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Author Topic: Joining high-pitch FFCs : Does DIY Beamer still exist? An alternative...  (Read 7455 times)
Chocochan
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« Reply #15 on: January 18, 2013, 03:47:05 PM »

Just thought I'd add that I tried the tape and cable (which I received yesterday) and they work great (as in I can still see a clear image as before). I've wrapped the connection in electrical tape and will leave it until tomorrow (give it 24 hours) for the adhesive to attain full strength, then it's pure testing and faffing to see if there's any jitter and also some soldering of cables too (once I know exactly which pin is which on the USB terminals of the PCBs).

If I'm lucky, this'll be the easiest LCD tablet I'll ever make, or... the hardest.  Cry Overall, I would recommend the 3M 9703 tape for extending FFCs  and it certainly is a much cheaper and faster solution than relying on DIY Beamer. I'm thinking it might be possible to repair damaged tracks with it if you are careful enough and use the tape in the right axis.

It was a 10cm piece I bought and I still have plenty left over.
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Aerendraca
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« Reply #16 on: January 18, 2013, 09:47:05 PM »

That's great news, I'm glad it worked out for you. I'm actually thinking about getting some of this tape myself, just want to have a play with it really. Given that small pieces aren't too expensive maybe I'll give it a go and see if I can fix the Samsung with it.

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bernard
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« Reply #17 on: January 18, 2013, 10:32:15 PM »

this tape is a great breakthrough!!! 
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Chocochan
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« Reply #18 on: January 19, 2013, 04:54:09 PM »

Well, I've got new issues to deal with. Firstly there's jitter and I don't have much reading height to work with when floating the pen. What's more is that I can't get the mouse pointer to match up with the pen tip. Using the driver software, I've mapped the tablet to the USB monitor, but no matter where I put the LCD panel, it's ALWAYS off and gets worse as I move the pen. If I can't get it sorted, I may have to change tablets or think of something else.

EDIT: I do have a Wacom digitiser board I took from out of an old tablet PC. It's got a little PCB attached to the back of it that has a small cable. I'm not sure if there's a way to use it...
« Last Edit: January 19, 2013, 05:01:52 PM by Chocochan » Logged
bernard
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« Reply #19 on: January 19, 2013, 05:54:02 PM »

you need to match the size perfectly else the pointer will drift away as you move. is your lcd bigger than the tablet?
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Chocochan
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« Reply #20 on: January 19, 2013, 08:24:13 PM »

you need to match the size perfectly else the pointer will drift away as you move. is your lcd bigger than the tablet?

Only bigger vertically as the tablet's active area is 7" 4:3 ratio (6 x 5") and the Mimo USB monitor is 7" 16:9 ratio (I think). Might as well confess, I'm using a Hanvon ArtMaster tablet as I didn't want to bother with another Wacom since I failed miserably the last time. Hanvon's drivers allow you to choose which monitor to set the tablet to and apparently allow you to set it to a part of the monitor, but somehow I can't get that bit to work. I've even tried the auto settings, but nothing.


* hanvon.jpg (61.65 KB. 672x606 - viewed 418 times.)


It's a shame as it has some really good specs and the board itself is actually much smaller than the casing meaning I can make a smaller case for it and make it even more portable. I have emailed Tablet Kiosk (known for their good, but extraordinarily expensive tablet PCs) if they could sell me a Wacom digitiser board from one of their discontinued 7" models. I'm not expecting to hear from them, but it's worth a try. Ever that or I get a cheap small Wacom and try again. I did see someone make a DIY Cintiq from one of the old Bamboos (the one with the touch wheel) and someone even made one from a Lapazz tablet (UC-Logic) and it looks like it worked well.

EDIT: Found a US eBay seller with faulty Entourage Pocket Edge tablets for sale. They're 7" and "penabled". Worth looking into to see if one can be modified to work via USB. I'd substitute high pressure levels and whatever for a perfect jitter-free no fuss build!

EDIT 2: Crap. The Entourage Pocket Edge has a 6" digitiser which is just plain stupid. Why have one screen smaller than the other?! And then still charge a lot for the whole product? It's a real shame as the seller was willing to help. I *could* look for a bigger LCD to work with the Mimo's controller board, but it's not easy finding one that will have the same connector and compatible pinout...

« Last Edit: January 20, 2013, 03:52:54 PM by Chocochan » Logged
Drewid
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« Reply #21 on: February 03, 2013, 11:23:05 PM »

Hi Chocochan,

I can't imagine you would experience any problems using a larger ziff connector than required, at least I can't think of a good reason why you would so long as the pinouts match.

As an alternative though, you might be able to use some 3M 9703 Anisotropic tape (conductive only in z-axis) to join another piece of FFC ribbon to make your own extension, I believe this tape can join FFC ribbon down to a pitch of 0.4mm. Not tried it myself but it's a solution that 3M themselves suggest on their site. I've seen small pieces on ebay for a few £ so not too expensive either.

Can you not just buy a longer 45pin FFC cable? Can't imagine that'd be too expensive. Actually I think I might have done this before some time ago when I build a projector with the help of LumenLab (which I'm not sure are still active), I'll have a think about where I might have got it from. You'll need to know the pitch of the ribbon though (which is likely to be 0.5mm I would think).

Maybe something like:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/45-Pins-POWER-RIBBON-FFC-CABLE-AWM-20624-80C-60V-VW-1-/271029503898

or
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AWM-20798-RIBBON-FLEX-CABLE-0-50-mm-pitch-45-PIN-800mm-45PIN-80cm-/221075277566?pt=US_Audio_Cables_Adapters&hash=item33791d06fe (should be long enough)

Good find, what sort of voodoo is this?
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DaBotz
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« Reply #22 on: June 08, 2016, 01:56:16 PM »

I have seen that Njytouch sells some 0.5mm FFC and ZIF-to-ZIF extender boards (many eDP panels ditch the classic LVDS clip for a simple FFC and ZIF).
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