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Author Topic: Converting Wacom UD-0608-R from Serial to USB  (Read 21661 times)
ArtC
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« Reply #15 on: June 26, 2011, 03:21:21 AM »

So Bernard I am just at the stage where I test the power connetion, no smoke but the light on my wacom is not lighting up
I may have messed up the connections on the Teensy I had a very hard time attaching the ground to the teensy itself, but i thought.......shoot I dont know maybe the ground is in the wrong spot but then i htought I wouldf get smoke...lol or something else I think i may know what happened I may have messe up a transistor on the wacom board where the MC145406 is I tried to solder into what I thought was a pad  I hope you tell me I did not screw up cause Iif I didnt then I think I may just need a new Teensy instead of xperimenting with another one of my tablets


* Solder Ground.jpg (249.65 KB, 1024x1266 - viewed 509 times.)
« Last Edit: June 26, 2011, 03:48:57 AM by ArtC » Logged
bernard
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« Reply #16 on: June 26, 2011, 05:22:47 AM »

I do not have this board in my hands, so I do not know about this location. My little finger tells me it might be fine since it is probably a part for the MC145406 which we will remove later one anyways.

You have problem soldering a wire in the big holes on the teensy?  It is quite easy I find(?)  Wrong hole on the Teensy? For ground, look for one of the hole labelled "GND".  Can't miss it!  I did a little diagram with colors of the Teensy in the UD-1212-R thread.  Look for it to find the good holes.

The power (VCC on Teensy) goes to the 5V Voltage Regulator  TA7805F (IC102) -- It is a little square device with 2 legs.   The leg is actually right under the letter "r" of the word "Soldered" in your last photo!

The ground (GND on Teensy) goes anywhere you have a ground plane -- (anywhere that connects to TP106 I think).  You could even solder the GND to the voltage regulator TA7805F (IC102) "back" connection.  It's on the "right" of the package -- I mean it is not the legs, but on the other side, where there is a big piece of metal there. In your picture, it is very close to the "I" AFTER the word "soldered" (last in the first line).

So first thing:  Get a GND and VCC soldered to the voltage regulator.  Connect the teensy and see if you see the led lit. Do not leave it plugged too long if not working, unplug quickly.  If there is a short, your PC will reboot.  Take a picture of the work.

One thing you could try is to simply connect the teensy and measure the DC Voltage between GND and VCC -- you should read 5V.  Also use the continuity tester to check on the soldering before powering it up.  The GND should connect any of the little holes of the ground "plane" as well as TP106.

EDIT: I just tried soldering a ground (on another board, a GD-0912-R) to that voltage regulator without luck!  It was far easier to find another spot on the board -- It was one of the pin on the white connector.

http://forum.bongofish.co.uk/index.php?topic=1927.0
« Last Edit: June 27, 2011, 06:33:37 AM by bernard » Logged
ArtC
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« Reply #17 on: June 27, 2011, 06:35:27 AM »

well it looks like i messed up the teensy there is not 5v coming from the teensy and what happened was my first solder connection of the power went beautifully then the grnd is what gave me a problem and when i messed the ground up too much pressure was put on the power and it broke thus i ended up burning the board trying to fix it now i think i am really screwed cause i dunno how to get the other solder joints off without messing up the board........ sad panda      Embarrassed
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bernard
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« Reply #18 on: June 27, 2011, 02:19:09 PM »

To take off solder (if you made a bridge) you could try to use a "solder wick-style" technique (if you do not have a wick). Put clean/bare wire(s) on top of the soldering and heat. A little bit of solder should stick to the wire. Move the wire a little bit further, eventually all solder will be on the wire and none on the board. Takes time, but it should work.  I have a pump to do this type of stuff. 

A wick is just lots of small wires meshed together. A bunch of tiny wires is the best for this -- sometimes you can get those from multi-stranded wires. (like for speaker wire or lots of other flexible electrical wires).
« Last Edit: June 27, 2011, 04:01:50 PM by bernard » Logged
bernard
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« Reply #19 on: June 27, 2011, 03:52:27 PM »

"burn the board"? How do you know it is burnt?  This is because you see no 5V coming out?  Is the tablet still connected?  

 Can you post a picture?

The AVR chip (which is about the only thing on the Teensy) can be surprisingly lenient. (of course it can be burnt like anything, but still).

So the next step is to check that the Teensy is really burnt. Disconnect/cut all wires going to the tablet. Remove all solder bridges, inspect carefully the board, clean it up.  Use your multimeter to check that there is no solder bridge or anything that might look suspicious.

Now, try to power it and quickly check if you get a 5V reading.  Also check if the Teensy is seen by windows. (device manager or a USB tool like usbview or usb trace, etc.).  Of course if you suspect anything weird, disconnect quickly.
« Last Edit: June 27, 2011, 05:10:58 PM by bernard » Logged
ArtC
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« Reply #20 on: June 27, 2011, 07:14:38 PM »

I will get a picture up for you the only thing I burnt were the holes where the voltage and ground are the board itself is fine but now I have no where to get my voltage for the wacom from
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bernard
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« Reply #21 on: June 27, 2011, 08:17:43 PM »

On the Teensy, there are two GND holes and two VCC holes -- you destroyed both?  Shocked

You can get the 5V from the big pad in the back near where it says "5V" and also the "middle" one. Also there's an even bigger pad next to it, where the 3.3v voltage regulator would normally go).  Just look at the trace to know which one I am talking about. Also you can use the multimeter (continuity test I mean) to be sure.  You can also hook directly to the USB wire 5V -- it is all connected.  There are other spots on the board (Like there are 5 1uf capacitor connected to VCC, but these are tiny and then you run the risk of unsoldering them).

