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Author Topic: Serenitiq 2 - Wacom Intuos 4 L + Rozsnyo DP2MBPR controller + LTN154YL01  (Read 51842 times)
Aerendraca
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« Reply #180 on: September 12, 2015, 04:08:50 PM »

Excellent detailed tip, thanks so much!
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Aerendraca
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« Reply #181 on: October 26, 2015, 08:24:45 AM »

I wish I was posting some more interesting news, but hey it is what it is. Since I posted last I have been waiting on a 0.4mm pitch to dip adapter board from China so that I might use an IDE cable to join the screen and electronics to the controller boards. Well this turned up after a months wait but it was the wrong board, the company sent a 0.5mm board. So I'm playing the waiting game at the moment until the correct board is received.

It's a pain because the adapter board needs to be in place before I can work on the cooling for the LEDs. So much waiting.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I decided to hunt down another seller of the same board and have ordered a few from them as the other company seems to be taking ages to respond to messages; I'm sure I'll find a use for the additional boards if they ever do arrive.
« Last Edit: November 04, 2015, 07:38:09 AM by Aerendraca » Logged
Aerendraca
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« Reply #182 on: October 26, 2015, 03:21:32 PM »

By way of an excuse to post something more relevant, here's an overview of how things will be connected in diagram form:


* Serenitiq2_OverviewDiagram.jpg (428.76 KB. 1920x1080 - viewed 366 times.)


The IDE cable will be the main connection between the tablet overlay and the connection to power and the computer. Both the screen and the USB power & data will be fed through the same IDE cable; The IDE cable should be sufficient to send the data required for the TFT panel without loss although it may need to have some shielding tape wrapped around it.

The Arduino will be almost maxed out controlling the 9x OLEDs, 2x Capacitive breakouts (each capable of 12 touch buttons), a haptic motor driver and vibration motor, and a haptic clicker (it's really a small speaker but I'll have it clicking when a button is touched). The Arduino will also be sending HID data to the computer for the capacitive touch buttons to act as hotkeys; I may add more buttons in the future (there's certainly plenty of scope and spare resources). Coding is yet to be done, but I've got each part working independently so I should think this will be a straight forward task.

So I remain waiting for this adapter board, in the meantime perhaps I will work some more on the electronics....... 

« Last Edit: October 26, 2015, 03:24:14 PM by Aerendraca » Logged
DaBotz
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« Reply #183 on: October 26, 2015, 07:45:03 PM »

I read a scant review on an Huion tablet with capacitive buttons - essentially, it appears that they "click" simply when the index enters a button area, before an actual touch.

Have you had any issue with this?
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The most incredible artist of... Barbanza?
Aerendraca
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« Reply #184 on: October 26, 2015, 11:01:23 PM »

This shouldn't be a problem with this setup because the key activation occurs before the click, so it should only sound if the button had been fully touched and not otherwise. Interestingly when there is not vibration or 'click' noise, the touch of a capacitive button feels disassociated and odd; The 'click' on it's own is nice, the 'click' and vibration together feels right.

We'll have to see how it all goes when it's all put together though, perhaps I will have issues then?
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DaBotz
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« Reply #185 on: November 09, 2015, 07:39:25 PM »

Interestingly when there is not vibration or 'click' noise, the touch of a capacitive button feels disassociated and odd; The 'click' on it's own is nice, the 'click' and vibration together feels right.

We'll have to see how it all goes when it's all put together though, perhaps I will have issues then?

I didn't think about it, but it stands to reason... without feedback, you don't really feel as you actually pushed the button.
One of the things I do not really like in my Android tablet is the "virtual keyboard"... if it wasn't wauy bigger than it, I'd use always the K400 logitech as its keyboard-touchpad. A lot of things are much better, with that.
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Aerendraca
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« Reply #186 on: November 09, 2015, 10:53:37 PM »

It really is a strange thing, pressing a button without feedback makes it feel like the result was coincidence rather than an inevitably controlled action. Having interaction with a device in this way makes you lose faith in its ability to perform precisely 100% of the time because, you're never quite sure if it was your action that caused something to happen.

