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Author Topic: Wolftiq (Intuos3 9x12 build)  (Read 13234 times)
zithe1
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« on: April 17, 2013, 09:35:56 AM »

After spending a few weeks researching, I've decided to bite the bullet and start purchasing the parts to make my own Cintiq. My first purchase was a Wacom Intuos 3 Large which I found on Ebay for a nice price and is arriving later today. I'll post a video unboxing of the tablet later today or tomorrow just in case I have any problems. (Link : http://www.ebay.com/itm/171018145522?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649) I'll be following the K-Jintiq build that others have had success with.

pntbll248 Smiley has been kind enough to sell me an extra LP150E05 for cheap and once I get it in my hands I'll begin ordering the Controller, PSU, adapter, extenders and inverter.

Upon searching my room, I came across something extremely useful. The housing for the controller and psu from an old 19" westinghouse, complete with VESA fixtures. Cheesy The space to mount stuff measures about 10.5x5.5". Plenty of space, but the nibs for the vesa mount might limit positioning. The housing might need to be altered. Still, I'm very glad to have something so useful already at my disposal rather than having to produce one. Think the plastic backing on the tablet will snap without some sort of backplate?

I'll keep updating this in the coming weeks!


* download.jpg (487.87 KB, 1600x1200 - viewed 536 times.)
« Last Edit: April 17, 2013, 10:08:54 AM by zithe1 » Logged
Aerendraca
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« Reply #1 on: April 17, 2013, 10:15:34 AM »

It's good to see another build starting, sounds like you've made some fairly comprehensive notes whilst reading the forum threads and have a pretty good idea of where you're headed. I look forward to see more.
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bernard
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« Reply #2 on: April 17, 2013, 03:23:44 PM »

Quote
Think the plastic backing on the tablet will snap without some sort of backplate?

I do not understand your question.  Wacom tablets are generally easy to dismantle.  The backplate is sometimes glued to the digitizer board, but the case itself isn't.
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zithe1
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« Reply #3 on: April 17, 2013, 06:44:34 PM »

I meant that since there won't be a lot of space additional support to the back wont be possible.
If I mount the VESA cage directly to the plastic on the back, will it crack when it's put on a mount?

Edit : I ran into a bit of an issue. The overlay on the tablet is too worn out to be useful. It's also colored. I didn't see anything mentioning the overlay on the K-jintiq builds other people have done. I'm guessing most replace it with the transparent one. I also was unable to find instructions on how to remove it, though I saw people who bought the overlays mentioned they came with instructions.

Edit2: Nevermind. I found a video online on how to clean them. The overlay just likes to give you trouble if you don't know what you're doing. Smiley
« Last Edit: April 18, 2013, 05:04:10 AM by zithe1 » Logged
bernard
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« Reply #4 on: April 18, 2013, 11:42:02 PM »

Would you mind sharing that video link?
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zithe1
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« Reply #5 on: April 19, 2013, 12:40:24 AM »

Sure thing. Ill upload it after I get out of work tonight. I figured out how to remove it last night. However, the damage wasn't mentioned on the listing. It still ends up being cheaper than normal, though.

Edit: here's the cleaning guide for an intuos3. http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=l6TFiBi86lI
« Last Edit: April 19, 2013, 03:09:41 AM by zithe1 » Logged
zithe1
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« Reply #6 on: May 05, 2013, 08:32:41 AM »

Update! Cheesy I have all the functioning parts I need to make this tablet a reality. I tested the LCD Panel and it has two small problems. One dead pixel which resides on the windows taskbar at the bottom of the screen, no biggie. The other issue is when the whole screen is black, a small spot of pixels is a very slight blue. My camera wouldn't be able to catch it. It doesn't bother me, as I'm sure this is the first of multiple tablets I'll be building. Smiley Not bad for new old stock screens that have been sitting for 5 years.

I tested drawing and to my surprise... NO JITTER AT ALL! Cheesy As expected the pen signal doesn't make it through the panel's metal frame, but I didn't expect the LCD's circuitry at the bottom to also block signal from going through.


* photo(1).JPG (346.87 KB. 918x1224 - viewed 513 times.)

* photo(2).JPG (364.91 KB. 1224x918 - viewed 565 times.)

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zithe1
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« Reply #7 on: May 06, 2013, 04:25:37 AM »

Uh oh! I accidentally disconnected one of the touch strips on my intuos 3. Does anyone know if this is fixable? The cord popped out of the strip itself, not from the board.
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pntbll248
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« Reply #8 on: May 07, 2013, 12:45:39 AM »

Unless it's an FPC (Flexible printed circuit), I'd imagine it should just snap back into place. Do you have any photos of the cord and the connection?

Also, I sent you a PM -- if you'd like a new screen, I'm more than happy to send ya one free of charge. I have, like, a hundred of these screens.  Tongue
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abeyance
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« Reply #9 on: May 07, 2013, 01:01:12 PM »

mmmm screens Tongue
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zithe1
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« Reply #10 on: May 08, 2013, 05:53:25 AM »

Unless it's an FPC (Flexible printed circuit), I'd imagine it should just snap back into place. Do you have any photos of the cord and the connection?

