test1
October 17, 2017, 11:11:15 PM *
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
News: You may have to login twice the first time,  but we don't know why - Erm I mean it's a security thing yeah that's it - security.
 
   Home   Help Search Login Register  
Pages: 1 2 3 [4] 5
  Print  
Author Topic: Finally Ready; A Newbie Build for a Newbie Maker - Syntic  (Read 9979 times)
comfychair
Jr. Member
**
Posts: 41


View Profile
« Reply #45 on: December 03, 2015, 02:19:16 AM »

and this tape, did I find the correct item?

http://www.adafruit.com/products/1656?gclid=Cj0KEQiAyvqyBRChq_iG38PgvLgBEiQAJbasdw3NPk5K0Y_Hji8uUuqDlrYF4hxsHW-uNK7rqZH-3vIaAtWG8P8HAQ
Logged
Aerendraca
Administrator
Hero Member
*****
Posts: 1068


View Profile
« Reply #46 on: December 03, 2015, 07:30:09 AM »

Yes that's the tape I was talking about, and I'm not sure about Lead (Pb) tape being any good for shielding, there just isn't much information about it for this sort of application.
« Last Edit: December 03, 2015, 02:16:27 PM by Aerendraca » Logged
comfychair
Jr. Member
**
Posts: 41


View Profile
« Reply #47 on: December 04, 2015, 11:51:35 PM »

I ordered a FFC and that tape you recommended, I'll update soon.

Im also gonna try that lead tape and report back
Logged
comfychair
Jr. Member
**
Posts: 41


View Profile
« Reply #48 on: December 05, 2015, 04:29:33 AM »

While I'm waiting for these parts to come in, has anyone tried this?

https://www.etsy.com/listing/204719195/argen-mesh-silver-mesh-fabric-for?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=shopping_us_supplies-fabric-low-other&utm_custom1=9fdbce03-d9d3-4ef0-9e2b-3e83a92688a8&gclid=CjwKEAiA7f-yBRDAgdv4jZ-78TwSJAA_WdMaSrJYba2q_mDnVNopFQUSQ-hK0QhNGDa_K2sOL1ePJxoCOaXw_wcB
Logged
Aerendraca
Administrator
Hero Member
*****
Posts: 1068


View Profile
« Reply #49 on: December 07, 2015, 10:20:09 AM »

Not tried any mesh materials myself although I'm pretty sure that they are mostly used for blocking EMI at frequencies from 10MHz upwards, although with that said, I wonder if you could use a mesh that attenuates really really poorly at frequencies under 10MHZ but exceptionally above, it might act as a filter??

Here's what I'm thinking, you have one large piece that covers the entire digitizer (grounded and isulated electrically), and sandwich it between the TFT and the digitizer. The digitizer works at ~660kHz so well under the 10MHz, but (if I remember correctly) the TFT is causing noise at frequencies way above 10MHz so should be largely attenuated by the mesh prior to reaching the digitizer. The only thing that this couldn't hope to prevent is noise picked up by the pen.

Since the mesh would be placed close to the digitizer and not tuned to attenuate in the kHz range the impact upon the signal should be minimal. I might be prepared to give this a go at some point and see what happens.
Logged
Aerendraca
Administrator
Hero Member
*****
Posts: 1068


View Profile
« Reply #50 on: December 07, 2015, 05:54:40 PM »

Wierdly enough one of the research groups at my work borrowed some equipment from me today to test out the effects of fine mesh at microwave frequencies, I've asked them if I can borrow a small piece to test out my theory, this should be possible in the next few days apparently. I'll let you know how it goes.

Logged
comfychair
Jr. Member
**
Posts: 41


View Profile
« Reply #51 on: December 08, 2015, 12:09:49 AM »

Thats great to hear Grin

Cant wait for the results
Logged
comfychair
Jr. Member
**
Posts: 41


View Profile
« Reply #52 on: December 18, 2015, 11:54:14 PM »

I got the anisotropic tape in.

