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Author Topic: I have access to a laser cutter and an intuos 4 - let's rock.  (Read 8082 times)
Aerendraca
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« Reply #15 on: June 25, 2014, 08:36:41 AM »

You will need a power supply to run the controller and subsequently the LCD. NJYTouch sell these for their controllers (12V 4Amps), they cost about £12.
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wolvenmoon
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« Reply #16 on: July 23, 2014, 02:15:17 AM »

I've ordered everything, finally. I'm going to wait for my screen to get in so I can make some measurements before I cut the acrylic. This should be fun!
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Aerendraca
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« Reply #17 on: July 23, 2014, 09:58:12 AM »

Taking measurement and building the case are the fun bits, you're in for a treat.
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wolvenmoon
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« Reply #18 on: August 05, 2014, 12:29:27 AM »

Everything's in. I just have to modify the enclosure for a 16:9 screen instead of the 16:10 one!
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Aerendraca
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« Reply #19 on: August 05, 2014, 09:59:03 PM »

Nice, can't wait to see some pics.
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wolvenmoon
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« Reply #20 on: September 06, 2014, 08:44:38 AM »

Phew.

Okay. It's 2:30 AM. I started at 9 PM. It's been a mess. Everything that could go wrong that I didn't consciously prepare for - has.

The chi mei panel cannot be stripped. This is the biggest issue of the night. Attemptign to strip the metal casing off of it will reveal that its backlight is tied into the casing. I didn't expect to pull it open. The screen's got an acid-trip vibe to it now that I can appreciate but it is now unusable for normal purposes. It still powers on and displays a mostly coherent image barring a really stupidly obnoxious '48' that is stamped into the bottom corner in dead pixels. I'll try to get a picture of the damage.

NJYTouch's equipment all seemed to work beautifully.

I reversed a part early on in my tabletmod build. This part requires a metric crapton of screws into it. In fact, every part of the tabletmod build required an inordinate amount of screws.

Building with acrylic sucks. It picks up dirt and fingerprints readily and it's very quick to crack. I had two parts break during the build. One was salvageable with superglue - which cemented in my part reversal. The other was not.

The button box was not the right size for my buttons. This isn't a huge deal, but making the button box hackable would be a very good thing. If I didn't have free access to a laser cutter and cheap access to acrylic 20 minutes down the road, I'd be angry. At the end of the build the darn thing wouldn't close because of the part reversal. It is not ambidextrous and it has little right not to be.

The VESA mount scares me considering that part of the build is held on with zip ties.

Modifying it to take a 16:9 aspect ratio was a pain in the butt.



The monitor worked and I did get the build 'complete' enough to hold it together and try it out. With a layer of insulation grounded to the controller board, the jitter was barely noticeable on the bottom half (divided horizontally) of the tablet's active area. The top area set off a fireworks display of menus and clicking when I moused over it. However, at the time the tablet did NOT share a common ground with the monitor and the aluminum foil I was using as insulation.


So. I need to find a different monitor. Or do I? Is the backlight-being-visible thing the instant game over my intuition tells me it was or is it something I was supposed to see?

Is there any way to avoid Chi Mei that isn't going to cost me a ridiculous amount of money?
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