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Author Topic: Wacom GD-0912-U vs. Samsng Syncmaster 570P  (Read 15386 times)
Agerkvist
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« Reply #15 on: March 05, 2013, 08:20:56 PM »

So, I haven't had time to look inside at the capacitors yet, but I did a bit of testing.

When the monitor is plugged into the laptop, without the laptops desktop being shared the monitor will be blank and the power light will just blink fast - about 2 blinks per sec or so.
However, if I change the settings to stretch the desktop over the two screens, the blinking will change to slower blinkts- 1,5-2 secs between each.

Does this tell "us" anything at all?
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Agerkvist
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« Reply #16 on: March 06, 2013, 01:09:50 PM »

I managed to almost completely disassemble the monitor last night - took a few pictures:

This is right after removing the outer plastic casing:

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/2763619/IMAG0099.jpg

The inner casing removed:

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/2763619/IMAG0103.jpg

A closer look at the innards:

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/2763619/IMAG0101.jpg

The only thing still keeping the prints to the panel are these:

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/2763619/IMAG0104.jpg

I should be able to disconnect those on the panel and buy some longer ones yeah? This is where things start getting complicated for me, and I really realize how much like a fish on land I am Tongue

Now, about the capacitors - I'll have to take a closer look when I get home, but a few of them did seem abit doomed. Whats with the white goo - glue to hold them in place or just another sign that they're broken?

I'll write more later - this erply window is acting like a breakdancing ferret - is this a know issue with IE? Makes typing REALLY hard
« Last Edit: March 06, 2013, 09:23:44 PM by Agerkvist » Logged
Agerkvist
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« Reply #17 on: March 06, 2013, 05:01:53 PM »

argh I've messed up all the links - I'll redo them later ><
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Aerendraca
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« Reply #18 on: March 06, 2013, 07:34:02 PM »

The white stuff is most likely glue to hold the caps down; Usually the stuff you get leaking out the bottom of a capacitor looks a bit like rusty goop.

Can't tell you if it's definitely the capacitors since your links aren't currently working, but I'll check back later.
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Agerkvist
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« Reply #19 on: March 06, 2013, 09:29:02 PM »

Ok, the links in my post above should be fixed now.

I took a few more closeups of the capacitors - quite a few, like 5-6 or so, seem to be bulging out abit at the top. I've no experience with capacitors at all, so I can't tell how much is too much. I reckon it's quite hard to tell from the pictures aswell.

Capacitor Close-up Action Shots:

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/2763619/2013-03-06%2021.14.37.jpg

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/2763619/2013-03-06%2021.14.28.jpg

I also managed to crack the ZIF Ribbon code (YAY) so here's what I'm left with:



Everything is taped in placed from here. I'll read up on all of this abit more before I proceed - I'm not too worried about breaking things, since this monitor is already broken, but I do wan't to learn as much as possible before my next try.

Post Scriptum: the reply window works fine in chrome.
« Last Edit: March 06, 2013, 10:01:33 PM by Agerkvist » Logged
Aerendraca
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« Reply #20 on: March 06, 2013, 10:14:11 PM »

Confirmed! You have a whole batch of dead capacitors there.

Can't read any values apart from one, but in the first picture the two larger black capacitors (1000uF maybe?) and 4 of the purple ones (all 470uF ? not sure) but the smaller purple one looks ok.

Oh, I see another cap in the second picture..... hmmm..... let me illustrate instead:

* 2013-03-06 21edit.jpg (214.26 KB. 778x466 - viewed 293 times.)

Those which I have singled out with a yellow circle require replacing.

Was there also a large black capacitor labelled 400V? It's huge compared to these.

If that's all of them then whip them out, buy some more (ebay) and stick them in, should all work a treat after that. When buying new capacitors remember to match the 'uF' values and try to get replacements where the voltage is the same or slightly higher (don't go lower!! might not be a problem but not worth risking it).

Good luck!

Oh, also, these are polarised electrolytic capacitors which means that they prefer to be connected a specific way around. The direction of orientation is indicated on the capacitor as a white strip down the side (shows that the leg closest is negative), match the white strip to the shaded semi-circular portion on the circuit board.

« Last Edit: March 06, 2013, 10:20:50 PM by Aerendraca » Logged
Agerkvist
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« Reply #21 on: March 06, 2013, 10:26:30 PM »

Yeah I could definately feel a difference, but I wasn't quite sure if this was enough. I feel, pretty, confident I can tell the good ones from the bad.

And yeah, there's a huge black one aswell - I didn't actually check that one, but I will tomorrow.

I'll try and find a local shop, online or regular, that has them in stock, just for the heck of it. But I'll probably grab another cheap monitor aswell, just to make sure I have one that definately works.

Thanks again Aerendraca, I'll post more soon! Smiley

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Agerkvist
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« Reply #22 on: March 23, 2013, 02:16:01 PM »

Right, it's time for an update.

I decided to get a new screen instead of replacing the capacitors on the old one - this one was also almost free, so it was the sensible thing to do. Also, this one has a external power supply, so that's a bonus Smiley

The new screen is a Samsung Syncmaster 570p and I've already stripped it all the way down and it still works - excellent!

My next step was to strip down the tablet, but when testing before taking it apart it started acting up - basically the cursor jumps all over the place. I know this is driver related, since I've managed to solve to problem earlier, but I forgot what I did exactly. It involved downloading some old drivers, but I forgot which exactly.

