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Question: How can i create a touchstrip
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Author Topic: Diy touchstrip  (Read 16635 times)
Tigertron
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« Reply #30 on: November 11, 2011, 03:16:10 AM »

It does seem a little fishy. 48w would equal 12 @ 4 amps. They say that is max. Then in the one line description it says 60watt. The other amperages don't make sence. It will pulse if it draws too much current. The supply will turn on and off pulsing. If your motor works on 400 ma then I think you have a bad power supply. Contact them. Try a 12 light bulb if you have one. 4 amp supplies are common now so I don't think it should cost more than the $8.
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Ryanwc
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« Reply #31 on: November 11, 2011, 06:57:13 AM »

It does seem a little fishy. 48w would equal 12 @ 4 amps. They say that is max. Then in the one line description it says 60watt. The other amperages don't make sence. It will pulse if it draws too much current. The supply will turn on and off pulsing. If your motor works on 400 ma then I think you have a bad power supply. Contact them. Try a 12 light bulb if you have one. 4 amp supplies are common now so I don't think it should cost more than the $8.

Okay, so I think the power supply works good. I connected it to my 12-19v dremel, and it works great. The 12v 400ma works good on both the dremel and the 12v motor that I have(taken from blow fan from car). Only the dremel works at a constant rate with the 12v 4a power adapter. So my guess is that the reason the 12v motor does the weird on/off thing is because of the voltage. Since the other power adapter is 12v 400ma, it must be low enough amperage to make the motor run normally, while the 12v 4A power adapter is causing too much current causing on off pulsing. That is my best explanation anyways...
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Ryanwc
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« Reply #32 on: November 14, 2011, 11:27:50 PM »

Yay, my lcd controller board had arrived. Now I just need the correct lcd to arrive then I'm set to start building. Roll Eyes I'm still pretty bent on making my own vacuum formed enclosure.  Acrylic is the cheapest, but it is brittle. Polycarbonate is really strong and has a high impact strength(used to make bullet proof windows) but it is the most expensive. PETG is cheaper than Polycarbonate, and possible acrylic, and it has roughly 70% of the impact strength of Polycarbonate. It also thermoforms nicely too, but my plastic shop may not have it.

Does anyone have any idea as to what the intuos 3 cover is made out of? It is clear, and I'm gessing it is either PETG or polycarbonate.

rant: I just want to let everyone know that leonworks2003 is a hassle to deal with. After sending me the wrong item, it takes approximately 3 days for a reply(doesn't count weekends, so if you message them on a Wednesday, be prepared to get a reply on the following Tuesday)  Also, their replies always some vague, "product is 100% working, we have sold over 100 of the same item. Thanks you." Also, along with slow replies, they are taking a long time to refund me my money. If you absolutely have to buy from them, beware.
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Tigertron
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« Reply #33 on: November 15, 2011, 09:02:40 PM »

Hope you give him crappy feedback.

Chances are your 400 ma supply is a transformer. The 4a supply I know is a switching supply. If you draw try to draw too much current through a switcher it pulses the transformer will just put out it's max current and may open a primary winding but it is most likely current limited as well. Since you say the motor is a blower from a car I think it may be more than 4 amps.
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Ryanwc
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« Reply #34 on: November 15, 2011, 10:39:52 PM »

Hope you give him crappy feedback.

Chances are your 400 ma supply is a transformer. The 4a supply I know is a switching supply. If you draw try to draw too much current through a switcher it pulses the transformer will just put out it's max current and may open a primary winding but it is most likely current limited as well. Since you say the motor is a blower from a car I think it may be more than 4 amps.

ah, okay. Well I got my lcd intoday. I promised the leonworks that I will give a positive review of, "cares about customer" if they refund me all my money. If not, I will give them a bad review.
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Ryanwc
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« Reply #35 on: November 15, 2011, 10:42:10 PM »

OMG!!!! I got the wrong lcd again. WTH is with these sellers who are not shipping the correct item......I got lp150e07 A3 K1. Man....is it that hard to ship a dang ips panel.
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Ryanwc
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« Reply #36 on: November 16, 2011, 12:23:57 AM »