So if I understand this correctly, I can put this on the FFC without having to sand or expose the wires inside.

Also is there some direction I need to apply the tape?
Logged
Jksukino
Jr. Member
**
Posts: 43


View Profile
« Reply #53 on: February 19, 2016, 01:55:49 PM »

Did you solder the ground wire on it? I used copper tape without succes other than shielding.
Logged
comfychair
Jr. Member
**
Posts: 41


View Profile
« Reply #54 on: February 25, 2016, 12:52:19 AM »

I did solder the ground wire to it, JK - The TCON board more specifically

I read up on the aniscopic tape and no dice.

I think I have to go back to the drawing board, looking for suggestions...
Logged
Aerendraca
Administrator
Hero Member
*****
Posts: 1068


View Profile
« Reply #55 on: February 25, 2016, 02:57:19 PM »

The anisotropic tape didn't work? Perhaps the pitch of the FFC is right on the edge of it's limitation which, from memory, is 0.4mm; at this kind of pitch the particles in the tape can short the wires and a microscope is really needed to allign things.

Ah wait I've just reviewed you previous posts, I now see that you broke the FFC off of the LED strip - a point I appear to have missed before, apologies. I don't think the tape would help you with this as there's not much area on the LED strip to stick it to. My suggestion here is to buy a smashed screen off ebay and remove the backlight from that, it'll be cheaper than buying a new screen.

Incidently, what's the reason for wanting to extend the FFC?

Logged
comfychair
Jr. Member
**
Posts: 41


View Profile
« Reply #56 on: March 02, 2016, 02:10:54 AM »


I fear you are right, I'll try harder to align them

Quote
I don't think the tape would help you with this as there's not much area on the LED strip to stick it to.

I thought that too, so i scrapped and sanded the ffc to expose the copper substrate to get a connection. I'll send pictures

Quote
My suggestion here is to buy a smashed screen off ebay and remove the backlight from that

I did exactly that, in fact I am using the broken ffc cable and trying to splice it unto the ffc cable of the new backlight array. Ill have more later on that.

Quote
Incidently, what's the reason for wanting to extend the FFC?

I have a hunch that the TCON board is causing a lot of interference. I want to shield it off as much as possible, (I am even trying lead) but the ffc wire isnt long enough for me to wrap the lead around it. If I can get some distance between the panel and TCON, I can see if that is really the issue.
Logged
comfychair
Jr. Member
**
Posts: 41


View Profile
« Reply #57 on: March 08, 2016, 12:48:47 AM »

I may see what I did wrong


* cable splice.jpg (80.58 KB. 1000x563 - viewed 161 times.)


The cable labeled "A" is coming out of the display. The cable "B" is the cable I broke off the old display. I am using the aniscopic tape to combine the two, but I think I am doing it wrong.

I need to cut the end off of cable "A", expose the copper and then attach it to cable "B" don't I?

Logged
Aerendraca
Administrator
Hero Member
*****
Posts: 1068


View Profile
« Reply #58 on: March 09, 2016, 02:27:57 PM »

I think you need to scrape back to the copper on cable 'B' at the end that would normally connect to the glass; I think you probably don't have enough copper exposed to make a good contact currently. As far as I can tell from the images though, it appears that each of the cables has the copper exposed on opposite sides at each end, this is good as it means that your cable extension will be consistant throughout as long as the anisotropic tape can work at this fine pad separation.
Logged
sinusoid
New Poster
*
Posts: 15


View Profile
« Reply #59 on: March 10, 2016, 01:48:46 PM »

@comfychair, those cables seem to be kapton - if they are, they can withstand soldering temperatures.
You can sand down to the copper, get a tiny little amount of solder on both sides, press them together and hotair, or try soldering through kapton.
Logged
Pages: 1 2 3 [4] 5
  Print  
 
Jump to:  


Powered by MySQL Powered by PHP Powered by SMF 1.1.21 | SMF © 2015, Simple Machines Valid XHTML 1.0! Valid CSS!