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Author Topic: Serenitiq 2 - Wacom Intuos 4 L + Rozsnyo DP2MBPR controller + LTN154YL01  (Read 85186 times)
thp777
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« Reply #30 on: June 15, 2014, 07:59:09 PM »

Just setup this as a programmable keypad last night.
Might be a good option as the mainboard and you can wire mechanical switches to each pad which is what ill be doing soon.
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Aerendraca
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« Reply #31 on: June 15, 2014, 08:54:22 PM »

That's a pretty tidy solution actually and had I seen this a couple of months ago I probably would have gone this route for sure, but I'm invested in creating a controller from scratch now - it's sadistically more fun!

I'm making a few steps in the right direction and have modifiers semi-working, just wish I could be fluent in c++ so I can just see the matrix without all the effort.
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thp777
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« Reply #32 on: June 15, 2014, 10:22:09 PM »

too bad youre not Neo. haha. ya that was my problems with getting a keyboard going was understanding the matrix coding fully
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Aerendraca
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« Reply #33 on: July 01, 2014, 08:10:05 PM »

I did it! I bit the bullet and placed an order for the Macbook pro retina screen.

Now I wait for delivery................................................ :
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Aerendraca
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« Reply #34 on: July 09, 2014, 12:24:20 PM »

It arrives!!!

The A1398 Macbook Pro Retina Panel has arrived this morning in all it's super thin glory, now I just have to wait five and a half hours til I finish work to have a play. Oh how the day drags when you're clock watching.

Here's the cellophaned LCD as a taster of things to come:

* A1398 LCD (small).jpg (353.35 KB. 800x600 - viewed 561 times.)


Can't wait to power this thing up!

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Aerendraca
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« Reply #35 on: July 09, 2014, 05:30:01 PM »

Doh! I forgot to buy a Displayport cable and power supply for the screen, what a complete dunce. Well I guess it's gonna be a few more days before I can test it out properly.  Sad
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Aerendraca
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« Reply #36 on: July 09, 2014, 10:07:42 PM »

No, wait, I dunce again!

Turns out I do have a power supply, in fact I have two!! A 12V 1A linear supply (on the left side of the picture), and a 12V 2A Switch mode power supply (on the right). I'm not going to tackle this tonight, but I've been bouncing ideas around with DaBotz regarding jitters, and I think that the cleaner output of a linear supply might help to reduce the jitters; now I can compare them!


* Adapters.jpg (370.16 KB. 816x612 - viewed 496 times.)


Well almost 'now' as I still don't have a DP cable yet.


Oh, and I forgot to mention that my latest idea is to power the Wacom from the same supply as the screen by hacking a USB cable and using a regulator. Based on something like this audiophile guy has done: http://2channelaudio.blogspot.co.uk/2013/01/audiophile-usb-yes-your-cable-makes.html

« Last Edit: July 09, 2014, 10:24:55 PM by Aerendraca » Logged
bumhee34
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« Reply #37 on: July 10, 2014, 02:16:23 AM »

Oh, and I forgot to mention that my latest idea is to power the Wacom from the same supply as the screen by hacking a USB cable and using a regulator. Based on something like this audiophile guy has done: http://2channelaudio.blogspot.co.uk/2013/01/audiophile-usb-yes-your-cable-makes.html

That would be cool. No power supply for the LCD.. but it must be challenging to make it fancy Smiley
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Aerendraca
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« Reply #38 on: July 10, 2014, 06:13:48 AM »

Sorry, I meant that the screen would be powered the normal way with a power brick, but that part of that power would be tapped to power the tablet as opposed to the computer powering it via USB. This way I can keep the grounds common (the same) and remove floating voltages. The Cintiq13hd I think does this via it's 3in1 cable.
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Aerendraca
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« Reply #39 on: July 11, 2014, 12:44:55 PM »

DP cable arrived this morning so now I think I have everything I need to test the panel for the first time. I will check this out when I get home and post some pics of the test when I get a chance.

On other news, I've been working on the USB power injector to drive the Wacom tablet since I'm convinced this will have a major impact on reducing jitter.

First things first I've ordered a pre-made injector cable from a company called MSDist (https://www.msdist.co.uk/product_MikroTik-5V-USB-Power-Injector.php) that looks like this:

* InjectorUSB.jpg (20.91 KB. 450x314 - viewed 406 times.)


