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Author Topic: 21.5' Cintuos [WIP]  (Read 57543 times)
Rik!
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« Reply #120 on: November 11, 2011, 11:24:15 PM »

You will see everything that is on or between the layers so keep it clean and dont touch the difuser with your bare hands like I did ...  the "points" on it are very very fragile and even if you don't see ani changes, you will see when the light is on. I touched it once, trying to clean the slick surface, now I can see were my fingers went... So watch out.
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janm
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« Reply #121 on: November 11, 2011, 11:33:57 PM »

  Too late i think i might have touched them Sad

I'm gonna try and assemble everything tomorrow...

Will let you know how it goes.

Jan
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bernard
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« Reply #122 on: November 12, 2011, 03:35:25 AM »

successful FFC "jumper" connectors:  Oh wow! This is just great!  are they easy to break?

An alternative to DIY Beamer: This is something I have been waiting for a long time.

We need to have a sticky for this. Would you be kind to create a new thread under "Tutorials and useful knowledge" on how to do this, I will stickify it.
« Last Edit: November 12, 2011, 03:38:15 AM by bernard » Logged
janm
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« Reply #123 on: November 12, 2011, 11:04:31 AM »



Bernard, the connectors look pretty solid and you can't bend them so I guess they're ok.

Tested with the multimeter and they give a nice signal. You just have to make sure
you get the solder to flow across both contacting pins properly.

Yes i will do a tutorial, but I think unless you're really good at soldering only 1mm pitch is possible...
0.5mm pitch would be too challenging.


Jan
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bernard
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« Reply #124 on: November 12, 2011, 04:52:38 PM »

Just add a warning for the fine pitch and difficulty level.  Some people (like you!) can do it so maybe others can also.

BTW, you do not need to make full-fledge "soldering" tutorial. It could be just talking about your experience doing it. You can also say that good soldering skills are required to do this. At minimum, just dump the information about the stuff you [creatively] found. (part numbers, special techniques you used, pitfalls you got into, you can just point to your the post in the other thread for people to read your past experience).  Just the idea alone is worth 85% of the tutorial I would say.  Smiley
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janm
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« Reply #125 on: November 13, 2011, 03:03:34 AM »

Damn I don't know if I broke the screen somehow...

What happened was first time I turn the screen on it worked, but some colours are were not right.

Then I unplug the LVDS cable and plug it back and now just multicoloured verticle lines...
I've tried unpluging and repluging the LVDS cable but still just verticle lines.

I have been exteemly careful with the screen, thats why its taken me to long to prepare everything etc...

Maybe the signal from my custom ffc's connectors are not strong enough?

or is my screen broke  Sad
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bernard
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« Reply #126 on: November 13, 2011, 04:01:30 AM »

Can you try to use the original FFC connection?
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janm
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« Reply #127 on: November 13, 2011, 05:54:19 PM »

Hi,


Well been trying everthing to see what the problem is and it turns out the screen is ok.

Its the craziest thing..  I wrapped and grounded my FFC's in aluminium tape and it turns out
this was causing major interference with the LVDS ffc singnal...

Me and my bright Idea's.... Roll Eyes

Jan
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Drewid
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« Reply #128 on: November 14, 2011, 02:42:45 PM »

soldering:  apply flux --- LOTS. (I use liquid flux and also the rosin pen). Flux will help avoiding bridging.  The idea is to solder a very, very little amount of soldering on each pad, barely enough to "paint" the pads. -- (do each side separately) -- then align carefully (with tape or whatever to hold it all) -- then simply apply heat. You want the touching pads to glue onto each other, that's all.  Test with a multimeter (probably you already did that).

If you have spare FFC parts try yourself on that before, try to find a technique that best fits you.

take pictures. Smiley



Also you can use desoldering braid to suck the solder from the gaps, similar to this:
http://store.curiousinventor.com/guides/Surface_Mount_Soldering/101/
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janm
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« Reply #129 on: November 14, 2011, 04:54:21 PM »

Yes I had to use the desoldribg brade a few times its indespensible

Jan
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janm
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« Reply #130 on: November 14, 2011, 06:24:39 PM »



Ok i've got a problem..

I cannot get the curser to follow the pen movements properly.
The screen is smaller in width and height compared with the tablet active area
and so  there is underun and overrun on the curser when I move from one
side of the screen to the other using the pen.

Not sure how to set it up in the wacom driver so the curser follows the pen exactly?

Until I can get this done I'm stuck...

Here's an pic of how far i've got so far.


Jan


* IMG_0231.jpg (68.9 KB, 1000x704 - viewed 436 times.)
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Ryanwc
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« Reply #131 on: November 15, 2011, 01:16:46 AM »



Ok i've got a problem..

I cannot get the curser to follow the pen movements properly.
The screen is smaller in width and height compared with the tablet active area
and so  there is underun and overrun on the curser when I move from one
side of the screen to the other using the pen.

Not sure how to set it up in the wacom driver so the curser follows the pen exactly?

Until I can get this done I'm stuck...

Here's an pic of how far i've got so far.


Jan

Yeah, I think the best way to get cursor alignment is to go into wacom tablet properties and under mapping--->tablet area: go to portion. You can manually enter in the dimensions for what works best, or you can click to define. But... I think part of your problem is the actual height difference from wacom sensor board to pen tip. The further from the wacom board, the less accurate it will be. And likewise, the closer your pen is to the actual board, the more accurate it becomes. This is in part because of how your eyes see in perspective.
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Tigertron
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« Reply #132 on: November 15, 2011, 08:39:30 PM »

I haven't done this yet but I did see there are two dimensions you can change. One is for the display size and one for the active area. I guess both need to be set. Riki should know.

Ryanwc does bring up and interesting point. Does the resolution of the pen change the further you get from the pad? It intuitively seems logical. The matrix is a pcb and the pen must have some direction ability because the pad does detect tilt. Hmmm

As for your shielding the FFC what you did was create a choke around the cable and choked the high frequency signals. If yo need to shield it try shielding just one side and don't wrap the foil around.
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janm
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« Reply #133 on: November 15, 2011, 09:50:01 PM »

I haven managed to get it so its usable, I've done it so the cursor and pen are perfectly matched in the center of screen, but once you get to the edges I get apporox 5mm drift, not bad but i still have
to spend some time doing this, i'm still building it so hav'nt had the time.

Interesting about the choke and high frequency signals...

The screen does not need shielding so far, there is jitter but once you start drawing its smooth..

oh had a  slight accident and killed two horizontal lines approx a third of the way down... Sad

jan
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janm
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« Reply #134 on: November 16, 2011, 02:08:31 AM »



Ok most of it is done just got to figure out how i'm going to put the glass/plexiglass on....

having a play now with some temporary 4mm glass on and the curser drift although still there I can now see that pointer at all times so its
not a big deal. Before I had nothing on the screen and the cursor was ending up behind the pen tip...

I have noticed that with the glass on its approx 14mm from the wacom board surface and i'm now getting a small amount of jitter whilst drawing...

Jan
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