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Author Topic: Intuos 2 12"x18" and samsung S19B150 19"  (Read 17191 times)
JaseBristol
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« on: May 06, 2013, 02:10:26 PM »

Hi,

Thought I'd show you my build, just in case I need digging out of a tight spot later!

I had a plan to see how this one goes as a DIY project, with basic (cheaper) kit before splashing out on newer versions of tablets and expensive IPS screens.
I had a friend that kindly gave me his Intuos 2 XD-1218-u (for a couple of beers etc.)
I decided not to buy an expensive 21" IPS screen on my first attempt, so found a Samsung Syncmaster  S19B150N for £40 from cash converters, this was LED with external power source which I know makes things easier.

Unscrewing the Intuos 2 seemed basic, screws in the back and only 4 components, the digitizer board, polystyrene board and a metal plate, connected together with a PCB board to USB.

The monitor was tricky, there are no screws showing, so after some heavy handling, (which I know is a no no!) the front fascia had snap fittings which popped off. I removed the metal casing around the LCD panel, and the LED strip was taped to this on one side.

The photos below, show the stage I'm currently at.....

[ Attachment: You are not allowed to view attachments ]

The Wacom is open from the top with digitizer showing, a piece of paper in-between the screen.
The screen has all the layers separated and easily moveable,(not by choice) with the LED strip held to one side, I think the cable (CCFL?) will be long enough when putting everything into the casing?

Advice is now sort on steps to take from here, I have been reading various builds and tutorials.

I understand I need to insulate things now, I have some foil backed plastic sheet from a printers. do i put this between the monitor and digitizer?
How would I secure the LCD screen as the different sheets are loose, I see some people have used insulating tape on the side?
can I plan to have the screen PCB, folding back underneath the polystyrene and house it at the bottom of the injection moulded casing? with the leads coming out the bottom?

and most important create a decent name for it !

Thanks for any advice,
Jase 

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JaseBristol
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« Reply #1 on: May 14, 2013, 07:32:15 PM »

Update on my build so far,

No name as yet !  Undecided

I have decided to use some 3mm foamex strips which I can cut myself with a scaple. I added these at the side and bottom of the LCD screen which holds it in place, and also keeps the perspex panel from touching the screen. I had to have a few attempts at getting the height correct!

I tried some non metallic shielding bags from Maplin stores,(shown in the photo) but felt this wasn't as strong as sandwiching foil, so eventually went for this approach.

In all the excitement of trying to shield the monitor pcb, I must have damaged one of the small brown tabs that attaches it to the LCD panel, this caused my screen to go funny!

I eventually got around this, by adding another foamex square above it so, when the lid closes down it causes pressure and corrects itself, I don't know how, but it works!

I managed to cut down screws that are the same diameter just longer, so that i can put the original cover over.
I cut out the window with a Dremel, which is always needed in these types of projects.

I have kept the power, controller and VGA connection outside the unit in a separate box, which I intend to screw to the legs, once i have finished them,

My next challenge , I would like to extend the FFC cable and trying to calculate what is needed? any help would be grateful.
 

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Aerendraca
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« Reply #2 on: May 20, 2013, 10:15:31 PM »

Nice fix on the ribbon tab, im glad it wasn't the end of a great build. As for the ffc cable, you should be able to get a longer one from somewhere like mouser, rs components, arrow, or the likes, but, because this particular ffc links the lvds to the tft timing circuit lengthening might make the picture slightly fuzzy. It's worth a try though. All you need to do is work out what the pitch of the cable is (how far apart the conductive parts are), and how many of them there are, then search the net for one which is as long as you require.
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JaseBristol
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« Reply #3 on: May 20, 2013, 10:35:13 PM »

Thanks, I'm on the search Smiley
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JaseBristol
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« Reply #4 on: July 15, 2013, 02:27:41 PM »

Well, I thought I would update you on all the fun I've been having, since my last post.

I'll try and keep it swift, because I have learnt the hard way, but there is a good ending to this story...so far!

Since my last post, where i had used a cheap screen enclosed in my old Intuos 2 case, I progressed to creating a stand from an old monitor,
this is a no no, with large screens (19"+), as it has a centre of gravity, and if you push down on one of the sides, or lean on the edge, it will topple backwards, in my case with a bang!
This only happened a few times and then it was no more!
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JaseBristol
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« Reply #5 on: July 15, 2013, 03:19:38 PM »

Good news, I've caught the bug and determined to finish this build.

So after a few tears I decided to invest in the best monitor for the board size and affordable price and start again.

LG IPS224V 22 Inch HDMI IPS Monitor.



It has a external power supply, IPS and i think i read someone else had tried using a similar model.
I carefully stripped it down, this time thinking about where each component will be placed and how the cables will connect.





This then allowed me to do the all important test, without any shielding, and it worked!


