As requested, here are some photos of the build so far to show how it's shielded and what it looks like. I did discover that the offset cursor was due to my own error when I cut the center section of the Intuos to mount the LCD screen. It turns out I didn't cut the hole high enough up and it wasn't allowing the LCD to sit in line with the Wacom sensor. Cutting the plastic back some more on top resulted in the cursor lining up as close as it can be when parallax is considered.
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The screen as it currently looks "assembled" on a modified stand from an old HP 1530 monitor that allows 180 degree rotation as well as tilt.
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The screen sitting on the tablet. Behind the Rust-oleum orange painter's tape is a layer of copper shielding tape that wraps around the perimeter of the screen and is linked via a wire to the ground it to the back control enclosure.
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I also added a little bit of copper tape over the screws that mount the control enclosure to the Intuos and covered them with painter's tape to prevent electrical connection with the Wacom shield.
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Screen assembly with cut out center section put in place. I'm still not sure if the double-sided foam tape I bought is going to be too thick or not to allow a tight attachment of the top cover.
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The back Hammond control enclosure with boards in place. The entire case is lined in copper shielding tape with additional shielding tape over a layer of painter's tape around the inverter. Painter's tape was also used to separate the LCD controller board and keypad PCBs from the contacting the bottom of the case. I also ran a ground wire between the ground screw for the inverter and the ground point on the LCD controller. The back of the Intuos was painted black to "match" the black powder-coated Hammond enclosure. The best part about this case is that, aside from about 1" of the LCD controller cable, everything is contained within either it or the Intuos itself
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A shot of my button extensions for the keypad. made using some 6-32 screws, no. 6 washers, shortened compression springs and nickel plated acorn nuts. You can also see in the previous photo where I had to add a couple layers of foam tape to prevent the PCB from rotating when the buttons are pressed.
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A final "beauty shot" of the screen turned on. This was taken before I modified the center section to slide the LCD screen up more. I've got a little touch up work to do to my paint job since there's now about a 3/16" space at the bottom of the screen that the paint isn't covering and it's allowing light bleed through.
I'm still at a complete loss on my jitter issues. I've literally shielded everything that I can think of to shield, but I'm still getting some amount of jitter at any refresh rate I try in Powerstrip. Using either 56hz or 58hz seem to result in the least amount of jitter in the center of the screen, but it's still noticeably present along the edges of the screen. I've also noticed that my jitter is almost completely unaffected by whether the metal trim ring around the LCD is attached or not, which really makes me think my problem may be the screen itself (not the model of screen but the physical screen I have in my possession). I'm also curious as to how much of the back of the CCFL shield had to be cut off in the K-Jintiq build (and other similar builds) since I cut mine down quite a bit, but I've got roughly 1/4" at the top of my screen where the shield is that the pen won't read through. Maybe I need to cut it down even further.
I'm still considering putting together a second build using a screen and digitizer from a tablet PC as this build is totally unusable in it's current jittery state. I know the HP TX2000 screens work and the digitizer is USB, but the poor viewing angles and color of the TN LCD has me concerned (something I hate about my TC4400 and I've heard is worse with the addition of the touchpanel). I've looked at possibly getting the LCD screen assembly from a Lenovo X200 or X201 since LED backlit IPS screens are available for them (though they may use a 20-pin connector instead of 30-pin), but I don't know if the digitizer is UART or USB. Another option I considered was the screen and digitizer from a Fujitsu T5010 or T2010, but I seem to remember reading that most of the digitizers Fujitsu uses are UART. The screen/digitizer assembly from a T2010 was suggested in a tablet PC forum to replace the screen and digitizer for a HP TM2, but they weren't sure if the connections were the same for the 12W03AS-01X digitizer in the Fujitsu. I guess that at least, as of 2010 when the forum topic was started, the Hydis HV121WX6 screen from the T2010 was one of the best screens available. Any idea whether that digitizer is UART or USB? Ideally if I went this route, I'd want to use both the LCD and digitizer from the same tablet PC as it would minimize the possibility of any jitter occurring and right now I can pick up a complete and working Fujitsu T2010 for about $80 used or buy a new replacement LCD screen assembly for a HP TX2000 for about $90. Decisions, decisions.