 - used / ebay / $275
Controller - njytouch / Compatible R.RM5251 LCD Controller Board Kit with DVI / $30 + $10 power adapter
LCD Screen - 15" / LP150E02 (A2) (P1) / $50

That's where the build actually started. I had purchased the wrong size screen on accident (15.4") and the controller was programmed at that resolution. My friend and I (both building one) are awaiting our programmer from njytouch to fix the resolution issue. The monitor is repeating the background currently.

First things first. Stripping the tablet down. This was a fairly easy task once I figured out it was all taped together. From there it was just carefully breaking that bond and taking the thing apart so I could get ready to strip the top plastic clear.

Stripping the plastic was a pain and is still causing us issues. We tried following the "paint stripping guide" someone posted and had zero luck with the thinner. I had some aircraft stripper lying around and we tried that on a spot just to see what would happen. It melts the paint right off, but softens up the plastic so much that it would ruin it on a large scale. So we tried a citrus degreaser of sorts which did nothing. Then we moved onto citristrip. We tested it in home depot before we bought it and got great results. Then once we used it things didn't go so well. It takes the paint off really easily. Three passes and it is all gone. The problem is the product leaves a film left on the plastic. It disappears when wet, but when it dries it comes back. After trying more oven cleaner, degreasers, thinner, etc. we finally made some progress with rubbing alcohol (91%). With some hard scrubbing with a towel it removed a lot of what was left. It still could use a good polish to be a lot clearer, but the backlight from the LCD makes it less noticeable currently. We will be working on making it perfect later and if all else fails we'll just laser cut and form a new one ourselves (we are at a university with a rapid prototyping lab that we have access to through our program).



Today we stripped down the LCD for the first time. It was fairly easy. I forgot to take pictures, but two screws held on the metal trim. The rest was just adhesive. Pulling all the tape off was easy and from there everything was fine. I unfolded the board and laid it flat in front of the lcd. We applied some packing tape to make sure those contacts don't break. Then I cut the grey board that houses the buttons. We just used a bandsaw and it was easy.

I did an early mock-up and test. Success.



Results: Zero jitter or interference. It works perfectly. I guess we got lucky.

What's left:

We are still waiting on this programmer. Once it arrives setting the LCDs to the right resolution will be easy hopefully. That is the last big hurdle. From there I'll finish making the little cuts for the cables to run out of the Intuos casing around underneath. I'll build a little box to attach to the underside to house the controller, etc. I'll paint the plastic where it's doesn't need to be clear and double stick tape the whole thing together. In the future I might build a little stand. For now it remains as is, just waiting for things to arrive.

I'm open to suggestions on how to clean that plastic better.

**having issues posting pictures**
***sorry about the poll, I saw no other options***
« Last Edit: February 17, 2011, 01:02:39 AM by jsloss » Logged
bernard
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« Reply #1 on: February 17, 2011, 03:51:15 AM »

Fantastic!   and welcome to bongofish to you and your friend!

Does your friend have the same parts? (intuos3, LP150E02 A2)

Is your screen upside down?

Forum notes:
1- you have to reply once to be eligible to create a new thread (an anti-spam measure). So many people fails to see this information unfortunately. :S
2- What is your issue posting pictures? I often post pictures myself and have not encountered a problem in a long while -- are your pictures very large?

plastic is dull ?  hum. maybe the stuff they sell to remove scratches from CDs? Just a wild guess.  What about buffing it? (like you do with acrylic?) In your super-prototyping university lab, they must have something like that or maybe ideas -- bring them the plastic piece.
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jsloss
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« Reply #2 on: February 17, 2011, 07:15:44 AM »

Fantastic!   and welcome to bongofish to you and your friend!

Does your friend have the same parts? (intuos3, LP150E02 A2)

Is your screen upside down?

Forum notes:
1- you have to reply once to be eligible to create a new thread (an anti-spam measure). So many people fails to see this information unfortunately. :S
2- What is your issue posting pictures? I often post pictures myself and have not encountered a problem in a long while -- are your pictures very large?

plastic is dull ?  hum. maybe the stuff they sell to remove scratches from CDs? Just a wild guess.  What about buffing it? (like you do with acrylic?) In your super-prototyping university lab, they must have something like that or maybe ideas -- bring them the plastic piece.