This USB injector is not really designed for the purpose in which I intend to use it, it is really meant to be used to power something like an external hard drive when connecting it to a device that cannot provide the power to run it, and this means that for my case a slight modification needs to be made to the cable on the computer side of things. Most computers require that a load is present on the USB cable in order to begin sending and receiving data, a feature that I imagine this cable lacks due to it's intended function, so what I will be doing to rectify this is to chop off the Male connector and replace it with a modified connector (see images below):


* USBmod01.jpg (192.32 KB. 816x612 - viewed 485 times.)


The two pins in the middle are the data pins, the only ones that are required to transmit/receive data to and from the computer.


* USBmod02.jpg (210.71 KB. 816x612 - viewed 442 times.)


As you can see the dummy load I have used here is a 3mm dim red LED which works really well. For anyone interested it's rated at about 1.8V so I have also placed a 160Ohm resistor in series with it to limit the current (so the LED doesn't blow) and to drop the voltage from 5V to around 1.8V.

The actual injector cable hasn't arrived yet so I'm as far as I can get with this for now, fingers crossed it's worth it!


------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
edit:

I realised that with all my enthusiasm and eagerness to crack on with something, without fully thinking it through I created a cable (in the next post) which bypassed the need to mess with the purchased injector cable. A happy accident!

« Last Edit: July 11, 2014, 05:54:13 PM by Aerendraca » Logged
Aerendraca
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« Reply #40 on: July 11, 2014, 02:52:33 PM »

So I managed to dig out an old shielded USB cable from a junk box, lopped off the ends and attached the USB DIY connectors to make a new cable. By the way I got the connectors here: http://www.hobbytronics.co.uk/cables-connectors/usb-connectors - a quick note on this though, I had to drill out the wire outlet holes to 4mm to fit the cable I was using, a cable which I didn't think was thicker than standard.


* USBmod03.jpg (143.23 KB. 816x612 - viewed 556 times.)



* USBmod04.jpg (183.96 KB. 816x612 - viewed 483 times.)



* USBmod05.jpg (209.11 KB. 816x612 - viewed 512 times.)


The modification to the wacom power lead is still not quite complete as there's a matter of reducing the length of the USB cable at the Wacom end of things, and somehow splitting the power from the adapter; It occurs to me I forgot to think about splitting the power, ah well no big deal I'll just look through my box of junk again. 

« Last Edit: July 11, 2014, 05:55:21 PM by Aerendraca » Logged
Aerendraca
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« Reply #41 on: July 14, 2014, 09:25:57 AM »

I had a pretty busy one this weekend which meant that I didn't get half as much done with my build as I would have liked, but I do have some things to talk about so I'll begin.

First, the USB injector cable I purchased doesn't appear to be wired as expected; I plugged a 5v supply in, hooked up my custom cable and plugged in the Wacom, but no power was received by the tablet and Windows didn't see anything (which I suppose is to be expected with no power at the Wacom). I didn't have time to investigate this further but I'll do a bit of digging later this evening to see if I can work out what's happening.

Next up is the first power test of the Macbook pro retina panel. This did not go at all as I had hoped and two pretty big spanners forced there way into the metaphorical works. Firstly, I can't seem to get the panel to work at all with a switched mode power supply of 12V 2A, the backlight would flash on and then the screen switches off with a blue flashing status light, using a linear supply of 12V 1A gets the panel working great initially but then shuts off after about 30seconds and a flashing status light comes on again to report a problem; I can't remember if the status light was blue or red in this case but either way it's not what I was hoping for. I've contacted Daniel at Rosznyo (makers of the controller board) and he has provided me with a list of debug LED codes so that I can figure out where the problem resides, he also appears to be keen to get this problem resolved and has offered a repair or replacement, but this might not be necessary.

One suggestion that Daniel made was to turn the brightness of the backlight down to see if the screen will stay on for longer, he says that the blue flashing light relates to a problem with the backlight circuitry. So I tried this this morning and found that the screen would stay on for a longer period than before although I had to leave for work so I wasn't able to do a proper test of this. I also found that if I used the linear power supply to reduce the brightness of the backlight, then powered the controller down and switched power supplies to the switched mode one, the screen would illuminate and the desktop of my computer could be seen in all it's WXGA glory. Trouble is that a change to the brightness of the backlight caused the controller and screen to shutdown, and that pesky blue flashing LED reminds me that there's still an issue.
Anyway, I've reported all of this back to Daniel and I await a response, hopefully he will have some solution (firmware update maybe?) that might be able to resolve this.