I now had to consider how this would all fit together, as the monitor is wider than the active area, I needed to lock the screen in place so it doesn't move around. Luckily as I'm in the design industry, I have a friend with a cutting table, and having drawn up technical plans he was able to cut two 3mm foamex panels, to hold the LCD screen in place on the board. I attached this to the digitiser with double sided tape.





After more consideration of the stand and casing, I opted for a cheaper easel type stand, if you look closely at the top left corner I have also decided to strip a mouse down to use the scroll wheel as a zoom function.
I have also dabbled with stripping a keyboard down to create a line of 10 hot keys that I could have along the top, but I'm going to have to add that at a later date maybe.
This is the state it is in at present, with copper tape shielding, a box at the back holding the PCB and having cut out the buttons from the original monitor and stuck this around the back.
The only problem is when I applied small heat sinks on the back of the aluminium holding the LEDs I managed to bend the strip of lights, which is causing me a nightmare to try and source. (I will ask this in the help section).

I am now doing the drawings for the outer case, which will be routed MDF, sandwiched in layers which the acrylic sheet can sit ontop.
Fingers crossed !









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Aerendraca
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« Reply #6 on: July 15, 2013, 09:15:06 PM »

Nice work, looks good so far. So you had no jitter at all? Amazing, this is a screen worth noting for sure. I look forward to seeing how the final case looks, I have a similar idea to get birch plywood routed just don't have the funds to do it at the moment.
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MikeyN
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« Reply #7 on: July 19, 2013, 10:59:56 PM »

Looks like a cracking build so far !.. Smiley
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Aerendraca
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« Reply #8 on: November 07, 2013, 09:49:14 PM »

How's it going with this build, did you get it finished?

I've been spending way too much time researching tft panels and strangely enough I think I have settled on the panel which I suspect is the one you have used in you build. I can't see from the pictures and I can't find the info on the web about the panel in the IPS224V, but I think your panel is an LG LM215WF3 (SLC7?) which i believe is also used in the Apple Imac 21.5" screen, is this correct?

The picture is supposed to be superb, colour good, and viewing angles great due to IPS technology. Have you noticed any jitter issues at all now some time has passed and you've presumably had a chance to play with it some more?

Could you recommend this panel based on you experience.

Cheers in advance.
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JaseBristol
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« Reply #9 on: December 09, 2013, 04:47:34 PM »

Hi,

Sorry for the delay, started a new job and this device isn't PAC tested !

I have uploaded a photo of work in progress, I'm at present putting it through the testing stages,
Had a lot of trouble calibrating the pen, but seems to be close at the moment.
having trouble finding cheap acrylic extruded sheet at 2.5mm as the thickness is 2mm at the moment.
 There was a lot of heat coming from the light strip, which I have added cut down with heat shrinks from Maplin, and bought a USB fan (sticking out the side) to suck some heat out.
The mouse allows me to scroll in and out, but not sideways, and I have recently bought a BT mini keyboard, for shortcut keys. but I'd like to program it not to have to use the Ctrl + button so much as this is not an easy manover single handed, I have had a look at autohotkey, but I can't write scripts, so unless someone has one I can amend, I'm not sure how to address shortcuts easily?

I will paint the case and cover the screen, but these are all aesthetics.

If you want me to do any tests on the screen I can show you how much jitter I get in the edges & corners, (don't know how to measure it?)

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profaldo
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« Reply #10 on: December 09, 2013, 05:42:22 PM »

What do you think about having a multi touch touchpad like this one:

Logitech Rechargeable Touchpad T650

http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Rechargeable-Touchpad-Multi-Touch-Navigation/dp/B0093H4WT6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1386607199&sr=8-1&keywords=touchpad


It is really small and could replace your mouse completely, and it is wireless.
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bernard
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« Reply #11 on: December 09, 2013, 08:19:21 PM »

Logitech Touchpad: Can it work with Photoshop or ArtRage to do stuff like "panning" (or even rotating) the canvas?
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profaldo
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« Reply #12 on: December 10, 2013, 04:36:28 AM »

It is intended to replace the mouse. You can also configure the gestures. I am guessing it should work.
Also for the stand, you can take a look at HP monitor stands. They have one which can adjust in height and rotate between landscape and portrait mode. I bought one on eBay yesterday for 25 USD including shipping.
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profaldo
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« Reply #13 on: December 10, 2013, 07:47:34 AM »

I just did some research on the touchpad - seems that the pinch and zoom does not work on photoshop.

Here is the link:

http://forums.logitech.com/t5/Mice-and-Pointing-Devices/Customizing-the-T650-Trackpad/td-p/909990

Will update if I get more info.
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DaBotz
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« Reply #14 on: November 06, 2014, 02:56:04 AM »

Her, I know that this thread has been dead a while and all, but couldn't be considered a successful build? It was brought to a good stage of usability, and the information about the final choice for the monitor could be useful for others that want to build over the XD-1218s...



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