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Author Topic: Exotiq Redux 21.5" IPS + Intuos3  (Read 5779 times)
metapharsical
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« Reply #15 on: July 15, 2015, 03:48:46 AM »

* Attention:  I edit my posts in this build log  *
**

In an effort to avoid a couple pitfalls of reporting a good DIY build log.
  • I don't want to leave inaccurate info up. I may change stuff.
  • I don't want people to have to dig thru 10 pages to find useful info. I want to make my posts densely informative and on point. All the good stuff should be on the first page or two.

Lemme hear what you think! I appreciate all of the contributions from members here on the forum. I really love reading your thought processes and all the support encourages me to do my best!

*Beware my revisions will make a casual reader assume I'm reading minds as I might answer a question by adding info to a previous post.

*Sorry Aerendraca  Grin
« Last Edit: November 28, 2015, 01:39:41 AM by metapharsical » Logged
Aerendraca
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« Reply #16 on: July 15, 2015, 06:48:41 PM »

 Wink don't fret, I think it's a grand idea; I went back over the original Serenitiq post and did the same thing.
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metapharsical
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« Reply #17 on: November 14, 2015, 04:36:55 AM »

(Fixed Missing Pictures)

A little more progress, also check my last post on page 1...    I posted new pictures from the shop Smiley
Here it was, oh about 2 months ago, with the acrylic cut and joined.

* backside bare mockup.jpg (206.15 KB. 1920x1337 - viewed 268 times.)

I now finished this half of the case, which included:
  • mating Carbon Fiber rods together to form the inner frame
  • gluing the carbon fiber frame to the wacom mu-metal sheet
  • cutting plastic corner/edge blocks
  • gluing the plastic blocks to the inner C.F. frame and acrylic outer case simultaneously.

first I had to cut the horizontal C.F. frame rods to fit:
...using some custom jigs to set the length of the cut -and to support the rod during cutting:

* CF jig.jpg (332.76 KB. 1920x1306 - viewed 244 times.)


Then, a couple grainy pictures show the rear scavenged-dell-cover thrown-in.
top: outer view
bottom: inner (empty)

* empty shell.jpg (212.54 KB. 800x1080 - viewed 270 times.)


Done with the Carbon Fiber, next I inserted the shield sheet (from the Intuos) under the frame between the CF and Acrylic and just glued the CF & steel shield together(2-part epoxy)
Then it was time to join the C.F. frame to the acrylic case via plastic blocks
(I made these blocks to mate the curve of the C.F. rods and the bow-edge of the acrylic)

* Anchor skin & frame.jpg (209.83 KB. 1920x910 - viewed 239 times.)

I could have used ~6 different glues which could work. I decided to use the acrylic 2-part Epoxy and dye it black with plain-old fabric dye just to see if it would look interesting enough to leave visible from the outside...
To be honest, results are not fantastic...with only ~5 minutes before epoxy begins to set, my 4 small batches of glue ended up with hastily varied amounts of powdered dye and thickness. So I've dark and light colored joints  Sad


* corner epoxy.jpg (186.73 KB. 1920x1134 - viewed 233 times.)


Along the way, I learned a brutal lesson about the brittleness of acrylic.    Cry
Just before I put the blocks into the case I got the bright idea to blow dust out of the crevices with a Can-of-compressed-air (y'know the kind you get at the computer store for cleaning your keyboard)
But I was careless and I tipped the can and blasted the edge in a big sweeping motion. What came-out-of-the-Can-was-not-air, as you might have already guessed... That liquid-cold propellant chemical spat out, hitting the acrylic and in an instant a terrible sound, like squeaky-ice shattering, hit my eardrums...  
Of course... the extreme temperature difference (on the inside surface) caused the material to stress and crack. Very very stupid of me.

* cracked acrylic.jpg (208.14 KB. 2560x1215 - viewed 241 times.)