I recommend anyone to try it out, you'll prefer the feedback options for sure!

Still waiting for that adapter board; China post is super slow at the moment, I guess due to the Christmas period coming. I did however get acknowledgement from the company today that they did send the wrong part and will send me the correct one - which I imagine I won't see until the beginning of 2016 - still, I did source another supplier so hopefully their parts will arrive soon. Other than this there's no further progress for now.
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Aerendraca
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« Reply #187 on: November 23, 2015, 06:24:25 PM »

Ok slight change of plan. It seems that the new 0.4mm pitch PCBs I ordered are massive and simply wont fit in the case so I've had a change of plan which I think may have worked out for the better (so long as it actually works).

The new idea:

* MBPR to IDC diagram.jpg (251.61 KB. 1770x759 - viewed 248 times.)


Here you can see I plan to abandon the adapter PCBs and go straight to the IDC connector. This is better as it means that the space required to adapt the MBPR connector to IDC is about as small as it can be, leaving more room to try and sort some LED cooling later.

« Last Edit: November 23, 2015, 06:26:28 PM by Aerendraca » Logged
Aerendraca
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« Reply #188 on: November 23, 2015, 06:40:56 PM »

I started working on this adapter idea today and have successfully completed one side (the TFT side). Here's a pictorial representation of 3 hours of my life earlier today:

1.) Remember this cable? I wouldn't worry it was a long time ago that I made this thing:

* WP_20151123_003.jpg (54.22 KB. 640x480 - viewed 252 times.)


2.) Time to undo all those hours of work; I strip back the EMF tape to reveal the green wires that I grew to hate way back when:

* WP_20151123_004.jpg (62.72 KB. 640x480 - viewed 244 times.)


3.) Snipping the wires back I carefully lined up each one and anchored them in the V-pins of the IDC connector. Sadly the green wires are too fine to have had their insulation pierced by the V-pins:

* WP_20151123_009.jpg (66.32 KB. 640x480 - viewed 239 times.)


4.) Solder didn't work to break the insualtion either which meant that each wire had to be stripped and wrapped around each pin prior to soldering:

* WP_20151123_011.jpg (107.93 KB. 640x480 - viewed 250 times.)


5.) With the soldering done it was time to reapply the EMF tape:

* WP_20151123_013.jpg (91.4 KB. 640x480 - viewed 252 times.)


6.) Job done!! 3-hours later and every pin is checked for continuity and all tested working!!

* WP_20151123_020.jpg (41.49 KB. 640x480 - viewed 251 times.)



Tomorrow I hope to tackle the other side of the wire. It's getting there, soooooo slowly. Wink

« Last Edit: November 23, 2015, 08:59:50 PM by Aerendraca » Logged
Aerendraca
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« Reply #189 on: November 24, 2015, 03:00:14 PM »

2nd Adapter made up however, there was a problem. After drawing up a diagram of how the orientation of the connectors should be in order to reproduce a 1 to 1 cable, I seem to have taken my eye off the ball and wired the connector back to front - You can only imagine the level of cursing that I created upon dicovering this. This was especially frustrating as I made exactly the same mistake when I made the cable last year, which is why I was trying to be careful that I didn't do it again, ah well the best laid plans and all that.

1.) The mistake. Both connectors should be the same way up; with the connectors in this orientation pin 1 = pin 30, and pin 30 = pin 1, doh!

* WP_20151124_001.jpg (91.05 KB. 640x480 - viewed 237 times.)


2.) I decided the easiest way to rectify the problem was to pull all the pins out of the IDC connector, flip them 180deg, and reinsert them. The pins pulled:

* WP_20151124_002.jpg (85.91 KB. 640x480 - viewed 242 times.)


3.) Turned out pulling the pins and reinserting them was super easy. Here's the correctly oriented pair of adapters:

* WP_20151124_008.jpg (83.3 KB. 640x480 - viewed 236 times.)


