Serenitiq 2 - Wacom Intuos 4 L + Rozsnyo DP2MBPR controller + LTN154YL01

[bumhee34]

Gorgeous.
It seems that cooling LED is quite difficult without metal materials..
Maybe Cintiq inner structures would be helpful. (I have never seen the inside of Cintiq)

[XDjackieXD]

Gorgeous.
It seems that cooling LED is quite difficult without metal materials..
Maybe Cintiq inner structures would be helpful. (I have never seen the inside of Cintiq)

If you have the FCC ID of the cintiq you want to see from the inside go here: https://fccid.io/search.php and search for it. there are great pictures of the cintiq companion hybrid for example ^.^

[Aerendraca]

Yep like XDjackieXD says you can look up the fcc testing information on any product that has an fcc number. There's a post on the forum about this somewhere - might even be the original Serenitiq thread from a couple of years back.

[Aerendraca]

I'm still thinking about the LED cooling. I will definitely be using aluminium to draw the heat away but I'm unable to settle on how to do; part of me wants to cut a big chunk out of the bottom and replace the wood with metal, but this means careful measurement and cutting, and I need to make sure I don't come too close to the active area of the digitizer. Another part of me thinks that I should work around what I've already got in place and fabricate something to fit, but this option also requires lots of measurement and cutting and possibly more time however the chances of ruining what I've achieved so far are less. I need some proper time to sit and think about this, time I don't have at the momement.

On other news, and following the success of the IDC cable extention, I've managed to finish the connection part to the eDP controller enclosure.


01 - The IDC connector was measured and a template made, this was stuck to the metal eDP controller enclosure to mark out where the hole was to be cut:



02 - Preliminary holes were drilled to allow access with a file to begin shaping the hole:



03 - After a bit of time and some gentle shaping the hole was complete and ready to sit the IDC connector:



04 - A nicely filed hole fits the connector perfectly:



05 - The IDC cable lays between the controller buttons and the DP connector (plenty of room to reach both without problem):



06 - A very pleasing view of the working connection between the eDP controller and the LTN154YL01:



I am extremely delighted with how this is shaping up, but I can't say that this was without a great deal of luck on my side with the placement of parts - I would like to say that the layout of the eDP controller box was well thought out and precise, but this would be a lie as due to rigid cabling there really wasn't too many placed the components could go, plus I hadn't established how I would actually connect the eDP board to the screen when I made the enclosure. Very lucky!

By the way I've now finally tested the screen on the tablet and confirm it works OK (given there's no shielding) however, there are big areas with random clicks and blank spaces, I do get squiggly lines instead of straight ones in some places, and the allignment is off - but then again it's not finished yet. I have filmed it and once I remember my youtube login I'll post a link.

Oh, and the LEDs (which are resting on plywood currently) get pretty hot, sustaining a temperature of around 55degrees Celcius (over about 10 minutes) after around 15minutes. I would still like to bring this down though.

[XDjackieXD]

this looks really nice *-*
55°C should be fine but could shorten the LED's lifespan...

[metapharsical]

I know I've seen a few builds where people put effort into cooling the LED or CCFL's.
I just don't think it's necessary.  My old Cintiq build didn't use any heatsink for the LED bar, and it lasted 5 years!
My LEDs probably failed because I was powering them with a cheap adjustable-voltage AC/DC adapter from RadioShack.
But then, I'm not an electrical engineer, so that's just my opinion.
Maybe the lifespan was shortened without adequate cooling... But hey, in 5 years you think you'll still be happy with a 1920x1080 LCD?
By then, I bet paper-thin-OLED-4K displays will be commonplace on the market 

After I started my current build, I happened to catch a great deal on a couple of these Dell S2204M monitors ($50 a piece, like-new condition, wow!), so now I have 2 more replacements if I break the one I've already stripped for the build. That's why I'm not even bothering with putting a protective glass on my tablet, much less cooling the LED's. But it still stands in your case, if the LED burn-out, you could find a replacement LED bar for a small price and throw that in, right?

I understand though, you want to make your project the greatest it can be from the start... and you're achieving smashing success so far, so keep it up!
Definitely a build that anyone can appreciate the intricate beauty of even as it just sits powered-off on a table !

So the LCD is causing many issues?
Shitty, but you'll get that interference out! You da man Aerendraca!
It will be more interesting now to see how you improve it, rather than just hearing that it simply worked   

[Aerendraca]

Somehow I missed your post metapharsical, apologies. 5years without cooling is quite impressive, I'm not sure the low profile leds that I have would last that long without cooling, however I am thinking of simplifying my cooling idea to a less over-engineered one as I believe they can be driven warm without worry. No further progress to report yet though.

[Aerendraca]

Well I've settled on how to cool the LEDs and I've gone ahead and began implimenting it. I have manuafactured an aluminium heatsink (of sorts) from a bar of aluminium 2mm thick and 25mm wide bought from Wickes hardware store some time. The manuafactured heatsink is 380mm long, 20mm at it's widest part, and 15mm at it's narrowest. Since the highest temps recorded without the heatsink were 55degC I think this should provide a sufficient means to bring this down to a more reasonable level.


Here you can see the made heatsink and a pencilled outline of where it will sit. The wider end parts will be sunk into the underside of the wooden contour to provide anchor points.


The heatsink is shown embedded in place as highlighted in pencil in the previous image.


Here you can see how the bar sits on the bottom side of the overlay.

I have ordered some thermally conductive tape, once again from China, so until this arrives there is only small bits of tidying and some electronics to do in the mean time. I'm still happy with progress so far, but I wish post form China was quicker.

[Aerendraca]

Just to say that I took a break from this project for a while due to other projects/commitments however, I have now found some time to continue this again so look out for further posts on Serenitiq2 progress soon.

