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Author Topic: Intous 2 A4 build advice needed (WORKS YAY)  (Read 15205 times)
bernard
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« Reply #30 on: July 15, 2011, 08:15:11 PM »

So far, you are not been very lucky I must say. These builds can get quite hard.  Tongue

Good analysis. The black and white color thing says a lot.

What is the technology of the LCD? is it a TN, IPS ?  What is the LCD model?

Can you try putting a little bit more space between the sensor and the LCD (sandwich). Try a lot even if barely workable, just to see if the jitter is being affected by this in a way we would understand what is going on?

If you have one side with white and the other side with black you see jitter only on top of the white or is it still generalized. (try up/down and left/right).  (Just trying random things here in case an idea sparks my mind).  If you move (offset) the LCD does the jitter only happens where there is no board? 
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janm
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« Reply #31 on: July 15, 2011, 08:24:57 PM »


I will try and do what you suggest tomorrow. Unfortunatly i've run out of time today.

The screen is

IDTech IPS 1600x1200 15" model number I will try and find model number out.

Jan

Edit the jitter becomes more when i level of white increases on screen, irrespective of position.
I think the more white that needs to be drawn more sigal is sent trough into the panel and this jitter increases.

« Last Edit: July 15, 2011, 08:27:53 PM by janm » Logged
bernard
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« Reply #32 on: July 15, 2011, 09:53:13 PM »

Irrespective of position, hum, that's interesting. Is this panel from a monitor?  Or is this using NYJtouch controller?   

Do we see the LVDS cable clearly (the cable going into the LCD Panel)?  Each LVDS signal normally uses 2 wires (it is a "balanced" signal (+/-)).  But I saw some cables  that appear to only have one LVDS wire per signal. Which I "think" is "valid" electrically. Just not as good against EMI. AND probably emits much more EMI too. I assume you have foil around that cable, right? (I did not scrutinized your picture very much yet).

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janm
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« Reply #33 on: July 15, 2011, 10:36:45 PM »



Hi,

Its a laptop screen with NYTouch contoller.

Yes the cable is bare, going to the lcd, I will put foil around it Smiley

Also the FFC is not all covered, I will put foil around that too.

Jan
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janm
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« Reply #34 on: July 16, 2011, 01:20:25 AM »



Ok tried alterring the spacings and ended up no singal to weak signal but no difference to jitter.

Sheided the FFC and the cable from the lcd driver to lcd and now i get small amount of jitter from 6cm from left edge of screen. But within
the first 6cm jitter is same.

So now i can use the right 70 percent of screen with little jitter. 

Improvement but still quite a bit off where i want to be.


Jan
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bernard
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« Reply #35 on: July 16, 2011, 01:28:57 AM »

have you tried flipping the LCD upside down?    Maybe where some of the control logic is mixing up the other board control logic?
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janm
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« Reply #36 on: July 16, 2011, 02:31:35 AM »


I have been thinking about doing this but am going to make this my last resort.

It will involve a lot of work, modifying the case i have made, extending cables and other things.

I have modifyed the screen brightness/contrast controls on the nytouch controller. This improved jitter a tiny bit.

I have also tryed working with 50% grey background on my sketches and this makes it managable for the time being.

I might try to get some lead tape to sheild the left side where the lcds ffc is and the wacom chips are located.
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bernard
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« Reply #37 on: July 16, 2011, 03:23:15 AM »

flipping it around was only for testing purposes -- (just stack them).  I know it involves touching those fragile ribbons. You've been bitten once.

All cables should be shielded + grounded.  Always ground in a star fashion to give the ground a single path "out" (no loop to trap it).  This is including the CCFL cable (it did act as an antenna for somebody and solved his jitter problem).  RF and magnetic flux is soooo unbelievably strange.
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janm
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« Reply #38 on: July 16, 2011, 02:19:31 PM »

Hi just flipped it around and all its done is flip the jitter but also added some verticle jitter to the rest of the screen.
So its ended up worse then before.

Jan
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janm
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« Reply #39 on: July 17, 2011, 01:08:26 AM »



HI,

You were right powerstrip might have not been functioning properly. Even though screen was going on and off when adjusting refresh rate it was'nt actually adjusting them.
Must still be conflicting with something on my system.

I found a way to adjust refresh rates in nvidia settings in the control panel. 50Hz gives quite good results.

For future reference this screen works Smiley     its model number is
IDtech 1600 x 1200 IPS #N150U3

Now need a screen toggle utility for the intuos2... 
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bernard
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« Reply #40 on: July 17, 2011, 02:46:34 AM »

Is it the same as a  "Chi Mei N150U3-L01" ?
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janm
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« Reply #41 on: July 17, 2011, 10:49:18 AM »

Hi sorry i don't know if they are the same
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bernard
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« Reply #42 on: July 17, 2011, 01:00:13 PM »

I guess my question was:  Normally on the LCD Panel back there is a sticker with the brand and number. You reported what was written there? It just looked a bit "short" for a LCD Panel number.
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janm
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« Reply #43 on: July 17, 2011, 01:04:28 PM »



Yes the model is N150U3-L01 did'nt think the last bit was important.
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Drewid
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« Reply #44 on: July 28, 2011, 01:31:30 PM »

Shall I move this into build logs?  Grin
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