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Author Topic: The CABROONTIQ build starts!!  (Read 14985 times)
cabroon
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« Reply #30 on: December 31, 2012, 07:54:16 AM »

On to the next issue, my cable terminals are on the same side, and the intuos 4 terminals are on different sides. (straight and inverse for future reference)
First I tried to just fold the last part of the cable, so the added thickness acted as the plastic backing, so the lock coudl "bite" everything to make contact on the terminals. Partial success. Tablet was detected as an input device, I was able to use the pen, but the pressure didn´t worked and the oled displays of the tablet didn´t lighted up.
I rewired it again with the original cable and it worked as normal. After being relieved that My tablet still worked, I got back to bussiness.
Trial and error, trial and error, until I saw on the magnifying glasses that my terminals were damaged from so much manipulation.
I decided to cut them an try to make new terminals. Since I was cutting them anyway, I decided to take my chances at making one of the terminals straight and the other one inverse.
I took my dremel tool with a sanding cilinder and started working very smoothly over the edges just to uncover the metallic strip. For the initial stripping it was good, but too powerful and at some point, it cutted the metal strip. So had to cut that portion and start over.
This time slower. After I got to some point, I started sanding it manually. I fixed the sandpaper on my table and pressed the FCC cable with my index finger, sanding it in the direction of the metal strips, moving away from the sandpapaer. Same procedure on the other side, double checked for the inverse orientation.

After I was finished, I cutted the blue plastic backings to fit the new 18 pin widht, and inserted them along with the fcc cables and
TOUCHDOWN!!!! The oleds lighted up like fireworks!! (They just started working, but I was so excited about it)   

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Finally I was able to set my monitor directly over the digitizer for some tests.
so my desk now looks like this
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cabroon
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« Reply #31 on: December 31, 2012, 08:09:23 AM »


I thought that reducing the distance between the pen an the tablet would eliminate the jitter.
Not everything went as expected.
I found that the jitter is Basically the same I had before opening my tablet with only the LCD display on top of it.  Huh
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So my next step is to fiddle around with video frequencies.
I already installed powerstrip, but I don´t know how to use it. I dont want to screw something up. If there´s already a part of the forum where it´s tutored on how to use it, could you direct me to it?

Good day, good progress. CAbroon out.
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lazy_mosquito
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« Reply #32 on: December 31, 2012, 12:52:26 PM »

Hey Cabroon:
You possible missed this one: but it would have made your job a lot easier; this fcc fits and is 20 cm long.
http://be.farnell.com/jsp/search/productdetail.jsp?SKU=1908552
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cabroon
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« Reply #33 on: December 31, 2012, 04:40:10 PM »

Hey Cabroon:
You possible missed this one: but it would have made your job a lot easier; this fcc fits and is 20 cm long.
http://be.farnell.com/jsp/search/productdetail.jsp?SKU=1908552

Thanks!! ordering from my country is a big problem. Taxes are really high for any imports, so I wanted to try my luck modifying the cable before placing an order, and thank god it worked. My ffc is 15 cms log, so its more than enough to work with.
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cabroon
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« Reply #34 on: December 31, 2012, 04:53:24 PM »

Ok, I knew I should have waited.
I started messing with the dials and options of powerstrip. First it recognized my secondary screen as aoc 2243fw. Now it just says "generic pnp monitor". Serial number and resolution (1920 x 1080 at 60 hz) is shown as the same. I fiddled with the frequency dials and only gave an option of 59 or 60 hz, and it didn´t make a difference with jitters. I tried uninstalling it but it wont let me since it is always in use!! what should I do?, how do I restore defaults.

 Huh Huh Huh Huh Huh Huh Huh

Now my two screens are a mess, they open photoshop half in one screen and half in the other.
I read that lazy mosquito experienced no jitters with a mac and jitters on a pc maybe because of the overclocked video card.
How can I check that?

