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Author Topic: 21.5' Cintuos [WIP]  (Read 57558 times)
Dragon
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« Reply #150 on: December 03, 2011, 12:55:28 AM »

Quote
You could keep the LED bar in the metal frame and cut through the aluminium with a strong pair of scissors.  see this video from 2:01 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NQ5aeb8Z0JY

That's kind of an awesome idea.  Does anyone who's worked with this monitor think that could be done safely without scratching/cutting anything important?
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janm
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« Reply #151 on: December 03, 2011, 03:07:55 AM »


Yes this is exactly what I did.

The pressed metal sheet has raised sections that clip into the plastic black frame to keep it in place.

I used a dremel to carefully cut the metal sheet near the led.

The led sits in a groove in the cut metal piece as it originally did and everything is aligned perfectly with the diffuser when this modified peice is clipped in the black frame.

See the pic showing led bar and the cut metal frame.

Jan

 


* led-bar.jpg (48.83 KB, 1000x394 - viewed 497 times.)
« Last Edit: December 03, 2011, 03:09:47 AM by janm » Logged
Dragon
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« Reply #152 on: December 05, 2011, 03:06:05 AM »

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I used a dremel to carefully cut the metal sheet near the led.

The led sits in a groove in the cut metal piece as it originally did and everything is aligned perfectly with the diffuser when this modified peice is clipped in the black frame.

Sweet.

So, I've started taking my Intuos 1 apart and it's got a controller board in the back, followed by a piece of sheet metal, about 1cm thick styrofoam, and then the green sensor board.  I was thinking of replacing sheet metal and styrofoam with thin plastic or paperboard to make room for the monitor in front of the sensor (it might fit fully in the wacom case), but I wonder if the sheet metal and the gap between metal and sensor is important to the sensor in some way?  At a minimum I assume the metal prevents interference from the Intuos controller board.  How did you set yours up?
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Dragon
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« Reply #153 on: December 05, 2011, 05:50:31 AM »

Another question about FFC length:

A couple people in build logs mention that extending the cables that power the CCFL tubes makes the tubes dimmer.  Did you notice any difference after extending the 6C FFC that powers the LED bar?  Maybe that isn't a problem with LED.
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bernard
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« Reply #154 on: December 05, 2011, 06:07:03 AM »

Do NOT remove the metal back plate. This is specially formulated metal to reflect the EM/RF -- actually, I am not sure what it is. but I only know that you do not want to remove it - not even "bend it" . Imagine a mirror -- you want it to be perfectly flat.   The distance (the foam) is also important. 
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Dragon
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« Reply #155 on: December 05, 2011, 06:27:00 AM »

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Do NOT remove the metal back plate. This is specially formulated metal to reflect the EM/RF -- actually, I am not sure what it is. but I only know that you do not want to remove it - not even "bend it" . Imagine a mirror -- you want it to be perfectly flat.   The distance (the foam) is also important.

Thanks, Bernard.  I've looked at a number of build logs and nobody ever mentions or shows what's behind the sensor board in their build.  In fact, in every pic I've found so far, there appears to be almost nothing behind the sensor board.  I'm having trouble finding any build logs using the GD-1218 however.  I don't see how anyone possibly fits the monitor in the Intuos case without removing that foam... maybe it's different in newer Intuos?
« Last Edit: December 05, 2011, 06:34:40 AM by Dragon » Logged
janm
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« Reply #156 on: December 05, 2011, 12:09:30 PM »



Yes do not remove the metal back plate or the foam from behind the wacom sensor board. Without it there performance will be effected quite a lot and you'll get all sorts of
weird stuff happening to the cursor.

To get my monitor screen in to the board, I had to cut the top plastic on the wacom board to the same size as the screen I put in.

On mine the screen is approx 8mm thick with the diffuser so it will stick above the plane of the wacoms plastic a few mm's but this is not a problem as we have
plenty of headway before the board cannot sense the pen.

At this stage you would cover the screen with some protective sheet. I am thinking of using 2mm thick lexan.

Jan
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Dragon
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« Reply #157 on: December 05, 2011, 06:35:50 PM »

Thanks for the info.  I think I'm going to try getting 2mm glass to fit behind the front of the Intuos.  I think there are plastic ridges that could be cut out to hold the glass in place behind the cover.  Obviously this will leave the case open around the edges, but I think I can reinforce the screw pegs and maybe glue in some fine wire mesh so the open crack acts as ventilation without letting anything too big inside.
I know you can use acrylic and felt nibs instead of nylon nibs, but my wife always wears lots of jewelry and I think that will scratch the acrylic.  I also fear acrylic will bend in the middle on such a large screen unless you make it thick, which reduces the pen accuracy.
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bernard
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« Reply #158 on: December 05, 2011, 06:48:59 PM »

One build used a very nice "Mac-looking" metal mesh to close the "gap" or do something like that.  Look at the pictures of Wei's iTab --  http://forum.bongofish.co.uk/index.php?topic=1290.0
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