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Author Topic: Serenitiq 2 - Wacom Intuos 4 L + Rozsnyo DP2MBPR controller + LTN154YL01  (Read 39778 times)
bumhee34
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« Reply #195 on: December 11, 2015, 02:00:00 AM »

Gorgeous.
It seems that cooling LED is quite difficult without metal materials..
Maybe Cintiq inner structures would be helpful. (I have never seen the inside of Cintiq)
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XDjackieXD
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« Reply #196 on: December 12, 2015, 03:13:43 PM »

Gorgeous.
It seems that cooling LED is quite difficult without metal materials..
Maybe Cintiq inner structures would be helpful. (I have never seen the inside of Cintiq)

If you have the FCC ID of the cintiq you want to see from the inside go here: https://fccid.io/search.php and search for it. there are great pictures of the cintiq companion hybrid for example ^.^
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Aerendraca
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« Reply #197 on: December 12, 2015, 04:23:52 PM »

Yep like XDjackieXD says you can look up the fcc testing information on any product that has an fcc number. There's a post on the forum about this somewhere - might even be the original Serenitiq thread from a couple of years back.
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Aerendraca
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« Reply #198 on: December 15, 2015, 12:52:16 PM »

I'm still thinking about the LED cooling. I will definitely be using aluminium to draw the heat away but I'm unable to settle on how to do; part of me wants to cut a big chunk out of the bottom and replace the wood with metal, but this means careful measurement and cutting, and I need to make sure I don't come too close to the active area of the digitizer. Another part of me thinks that I should work around what I've already got in place and fabricate something to fit, but this option also requires lots of measurement and cutting and possibly more time however the chances of ruining what I've achieved so far are less. I need some proper time to sit and think about this, time I don't have at the momement.

On other news, and following the success of the IDC cable extention, I've managed to finish the connection part to the eDP controller enclosure.


01 - The IDC connector was measured and a template made, this was stuck to the metal eDP controller enclosure to mark out where the hole was to be cut:

* eDP_Housing_01.jpg (74.44 KB. 640x359 - viewed 226 times.)



02 - Preliminary holes were drilled to allow access with a file to begin shaping the hole:

* eDP_Housing_02.jpg (66.63 KB. 640x359 - viewed 233 times.)



03 - After a bit of time and some gentle shaping the hole was complete and ready to sit the IDC connector:

* eDP_Housing_03.jpg (64.38 KB. 640x359 - viewed 216 times.)



04 - A nicely filed hole fits the connector perfectly:

* eDP_Housing_04.jpg (73.36 KB. 640x359 - viewed 233 times.)



05 - The IDC cable lays between the controller buttons and the DP connector (plenty of room to reach both without problem):

* eDP_Housing_05.jpg (85.52 KB. 640x360 - viewed 230 times.)



06 - A very pleasing view of the working connection between the eDP controller and the LTN154YL01:

* eDP_Housing_06.jpg (61.7 KB. 640x359 - viewed 261 times.)



I am extremely delighted with how this is shaping up, but I can't say that this was without a great deal of luck on my side with the placement of parts - I would like to say that the layout of the eDP controller box was well thought out and precise, but this would be a lie as due to rigid cabling there really wasn't too many placed the components could go, plus I hadn't established how I would actually connect the eDP board to the screen when I made the enclosure. Very lucky!

By the way I've now finally tested the screen on the tablet and confirm it works OK (given there's no shielding) however, there are big areas with random clicks and blank spaces, I do get squiggly lines instead of straight ones in some places, and the allignment is off - but then again it's not finished yet. I have filmed it and once I remember my youtube login I'll post a link.

Oh, and the LEDs (which are resting on plywood currently) get pretty hot, sustaining a temperature of around 55degrees Celcius (over about 10 minutes) after around 15minutes. I would still like to bring this down though.

« Last Edit: December 15, 2015, 12:57:01 PM by Aerendraca » Logged
XDjackieXD
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« Reply #199 on: December 15, 2015, 08:18:33 PM »

this looks really nice *-*
55°C should be fine but could shorten the LED's lifespan...
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metapharsical
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« Reply #200 on: December 17, 2015, 08:45:05 PM »

I know I've seen a few builds where people put effort into cooling the LED or CCFL's.
I just don't think it's necessary.  My old Cintiq build didn't use any heatsink for the LED bar, and it lasted 5 years!
My LEDs probably failed because I was powering them with a cheap adjustable-voltage AC/DC adapter from RadioShack.
But then, I'm not an electrical engineer, so that's just my opinion.
Maybe the lifespan was shortened without adequate cooling... But hey, in 5 years you think you'll still be happy with a 1920x1080 LCD?
By then, I bet paper-thin-OLED-4K displays will be commonplace on the market  Grin

After I started my current build, I happened to catch a great deal on a couple of these Dell S2204M monitors ($50 a piece, like-new condition, wow!), so now I have 2 more replacements if I break the one I've already stripped for the build. That's why I'm not even bothering with putting a protective glass on my tablet, much less cooling the LED's. But it still stands in your case, if the LED burn-out, you could find a replacement LED bar for a small price and throw that in, right?

I understand though, you want to make your project the greatest it can be from the start... and you're achieving smashing success so far, so keep it up!
Definitely a build that anyone can appreciate the intricate beauty of even as it just sits powered-off on a table !

So the LCD is causing many issues?
Shitty, but you'll get that interference out! You da man Aerendraca!
It will be more interesting now to see how you improve it, rather than just hearing that it simply worked    Roll Eyes
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Aerendraca
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« Reply #201 on: January 04, 2016, 02:43:38 PM »

Somehow I missed your post metapharsical, apologies. 5years without cooling is quite impressive, I'm not sure the low profile leds that I have would last that long without cooling, however I am thinking of simplifying my cooling idea to a less over-engineered one as I believe they can be driven warm without worry. No further progress to report yet though.
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Aerendraca
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« Reply #202 on: January 13, 2016, 04:21:23 PM »

Well I've settled on how to cool the LEDs and I've gone ahead and began implimenting it. I have manuafactured an aluminium heatsink (of sorts) from a bar of aluminium 2mm thick and 25mm wide bought from Wickes hardware store some time. The manuafactured heatsink is 380mm long, 20mm at it's widest part, and 15mm at it's narrowest. Since the highest temps recorded without the heatsink were 55degC I think this should provide a sufficient means to bring this down to a more reasonable level.


* WP_20160111_16_33_57_Rich_LI (Custom).jpg (176.05 KB. 1052x592 - viewed 221 times.)

Here you can see the made heatsink and a pencilled outline of where it will sit. The wider end parts will be sunk into the underside of the wooden contour to provide anchor points.


* WP_20160113_12_51_34_Rich_LI (Custom).jpg (147.18 KB. 1059x595 - viewed 227 times.)

The heatsink is shown embedded in place as highlighted in pencil in the previous image.


* WP_20160113_12_51_20_Rich_LI (Custom).jpg (147.37 KB. 1059x595 - viewed 238 times.)

Here you can see how the bar sits on the bottom side of the overlay.

I have ordered some thermally conductive tape, once again from China, so until this arrives there is only small bits of tidying and some electronics to do in the mean time. I'm still happy with progress so far, but I wish post form China was quicker.


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