Also, I sent you a PM -- if you'd like a new screen, I'm more than happy to send ya one free of charge. I have, like, a hundred of these screens.  Tongue

It went back into place nicely. Also, I'll reply to your PM. Smiley

Somehow I managed to knock out the LED that tells you when the pen comes in contact with the drawing surface. No big loss.

Last night I separated the acrylic drawing surface from the gray ABS plastic layer below. It was held together really well with some rubbery double sided tape that I'd like to track down a roll of for my own use. It was a time consuming process I recommend patience and pacing with. I used a butter knife to widge my way between the two layers and slowly pried different spots so I could hear the tape slowly peeling. Then, when all the edges had some give, I started prying a little harder. At that point it would separate quickly and make a loud "Crack!" the first of which scared me half to death, thinking I had broken it. All is good so far!

Today I started stripping the paint off of the acrylic layer. I first removed the touch strips with an exacto knife so I could resize them, which I plan to do tomorrow.

Stripping Item list:
Citristrip
disposable nitrile gloves*
cotton balls
newspapers for a surface
a spray bottle filled with water and dish detergent to remove the citristrip more easily when it had sat and dried

*Potentially useful Overkill glove advice:
Nitrile has very good chemical resistant properties. However, disposable ones are too thin and still won't hold up. 5 gloves fell apart from coming into extended contact with citristrip. I'd recommend using actual chemical gloves with no fabric lining. The fabric can hold onto harsh chemicals and repeatedly expose your skin to them if you unknowingly get a hole in them, plus they're harder to clean.

It's easier to test unlined gloves for holes. Simply fill them with water and put them under a small amount of pressure and check for leaks. You could also take the opportunity to wash and dry them if they have no holes and save them (and monies Cheesy) for other junk. If you did that with lined gloves the lining would get all gooey and wet. Blech!

Back on topic, I kept reapplying citristrip to the acrylic over and over until I came up with this result:


* paaaint.JPG (462.91 KB. 1163x873 - viewed 569 times.)


There's still a teeny bit in the corners, but my biggest concern is the white staining. I know I read somewhere that this could be removed chemically, but I'm going to have to do some more reading tonight. I've considered polishing the area where the screen is going to be to improve clarity, but it might be ok after removing the white stuff. I have a knack for creating more work for myself.

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Skream
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« Reply #11 on: May 08, 2013, 12:30:36 PM »

Quote
Last night I separated the acrylic drawing surface from the gray ABS plastic layer below. It was held together really well with some rubbery double sided tape that I'd like to track down a roll of for my own use. It was a time consuming process I recommend patience and pacing with. I used a butter knife to widge my way between the two layers and slowly pried different spots so I could hear the tape slowly peeling. Then, when all the edges had some give, I started prying a little harder. At that point it would separate quickly and make a loud "Crack!" the first of which scared me half to death, thinking I had broken it. All is good so far!

I did that the other night with my i3, freaked me out when I heard the first crack.

I think they used toffee adhesive tape.
« Last Edit: May 08, 2013, 12:37:31 PM by skream » Logged
zithe1
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« Reply #12 on: May 09, 2013, 09:09:10 AM »

Today I was curious. Why does the plastic turn white when stripping? It turns out that when I used citristrip and washed away the stuff with dish detergent, it when from being clear to IMMEDIATELY turning white. I'm absolutely sure that trying to wash it with soap causes it. Next time I'll try it with just water. Has anyone else used soap to remove stripping compound?

Edit: Nope. I must need mineral spirits or something to remove this stuff.
« Last Edit: May 09, 2013, 10:32:22 AM by zithe1 » Logged
zithe1
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« Reply #13 on: April 07, 2014, 05:13:25 AM »

Well, it's been nearly a year since I've touched my project so it took me all day to find the parts but I did. I've missed this forum.

Upon putting the parts together and testing the cintiq I realize why I may have abandoned it last year. It's all still functioning but terrible. However, this is partly due to the original plastic cover being stained when I removed the paint so I used a sheet of lexan, which my decade old VERY used pen has trouble gliding across. If anyone has a pen in decent shape they'd like to sell I'd love to buy one if you're reading this. Wacom charges 70 dollars for them and at that price I'd rather buy a monoprice tablet and start from scratch.

My biggest issue with the tablet is actually calibrating the digitizer. On the left side of the screen, the cursor is two pixels to the left of the pen tip and two pixels to  the right on the right side of the screen. Weirds me out a little.
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zithe1
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« Reply #14 on: April 29, 2014, 06:31:31 PM »

I ordered a brand new grip pen and to my surprise it's shaped exactly like the Intuos4 pen which I've always loved. It's so much more comfortable than the old grip pen. I've also gotten rid of all the jitter using a faraday cage around the board with the vga/dvi ports and lifting the Simtiq on a different level.

Unfortunately when adjusting the screen I managed to damage a ribbon cable. It's currently working taped in place but I ordered a replacement screen for when it finally craps the bed. I also am still having difficulty getting rid of the drifting on the sides of the screen. It's making it impossible for me to draw happily.
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