My friend does have the same parts.

The screen is upside down. That's the way it fit best in the tablet. It's not a big deal to rotate the screen virtually. What the picture is showing is the dock on the bottom and the dock on the top (but really that's just the bottom of the screen repeated since the resolution is off).

The controller is set to 1440x900 but the 15" resolution should be 1440x1050. That's the issue currently with the screen.

As far as the forum goes, I figured that was the issue, I just couldn't locate the information. I got the pictures to post. I think the attached images were to large so I just hosted them on my flickr and linked them here.

The dull plastic we will try to buff out. Might go to an auto store and look for some headlight cleaner or something of that nature. It doesn't cause too many issues as is, but I'd like it to be cleaner if possible. I'll end up consulting with the lab a little. We talked previous about the possibility of creating a new top if everything went wrong with the current one. I'll post more details on that process when I finish it and update the status on the programmer.

We ordered it from njytouch, but didn't do it through an auction. We just emailed them and they said to just send a paypal amount and they'll send a part. I did the same thing with my power converter and had no issues. The problem with the programer is they sent it to New York. We aren't sure why, we live in Ohio, but hopefully they will correct it. The package was sent back to sender after the almost month we've been waiting for this thing.
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Kareltje
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« Reply #3 on: February 17, 2011, 09:51:40 AM »

Somehow this sounds familiar Tongue

Too bad the screen is so dull.
I do not want to scare you but we had the exact same setup as you have now and no jitter at all but as soon we all put it inside the wacom the jitter hit the fan so to speak.

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Hieron
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« Reply #4 on: February 17, 2011, 02:36:43 PM »

Vaguely familiar indeed. Not sure where I saw these parts before Tongue The only thing missing is the Teko boxes Smiley

No clue why my paint stripping guide didn't work for you guys. Thinner worked great for us and for instance Wei... Matter of patience perhaps? Sure didn't come off flying..
« Last Edit: February 17, 2011, 04:15:30 PM by Hieron » Logged
jsloss
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« Reply #5 on: February 17, 2011, 05:21:36 PM »

Somehow this sounds familiar Tongue

Too bad the screen is so dull.
I do not want to scare you but we had the exact same setup as you have now and no jitter at all but as soon we all put it inside the wacom the jitter hit the fan so to speak.



Well that picture is everything inside the wacom, I wouldn't set it up any other way in the final build. I guess you might not be able to see it clearly, and I have other pictures with the buttons back in, but the top is on, the controller is right underneath the it where I would place it in the final build. I hope I don't magically get jitter unless changing the resolution messes things up. I haven't messed with the screen settings that much to get better brightness and contrast out of it. It's not the greatest screen though.

As far as paint stripping. We tried a couple different thinners and it wouldn't even turn the rag black no matter how much we scrubbed the thing. The oven cleaner did it's job perfectly, we just got no luck from thinners.
« Last Edit: February 17, 2011, 05:42:32 PM by jsloss » Logged
Hieron
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« Reply #6 on: February 17, 2011, 06:55:22 PM »

hmm.. Malaysian and Dutch "thinner" turned out to be the same... perhaps it's used on different liquids as well at your country.

Not sure about the jitter.. you are right about it being on top of eachother, but since you use 1:1 the same parts as we did I'd assume that the jitter will increase when the correct resolution is programmed in. I don't see "luck" playing much part in this if all parameters are the same. (then again, who knows...)

Not sure why you wouldn't be happy with the screen? I work with semi pro IPS screens all day which surely are better, but the 1 CCFL (no real heat) IPS 1400x1050 combo for 50$ seems like a sweet deal to me..
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jsloss
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« Reply #7 on: February 17, 2011, 07:32:29 PM »

hmm.. Malaysian and Dutch "thinner" turned out to be the same... perhaps it's used on different liquids as well at your country.