Fuck. It almost looked like I botched the whole project. The cracks are 90% through the material depth and almost top to bottom like tiger stripes across inch's/cm's of a substantial part -the case edge- where it could be stressed in normal use, causing it to crack completely apart. I will need to re-enforce this area now, and the hope that gluing some blocks behind it will prevent total failure.


So, it is decided. I will paint the exterior in whatever spray-paint will have good adhesion and wear characteristics (Krylon Fusion, or similar 'plastic bonding' paint), in a very dark grey color.

My penultimate post will be soon. The front half of the case has some challenging features, but it should be much less cutting and fabricating than I've had to do so far Cheesy

« Last Edit: November 28, 2015, 01:46:18 AM by metapharsical » Logged
Drewid
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« Reply #18 on: November 19, 2015, 02:22:52 PM »

OK -so I had to delete the attachments to get the thread working again. There were a couple of possible issues, there were two with the same name (I don't think this is the problem as the names get hashed in the database, but perhaps the attachmant script doesn't like it), the big one was missing it's thumbnail, which might perhaps have been a busy server thing.   

Can you do the attachments again Meta? It might be work making the 4k-wide one a bit smaller just in case that was causing it to choke.

Right - As you were Smiley
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metapharsical
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« Reply #19 on: November 28, 2015, 03:16:14 AM »

Here's the plan for the final big piece : The Acrylic Front Panel

* Front assembly.JPG (78.59 KB. 1176x708 - viewed 252 times.)

The Front Panel has to hold the LED/LCD from falling out(in combination with the perforated copper 3-sided frame), provide fastening points for the Wacom antennae board, and fasten multiple points to the back 1/2 of the case.
I will not be mounting the 2 Intuos Hotkey assemblies to the front (if I decide to even use them at all, they will be on a satellite remote).
Pretty simple right...?

Here's where it gets tricky...
I've dismantled the Dell s2204 monitor to the ABSOLUTE minimum components. Removing all the metal housings and plastic frames until I had only the Backlight diffuser sheets, the LED bar, and the Liquid Crystal panel (which has some plastic tabs I trimmed shorter).

Removing the final plastic frame (which mainly holds the BLU and LED bar in alignment for best shinyness) reduced the total thickness from ~8.5mm-9mm  to  ~5.5mm-6mm!

* PanelFrameTabs.jpg (216.61 KB. 1920x1589 - viewed 265 times.)


But, of course I have make sure the LEDs shine into the backlight diffuser sheets properly - given the panel has dropped over 2mm, the LED's would be shining into the edge of the panel.  Embarrassed
Low-and-behold, along the 4.5mm wide LED strip, the placement of the LED components is off-center by 1.5mm!
If I simply flip the LED bar over-  VoilĂ  ! the LEDs line up with the Diffuser!  (As far as I can tell, and I'm very precise in my measurements)  Grin
Where before, the LED bar had an extra 1.5 mm of board standing out from under the screen, flip it and that 1.5mm sits in the recess where the plastic frame was!

* whats left 2do.JPG (121.97 KB. 1874x460 - viewed 243 times.)


I'm designing the Acrylic Panel with a few stepped surfaces along the edge to hold LED bar. This will accommodate the missing components of the LCD frame, as well as protect the very fragile FFC's going from the panel to the Tcon circuit board.

* Screen Capture 1.jpg (170.2 KB. 1920x1080 - viewed 235 times.)

Then, I'm deliberating how to cover those gaps along that edge:

* mind the gap.JPG (72.53 KB. 1848x936 - viewed 244 times.)

...Probably a thin strip of copper glued down to the acrylic face and the edge of the LCD panel.

* final face 1.jpg (86.31 KB. 1186x690 - viewed 243 times.)


Oh, and how about a 3D animated render of the Exotiq assembled piece-by-piece: https://youtu.be/Bd1u_9M8I4E

What's holding me up is the fact that the engineer inside me won't compromise on precision. I want to mill the steps in the acrylic to a tolerance of +/- 0.05mm (.002"). The machines at the DIY shop are too sloppy. This only leaves me 2 choices: Go to the nearby tech college, and have them give it a go on their if-y CNC mills, or find an open machine and some time to do it at my work on the very high-end CNC mills. (the later is kind-of a No-Go in my recent line of work as a micro-surgical-instrument-machinist... not many of our machines have enough X/Y table space... we make tiny parts here!)