Well, I discovered the reason why I have been getting the wrong items. It is due to the simple fact that they are out of stock so they have been sending me replacement compatible parts....well so it looks like my ips panel dream is almost impossible....dang. oh well, at least both companies are refunding me and paying for return shipping.
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Ryanwc
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« Reply #37 on: November 20, 2011, 12:46:00 AM »

 Grin Grin Grin Grin Grin Grin Grin Grin

I got all the parts for my lcd. I got the correct lcd too yay. Although, for anyone interested in the 15 inch ips panel, the lp150e05 a2 k1 is not that impressive. I have a newer asus monitor that is tn technology, and its colors are almost identical when viewing at an angle. You can see my monitor here: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824236117 don't get my wrong, my main monitor is a pretty good one, its just there is slight color distortion in saturation on the ips panel. I think this has to do with the way the back light shines through each pixel. Anyways, I am happy that I got the right monitor, and in good condition too Smiley

 One thing though about the ips panel, it is pretty dim compared to my main monitor. I wonder if I need to replace the ccfl tubes. Is anyone familiar with this monitor and know about the brightness, I know it is rated at 1:550, but it seems awfully dim?


I placed my intuos 2 behind the monitor, and sure enough, there is jitter. But I'm pretty sure it is mostly grounding issues. I plan on going to the store today and picking up some polycarbonate, and some wood to begin my building process. I will post the build later.
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Drewid
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« Reply #38 on: November 20, 2011, 06:17:55 PM »

I thought the same thing about mine, but hunting around in the OSD menu I found a switch that made it much brighter, something to do with a power saving mode perhaps.  I think it was called DRC or DCR or something non-obvious like that
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Ryanwc
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« Reply #39 on: November 22, 2011, 01:56:03 AM »

I thought the same thing about mine, but hunting around in the OSD menu I found a switch that made it much brighter, something to do with a power saving mode perhaps.  I think it was called DRC or DCR or something non-obvious like that

I'll look for that. I adjusted the brightness, but it seems to be locked at the specific dim lighting. I hope I find that switch and that is all that needs to be done.

Also, I tried to change my screens refresh rate, but I was unsuccessful. It seems to be locked at 60hz. I purchased a dvi dual link male to hdmi 1.3 female adapter, and also an hdmi 1.3 cord. I hope that this cord will enable more flexibility in changing refresh rates due to the increased mhz. Although, I think technically, dvi should have enough mhz to allow at least some flexibility on my screens refresh rate. Either way, $4 is not bad for both the adapter and cable(6ft) -- Hell of a lot cheaper than any retail store. besides, I have an hd5850, and if I want to hook up an additional monitor on top of my dual monitor support, I need to use the hdmi slot.

Post picks soon. School is beginning to get pretty intense as finals are approaching  Undecided
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Ryanwc
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« Reply #40 on: November 24, 2011, 08:40:19 AM »

Alright, So I stripped the monitor including all the metal. I shielded the rows and columns, the inverter, and connected the lcd to the wacom ground. I have minimal jitter. I expect that once I may all of the connections, including grounding the shields and such, that all the jitter will disappear.

Does anyone know how to change the frequency of the monitor? I looked into my catalyst control center and it says I'm able to change the frequency from like 51 to 75. however, whenever I change it, the resolution automatically changes. It seems I cannot stay at 1400x1050 unless I stay at the 60hz frequency. This is potentially problematic because even though I barely have any jitter, it is something I want to eliminate entirely, such as k-jintiq's build.
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bernard
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« Reply #41 on: November 24, 2011, 03:00:14 PM »

make sure you have the latest catalyst stuff.  I think Pesho knew how to do that (search the forum).  If all else fails, you can try Powerstrip from Entech. I have a mini tutorial here: http://forum.bongofish.co.uk/index.php?topic=1815.msg13475#msg13475 
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Ryanwc
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« Reply #42 on: November 24, 2011, 11:12:35 PM »

make sure you have the latest catalyst stuff.  I think Pesho knew how to do that (search the forum).  If all else fails, you can try Powerstrip from Entech. I have a mini tutorial here: http://forum.bongofish.co.uk/index.php?topic=1815.msg13475#msg13475 

Thanks, I have the latest drivers for the ccc. Although, since the ability of installing new drivers over old for ati was implemented, that may be the problem. Amd has a record for bugs in there releases. I think I'll do an uninstall, and then a clean sweep of the drivers and then reinstall. Hopefully all will be fixed.
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