So, now I have my eyes on an Wacom  GD-0912-U tablet that's for sale pretty cheap and pretty close to where I live - it's Wacom, it's Intuos but it's also very old and I'm just wondering if it's TOO old - driver wise etc.

Should I pick that one up? Does it even have USB? Hah better I'd better check that.

Bottom line, I'm super stoked that I managed to tear the monitor apart without breaking anything up and just as annoyed that my trusty tablet choose this time to act up - but still, better now than after the build was complete.
« Last Edit: March 23, 2013, 02:33:01 PM by Agerkvist » Logged
Agerkvist
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« Reply #23 on: March 25, 2013, 11:20:40 PM »

Ok guys, here's where I start to really need your help.

The monitor is torn apart and I have my new Wacom GD-0912-U tablet working in Windows 7. I did a quick test and there's some jitter, but it wasn't excessive so I'm hoping this is fixable later.

However, before I get that far I need to do some cable extending to make everything fit.

Here's the screen in it's current state, with everything assembled:

http://db.tt/pImVEJNy

With my layman's eyes it seems that I'll have to extend the two flat orange cable strips(sorry, I've no idea what they're actually called. in the top part of the picture - this is pretty much as in the original bongofish DIY guide - but, there's an extra connector here it seems. The one on the right side. I guess I'll have to extend that one aswell? Note: The monitor has speakers built into the stand, which is also where the power is coming from, so it could be connected to them? Which would be great, since I could then forget about them Tongue
« Last Edit: March 25, 2013, 11:28:40 PM by Agerkvist » Logged
bernard
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« Reply #24 on: March 26, 2013, 06:12:03 PM »

hum. can you try to arrange things so the two orange flat cables remains like this? They appear more difficult to extend. That way you only need to extend the side one. It all depends on how you place your tablet. You might try to rotate the tablet if that can help.

FFC  or FPC are common way of calling theses. They are not FFCs but close enough.
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Agerkvist
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« Reply #25 on: March 26, 2013, 07:43:37 PM »

Hmm you know what, that actually seems doable - the tablet still isn't completely disassembled so I can't say for sure, but I'll find out asap.

What makes you say those are harder to extend than the side one? Because they're bigger = more signals? At this point they're both equally difficult, since I still don't know how to go about it, but I'm here to learn Smiley

And yeah haha I wanted to call them FFC's but figured that wasn't quite what they were Tongue
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Agerkvist
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« Reply #26 on: March 26, 2013, 08:53:49 PM »

Ok, so I just did a quick test with a piece of thick paper shaped as the wacom board and it seems entirely doable the way you proposed Bernard: Leaving the two big FFCs and extending the side one.

Why is that one even there? I'm pretty sure I've seen a few builds without it, but that could be me not really looking close enough.

Next step then, I guess, is to extend that side FFC and then try and put it all together for a quick "hello bongo" test.

I'll see what guides etc. on extending the FFC I can find, but any help I can get here would be greatly appreciated. I'm in completely unknown territory here Smiley

Why are those top FFCs harder to extend by the way? Isn't that exactly what's done here: http://www.bongofish.co.uk/wacom/wacom_pt7.html

I do think just extending the side one can work fine tho. The only upside to extending them all I can see right now, is the option to laying all the boards out on the table when testing - when keeping the big FFCs the main board has to be located behind the wacom board, which makes things abit trickier to handle - I think.
« Last Edit: March 26, 2013, 08:58:45 PM by Agerkvist » Logged
bernard
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« Reply #27 on: March 26, 2013, 09:04:30 PM »

FFC/FPC: Those orange beast are actually not cables!!  They are Flexible PCB that are "shaped" into cables in one end. So they use FPC and "create" a cable that is shaped like a FFC and goes into a FFC connector.

Why? First there is two out of one, second I see something that appears to be attached on the side (tell me if I am wrong) -- that part I have no clue how to deal with it.

The problem with "extending" is finding parts to do so. It is quite easy to find FFC cables, but the connectors are more problematic.

How many pins (wires) and what is the pitch?  pitch is the distance between 2 pins. To compute, measure the total width and divide by the number of "pins". Typical pitch for these is 0.5mm.
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bernard
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« Reply #28 on: March 26, 2013, 09:06:01 PM »

The reason the side connection is there is to feed the side circuit with data!!  Else it would be alone with no data to control the "rows".
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Agerkvist
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« Reply #29 on: March 26, 2013, 10:21:04 PM »

Well here's a few closeups of the orange beasts Tongue

http://db.tt/vyd5n3dg

http://db.tt/b1MDatrU

As far as I can tell they look pretty much the same as the ones seen here: http://www.bongofish.co.uk/wacom/wacom_pt7.html - the thing you mean is attached, is that the L shaped strip? The earthing strip? They're not connected at the moment, but if they help with earthing, I'll definately end up doing that. But yeah, I see why it would basically double the amount of extending to be done.

And don't get me wrong, I'm not arguing with you, I'm just trying to raise my awareness on this topic, since it's pretty much non existant at the moment.

The side one is 26 pins and the pitch is 0,5 mm (total width being 13 mm).

The orange beasts I'm pretty sure are 40 pins 0,5 pitch (20 mm wide),

Checking http://www.diy-beamer.com/ I can't find any 26 pin PCB connectors or FFC - but I from what I gather a "PCB Board + FFC cable 40PIN 0.5mm Pitch Set" is what I'd need to extend the orange beasts.

I love that name by the way - The Orange Beasts. Grrrwwrrrr. Smiley

I appreciate your help so very much bernard.

« Last Edit: March 26, 2013, 10:36:40 PM by Agerkvist » Logged
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