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Author Topic: Starting out - To begin at the beginning.  (Read 27589 times)
buildorbust
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« Reply #45 on: August 31, 2011, 05:12:00 PM »

I would say that beyond the sizes and everything, some of those IPS monitors tend to be thick -- (Talking about the LCD Panel). Typically that is because the backlight is... in the back! (not on the side like laptops).    I have an IPS with 6 (!!) CCFL lamps. I never "saw" the lamps, but they are not on the side for sure.

I never tested but having the backlight lamps in the back sounds like it is going to interfere with the wacom.

What about the lamps would interfere out of curiosity? The frequency or the added thickness? I thought people were able to change the registration distance by moving the backplate on the wacoms. So if it's just that, would that be a fairly simple workaround?
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bernard
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« Reply #46 on: August 31, 2011, 06:58:14 PM »

The distance mostly, but I would not be surprised with interference.

Moving the back panel is something that worked beautifully for one person. Not many tried. I know at least one person tried fairly recently and it didn't work at all. So as of this writing, it is safer to assume that it will not work. If it does, the better.

On top of that, those thick panel typically have a lot of metal to strip off as well.
« Last Edit: August 31, 2011, 06:59:55 PM by bernard » Logged
Pesho
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« Reply #47 on: August 31, 2011, 09:25:20 PM »

Jitter most definitely increases with the distance! Small jitter at closer range increases when increasing the distance. Interestingly, reading height also varies with the type of material you put between the pen and the surface - on my tablet it reads fine with paper or with the LCD module on at about 6mm, but if you do the same with a stack of CDs, it's a different story...
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buildorbust
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« Reply #48 on: August 31, 2011, 09:49:11 PM »

Jitter most definitely increases with the distance! Small jitter at closer range increases when increasing the distance. Interestingly, reading height also varies with the type of material you put between the pen and the surface - on my tablet it reads fine with paper or with the LCD module on at about 6mm, but if you do the same with a stack of CDs, it's a different story...

Probably that shiny metal layer shielding the tablet from your pen Wink
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Pesho
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« Reply #49 on: August 31, 2011, 10:21:59 PM »

It so must've been that Tongue The "CD test" really is completely useless. Makes you wonder though, if the reason some screens cause jitter and others don't has something to do with thin layers of metal inside them... Like, if more densely packed transistors from hi-res screens would cause more of it etc.
« Last Edit: August 31, 2011, 10:23:34 PM by Pesho » Logged
buildorbust
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« Reply #50 on: August 31, 2011, 10:49:37 PM »

It so must've been that Tongue The "CD test" really is completely useless. Makes you wonder though, if the reason some screens cause jitter and others don't has something to do with thin layers of metal inside them... Like, if more densely packed transistors from hi-res screens would cause more of it etc.

Well the thing with cds is there's a lot of variety. The writable discs you buy in a store are basically just optical. I think the pressed ones are more complicated as they're designed to last longer/be more stable. Also, my understanding is that all cd's are designed to be unaffected by magnetic fields, which could be part of the reason they're throwing off the signal - they're actually engineered to reject m fields.
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sekopasa
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« Reply #51 on: December 17, 2011, 09:03:59 AM »


Hi have a laptop screen just like the screen stated below with a brown connection between top and left, is it possible to make an extention for it?

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bernard
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« Reply #52 on: December 17, 2011, 04:06:33 PM »

depends on the connector -- we do not see very well in the picture.  Often these have a connector on one side, and often it is a FFC connector. Now you need the number of pins and the pitch (distance between pins), and, if lucky, you might be able to find alternatives.  You compute the pitch by measuring all the pins (in mm) and dividing by the number of pins.   0.5mm and 1mm are common.
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sekopasa
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« Reply #53 on: December 18, 2011, 12:08:07 PM »

Let me start from scratch



i found this panel, and ordered an controller and an adaptor from njytouch, i wish i had read more before ordering because the brown connection issue.

Any way i wouldnt have much selection because there is not much  15inch panels with 1600x1200 res. I got my connector and panels, i succesfuly connected them.

It worked as an monitor.


I was thinking that the hard part was over but it was just starting.

I put the panel on top of the wacom. But my pen didnt respond.