The second spanner relates to jitter, it's horrific!! Now I imagine that this is to do with a complete lack of shielding, components just resting on top of the tablet and a complete lack of common grounding, but it's still way worse than I had hoped it would be. This could be just be related to the floating ground USB thing that I've been harping on about, but until I get my bespoke cable working correctly I can't really test this.

And a last final note which relates to the use of Liner vs Switched mode power supplies to reduce jitter, I see no significant improvement using the Liner supply over the Switched mode supply; Both supplies produce lots of jitter the way things are currently. If things change as I implement shielding and proper grounding then I'll update, but for now it doesn't appear to make a difference.

All in all a slightly disappointing start to a project that I had high hopes for, but I guess it's not over yet.

I almost forgot, here's a pic of the screen while it was working (sorry for the quality my phone camera didn't like the dim lighting):

* WP_20140711_008.jpg (238.55 KB. 816x612 - viewed 727 times.)


The picture quality and colours are superb, If I can get this working it will be amazing! Just need to hold on to that thought as I force a path through the build issues I'm facing.

« Last Edit: July 14, 2014, 10:26:14 AM by Aerendraca » Logged
Aerendraca
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« Reply #42 on: July 20, 2014, 10:32:43 PM »

Had another busy weekend this week so once again very little time to do anything, but I decided just now to spend a few minutes to doing a quick bit of soldering to test if injecting power into a USB line will play happily with a graphics tablet; since I did not want to kill my I4 on a test I decided that a suitable physical replacement would be my little Wacom Bamboo.

I decided against using the injector cable I purchased (damn waste of money) and hardwired the power supply, set to 5V, directly into the USB Female connector. Some pictures below:


* USB004.jpg (188.66 KB. 979x734 - viewed 474 times.)



* USB003.jpg (229.14 KB. 979x734 - viewed 363 times.)


I'm pleased to report that the Bamboo works flawlessly when the power from the computer USB socket is bypassed and an external power source is used. The next test is to see if I can power both the screen and the tablet from the same power supply; powering both devices is straight forward, I just need to build a small regulation circuit to drop the screen voltage of 12V down to 5V, a simple 7805 regulator should do the trick here.

I'm not going to be able to tackle this tomorrow as I'm always busy at the moment, but hopefully Tuesday will fair better so hopefully an update then.

On other news I have purchased a sheet of 0.5mm thick aluminium which will be used as a shield layer to surround the TFT panel. The idea here is that it will entirely cover the Intuos 4 surface (including the buttons, I don't use them), and have a window cut exactly to the active area of the tablet. This is tightly linked to the case design so progress here will come at the same time as the case chassis is built.
I hope this week to purchase some flexible (kerfed) MDF so that I can build the former template that laminate sheets of plywood can be squashed in to perfectly contour the sleek curve of the Wacom. Most of the time spent here will actually be on the template since I want the final chassis to have a very snug fit with the I4 making it easy to lift on and off. Top tip from a woodworking forum was to use Titebond Extend wood glue for the laminations since it's cure time is deliberately longer to allow for working time, so this is on my 'To Order' list as well.

« Last Edit: July 21, 2014, 06:29:21 AM by Aerendraca » Logged
Aerendraca
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« Reply #43 on: July 22, 2014, 09:53:43 PM »

Just a quick and slightly disappointing update here. I made the cable and powered the Wacom and the LCD from the same supply to see if the jitter could be reduced this way, it wasn't. There was no noticeable difference in the amount of jitter when the Wacom was powered via USB vs when powered using the LCD supply. At least this has been tested now though I guess.

On other news, I've designed the bending form for bending the plywood laminates and I hope to get the drawings off to a CNC machining company within the next couple of days. I have also picked up an awesome deal on some Eucalyptus veneer sheets that I eventually hope to finish the case in - If the pictures online are anything to go by this veneer is beautiful; I'll post some pics once I've received them.

 
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thp777
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« Reply #44 on: July 23, 2014, 08:23:39 AM »

Have you tryed sheilding the control board and leds yet. Does lowering brightness do anything to combat jitter?
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