4.) Continuity testing of the adapters attached by the IDE cable thew up an issue on one of the pins, pin 28 was not showing any continuity. I forgot about this. Pin 28 is the cable select 'Slave' pin on the grey IDC connector of the IDE cable, and as a result is not present. The image below shows the IDE cable with the pins of the grey connector exposed. Pin 28 is seen to be missing:

* WP_20151124_005.jpg (119.14 KB. 640x480 - viewed 238 times.)


I switched the grey connector for the black one (which has all pins present) and thought that was the end of it. It turns out that pin 34 of the blue connector is used by the cable select (CS) too and is absent from this connector. Since pin 34 was not used for the TFT control signals I went ahead and tested the newly made wire.

Test failed. There was apparently a short in the wire somewhere causing the controller board to go into hybernation to protect itself. This left me somewhat confused until I remembered that the IDE80 cable I was using is setup to have every other wire (of the 80 available wires) pulled to ground. It occured to me that those wires must be attached to one of the pins of the IDC connectors and this must be causing a short circuit.

It turns out that the above is true, however it's not just one pin; the IDC connector has the ground wires attached to pins 1, 19, 22, 24, 26, 30, and 40 - no wonder something was shorting in the DP2MBPR controller. See all of the above IDC issues in the below image (taken from http://www.allpinouts.org/index.php/Ultra_ATA_66/100_IDE):


* IDE80 Cable.JPG (56.97 KB. 551x310 - viewed 235 times.)



I have now abandoned using an IDE cable and have instead purchased a 15cm IDC to IDC 40 wire ribbon, this should iron out all of the above issues. As always I'll update when I've tested the new wire.

« Last Edit: November 24, 2015, 03:04:16 PM by Aerendraca » Logged
Aerendraca
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« Reply #190 on: December 02, 2015, 10:54:40 PM »

The IDC cable turned up today, yay! But one of the connectors was the wrong way around. Not too big a deal, I simply (and carefully) prised the IDC connector off one end, flipped it, cut the perforated part of the cable (from whence the connector came) and reattached the connector with the help of a vice - 5mins tops!

I lashed the cable up in EMI tape and plugged it in for a test:

* WP_20151202_006 (Small).jpg (95.55 KB. 640x480 - viewed 247 times.)


Powered it all up and with a full blown sigh of relief (and a little fist pump) the screen came to lilfe!!

* WP_20151202_002 (Small).jpg (98.27 KB. 640x480 - viewed 277 times.)



For completeness here's a couple more images of the cable:

* WP_20151202_003 (Small).jpg (101.54 KB. 640x480 - viewed 254 times.)

* WP_20151202_005 (Small).jpg (96.78 KB. 640x480 - viewed 259 times.)



I'm so pleased that this worked! This part of the build has been a gamble from the off and has taken numerous painstaking hours of fiddly work to reach this point, finally I have a working plan of how this thing will be powered!!!

Next up then is to integrate the IDC connector into the case, sort out the cooling for the LEDs and then put it all together for a test run. Maybe I'll get some time tomorrow to do a little more?? hmm.

Actually I suppose I really ought to look into whether powering the Arduino and peripherals via the spare pins of the IDC connector causes any problems to the display signal. Right, I've made a note of that; perhaps I can tackle this tomorrow.

« Last Edit: December 02, 2015, 11:02:06 PM by Aerendraca » Logged
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« Reply #191 on: December 04, 2015, 03:32:32 AM »

Very tight workmanship!
That's some cable porn if I've ever seen it!

And I'm gushing over those haptic-feedback OLED buttons already! You've home-brewed your own state-of-the-art interface (100% agree, buttons need to have all the sensory feedback the can have, and you implemented EVERYTHING (short of smell-o-button haha)). They'll look incredibly sharp in your wood veneer cabinet!

Just a fantastic build and well thought-out, and thank you for sharing your mistakes, they were very informative. That's some ace engineering - you found simple solutions to connector pins missing, and pins internally shorted together, and all that splicing/soldering.. I know your persistence will pay off, keep at it.