So I'm waiting to hear back from the school / hoping a bigger machine opens up at work.

In the meantime there's other little parts to make, so I'll add some updates to this post as I get to those.

« Last Edit: December 03, 2015, 12:21:52 AM by metapharsical » Logged
Aerendraca
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« Reply #20 on: November 28, 2015, 09:31:43 AM »

Very nice design and great way of trimming down the thickness. This should be a really great build, I'm looking forward to seeing how this turns out.

In image 4 you show the ffcs from the tft going from the top through some material (acrylic?), how have you designed it so that this is possible?
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metapharsical
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« Reply #21 on: December 02, 2015, 11:08:48 AM »

Thank you!
  It's been a long journey once again: teaching myself new CAD skills and shaping new kinds of materials on new machines - hit some tough pot-holes on the way!
It's always been my day job to make other people's designs...Hacks like mine, and everybody else's contributions, are what keep my passion alive for building . . . Well,when time permits,I still have my day job to do. . .
It's pretty quiet here on the forum, but maybe you do such a great job of explaining things that, there's no questions left   Cheesy

To answer your question... I know, what's probably M.C.Escher-ing your perception of image4 is that the material on the acrylic face 3Dmodel is transparent except on it's flat-bottom surface, this probably looks weird, hard to tell where the top/outside surface is. In the next picture, (ignore the blue selection-glow) you see the face of the LCD screen area in light blue, and the Acrylic face in darker blue opaque. Compare it to the translucent image4, you see all the steps are removed from underneath the acrylic's outer surface.
But by removing 29mm(1.125") wide ramp sections underneath, that gets me no interference against the cables. They are allowed to slack off the LCD edge to the t-con board that sits below the panel. Those cut-outs will be accomplished cutting on the inside face with a CNC mill with a cutting bit that is ball-shaped on the tip. (So also, technically, those ramps will look slightly different, they won't have super sharp inside corners, since I can't cut a square inside corner with a ball.

...Yes, there is a portion of the frame which I'm adding that, if I choose to be lazy, will overlap the FFCs. I'm gonna glue something in that will provide THE mounting surface for the back of the LED bar. I could simply lay a strip of plastic 3*3mm * the length of the LED bar, glue it to the inside face, mount the LED bar, and call it done. Though, This WOULD LOCK THE PANEL INTO THE FACE, requiring surgical removal  Sad
Or, I can make the LED-bar-backer out of separate pieces that do not overlap the cables, problem solved. But, not all my models show this, it may show a long square behind the LEDs, or nothing at all  Embarrassed

(P.S. check out the YT link - I designed a kick-ass animated exploded view   Grin ) https://youtu.be/Bd1u_9M8I4E
« Last Edit: December 03, 2015, 02:17:12 AM by metapharsical » Logged
Drewid
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« Reply #22 on: December 02, 2015, 03:07:24 PM »

Quote
OK, I'm open to suggestions for a matte 'screen protector' solution

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/171881430632?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

21.5Inch Resistive Touch Screen Panel 490x285mm 4Wire USB kit for 21.5" monitor   Grin
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XDjackieXD
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« Reply #23 on: December 02, 2015, 07:04:26 PM »

Quote
OK, I'm open to suggestions for a matte 'screen protector' solution

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/171881430632?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

21.5Inch Resistive Touch Screen Panel 490x285mm 4Wire USB kit for 21.5" monitor   Grin
I think the soft "squishy" surface of a resistive touch panel would be pretty awkward to draw on...
I used a matte screen protector for a cintiq with a scanner glass plate (but you should find something thinner. the 3mm are to thick)
« Last Edit: December 02, 2015, 07:06:26 PM by XDjackieXD » Logged
Aerendraca
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« Reply #24 on: December 02, 2015, 10:44:10 PM »

Ahh I see now how you plan to accomplish this, nice.

