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Author Topic: 21.5' Cintuos [WIP]  (Read 57394 times)
monet
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« Reply #135 on: November 16, 2011, 05:09:15 AM »

I have a smaller screen too, intuos4 m with aspire one happy 10", I have to set the mapping area by guessing and testing the cursor, I did it horizontally first and then vertically (width then height) because of the jitter on the lower part of the screen about an inch wide across the screens lower part, and disable the force proportion. I have no further idea how to eliminate the jitter.
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janm
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« Reply #136 on: November 16, 2011, 11:27:36 AM »

Yes because he screen width is a little smaller the only way eould be to guess and manually input the numbers..

the jitter is where the screen flipout circuit is soi i'm gonna enclose that in metal, but what do i earth this metal to?
the flip out boards earths or the earth under the wacom board?
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monet
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« Reply #137 on: November 16, 2011, 06:20:01 PM »

I read that the pcb and shields need grounding, solder a wire back to the laptop, there are two metal arms on the sides of the lcd, depends on your laptop model.
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Dragon
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« Reply #138 on: November 28, 2011, 07:36:30 PM »

Hi Rik and Jan!

I have an Intuos and ips236 monitor on order and am trying to figure out what sort of FFCs and extenders I need.  I read through this thread a couple times and it sounds like Rik only extended the 7-pin FFC but Jan built extenders for both FFCs, but I'm not sure why.  If I'm looking at the pictures correctly, the only reason the FFCs need extending is so the LED bar can be moved to the top of the screen, but I was wondering if I could just rotate the screen 180 degrees and flip the display vertically in Windows control panel so it appears right side up again?  I tried that sort of flip on one monitor in a two-monitor configuration and it looks like it would work fine.  In that case, am I correct that no FFCs would need to be extended?

Thanks for your pioneering efforts!
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janm
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« Reply #139 on: November 28, 2011, 10:35:02 PM »



Hi,

The ips236v is slighlty different but here is some info on my setup.

I chose to extend the 7 pin and 30 connectors because I picked these up pretty cheap and wanted to be able to route the wires to the controller board to avoid the active area
of the intous as much as I could.

You will need the 7 pin extensions as a minimum because the original ffc's are designed in such a way as to allow the ffcs to reach their sockets on a screen thats not dismantled
with the circuit board flipped out from behind it.

Yes the the whole screen is flipped upside down in default. You can't just take the led bar out from the bottom and put it to the top...

I am able to configure a main monitor and the ips226v indipendently in the windows drivers when "extended desktop" is used.... (so you can flip the ips226v on the wacom the right way up in windows)
but when the desktop view is "duplicated" either the main screen or the wacom screen end up upside down or vice versa. You cannot configure independly when using duplicated desktop in windows.


Hope this helps...

Jan
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Dragon
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« Reply #140 on: November 28, 2011, 11:10:48 PM »

Thanks for the quick reply!  I meant to say I'd ordered the ips226v, not ips236v.

http://forum.bongofish.co.uk/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=1967.0;attach=4765;image makes it look like the 7 pin could easily reach if the connection to the LED bar were on the bottom right and the board with the DVI connectors were flipped around to the back and placed somewhere around the lower right...  I must be missing something.

That's an interesting point about mirrored vs extended monitors.  I would think I'd want to use an extended monitor configuration with such a large tablet - there would be no reason not to put Photoshop completely on the tablet monitor and ignore the main monitor, would there?  I don't think I can mirror my monitor with the tablet anyway because my main monitor is a 4:3 CRT - wrong aspect ratio.

I'm not sure what you meant when you said "Yes the the whole screen is flipped upside down in default. You can't just take the led bar out from the bottom and put it to the top...".  It was my understanding that what Rik did was pry out the LED bar in order to separate the layers of the screen and rotate some of the layers but not others such that the LED bar ended up on top and the screen image was rotated.  But he broke a screen doing that and in another thread he said it was probably better not to disassemble the screen and just accept the 7mm thickness.
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janm
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« Reply #141 on: November 29, 2011, 12:00:14 AM »


You want the ffcs to bend round the back of the wacom sensor board, I mean right round the back aound the foam and metal plate the wacom board sits on. The
ffc's just wont reach and would be considerably strained, you want to avoid strain on components.. Make no mistake these screens are delicate and its very
easy to damage them. I have two dead horizontal rows and I was pretty careful with everything. I inadvertantly touch some of the brown foils at the side
of the screen when it slipped whilst I was aligning to the wacom sensor.

I am going to get another screen...

You won't have a problem with extended desktop and screen orientation.

Originally when reading riks build I got the same impression as you.

However...

The diffuser is made up of the usual stuff, a plastic frame, diffusion elements etc...  Now the led bar is taped into a grove on a pressed sheet metal that sits
within the diffuser. You have to dismatle the screen, diffuser, to get this sheet metal out and then the led out of that. This sheet metal covers the back of the
whole screen so has to be removed.

The screen is then put together as it was before minus the sheet metal. You don't need to rotate some elements or flip bits etc... this would serve no purpose.

Now problem is that with this sheet metal removed how do you put the led bar in, rik aligned it to the plastic frame...  I am unsure of exactly how this was done
in Riks build and its something I asked clarification on if you look through the thread..

I've gone into some other stuff here but to be clear "the led bar is not taken from the bottom to put at the top".

Imagine this you have your ips226v infront of you. You rotate it 180 degrees... thats it.  the led bar is now sitting at the top....   When dismantled
the flip out board from the screen would be along the bottom...