Teensy Schematics:
http://pjrc.com/teensy/schematic.html

Trick to solder to a pad:  

1- Fill the pad with solder. (no wire here, just the pad alone)
2- Put solder on the wire. (separately)
3- Then hold the wire on the pad and just apply heat.

This will essentially "re-heat" the solder and make one big solder blob. Jobs done!

If your iron is very hot, it will eventually lift the pads. So if this is your case, do not leave the iron for "too long". I know this is pretty vague timing description, but I have nothing better to say. Smiley The trick above will help on that regard, it should be quick.

Another trick:  Often the pads (or wire) are not accepting the solder right away and/or it appears to be difficult to transfer the heat to the pad/wire. Flux would be the answer for this, but I suppose you do not have a bottle of flux around. One way to transfer "heat" is to use solder itself (since it is in a liquid form) -- and always use "fresh" solder since it contains a bit of flux in its core (flux eventually goes away after heating).  So put new solder on the iron and touch the pad with the solder to make a better contact than your "solid" iron.  DISCLAIMER: everybody will tell you to heat the metal not the solder. But this is a case where the metal or the iron is not making good contact and we just want to jumpstart the soldering and make a better heat transfer. Once you did that once to the metal it becomes "easier" to solder.

Another thing: Also it is good if you can have a wet soft "pad" (like a sponge) where you can cleanup your iron tip. The water will avoid the burning of the pad/sponge (do not hold with your fingers!).
« Last Edit: June 27, 2011, 08:49:29 PM by bernard » Logged
ArtC
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« Reply #22 on: June 28, 2011, 04:16:50 AM »

Sweet!! I only messed up one set of power and gnd the ones at the very bottom of the board by the reset button i think! That is such good news I am going to get her fixe then YAY thank you for telling me that! Woot!!
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louiscar
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« Reply #23 on: January 11, 2012, 10:56:32 PM »

Hi Artc,

I had a lot more questions before I re-read this whole thread and figured I can follow the ud1212-R one. However, (if you are still tuned in, how did you fare on this build and did you take any photos of the final result? I have the same board and I am getting fired up about doing mine. Smiley
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teachP
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« Reply #24 on: January 16, 2012, 08:55:36 PM »

Hi all,

I finished my own pad and here are the photo's:
From the outside:

* outside.JPG (65.64 KB. 640x480 - viewed 401 times.)


The wires:

* wires_right.JPG (148.58 KB. 640x480 - viewed 487 times.)


* wires_left.JPG (144.9 KB. 640x480 - viewed 491 times.)


And the placing of the teensy in the upperleft corner.
Note: wrap the teensy in plastic (not shown) to prevent shortcuts

* inside_placement.JPG (121.59 KB. 640x480 - viewed 451 times.)


I had to slice a little bit from the USB cable and removed some lips from the top cover. I also removed the serial connector to make room for the teensy.

To finish the mod, my template:
* UD-0608-R to Intuos2 12x18.tmpl.txt (9.84 KB - downloaded 345 times.)

* UD-0608-R to Intuos2 12x18.tmpl.txt (9.84 KB - downloaded 345 times.)
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bernard
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« Reply #25 on: December 04, 2012, 02:23:18 PM »

Looking back at the above wiring, I did not analyze it, but it seems it is re-using some other routes to bring the teensy signal. The teensy wires are soldered to big CheckPoints (CP) pads and then some pins are being bridged near the chip.  This sounds valid (especially if it works!!) Smiley I just want to say that this wiring is different than mine -- do not get confused by thinking it is the same.

Nice work!
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louiscar
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« Reply #26 on: December 04, 2012, 07:21:07 PM »

Yes, having looked at this a bit more it seems like he used pin 9 which is ground to ground pin 13 and for 15 he's found another point to ground it.

What was confusing me was the joining of 6 to 11 and 7 to 10 but then I realised that this was in order to pass those signals on to the pinouts for the serial socket which is kind of neat because that's where the Teensy is going to be situated anyway.
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louiscar
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« Reply #27 on: December 08, 2012, 03:06:31 PM »

Well I royally screwed up! All the pads on  one side came off. Murphy's law being what it is, it's on the wrong side. Not sure if I can recover from that.  Cry
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louiscar
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« Reply #28 on: December 09, 2012, 02:05:11 AM »

Well that was a horrifying experience. The soldering was a nightmare with my eyes and the size of those tracks. The soldering is not that good but I dare not touch those wires again, I had a devil of a job getting the solder on to those vias and I had to cut down the strands to 2 just to stop the solder going ott. I manage to scrape one of the tracks and get the blob of solder to ground the two pins that needed it.

Wired it up in the test config you see here, flashed the rom, (light doesn't blink but the hid listener showed pen working fine), loaded the drivers and bingo.

Some pics of the test setup.




I've found a neat way of modifying the case so the teensy will fit in under the board in the corner, the upside is it will allow me to plug the usb cable in without taking the board apart. I'll post some pics when I'm done.

A big thank you Bernard and everyone else that's posted their conversions .. so pleased to have my Wacom with a new lease of life. Cool

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louiscar
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« Reply #29 on: December 09, 2012, 04:09:20 AM »

Here are the final images. After removing some of the top lid's obstructions in that area I found that the bottom lid had a natural piece 'L' shaped plastic that just happens to butt right up to the back of the usb socket thus keeping it firmly in the corner. It did also make it necessary to completely remove the serial socket but that was easy enough/

There is no movement so I'm happy to leave it like this for the moment. I may just cover the exposed square with something but for now it seems pretty good



« Last Edit: December 09, 2012, 04:11:35 AM by louiscar » Logged
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