[Aerendraca]

So let's bring things a bit more up to date. I have painted the glass cover, cut out the area for the oled screen to shine through, installed the capacitive touch film, installed the oled screens, and am beginning to embark on wiring it all up. With that spoiler, here's what I actually did:

I printed a full scale template of the areas to be cut out on paper and placed it under the glass as a guide.



Since there was a bit of a trick to getting clean edges (explained later), time was a bit limited and so the screen was painted in thirds using the paper guide as reference.


After the paint was no longer liquid but, critically, also not dry (also explained later), a self adhesive vinyl version of the template was placed over the top to act as a cutting guide and structural support during paint removal.


The areas where the OLED screen are to shine through were cut through the vinyl and gently peeled away from the glass.



Details:-
I tried various methods to get a perfect clean edge on glass including masking tapes and spray paints of numerous qualities and types with very little success. The method that eventually worked used Valspar (UK version of Platikote) brush on quick dry enamel paint. Additionally I also used a Silane glass primer to prep the glass for the paint, however Alcohol wipes would probably work just as well.

Steps:
1. paint on a thin later of paint and quickly dry it using a hot air gun on a medium to low heat (a hairdryer would probably work).
2. when the liquid shine has gone, paint on another layer at right angles to the original brush stroke, then dry again as above.
3. repeat this a few times until you have about 6 layers and no light can be seen through the glass.
4. cut out your shapes with a very sharp knife or scalpel.
5. leave overnight to dry off some more, and repeat the above for the next two thirds.

Because of the rapid heating of the enamel, the paint does not dry properly, becomes stretchy, and most importantly becomes very easy to cut. However, since the layers of paint are still quite thin, it is necessary to have something on the surface to aid the peeling from the glass as the paint can stretch and tear easily.

[Aerendraca]

Here you can see the clean lines that the above process achieved. You can also see that I worked from the outside in, dealing with the more complex cut out parts first.



With the screen painted I began work on applying the capacitive layer for the touch sensor.


The capacitive touch layer (Indium Tin Oxide coated Plastic) was glued to the glass using LOCA (Liquid Optically Clear Adhesive) and cured using UV light (I used the Sun); The conductive side of the capacitive layer is facing away from the glass.

On top of the ITO coated plastic, a layer of optically clear double sided film was applied. This stuff is sold on ebay for the diy repair of phones; by the way, don't even bother trying to use this stuff for that, without the proper tools it will just cause you a headache. The adhesive is so sticky and gooey that bubbles get trapped easily, and cleaning it off again is a nightmare. Even with the relatively small size areas that I use this stuff I managed to get a few bubbles trapped.

At one edge of the ITO film a layer I placed a strip of conductive adhesive copper tape. The copper tape provides a good area to attach wires later. The copper tape I have is branded by Adafruit and is sold on Amazon/ebay.

On top of the optically clear double sided film I placed a layer of linerally polarized film (see below), however I didn't take any photos of this so you'll just have to take my word for it.

Since I want to get the maximum brightness from the OLED screen without running them to their limit, I decided to remove the polarizing film from the front of each screen and use a thinner polarizer instead. Linearly polarizing film can be bought quite cheaply on ebay.



 

[Aerendraca]

I found this picture of the ITO coated film being glued to the glass. You can see the glue being drawn out by capillary action, I thought it might be useful to include it.

[Ertew]

Nice trick with oled polarizer.
I must warn You. UV filter (often integrated with polarizer) is must have for outdoor OLEDs. Without that filter, OLED will be degraded by the UV light.
Hope You not have too much UV light near tablet.

Back to topic. ATA cable is OK for LVDS (USB 1.1 should be fine too), but flat SCSI cable are better because it have twisted pairs. Just look at attachment. 68pin connectors identical to ATA connectors are available too.

[DaBotz]

Note on FCC ID - as far as I can tell, Wacom is identified by an "applicant id" HV4 -
as a matter of fact, all wacom authorization requests can be found here:

https://fccid.io/HV4

Then, the ID of the single product is often, simply, obtained by adding the Wacom  model ID, removing the hyphens.

Thus the Cintiq 21UX - model DTK2100 - has simply the  FCC ID HV4DTK2100

The tablet doesn't always follow the schema...

The Intuos 2 seems to be simply the HV4XD, for example.


 

[Aerendraca]

SCSI cables are a great idea for LVDS! I hadn't even considered them. I may change some of the display electronics at some stage so I will definitely keep them in mind.

Interesting note on the FCC IDs DaBotz, that should make tracking down more detailed info on the tablets a bit easier.

UV is a fair point Ertew, it is a concern when you remove the filters from the OLEDs, and if I was planning on using the tablet in direct sunshine I would probably not have removed them. There is some protection in the system though. The glass offers protection against UVB and will inherently attenuate all of it, although about 75% UVA can pass through the glass. I estimate about 20% of the UVA that does make it through will be further attenuated by the polarizing material, optical adhesive, optical tape, and ITO coated film before it gets to the OLED modules, so I think the levels of UV would need to be quite high and for a sustained period to cause catastrophic damage.

I've reached the latest milestone. The OLEDs are all wired and tested working, and the Touch pads are wired, calibrated and also tested working. Latest image showing the 9 OLED modules each with a unique image:




With initial testing now complete it is now time to move things onto the actual Sereitiq2 case. The wiring for this part I have already done though so it should just be a matter of spending some time removing the temporary grey wires and soldering the glass components to the new yellow wires.



Incidently there are 16 yellow wires that run along the bottom edge of the case just beneath where the glass rests and each one was a fiddly pain to line up. The total width available for all of these wires to run was only 8mm! It required tweezers, double sided tape, and tons of patience.