I read most of the forum posts and found some very insightful information hidden among them.
Please help me or point me in the right direction. The forum is big, and sometimes it is not that easy to find the right info you´re looking for
Thanks!
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bernard
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« Reply #35 on: December 31, 2012, 07:52:06 PM »

yes forum is big, and it takes an enormous amount of time helping everybody and doing the searches myself. Wink

Yes, powerstrip is not always easy to deal with. I do not know what to do in your situation from the top of my head.  Find posts about powerstrip find the people that played with it a lot and send them a message or a follow up post.
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lazy_mosquito
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« Reply #36 on: January 01, 2013, 05:25:34 AM »

i understand you work in Windows: You could always start up in safe-mode (the mode you enter by pressing the "F8" button when you start up Windows.) This would give you the option to start up in "safe mode" In this mode you start up without drivers or anything. So you could disable or uninstall the program. I don't know powerstrip by heart, but i should expect there is an option which enables or disables the option to automatically startup the program at startup of the computer. If not go back to option one  Cool
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cabroon
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« Reply #37 on: January 03, 2013, 05:39:54 AM »

Update with jittering.

I plugged my screen and tablet to my old laptop, and surprise!!! no jitter!, only a bit on the right side, where the led strip is. It is a Dell inspiron 9500. But the hardware is so worn out, that it barely runs Photoshop cs2. So the oriign of the problem was the vaio or the graphic card or something, else, not the monitor nor the tablet. So I plugged everything back how it was and started playing with screen parameters and graphic card parameters.

My graphic card only let me change the refresh rate from 60 to 59 hz, so no difference with both options.
Tried my best to ground the ledstrip with the monitor card and the base of the monitor, but again, no difference.
And FINALLY I found the answer.
I changed the resolution of the screen, originally 1080p: 1920 x 1080 native resolution, to 1680 x 1050 and the jitters dissapeared 99%!!, only a slow 1 pixel variation to left and right, but close to nothing and not noticeable. I experimented with other resolutions and this one (only one below my monitor´s native resolution) worked wonders. 
BUT (there is always one but) that left me with a 3.5 cms wide vertical strip of unusable screen on the left side, where the led strip is located.
That part is as I said, virtually unusable. The pen is not detected correctly in there, lots of aeroclicks and super jitter. Once outside of that zone, the pen behaves smoothly.
Anyway, I won´t complain, since my first tests showed that I will work 99% of the time in the central area. and not on the borders, besides, I still have 44 cms of screen width to work with. which is more than enough.

8 mm total added thickness of my lcd + a 2 mm thick cristal. 2mm is more than enough, very resistant, and not as easy to scratch as acrylic.
The pen reading height is perfect for me. All of this is placed above the closed tablet.
I shouldn´t have opened my tablet in the first place. These gadgets have a long life, and if my screen ever fails, I can always replace it. That´s why I wanted to keep my tablet as unaltered as possible.

Still some issues. I need to add some sort of heatsink, since the led strip heats up a lot. I read that heat reduces the leds life. I think I´ll use the same metallic backplate That was covering the screen at the beginning.
Also want to keep the frontal black frame of the AOC monitor but I will need a bigger frame around it to support the whole thing. I´m thinking about a wooden frame painted in matte black to match the tablet.
I Want to put it over the tablet surface with a non permanenet adhesive method, maybe a double side adhesive tape or some self stickin high resistant velcro strips, so if I ever need to open the tablet to fix something in the screen, it won´t be so difficult.

So yes, I´m almost finished, wrapping up the final details. I dont´think I´ll tinkle more with the insides of my tablet. Despite of the 3.5 cms zone, I´m very satisfied with the results so far.

Will keep posting my progress and some pics later.
Cabroon out.
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lazy_mosquito
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« Reply #38 on: January 03, 2013, 12:28:43 PM »

How is the drawing on the tablet? The quality of the lines?
In my case i saw a huge difference in line quality.
In the first case: connected to my laptop: totally no jitter and exceptionally smooth lines
second case: connected to my desktop pc: almost no jitter (at some places 1 pixel) but the line quality is horrible compared with the laptop. Its not smooth anymore.