Thats all thats needed...

look at the pic carefully

Jan


wait a few hours i'm going to start my build topic and hopefully this will help.. I have taken pics...  I was going to start this once my project was complete but
I have a little time so will start this off.
« Last Edit: November 29, 2011, 12:13:42 AM by janm » Logged
Dragon
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« Reply #142 on: November 29, 2011, 12:13:47 AM »

It's odd because Rik said in another thread "don't try to gain some mm  as I did ! remove all you can except the black plastic "casing" around the panel. your panel will be around 7/8mmthick and it's really ok. I tried to make it thiner and ... you saw what happened !"  But from your description it sounds like you have to disassemble it.  I don't suppose there's any chance the Wacom would work through the metal sheet...

Can you confirm if it's a 7 pin FFC I need, or 6 or 8?  Looking back at my notes I wrote that it was actually a 6 pin connector, 7mm wide, but in your pictures (http://forum.bongofish.co.uk/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=1967.0;attach=5210;image) it looks like you've got 8 pin sockets.
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janm
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« Reply #143 on: November 29, 2011, 12:15:58 AM »



I will check everything over in a bit and then post in my topic. Give me a few hours.

Jan
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janm
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« Reply #144 on: November 29, 2011, 01:20:21 AM »


Sorry but just looked at my pics and there are no pics that you need. I was in major panic when I opened the screen up and did not take any pics that would be usefull for taking the thing apart.

The LED ffc extension is 6 pin 1mm pitch.
The Other ffc extension is 30pin 1 mm pitch.

Now to clarify what rik!  was saying...

The black plastic frame holds the diffuser components... an acrylic sheet and some diffusion sheets. The plastic frame causes some seperation between these sheets.
Rik! is saying keep the pastic frame to hold these sheets apart, don't try to gain a few mm less thickenss by modifying this frame.

BTW...

here is a pic showing the pressed metal that holds the led bar in place. It needs to be taken out as it covers the back of the screen, the signal will not get through this... It clips
to the plastic frame I talked about earlier... to get this thing out the screen needs to be taken off the diffuser... the diffusser sheets taken out  (these need to be kept together and not
allowed to fall out or get mixed up).

Once this metal plate is removed you get take out the led bar...

This metal plate is the reason the screen needs to be completely dismantled.

Jan

see pics below showing pressed metal plate and plastic frame with diffuser bits inside.


* IMG_0210.jpg (61.41 KB, 1000x643 - viewed 429 times.)

* IMG_0214.jpg (63.27 KB, 1000x750 - viewed 404 times.)
« Last Edit: November 29, 2011, 01:25:13 AM by janm » Logged
Dragon
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« Reply #145 on: November 29, 2011, 01:51:06 AM »

Alright, thanks for the clarification!  Here's another good pic of where the LED bar comes from: http://forum.bongofish.co.uk/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=2029.0;attach=5132

I finally found Rik's post I remembered about flipping the screen:
"About the LED I didn't fliped it, I kept them in their place, I just flipped the whole screen so the LEDs are on top side. And i'm sorry I think I didn't get the last part of your post but I'll try to answer :
As I didn't moved the LED bar there is no problem but if I did so, I would have turn all the layers but the panel so the light would still be homogeneous."

So it does sound like Rik didn't flip it but that you could, in theory, flip some of the screen layers in order to put the LED bar on the other side without flipping the picture and then maybe you wouldn't need the FFC extension...  but rotating just some layers is probably too risky of an operation to be worth it and you might get dust between the layers even if you didn't damage anything.

You asked earlier how Rik aligned the LED to the plastic frame...  Maybe this is how?
"I put the difuser layer in the same order as the original screen on a thin cardboard piece ( a little less than 1mm ).
I put the led bar inside the plastic frame and put the frame on the diffuser. ( the cardbord is made for leveling, so the difuser will be right in front of the leds.)"

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Dragon
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« Reply #146 on: November 29, 2011, 10:09:11 PM »

How long total do you think the 6 pin FFC should be?  Rik mentioned 300mm in one post, 400mm in another, but I'm not sure if either of those lengths were meant to replace the existing 6pin cable or to extend it.  If meant as an extension, it seems like you could replace the existing cable with say a 700mm long cable and avoid buying FFC extenders.  That's if you could find someone to cut you a non-standard, extra long cable (www.gopherelectronics.com sounds like they might do that).
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janm
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« Reply #147 on: December 01, 2011, 11:14:12 AM »

how much would it cost for the 6pin ffc?   for 50cm and 100cm?     if its only going to be a few pounds/dollars then just get as long as you can.
The length will depend on how you want to route it really.

The 6pin ffc can be replaced but the
30 pin ffc cannot as its got a different connector on one side so this one needs to be extended if you need to do so.

There are lots of ways of doing this I would recommend you work out the position where you want the controller box first then measure the extensions or ffc  replacement lenghts.

Also keep in mind if you place the controller box somewhere and get jitter you might need to move it so have a bit in reserve for the ffc/ffc's.

Jan
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bernard
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« Reply #148 on: December 01, 2011, 03:06:29 PM »

if you plan ffc length, do not forget they are wide and flat and thus difficult to "bend sideways"  you typically make a sharp 90 or 180 turn by folding them -- use a piece of paper to test.
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DonShole
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« Reply #149 on: December 03, 2011, 12:14:15 AM »

Alright, thanks for the clarification!  Here's another good pic of where the LED bar comes from: http://forum.bongofish.co.uk/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=2029.0;attach=5132

You could keep the LED bar in the metal frame and cut through the aluminium with a strong pair of scissors.  see this video from 2:01 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NQ5aeb8Z0JY
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