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Author Topic: Which "Wacom tablet" can resize the working area?  (Read 15165 times)
Drewid
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« Reply #15 on: August 15, 2011, 01:34:58 PM »

The UD 1212 R  is serial only. It can be made to work on vista/win7 32 bit, (with a lot of messing about and some luck)  but 64 bit has been a bigger problem.
BUT, with a little soldering it can be converted into thinking it's an intuos2 USB, using Bernards "Waxbee" project.  I've done this to my UD1212R and it works great.

The original UD drivers can adjust both screen portion and tablet portion, the intuos2 drivers can do something similar.

Jitter is the cursor shaking, and sometimes random clicks. Some real cintiqs suffer from this, so it's not surprising that home-builds do as well.  Sometimes it can be cured by tweaking the monitor refresh rate, and good shielding around the monitor electronics helps too.   Once it was down to a bad power supply, and went away when the supply died and was replaced.  Random clicks can also be cause by pen settings, but not all the time.

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Drumbass
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« Reply #16 on: August 15, 2011, 02:11:01 PM »

You can tell me if the lighting system that i posted before can work?

Thank you so much
« Last Edit: August 15, 2011, 02:15:59 PM by Drumbass » Logged
Pesho
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« Reply #17 on: August 15, 2011, 03:22:25 PM »

I haven't dealt with the lighting myself so i can't tell you much about it. What's wrong with using the CCFL light and diffuser films etc. that come with the monitor? Sandblasted plexiglass probably won't offer the best brightness and distribution compared to the factory backlight panels. There is a great video on YouTube that explains how Twisted Nematic displays work and the backlight setup:

LCD Teardown

As for jitter problems, Drewid explained the pretty well. "Heat problems" are when the LEDs or CCFL backlight is too hot for the whole DIY Cintiq setup to work. Most laptop LCD panels have an an average backlight temperature of 50C which is not a problem. Maximum operating temperature of plexiglass is around 80C. If there are heat problems, consider using something like a ceramic tile as a heat shield.
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Drumbass
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« Reply #18 on: August 15, 2011, 03:39:37 PM »

I would use plexyglass instead "monitor's aborigine backlight" to resolve eventual space/signal problems.. There are some monitor lcd that have 3-4 neon behind the lcd panel, especially on old laptop!!

However, the system explained in the video is similar to mine Tongue The only difference: my project don't has light filter.. (and I can take them from an old broken monitor Tongue)
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Pesho
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« Reply #19 on: August 15, 2011, 03:44:55 PM »

So the plexiglass is supposed to replace the dot-pattern? I don't know how well this would work (you could try with a small piece), but that part in general has no effect on the signal quality, unless it's too thick of course...
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Drumbass
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« Reply #20 on: August 15, 2011, 04:00:31 PM »

So the plexiglass is supposed to replace the dot-pattern? I don't know how well this would work (you could try with a small piece), but that part in general has no effect on the signal quality, unless it's too thick of course...

The plexyglass and leds are supposed to replace the totality of lighting system.

For the signal, I referred to 6mm Tongue

For example, look how it's luminous the text in this photo.. All depends by the quantity of leds and by the power of leds.. (the text is sandblasted):



* WELCOME.jpg (150.42 KB, 1063x1002 - viewed 331 times.)
« Last Edit: August 15, 2011, 04:02:19 PM by Drumbass » Logged
Pesho
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« Reply #21 on: August 15, 2011, 04:16:47 PM »

It was very hard for me to find plexiglass thinner than 2mm here for the anti-scratch cover, so i deciced to use regular 2mm glass instead. "Frosted glass" might give very similar results for less money!

Also, only real way to be sure about the reading height is to do the "paper stack test" - stack a bunch of paper on the tablet and see how thick it can get before it stops detecting the pen.
« Last Edit: August 15, 2011, 04:18:39 PM by Pesho » Logged
Drumbass
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« Reply #22 on: August 15, 2011, 05:29:30 PM »

It was very hard for me to find plexiglass thinner than 2mm here for the anti-scratch cover, so i deciced to use regular 2mm glass instead. "Frosted glass" might give very similar results for less money!

Also, only real way to be sure about the reading height is to do the "paper stack test" - stack a bunch of paper on the tablet and see how thick it can get before it stops detecting the pen.

in past i've disassembled an LCD TV, and the plexyglas for illumination system was thick 8mm.. So if i will buy a monitor with the same plexyglass (8mm), i will replace it with a thinner panel..

prevention is better then cure!  Grin
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Pesho
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« Reply #23 on: August 15, 2011, 05:38:46 PM »

What's wrong with using a laptop LCD module with a controller? The whole LCD module is normally 5mm thick.
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Drumbass
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« Reply #24 on: August 15, 2011, 06:04:25 PM »

i wloud prefer don't buy at tabletmod.com.. Prices are too expansive..

I don't know which controller could be good for a laptop's lcd panel
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Pesho
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« Reply #25 on: August 15, 2011, 06:22:53 PM »

The cheapest are from eBay user NJYTouch (30$ for the standard model, 33$ for the one with DVI), i have one of them and it works great:

http://cgi.ebay.com/LCD-Controller-board-DIY-laptop-a-desktop-monitor-/280712241519?pt=COMP_EN_Networking_Components&hash=item415bc0e16f

 You have to send them a message with the model of the LCD panel and datasheet, or you can check the "supported monitors" on that page. In both cases you have to send them a message before purchase so they can send the correct LVDS cable and inverter. The package includes a keypad, inverter and controller board - power supply needs to be purchased separately. I didn't buy a power supply because i have a universal notebook adapter that can output the 12V, 4A current required by the controller board.

Still, if you already have a monitor, it's best to use that... there are many different ways to make a successful build.
« Last Edit: August 15, 2011, 06:30:54 PM by Pesho » Logged
Drumbass
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« Reply #26 on: August 15, 2011, 09:15:50 PM »

Where i can buy the only extension for all cables of monitors?
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Drewid
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« Reply #27 on: August 16, 2011, 10:00:52 PM »

The thing with the backlight slab is getting the illumination even.  The real slabs have a varying pattern that reflects more light in the centre and less next to the lamp in order to do this.
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« Reply #28 on: August 17, 2011, 08:31:03 PM »

Where i can buy the only extension for all cables of monitors?

nothing about this?
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Drewid
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« Reply #29 on: August 18, 2011, 09:36:44 AM »

Where are you based?
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