Than i thought that it happend beacuse the panel is too thick. I decided to make it thinner i took out the metal case, and then tried to remove the plastic part. At the end i broke the panel.

I get into this forum and understood that its not the thickness but inteference caused by the green panels behind the panel.

I spend around 50$ for controller and adapter 30$ for broken panel. Now i have to buy another panel for 33$ and i talked with an technician he says he can make a connection between the upper and side panels cable by cable but he wants 40$ for the labor. I will need an case to keep all thing in one piece im estimating 50$ but it could be more.

Is it possible to make it sure, it will work or nor? And do you think does it worth it. Because the panel it not very good from the side views.

I need pro advices.
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Pesho
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« Reply #54 on: December 18, 2011, 03:47:15 PM »


Hi have a laptop screen just like the screen stated below with a brown connection between top and left, is it possible to make an extention for it?



Oh hey, that's the Sanyo/Torisan TM121-SV, i have the same one here and wanted to use it first, but it's very unsuitable for the DIY screen tablet thing. Although it gives no jitter, it can't be unfolded and it can't use FFC extensions because it uses a very non-standard connector that "snaps in", looks a little like this:



The 15'' Toshiba one you showed has the same issue, but the FFC connector appears to be much more common, so you may have more luck finding the proper extension for it. The diy-beamer website offers these extensions, but im not sure how well they will work. If you decide to get another LCD+controller combination, i can recommend the one i used - LG LP121X04 (12'', 1024x768), or the Samsung LTN121XF-L01, which both work with the same NJYTouch controller program. How big is your tablet by the way?
« Last Edit: December 18, 2011, 03:49:47 PM by Pesho » Logged
sekopasa
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« Reply #55 on: December 18, 2011, 07:35:06 PM »

Thank you very much, this one of the most helpful comunities. I have a intuos 3 a4 standart size. I am very new on this tablet modding, im not sure what is FFC connector, im assuming its the brown thing behind the panel. I will be more than happy if you can give the link. I hope they have international shipping beause im in Turkey.  I would buy one if it will cost lover than 40$ including shipment.

 Are you satisfied with the 1024x720 screen, i thought i would not have enough drawing space left.

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sekopasa
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« Reply #56 on: December 18, 2011, 07:51:24 PM »

Hi, i found the site. But i dont know which FFC will help me, i have the datasheet of panel. Where should i look to understand which FFC i need.
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Pesho
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« Reply #57 on: December 18, 2011, 08:23:18 PM »

The Intuos3 A4 standard fits a 15'' screen with 4:3 ratio (NOT widescreen), so the Toshiba LTM15C166 panel will fit exactly.

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Hi, i found the site. But i dont know which FFC will help me, i have the datasheet of panel. Where should i look to understand which FFC i need.

I've never had to use FFC extensions myself so i'm afraid i can't help much with that. You have to measure the cable yourself and look at the connector for how many pins it has and what is the pitch (distance between pins). FFC connectors come in many different sizes and shapes, so the trick is finding the correct one. Many users here have had to do this, you can look on this forum for build logs where this has happened, like This one. I've never had to order FFC extensions, but shipping should be very cheap because everything can fit inside a normal letter envelope. I'm in Bulgaria and shipping a whole LCD screen from eBay was around 20$.

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Are you satisfied with the 1024x720 screen, i thought i would not have enough drawing space left.

1024x768 is perfect for a 12'' screen. The Torisan is 800x600, which is not very much, but i'd consider it the bare minimum for 12 inches. For your case it's a 15 inch screen and you may need something a little higher like 1280x960. The second screen you showed supports 1600x1200 which is more than enough, perhaps even too high if you have bad eyesight and can't see small letters.
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sekopasa
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« Reply #58 on: December 19, 2011, 07:47:31 PM »

Should i also buy a PCB or is there a conventional way to conect FFC'ies?
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Pesho
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« Reply #59 on: December 20, 2011, 12:16:00 AM »

You will need the PCB because FFC's don't have connectors on them, they are completely flat and you insert them into a socket like this:



You will actually need only 1x FFC and 1x PCB, but you can get a second FFC just in case, as a spare. They will also have to be long enough, of course.
« Last Edit: December 20, 2011, 12:17:55 AM by Pesho » Logged
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