Not sure about having answered all the questions there are to answer, there must be more out there.... surely? Perhaps people have re-embraced the traditional arts and shelved technology (*smirks*), or perhaps there are lots of builders out there that just loom over the forums periodically but are too shy to step in - To those people, we're nice, promise! Smiley
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metapharsical
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« Reply #25 on: December 02, 2015, 11:49:21 PM »

 An animated-exploded-view of my tablet design  Grin  Cool

Well, I do hope art marches outside the mainstream, though I'm a PC gadget/human-machine-interface geek
 and I can't get enough of seeing the Drew-spired DIY tablet hack robustly replicated, it just needs that last piece of the interference issue solved once and for all Roll Eyes

hehe, speaking of...Drew thanks for the very functional 'screen cover' link  Grin
(spoiler: I have this   Dell S2240T I've been tempted to turn into a 22" touch tablet with the other Intous3 12x19 I have sitting here boxed up, mwhahaha, the plans are in the making! Can't wait to see what the verdict is when I tear that panel apart to test)
I've been looking into screen protectors.
Photodon Sample Packs . I did a Build-Your-Own.
I ordered a $5 sample of screen films to try out 5 different types of screen protector coatings:
  • MXA - super clear
  • MXC - clear
  • MXH - anti-glare
  • 6HS - hardened
  • MXO -oleophobic
I can say the 2mm anti-glare glass I used in the old EXOTIQ design left some qualities to be desired...Personally, I prefer some drag like graphite on paper.  And some of these film covers have a very slippery/fast feel, particularly the 6HS (hardened coating), it feels like drawing on glass. Though, they're all a little squishy when compared to the hard glass surface of the bare Dell panel, which is good.
I found the most pleasing one to be the MXO coated film, which was probably one of the thickest and slowest feeling,
 and happens to have the added advantage of being an Oleophobic design- it resists finger oils and smudges ! Perfeecto!

On a side note: I remember reading on a cintiq forum that Wacom recommends only using plastic nibs on your cintiq. Particularly, the felt nibs can gather hard little dust chunks that will gouge your screen. It's less likely with the slippery plastic nibs, but don't forget to keep your tips clean none-the-less. So yeah, it's definitely a trade off between the feel of friction and the longevity of your screen surface... If you like a super slick drawing surface, you're in luck.
« Last Edit: December 03, 2015, 09:31:35 PM by metapharsical » Logged
metapharsical
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« Reply #26 on: December 03, 2015, 09:38:34 PM »

Hey, Aerendraca and Bumhee34, why didn't you tell me a guy in Korea did a build log with the same LCD panel?!  Tongue And he took way better pictures!  Cheesy
It looks like he shielded the t-con board and eliminated more jitters!
Ha, too bad I can't read Korean. You guys pretty much summed the build log up in this thread . But still, I'm curious about a few things I saw. Website translators are laughably bad... my Corean friend will help me translate his build log I hope.

« Last Edit: December 03, 2015, 10:41:58 PM by metapharsical » Logged
Aerendraca
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« Reply #27 on: December 16, 2015, 03:00:07 PM »

Oh, I just saw this post, apologies.

Ahh yes I remember that build, sorry I completely forgot about it. Mind you, that said, I can't read Korean either so I've no idea on the details. Did your friend translate it for you? Any luck with sorting the jitters?
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bernard
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« Reply #28 on: February 25, 2016, 05:33:16 PM »

Quote
Polyphenylsulfone .... we happened to have some throw-away chunks of it at the company I work for!

Oh wait! Maybe I too have some of that stuff in my basement!  hum... nope.  Well wait, maybe in my spare wood chunks basket? ...Nope, no Polyphenylsulfone chunks in there... Grin

Man, you are equipped far beyond what I actually knew existed.
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