Your build strengthens my belief that the jitter very often is caused by external elements as graphic card, grounding of the net, etc... Your jitter also got a lot better the moment you used your laptop.
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profaldo
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« Reply #39 on: January 03, 2013, 12:38:10 PM »

Could it be the difference in the power that is drawn by the laptop compared to the desktop?

I know desktops come with huge power blocks, where as the laptop is much more leaner.

It could either be the power supply or the design.
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cabroon
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« Reply #40 on: January 04, 2013, 05:12:08 AM »

How is the drawing on the tablet? The quality of the lines?
In my case i saw a huge difference in line quality.
In the first case: connected to my laptop: totally no jitter and exceptionally smooth lines
second case: connected to my desktop pc: almost no jitter (at some places 1 pixel) but the line quality is horrible compared with the laptop. Its not smooth anymore.

Your build strengthens my belief that the jitter very often is caused by external elements as graphic card, grounding of the net, etc... Your jitter also got a lot better the moment you used your laptop.

Both of the computers I used are laptops. The older one was the one with no jitters.
The newer one, a core I5, with Nvidia geforce graphhic card is the one suffering jitters. Downgrading resolution worked for me.
Still a little 1 pixel jitter. I have started working on it lately and realized that line quality depends a lot on the zoom % you are working with. If you work around 100% your jitter will be more evident and your line quality worst. If you work at a bigger zoom % 200 and above, and you make your tracing in a fluent and rapid way, your jitter dissapears and your line quality improves a lot. that worked for me at least.

Right now working on heat diffusor with the metal brackets that the monitor came with, I am going to use the monior plastic case at least the front part of it to hold everyuthinng in place.
I´m thinking about inverting the monitor orientation in order to put the unusable zone on the side I use less. but that would bring soem other problems I have yet to figure.

cabroon out.
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lazy_mosquito
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« Reply #41 on: January 04, 2013, 05:41:22 AM »

With the one with the small jitter i have the same experience as you have, with the zooming etc.
With the laptop that has no jitter i can zoom what i want, or draw fast or slow it doesn't matter. The lines are all very smooth.
The laptop in my case has a build in gpu (core i7 with intel hd 4000) The desktop which has jitters has a rather old graphic card (nvidia 8800 gt 640 mb).
I bought yesterday a hd 7950 and will try if this one gives less jitter.
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cabroon
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« Reply #42 on: January 24, 2013, 06:26:24 AM »

So in the final stages of my build. Finally I got my face plate.
Look from the front and from the back. I asked for some vent holes on the Right part so I could fit some kind of heatsink on the led side. The left side was left thin, so I would cover as little as possible from the oled screens and the touch screen.
I had to grind down the upper part to fit the circuit connections. I also grind down partially the part where I would fit the heatsink.
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I had to work with the edges of the inner fitting of the frame, since I broke one glass while trying to fit it by force and I had to wait the whole weekend to order another one on monday. 2mm thick glass works perfectly for me. Very resistant and I can lean my whole arm on it without breaking it.
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cabroon
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« Reply #43 on: January 24, 2013, 06:36:06 AM »

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Some more details on how I mounted my monitor on my frame, Since it was custom built, I just started by putting the glass, the monitor and added a double tin foil cover on the top circuitry in a final attemp to eliminate jitter. No difference for me on that department.

After that I added the heat sink with a couple of folded aluminum sheets to fit into the space I had already prepared for them. By the time I am writing these my build is finished, so I can say that the heatsink and ventholes make a wonderful job on reducing the heat on the right side on the monitor.
The red plastic thingy on the edges is double sided tape. Tip: dont use as much as I did. Little strips will get the job done. And it will be a nightmare if you want to remove the cover if your fitting ends up wrong. Now I know.
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cabroon
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« Reply #44 on: January 24, 2013, 06:36:45 AM »

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