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Author Topic: Experimenting with the HP 2710p Tablet PC digitizer (SU-12W18A-01X)  (Read 58593 times)
Aerendraca
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« Reply #180 on: October 25, 2013, 10:13:38 AM »

Your experience with sellers other than NJYTouch is sad to hear, I was considering purchasing a controller from someone other than NJYTouch but now I think otherwise. At least now you have a working panel and so your build can continue!  Grin
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dracomenda
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« Reply #181 on: August 12, 2016, 08:07:26 AM »

So I have stumbled across your thread and am going to resurrect it. I know, nothing like a necro.... annnnywaaaay. Starting work on the HP elitebook 2730p screen and digitizer. waiting for the controller and the teensy to get here in tandem with a PC build. hopefully i can also post video of the ordeal to link to. I have pulled as much information as a can from this thread and if you notice have added it to the back of the panel for quick reference while i work.
« Last Edit: August 12, 2016, 08:11:01 AM by dracomenda » Logged
ThrowingChicken
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« Reply #182 on: August 13, 2016, 10:51:01 PM »

Let us know how it goes.  I never got a controller for the monitor to work and I just didn't want to keep sinking money into it. 
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dracomenda
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« Reply #183 on: August 13, 2016, 11:50:29 PM »

I have a few of these screens, so hopefully at least one will work with the controller. sadly they take forever to get here... will update as soon as parts arrive.
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dracomenda
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« Reply #184 on: September 11, 2016, 09:01:58 PM »

So an update I have ordered the controllers, I found one through a wholesaler who had access to the actual laptops to test if the controller worked before sending me one. the teensy is on its way as well, ill need to have a little help with the programming of the teensy but the hardware setup won't be an issue.
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Pesho
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« Reply #185 on: September 14, 2016, 09:14:49 AM »

I have a couple of 2730p screens here, they work really well. Probably the best choice for 12'' builds because they come with the chemically-hardened front glass already on there. For anyone considering them - see if you can find BOE/HYDIS HX121WX1's instead of HV121WX4's. The HX series of panels are transflective, making them readable in direct sunlight (what HP's marketing team are calling OutdoorViewâ„¢). Digitizer works both with the teensy and with direct serial on Linux.

Let us know how it goes.  I never got a controller for the monitor to work and I just didn't want to keep sinking money into it.  

What was your issue with the controller? I've been able to drive mine just fine... About it getting hot - that sounds like an LVDS cable inserted backwards or the wrong way. The way they attach to the controller board is tricky - nothing is marked, and there are more pins than on the connector. Also the connector on the LCD's side can be inserted both ways making it even easier to mess up. Can you post pics of the connectors and setup?
« Last Edit: September 14, 2016, 11:13:12 AM by Pesho » Logged
LTN121t
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« Reply #186 on: September 18, 2016, 05:47:12 AM »

Quote
The way they attach to the controller board is tricky - nothing is marked, and there are more pins than on the connector. Also the connector on the LCD's side can be inserted both ways making it even easier to mess up. Can you post pics of the connectors and setup?

For the LCDs and controller boards, most of them are LVDS so the pins should be common. Datasheets are available for most LCD panels with detailed information and pinouts for the connector, which are different for every LCD. Even if the connectors are the same, often the pin arrangement is different. My controller board had the LVDS pinout on the bottom, so it would just be a matter of reading the datasheet and getting the right wire to the right pin.

However, for the new LED LCDs, I have found that they need extra pins (PWM, brightness, LED enable, LED power (usually above 5 volts) etc) that are not supplied on many LVDS controller boards which only provide the LVDS signal and power for the display's logic board. I have no idea how you would use a LED panel with a 'universal' controller, but I have seen eBay sellers selling specific controller boards for some LED LCDs. Don't know if they work, though.
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dracomenda
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« Reply #187 on: September 18, 2016, 06:05:00 AM »

I ordered one pre-assembled, from a usually reputable place, hooked it up today, just about burned my house down (ok just my desk, but still). I emailed them, they are offering up damages and to replace the screen and controller, at this point i just want my money back and compensation for my wacom screen. will update when possible.
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Pesho
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« Reply #188 on: September 18, 2016, 10:27:46 AM »

I have no idea how you would use a LED panel with a 'universal' controller, but I have seen eBay sellers selling specific controller boards for some LED LCDs. Don't know if they work, though.

The LED-related wires come out of the same connector on the LCD's side, they're just separated out to a different connector on the board's side and plug in where the inverter normally goes. Way more compact. Newer controller boards are designed with that in mind so that you can use them with both CCFL and LED panels. Got mine off Aliexpress, not sure if they're on eBay.


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I ordered one pre-assembled, from a usually reputable place, hooked it up today, just about burned my house down (ok just my desk, but still). I emailed them, they are offering up damages and to replace the screen and controller, at this point i just want my money back and compensation for my wacom screen. will update when possible.

Oh shit, what happened? Going up in flames is definitely not what i would've expected...

« Last Edit: September 18, 2016, 01:12:50 PM by Pesho » Logged
dracomenda
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« Reply #189 on: September 18, 2016, 05:00:00 PM »

it looks like they routed the 12v rail into a mosfet and then into the backlight feed voltage rail of the lcd board. screen is no more, the have offered to replace it and are trying to figure out what happened
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Pesho
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« Reply #190 on: September 18, 2016, 07:26:01 PM »

The backlight on these panels is 12V so it sounds about right? Unless the connector was inserted backwards and you're feeding that 12V into the 3.3V LVDS side... As i mentioned before, the connector is tricky because it can fit backwards. Or perhaps you got a defective mosfet...
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dracomenda
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« Reply #191 on: September 18, 2016, 07:35:21 PM »

it blew the high voltage backlight transformer on the right side of the board before the board caught fire, so my guess is a bad or incorrect mosfet.
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Pesho
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« Reply #192 on: September 18, 2016, 07:41:23 PM »

Can you post pictures? LED backlights don't need high voltage, it's CCFLs that need high-voltage AC (via inverter) to work. If they supplied a second board that would likely be a DC-DC converter.
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dracomenda
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« Reply #193 on: September 20, 2016, 08:57:52 AM »

looks like i am better off ordering a 12.1" kit instead, anyone know of a good US supplier, i can move the wacom pad and the safety screen over to the new kit...
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LTN121t
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« Reply #194 on: September 20, 2016, 12:52:45 PM »


The LED-related wires come out of the same connector on the LCD's side, they're just separated out to a different connector on the board's side and plug in where the inverter normally goes. Way more compact. Newer controller boards are designed with that in mind so that you can use them with both CCFL and LED panels. Got mine off Aliexpress, not sure if they're on eBay.

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What's the foil for? Though I suspect it's got something to do with the 'jitter' problem...
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