Not sure about the jitter.. you are right about it being on top of eachother, but since you use 1:1 the same parts as we did I'd assume that the jitter will increase when the correct resolution is programmed in. I don't see "luck" playing much part in this if all parameters are the same. (then again, who knows...)

Not sure why you wouldn't be happy with the screen? I work with semi pro IPS screens all day which surely are better, but the 1 CCFL (no real heat) IPS 1400x1050 combo for 50$ seems like a sweet deal to me..

Yeah, I imagine not all thinners are the same even though we tried a couple different ones. That's interesting that the resolution would cause the jitter (if it does). The LCD is running at 1440x900 now at 60Hz, even when I tried to force into 1440x1050 it didn't really cause any issues. I hope that doesn't change, but I'll look out for it and when we reprogram I'll be sure to update the status of that.

I'm happy with the LCD for the price. It could be better, but it's definitely the right price / value ratio for this project.
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Hieron
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« Reply #8 on: February 18, 2011, 01:44:42 AM »

No clue if the resolution is the actual reason for the jitter..  perhaps I didn't wear my tin foil hat Smiley
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bernard
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« Reply #9 on: February 18, 2011, 04:52:29 AM »

 Cheesy
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jsloss
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« Reply #10 on: February 18, 2011, 07:12:50 PM »



Here's what will end up being my final assembly. I made holes for the cables to run out of the current Wacom housing. It's snug in their for sure. I haven't decided if I'll add a small space to further protect the LCD. Paint will come in the near future after we try one more attempt to clear up the plastic. Programmer should be here in a weeks time. We got it expressed shipped to us after njytouch sent it to New York, which eventually wasn't claimed and sent back to China. $12each. to get it here rush order was will be worth it.



The underside of the monster. I taped everything up in mockup. We are debating how to construct the final housing for all that stuff. Could just be some simple boxes, might be something more elaborate like a vacuum-formed under box. Maybe even a stand. That will be worked out last. As is set up, no issues, so I can only hope for the best from here on out.
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jsloss
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« Reply #11 on: February 20, 2011, 10:54:30 PM »

We made a somewhat final attempt to clean up the plastic covers that were left with a weird film by the Citristrip. I went to an AutoZone and bought some headlight cleaner. It clears up plastics, restores clear plastics back to a clean state. I also bought some of those wax applicators. I first worked at the film with some Isopropyl alcohol which had some effect, but this PlastX cleaner cleared everything up. Here's the stuff that pretty much did the whole job and a finished result (look at previous post for comparison)



With some paint. Not sure why we chose white, but it looks good.


« Last Edit: February 20, 2011, 11:03:24 PM by jsloss » Logged
jsloss
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« Reply #12 on: March 01, 2011, 12:41:13 AM »

We got the programmer. Reprogramming the screens was quick and easy. It didn't create any new jitter. There is some slight jitter at the top and bottom of the screen, put everything in the middle is perfect.

I sent some materials into our RPC to get laser cut. I'm getting acrylic cut for the underbox to hold the controller, etc. I got some wood being cut to create the slight (>.125") gap between the screen and the plastic drawing surface just so I'm not putting pressure directly on the LCD. The laser cut stuff should be done tomorrow or so and I should get a near final build by then. By the end of the week I plan on being completely finished.

I'll post some pictures when I get some time and have some more finished pieces.
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Demontiq
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« Reply #13 on: April 17, 2011, 06:38:02 PM »

hey, looking good!
im planning on buying an intuos 3, what kind did you get? (the older one with the square wacom logo:
http://www.refreshingcontent.com/index_files/wacom%20intuos3.jpg
or the one with the newer wacom logo:
http://www.k3.dion.ne.jp/~alfagt/LOVELOG_IMG/Wacom-Intuos3.jpg
Regards
Demontiq
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admarioo
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« Reply #14 on: December 27, 2011, 01:20:08 PM »

hello. can someone tell me is LP150E02 (A2) (P1) lcd panel is also IPS? i try to find some spec but i cant find out is this panel is IPS or not. thanks
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