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Author Topic: SU-13W02E-03A Not connecting  (Read 4366 times)
AlexEvangelou
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« on: September 06, 2013, 10:27:30 PM »

Hey all, I recently started working on converting my old Macbook unibody into a tablet. I ordered a bunch of SU-13W02E-03A 13.3" digitizers off eBay. Figured what the hell that way I can break a few.

Given all the footwork you guys have done here I seemed pretty easy to get this guy set up with USB but it won't even recognize. I've tried using a separate 3.3v supply on pin 13, using a voltage regulator from the 5v USB, using the 5v USB straight (Why not? I've got extras). I've tried connecting the shielding and signal grounds together and connecting them separately. Still nothing.

With 3.3v on pin 13 I see 3.3v on pins 12 and 10 and 3.0v on pin 3. All others are low. This is with or without the USB plugged in. Pulling pins 12 or 11 high or low doesn't seem to change anything.


Had D+ and D- switched, stupid cable not using standard colors. Cheesy


[Edit: Leaving this up here as a testament to my stupidity and to possibly help others.]
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gordon13
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« Reply #1 on: September 17, 2013, 12:52:18 PM »

Out of interest, how did you make it work? Searching for that digitiser, I found this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/35-New-Wacom-Digitizer-SU-13W02E-03A-Sensor-Boards-/190899242014?pt=US_Tablets&hash=item2c727b441e

35 boards for the price of a Bamboo tablet!

Is it simply a matter of connecting it to something like a teensy usb?
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bernard
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« Reply #2 on: September 19, 2013, 02:29:28 PM »

Not even required to have a teensy.  It is directly the USB signals (D+ and D- and Ground)  you have to solder them to a USB plug. (like you take a USB cable that you cut and solder the wires. The catch is that there is still a bit of electronic required: the power out of a USB plug is 5 volts but this board required 3.3 volts.  You need a way to step down the voltage.  An overkill solution is to use a Teensy with it's 1$ regulator for that. Actually, you could use that 3.3V regulator alone! There are other real-cheap tricks to "step down" the voltage like using diodes.  You can certainly find bare 5V -> 3.3V converters. Some have found that for real cheap on the forum.

A quick search on ebay and found a regulator on a breakout board. This would be easier and safer to use than a "bare" regulator component and would be electrically better than diodes:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/AMS1117-3-3-DC-DC-Step-Down-Voltage-Regulator-Adapter-Convertor-/400341720627

You then need to find a penenabled or ultrapad/digitizer II-compatible pen. Not all pens have the same features. This will work with an eraser and will work with a pen that has two side buttons as well.
« Last Edit: September 19, 2013, 04:12:39 PM by bernard » Logged
gordon13
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« Reply #3 on: September 19, 2013, 05:41:28 PM »

Oh wow that's really awesome! Didn't think it would be that simple.
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bernard
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« Reply #4 on: September 19, 2013, 06:36:39 PM »

Someone on the forum bought a big batch of those and wanted to gave me one (I already have 2 of them!), I believe he had too much and I am sure you could get one from him for real cheap. (you gonna have to do the searching on the forum to find him. I think it is worth the effort.).
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gordon13
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« Reply #5 on: September 19, 2013, 07:55:41 PM »

Ill have to look for this person at some point, but I really need to finish my current project before starting something else Tongue
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AlexEvangelou
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« Reply #6 on: September 26, 2013, 09:12:18 PM »

I also bought up a bunch, 50 for $100 how can you go wrong? (I knew I would mess up a couple Tongue)

I'll post a full build report pretty soon, it's almost finished. Just waiting on a new LVDS display cable so I can splice two of them together.
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TheIdeaCan
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« Reply #7 on: October 02, 2013, 07:25:38 PM »

Any idea if there is a difference between the SU-13W02E-01A and these SU-13W02E-03A digitizers? I'm curious if the 01A version is USB as well. If so, the LCD screen assembly from a Asus R1F (that uses the 01A version of the board) could potentially be used for a relatively inexpensive build. I'm considering picking up the screen assembly from an R1F and if it turns out to not be USB, would one of you guys that bought a bunch of the 03A digitizers be willing to sell one to a guy in Ohio?
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bernard
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« Reply #8 on: October 02, 2013, 08:01:49 PM »

My guess is they are almost the same. Looking at the proliferation of models, I am leaning towards thinking Wacom creates a new number for each OEM integration.

If one had that Asus R1F model running, there could be ways to know if there is a USB Wacom device in there.


I think you have a good plan there. (if it is serial). I am sure you will be able to find one from someone on the forum for cheap.
« Last Edit: October 02, 2013, 08:04:15 PM by bernard » Logged
k4ck7788
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« Reply #9 on: July 03, 2014, 09:58:10 AM »

Hello i just got a little question,

why is the teensy board not needed for that digtizer?
In this post it is also used for an similar digitizer: http://forum.bongofish.co.uk/index.php?topic=2378.0

WaxBee is running on the teensy right?, but how is that possible with only an regulator component?

EDIT: I found this answer in your older posts:
Quote
The more recent ones (typically widescreen), have a USB interface and are fairly easy to interface (still requires some effort and delicate soldering). It did not work all the time. Others are serial based and in that case, you can use WaxBee to "convert it"  to USB OR find a way to connect it to your machine through a serial port (we have limited success with serial boards). We do not completely understand the pinout.  There is now way to know if a board is Serial or USB-based, so when you see that connecting with USB fails, you cannot be sure why.

Thanks for your help
« Last Edit: July 03, 2014, 10:05:11 AM by k4ck7788 » Logged
Aerendraca
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« Reply #10 on: July 03, 2014, 01:34:35 PM »

Asked and answered your own question, that's very efficient!!

But to summarize, some of these have USB capability out of the box and some are serial; The serial ones need a Teensy to convert to USB.
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k4ck7788
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« Reply #11 on: July 03, 2014, 06:17:25 PM »

Is it possible to use the waxbee software with usb-only digitizers?

Why was the usb support not implemented into waxbee?

How should we then do mapping if the screen is bigger then the board.
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Aerendraca
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« Reply #12 on: July 29, 2014, 06:45:02 AM »

Sorry, I didn't notice this post before now. Waxbee is not required for USB digitizers because all waxbee does is translate serial to USB in a way that allows the PC to use common USB drivers. Since USB only tablets are already USB this step is redundant.

I believe mapping is done via the wacom driver software.
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