You're one great high-tech renaissance man!  Grin
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Aerendraca
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« Reply #192 on: December 04, 2015, 07:54:08 PM »

Thanks so much.

Well I haven't quite built the interface yet, there's bits of it working but I'm running into some memory problems at the moment. I will sort it eventually. Once it's all working it'll be great.

In my opinion it's all about the mistakes! I've been on the forums for a while now and I've taken on a big project, it seems to me that I should highlight that even the Admins make mistakes! Speaking of which.......

So I began tackling the task of integrating the IDC connector into the case, this didn't go quite as hoped. First mistake was that I miscalculated the curve of the wooden overlay when taking into consideration locating the IDC connector. I had hoped that being 8mm in height it would slip nicely into a recess cut into the plywood (which is itself 8mm thick), however the curve to the wood means that it will not embed descretely without poking out of the back quite a bit.

Aestically it's not the best to have the IDC connector sticking out but I have limited options so once again it is what it is. The main problem here is going to be creating a structure to support the IDC connector so that it can take the force of the cable being pulled out and inserted, and hiding the handywork so that it doesn't ruin the look of the veneer. This problem I am tackling and I'll post more once I've settled on how to do this.

The second mistake is much more embarressing. I rather stupidly mis-measured where the magnet was in the plywood and had a bit of an accident with the router which caused a spark show and bit of a mess to clear up; nothing major to sort out really, was just a bit annoying that I couldn't have shifted the outline along to the left by 1cm prior to routing, doh! Images follow:


The marked out position of where the routing was to take place:

* WP_20151203_003a.jpg (154.51 KB. 596x448 - viewed 241 times.)



The damage done by my mistake:

* WP_20151203_008a.jpg (129.16 KB. 816x612 - viewed 258 times.)



This error is not massively critical, it's annoying for sure but I can sort it out (I think). These things happen we just have to deal with them when they arrise.







« Last Edit: December 07, 2015, 11:36:56 AM by Aerendraca » Logged
Aerendraca
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« Reply #193 on: December 08, 2015, 10:58:00 PM »

OK so here's the plan for the IDC connector housing:

I veneered some extra pieces of plywood I had and cut them to size to fit around the IDC connector. The pieces are glued to the IDC connector with super glue and they are not going anywhere any time soon! The hole in the contour was widened slightly to accomodate the extra width of the connector and the housing was glued in place:

* WP_20151208_16_21_57_Rich_LI.jpg (94.07 KB. 956x536 - viewed 252 times.)



After the glue dried I carefully sanded away the excess and filled in any gaps with wood filler. The hole where I accidently cut into the magnet was blocked up with some extra veneered plywood I had laying about, and the backside (not shown in these pictures) was partially filled in :

* WP_20151208_18_06_58_Rich_LI.jpg (95.48 KB. 956x536 - viewed 249 times.)



I'm pretty happy with how this has turned out so far, especially in view of recent mistakes; I think with some finishing applied to the wood this will still look pretty sweet. One last image to show how the cable will look once plugged in:

* WP_20151208_18_08_58_Rich_LI.jpg (94.89 KB. 956x536 - viewed 251 times.)



The next couple of days will be tidying up some more and making adjustments to get things sitting correctly. More news when I have some.

« Last Edit: December 08, 2015, 10:59:38 PM by Aerendraca » Logged
Aerendraca
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« Reply #194 on: December 09, 2015, 03:03:58 PM »

Bit more tidying up and an overview of how it looks from the top.

Here you can see the hole filled in nicely and the IDC extension trimmed down to the curve of the contour:

* WP_20151209_10_22_54_Rich_LI.jpg (99.93 KB. 956x536 - viewed 254 times.)



View from above:

* WP_20151209_10_23_33_Rich_LI .jpg (123.29 KB. 956x536 - viewed 261 times.)



It's all coming together now. This afternoon I plan to tidy up the back ready for a covering with black self adhesive baize material (found on snooker tables - relatively thin). If I have time I will work some more on the cooling for the LEDs - still not sure how I'm going to do this.....

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