While I wait for the CCFL cable exenders, I built a sling to support the panel circuit board. I fixed on top of it the original board cover, and I hope that the resulting Faraday cage will shield some of the noise.
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I acquired a burnt PC power unit and salvaged the ferrite (and soft-iron) nuclei of two of tis transformers, that I plan to use them as common mode chokes on the Wacom USB cable and the VGA cable.
I'll look if I can find another ferrite choke for the fcc that goes from the controller to the LCD panel, and for the CCFL cables (I shall investigate more before trying this last trick, though - while the noise on the CabinetiQ was very much a product of common mode currents seeping in the USB and power cables, I have no idea if the same can be said for this new one.)
That said, even if the panel did prove unsuitable, and I'll have to switch to the aforementioned LG monitor, I still have to add hotkeys and wheels to the thing to get it usable for me.
So, I spent a couple of hours "modding" three mouses (in the end, I'll use three wheels: zoom, brush size and LazyNezumi mode).
By the way, as time goes by, I finally picked a "clean" way to mod the mouses.
It all start buying a small mouse (mini mouse) - in my case, from NGS.
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These small mouses use a rotary encoder - instead of the usual set of IR diodes that you can find in normal sized mouses - to obviate the lack of space due to the smaller wheel.
The encoder is less durable but a lot more handy than the diodes
Unfortunately, these encoders are originally with a horizontal axle (obviously), while I really need it to be vertical.
The first time I modded one, I made an unholy mess, with some 80 cm of cables connecting a pcb with the encoder and the three buttons to the original circuit.
Of course, these picked up EM "noise" wonderfully and fed it into the USB system (which is, I gather, not very RF-noise proof).
The second time, it was slightly better.
Third is a charm, as they say.
I decided that less is - in this case - decidedly more.
After having de-soldered the encoder, I bent its three input 90 degrees forward (really, I did it as I was de-soldering them: it's the cleanest way I have to do the job, warm up the thin and bent the damned things out - the pin holes are open on one side ).
Then I de-soldered also the left and right click buttons (one of them, I needed to de-solder anyway, to have a platform onto which to anchor the turned-vertical-encoder)
I soldered the "structural" pin of the encoder to a pretty small piece of PCB, that I glued at 90º from the mouse board (well, actually, it is glued to a small cubic piece of wood that is then glued to the PCB - I'm a wood guy and I didn't have any Lego around; if someone know how to bend PCBs, let me know) so that the encoder axle was vertical (not exactly, damn me). Once the glue was dried and the whole shtick was solid, I re-soldered the encoder's signal pins and verified that it works.
I also placed the removed buttons on two auxiliary PCBs connected with some cm of cables to the mouse board, and verified that they, also, work as they should.
Which is not so obvious: on this mouse, both buttons share a common line, and is the value of a resistance in series with the switch that let know the mouse chip which button is pushed.
As a result of this design (which, among other things, grants that the left click "overrule" the right one), a flimsy solder may transform the left click in a right one.
As knobs, once again I will go with polypropylene office chairs' wheels.
I can't find my preferred - 40mm x 20kg - , so I have to use the 50mm (30 kg) I had lying around (I have bought some to replace the ones under my chair that I accidentally destroyed a while ago - I always buy a spare sample).
Now, there is a moderately simple and very cheap trick to connect these to the encoder...
The hole in their back is slightly less than the girth of a classic aerial coaxial cable, so you can take one, stick it into the hole, cut it after 1-1.5 cm while leaving the copper core intact, and extract the copper core from the cable.
Gently nudge a little more the de-cored cable into the hole (with a hammer, but gently), and then you can carve away the external shielding, leaving a short, reasonably rigid and smooth nylon pivot, pretty rigidly connected to the wheel.
In the place where originally was the copper core (a bit too thin and smooth), I place (very gently, hammering it down, but gently) a tooth-picker that then I slim down a tiny bit hexagonally.
The tooth-picker is strong more than enough to carry the movement to the encoder but its wood is also tender enough that the plastic of the encoder can shape it when posed into the pivot siege, and I count on the nylon to handle side forces (though, the wheels of the Cabinetiq are running on tooth-pickers alone since I modded the first wheel), as I can place it into inside a small hollow screw (used to lodge 6mm screws - threaded for metal and easy removal - in wood).
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I have an idea of how placing them together, but I feel it is better that I see if I have to move the power source away, before start cutting plywood.
FOr the moment, the disposition could be something like this
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But, as I said, refinement may still come